Coastal Aggie

Any chance someone remembers who did this or what discussion it was under? Been digging around the forum and I'm not finding anything. Since night time Temps here have cooled back down again I decided to experiment a little. Emptying out that forward cabinet and leaving the door and little access hatch to the area above the sensor open so that the temp can equalize with the inside air. I've now been able to set the thermostat to exactly the temperature I want and it's been maintaining it perfectly. This seems to prove my idea that the sensor needs to be moved away from the wall.

My experience with my 23 LE1 over this winter in Colorado is that it's good unwinterized until single digit Temps. Having trouble with the truma varioheat maintaining stable temperatures when it's that cold and I strongly believe that has to do with the location of the temp sensor being too close to the exterior wall. Once it dropped below 10 degrees I'd get just the hot water side of the bathroom faucet freezing up and then just a few degrees lower the cold side would freeze as well but only the bathroom sink, I never had the kitchen sink freeze and while i never bothered to winterizethe outdoor shower it never ruptured and there's no leaks now so i dont think it ever froze. Now Once the tank got down to about 20% I did lose suction I do not know if that finally froze or if the TLI was just off and it was actually empty, thankfully that was only the day before I left for home so I just made do with my emergency case of bottled water j keep in the truck. Unfortunately I didn't think about investigating that further until I was already back in San antonio and hooked up to my house services. I did have I think 2 days where those bathroom lines froze while it was around 15 but that was during storms with pretty severe wind and they were thawed by the next day.

I'll throw another vote in for mopeka sensors. No issues connecting to them. Once the tank gets nearly all the way empty the reading can start to get a bit erratic but if you're checking it once a day or so you can anticipate that so its not that big a deal. One of my first purchases for my first trailer when I found out the hard way how miserable it can be when you run out of propane on a cold night in alaska. When I ordered my second trailer I made sure I had a pair of then before I even took delivery.

I'd like to revive this old thread to ask if anyone has had further experience with trying skirts. This winter I spent 30 days in fairplay colorado starting just after the new year. Within that 30 days there were 3 non consecutive weeks that did not rise above 32* during the day and those weeks I'd say averaged about 10 degrees at night with some down to only 2* or 3* Despite some issues with maintaining stable temperatures inside due to what I suspect to be a poorly placed temp sensor the inside Temps never got below about 50* and I tried to keep it around 70 inside according to the temp reading from my weather station I have stuck to the aft wall just above the chrome seam. All that being said the trailer performed extremely well. I was on shore power the whole time but no city water or sewage since the park was winterized. I filled my tanks before i headed there and I did not bother to winterize because I really wanted to push its limits to see how it would do. Below about 40 ish the walls do start getting pretty cold I was burning through my 40lbs of propane roughly every 5 days though I think that would be dramatically improved if you remember to turn the electric heater on the water heater, I forgot about that feature so I had left the propane heating on for it the whole time. The only time I had any pipe freezing issues was when it was single digits at night, as long as it got above roughly 15-20* during the day it would thaw back out and that was the water lines to the bathroom sink. The hot water line was usually the first to freeze but very little extra drop I'm temp would get both lines. No lines ever burst so I suspect it was only within a section of the pex itself which is plenty flexible to withstand some light freezing. Which brings me to the question of a skirt. I have strong reason to believe that the only place it could have frozen was somewhere on bottom of the trailer between the bathroom and kitchen sink, the heater kept the bathroom itself hot enough that I seriously doubt it froze under the bathroom sink and since the kitchen sink never froze up it obviouslyhad to be further down than that. And there were 2 nights that were particularly windy when those same pipes froze when it was somewhere around 15 degrees much warmer than they were usually freezing at. With my eventually goal of making it through an alaskan winter in this trailer I definitely believe that a skirt would go a long way to keeping the wind out from under the trailer and keeping it livable in single digit Temps and below. The current idea I have been mulling over is to use billboard material to make a skirt that will snap into buttons around the base of the hull and be secured to the ground with tent stakes. This would be heavy duty enough to keep out the wind but thin enough to roll up and not take up much space in the truck. I "full time" so my truck bed acts as my garage for bulky gear/storage and space is at a premium.

