Water Filtration System

[jd1923]

Planning a dual-filter water filtration system to be installed in the rear basement of the Oliver, where the incoming water lines are located. My goal is to use one of the City or Fresh water hose inlets to supply the filtration system and block off the other hose bib. Then post filtration, install a 3-way water valve within reach, to choose the City line (hose pressurized) or the line to fill the Fresh Tank.

Decided on the Clearsource Premier™ product vs. their 3-filter Ultra system which seems to be overkill given water will sit in fresh tank anyway. Then I thought, why buy their rather expensive $400 system vs. just purchasing the parts? What a deal! I purchased two filter housings, a filter wrench and a filter kit (on a discount by adding an annual subscription) all for $140 delivered. Clearsource sells the complete filter housings at only $30 ea. I will get other parts from Lowes or Depot, since this purchase did not include the plumbing, nor a proper installation bracket.

I'll present more as I build it. Though right now, I have a question, for those in the know! Please check out the second picture. Why so many connectors on the internal plumbing? I see a connector AND another connector, perhaps with a built-in pressure restrictor, or backflow preventor? Also wondering why I see a third Pex line without any connectors?

Please advise, before I tear all of this apart! It's just like Oliver to install devices that may need maintenance, so deep and out of reach!

[Jason Foster]

I have a filter in my other camper.  It is fine until it is time to winterize.  I have to take it completely apart.  Don't forget to put a bypass system in place when you hook it up.

[rich.dev]

Ok if it will help, here's the plumbing diagram of a 2017, not sure if it’s the same as your 2016. 

[SeaDawg]

2 hours ago, Jason Foster said:

I have a filter in my other camper.  It is fine until it is time to winterize.  I have to take it completely apart.  Don't forget to put a bypass system in place when you hook it up.

We blew up the membrane filter in our ro system, last year, in our barn in NC,  forgetting about the pressures of blowing out the system, (we think.. )

Also, cracked a housing in another part of our multipart, complicated filtration system. We think it froze. Neither will happen again. (We hope.😁)

To just filter water incoming, I'd buy or build a two part incoming filter, for outdoors,  and only put a good quality fine filter on the sink water, imo. RO wastes a lot of water, too much for a camper. 

[Jason Foster]

37 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

We blew up the membrane filter in our ro system, last year, in our barn in NC,  forgetting about the pressures of blowing out the system, (we think.. )

Also, cracked a housing in another part of our multipart, complicated filtration system. We think it froze. Neither will happen again. (We hope.😁)

To just filter water incoming, I'd buy or build a two part incoming filter, for outdoors,  and only put a good quality fine filter on the sink water, imo. RO wastes a lot of water, too much for a camper. 

That sucks.  I am a firm believer in KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid).  The filter I have is a three-part system.  It came with the trailer.  Thankfully, it has a bypass, so now it NEVER gets used.  I only use a water pressure regulator with a screen filter.  If we want filtered water to drink, we use a tabletop filtration system.

[Jason Foster]

1 hour ago, rich.dev said:

Ok if it will help, here's the plumbing diagram of a 2017, not sure if it’s the same as your 2016. 

This is cool.  Where can I find one for a 2023 LE2?

[rich.dev]

2 minutes ago, Jason Foster said:

This is cool.  Where can I find one for a 2023 LE2

Here you go, in the 2023 manual, there’s more good stuff here 

[Jason Foster]

28 minutes ago, rich.dev said:

Here you go, in the 2023 manual, there’s more good stuff here 

Thanks so much.  I haven't completely gone through everything in Oliver University so I hadn't seen this.  This is good stuff, though, and didn't want to pass up the opportunity.

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, rich.dev said:

Ok if it will help, here's the plumbing diagram of a 2017, not sure if it’s the same as your 2016. 

Thanks Rich! Your diagram shows me the third line is for the outdoor shower. This is very helpful. Anybody know why there are so many fittings on the incoming water lines? Looks like an inline pressure regulator but would like confirmation, for those who can identify the inline parts. Thanks

[ScubaRx]

4 hours ago, jd1923 said:

...Looks like an inline pressure regulator but would like confirmation, for those who can identify the inline parts. Thanks

Those back-flow preventers (Allows water to flow only in one direction - note the tiny arrow on each of them in the plumbing graphic).

[jd1923]

9 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

Those back-flow preventers (Allows water to flow only in one direction - note the tiny arrow on each of them in the plumbing graphic).

Thanks Steve, I thought backflow or pressure regulator. Yes, the drawing shows it on the hose bib vs. the rear of the trailer. Wonder why do they need the second brass connector on each line? Are there both backflow and pressure regulator in-line?

[jd1923]

19 hours ago, Jason Foster said:

I have a filter in my other camper.  It is fine until it is time to winterize.  I have to take it completely apart.  Don't forget to put a bypass system in place when you hook it up.

17 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We blew up the membrane filter in our ro system, last year, in our barn in NC, forgetting about the pressures of blowing out the system, we think...

To just filter water incoming, I'd buy or build a two-part incoming filter, for outdoors, and only put a good quality fine filter on the sink water...

I was thinking that we would replace the filters annually, being part-timers. This is the time of year to empty the plumbing lines and tanks. I never have used any kind of RV antifreeze. So, I could change the filters after blowing out the lines when the filter canisters should be half empty.