Given that yours is a 22 i dont think itd be too much of an issue, i believe the only venting that is used comes out the top and bottom on the front facia of the convection microwave on mine. just check with oliver they can probably even sell you everything needed to do it. I love mine and use the oven function quite regularly moreso than the microwave. if it ever gives out i may even try and forgoe the microwave alltogether and find a propane oven or just a toaster oven.

ive done this with a cheap stool i got on amazon. Ive been thinking about devising a way to add fold out rear legs for it so that it can serve as a standard foot stool as well.

Tough to really just pick one, and its really hard to go wrong with just about any of them. Texas parks and wildlife really does an excellent job at maintaining all of the parks and by my memory ive never really been disappointed with any of them. My personal favorite is lost maples sp for its backcountry camping but its prime attraction is when the maple trees turn in the fall.

On my way back to Texas i want to make a detour up to DC to visit one of the Smithsonian museums. Any of yall traveled through the area? im only planning on stopping for the day assuming ill need to find some sort of park and ride to take the bus but ive only ever been there when i was a kid so i dont know the area or if you can even park with a trailer at one of those.

A couple i knew in college is living in one of those up in either Washington or Oregon. They can be pretty pretty swanky inside.

Since i only have grey water i opted for just an 8ft garden hose its much slower but easier to handle and has worked well for me so far. except when 2 other trailers decided to pull up behind me at the dump station the other day right as i started. Some dirty looks since it was taking so long.

this was something i had been thinking about laying in bed a few weeks ago listening to the AC. it really seems like the compressor itself doesnt make an unreasonable amount of noise at least to me with the soft start. the main issue is with the air blasting like a jet engine against the interior panel. my brother has a 3d printer and i have some CAD experience from college so i think im gonna try and design something to smooth out the airflow and hopefully quiet it down some.

I have this one off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCX4XGC8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details it did require some modification and fitting but it works pretty good. Im 6'2" so it does make it a tight fit to stand in the shower, however i also have a "squatty potty" type stool in there and usually shower sitting on that. Im used to having to shower on a rocking ship so its usually easier for me to shower sitting down on the ship anyways so im used to it.

Ive just put the Ollie 2.0 into storage for a few weeks while ill be gone for work and having spent most nights in it over the last few weeks i now have a few observations of the differences to share. The new folding outdoor table is super handy, I can pull the truck up next to the tongue and use my portable grill on the tailgate coming from the forward quick connect and having that little table is a handy addition for outdoor cooking. I do appreciate the extra fridge space that the new fridges have however being of the younger crowd i am a sucker for pizza rolls and the freezer section is so tiny you really cant put much in it. i never did get around to testing fridge power draw strictly off batteries but supposedly its much more efficient on 12v than the 3 ways were so hopefully that makes up for what i consider a loss of no longer having the option of running it on propane. While the new truma furnace and ducting changes definitely do a better job of quickly reaching set temp i absolutely think the room temperature sensor should be relocated to over the bed or at least somewhere more central rather than the far corner of the ceiling next to the bathroom wall. on the first night i ran it with temps in the low 50's at night i had set it at 70 and woke up roasting with my weather station i had set up stuck to the aft wall reading about 85 inside temp and checking my propane tank levels showed i had ripped through about 30% of a tank in only one night. setting the temp at 62 the next night and pointing a fan in the direction of the sensor kept the bed area at about 70 through the night and a much more reasonable 10% propane usage. Honestly i think they wouldve been better off keeping the old furnace if you dont opt for the truma package and simply reworking the ducting which would eliminate the need for a separate control panel for each A/C and furnace as now you are forced to get the truma package if you want it on the same panel because i have not been able to find anything that would let me control both the dometic penguin and the truma furnace on one unit. I specifically did not want the truma AC becuase i like having the easy start and being able to run it on the small honda 2200 or the slightly sketchy 80 year old wiring of my grandparents garage when im back home visiting the folks and as little as i use the ac anyways i dont really mind the noise all that much, maybe ill swap it out for a houghton at some point. i would have liked the truma water heater but they will no longer install that unless you get the whole truma package with the AC.