Once with our Bigfoot I had forgotten to reduce air pressure on my shop compressor prior to blowing out the lines. Was somehow lucky that time, but it's usually set down at 50 PSI or less.

I've drained the HW heater 3 times now, since our June Oliver purchase, and every time there is sooooo much scale (just did it again yesterday). I use a cleaning wand and more and more scale keeps coming out. I could have literally filled a gallon jug with scale so far! I have a new anode to install this time. I'm also going to work the OTT vinegar procedure to remove scale from the cold-water lines soon.

Yes, it would be easier to have an external unit, no installation required, though if I can get it nicely installed, it would be so much easier at every campsite or fill-up of the fresh holding tank.

[Jason Foster]

8 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I was thinking that we would replace the filters annually, being part-timers. This is the time of year to empty the plumbing lines and tanks. I never have used any kind of RV antifreeze. So, I could change the filters after blowing out the lines when the filter canisters should be half empty.

Once with our Bigfoot I had forgotten to reduce air pressure on my shop compressor prior to blowing out the lines. Was somehow lucky that time, but it's usually set down at 50 PSI or less.

I've drained the HW heater 3 times now, since our June Oliver purchase, and every time there is sooooo much scale (just did it again yesterday). I use a cleaning wand and more and more scale keeps coming out. I could have literally filled a gallon jug with scale so far! I have a new anode to install this time. I'm also going to work the OTT vinegar procedure to remove scale from the cold-water lines soon.

Yes, it would be easier to have an external unit, no installation required, though if I can get it nicely installed, it would be so much easier at every campsite or fill-up of the fresh holding tank.

Are you thinking that filtering the water will cut down on the scale buildup?

[John E Davies]

9 hours ago, Jason Foster said:

Are you thinking that filtering the water will cut down on the scale buildup?

A filter is just for particles and bugs - for hard water with dissolved minerals, you must use a water softener, which will definitely help with scale. In fact it will clean out old deposits from throughout the plumbing in several months.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[jd1923]

On 11/13/2023 at 4:58 AM, John E Davies said:

A filter is just for particles and bugs - for hard water with dissolved minerals, you must use a water softener...

Thanks JD, this is super helpful! I get it now. History of my Oliver must have had a lot of extremely hard salty SW desert water (like the water at Quartzite AZ). Installing a new anode and bi-annual rinsing of the HWH should at least keep the scale at bay.

Map of water hardness in the United States | U.S. Geological Survey (usgs.gov)

Mountain water where we live is up to 7 grains/gallon and we enjoy our water at home, filtered for drinking only. On the map you can see the high country of AZ is in the white and blue zones, with the desert SW in the RED zone, which is where we all enjoy our winter camping.

As kids, we lived in northern IL (when not yet on Lake Michigan water) where well water was up to 25 grains. I could never stand the never-rinsed feel of softened water, though perhaps the technology is better today. I remember the heavy bags of salt were useful during winter weather for added weight in our RWD vehicles of the day! You can see on the map that most of that area is also in the RED zone. Go to Chicago area now, wash your face and this 'lake' water smells strongly of chlorine!

[jd1923]

On 11/11/2023 at 5:43 PM, SeaDawg said:

To just filter water incoming, I'd buy or build a two-part incoming filter, for outdoors, and only put a good quality fine filter on the sink water.

I decided the external filter made more sense. This way I can fill the 35-gal tank on my truck bed using it also, or when boondocking fill via the rear winterizing port. Mine looks like this -

Even though I built this for just over $200 (all parts and first filter set) and ClearSource sells their unit for $400 plus tax, I would never suggest you go this route. It's way easier to buy their pretty well-built unit. It is extremely difficult to drill the 8 holes for the top-mounts without a template. Same for the side openings, to be centered at right depth! Just as hard to find a box, plastic or metal, that is 14x12x6" and not larger or smaller.

Water will come in from the left. I had to add the 4" hose since my first female hose connection does not turn. I have a 4 FT hose on the right, that will stay on the filter and connect to the Oliver. I purchased a 10 FT hose for the connection and then of course we have a 25' and 50' hose when needed. I wasn't thinking of a faucet at first but found this one in a plumbing parts drawer and it's perfect. With this, you can run on City water when available, close the valve and switch the hose to the Fresh Tank inlet to bring some with you for the next stop (and refill my truck mounted tank). The junction box came with a cover. You can see the hinge for it, but I'm thinking it just adds unnecessary weight, and filled with water this will be very heavy. Waited long for some of these parts, and it's done!

[Frank C]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

I decided the external filter made more sense. This way I can fill the 35-gal tank on my truck bed using it also, or when boondocking fill via the rear winterizing port. Mine looks like this -

I built a similar 2 stage filter system but mounted it in a standard 6 gallon milk crate.  All hoses, regulator and fittings store in the crate and the whole thing slides easily into the basement storage area for travel.  The filters are mounted using Camco filter mounts attached to aluminum “Z” hanger picture hanging brackets (one bracket on the filters and one bracket screwed to the milk crate) so the filter assembly lifts out to do filter changes.  Quick connect fittings on everything so setup at the campground is quick.