I made the trip there and back with my LE1 this spring, 7 days from San Antonio to Fairbanks if you're driving with purpose though i wouldn't recommend pushing that hard for most folks, the drive through canada is almost as stunning as alaska so enjoy it. a couple things to keep in mind, many of the campgrounds in BC/Yukon are out of cell signal range so best to either plan fuel stops and breaks the day before or plan on having a non phone based GPS. there are some fuel spots that are listed on google maps that you cant use unless you work for whatever logging/drilling company is operating in that area so try not to wait till youre real low on gas to fill up just in case you accidentally end up at one of those. Bring a tire plug kit, tire shops are few and far between in the western half of Canada. most campgrounds once youre into remote BC and the yukon are first come first served with no way to check availability online beforehand as theyre generally self serve/envelope payment. many are also only open during prime summer travel months. they'll have free firewood but dont count on having hookups aside from a single water spigot if anything to serve the whole campground. A couple of favorite spots for me is laird hot springs on the northern edge of BC and Congdon creek campground in Yukon. ive also seen plenty of folks with campers just staying overnight in the many pullouts on the side of the road do so at your own risk i dont know the actual rules about that.

For those of you that leave the dining table as a full size bed what do you use for under bed storage? In my previous trailer I was using just two of the cheap under bed storage boxes from target that can open either way stacked on top of eachother but I was never really satisfied with that due to it being rather clunky to use. I was planning on fabricating a set of long drawers in similar fashion as the elfa brand drawers however the sheet metal shear at my work has been damaged beyond repair so I'm trying to find some off the shelf option to hold me over with little success.

Well folks hull #1434 has been delivered today. Unfortunate as the circumstances were that cost me my first Ollie, I'm glad to be back in a new one. Currently staying at The Colonies rv park in Fort Monroe VA. Nice Small park just spitting distance from the Fort Monroe national monument.

@Mike and Carol Has anyone found a good solution for mitigating the blinds falling off? That was something that plagued me on the way back from Alaska this spring.

personally id go with option 3. i think its more likely that its a propane rated pipe dope than loctite.

i have yet to be back since ive had a travel trailer but a few years back when i camped there in a tent i recall seeing an oliver at the rio grand village campground.

may be shipping location dependent? not sure. when i had my work address selected as default it didnt show it as available but when i changed to my home address in Texas it showed in stock.

On my 22 it would cause it to retract any time the lights of the truck came on such as opening the doors or locking/unlocking it. i suspect its tied to the trailers running lights as those would come on as well.

Ill throw in another vote in favor of the mopeka. My 3rd night in alaska i ran out of propane sometime in the early morning. that was a cold wake up given that temps were sill dipping down into the negatives at night. immediately ordered the mopeka and they worked pretty much flawlessly. once the tank is nearly empty they do get a little squirly with the readings but its so much better being able to keep track of the levels on my phone than having to go out and check the tanks every day when its that cold.

@ScubaRx thats exactly what happened. When it went over it broke the hinge pin on the bulldog so it was just the chains keeping me attached to it. It slid maybe 40-50 feet on its side as it pulled me sideways. the crack in the AC housing and missing TV antenna were from where it hit one of those black plastic poles on the side of the road.

Everything inside was pretty much intact aside from the bathroom wall being pushed in a bit. If the money was there it could have certainly been fixed. parts and materials cost was maybe 1/4 of the repair estimate and all the rest was labor as it would take quite a while for them to fix everything. Even the frame and axles were all still perfectly straight so the tow company i used to get it to the mothership simply replaced the bulldog coupler and towed it back. I was told by the insurance that they had it picked it up today and will send it to a salvage auction. Honestly it would make a steal of a parts vehicle with all the upgrades that were on it if someone wanted to pull everything out and transplant them into a different trailer or van remodel.

I have State farm comprehensive coverage. looking through the current build sheet with the payout theyre giving me should cover at least 98% of the cost of a 2023 as the price has increased quite a bit since last year but thats not too big of an issue for me. The truck did manage to escape unharmed aside from the hitch needing to be replaced.