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@Katy McAnarney welcome to the dysfunctional Oliver window club but sorry you are having this issue like so many of us. This is how I have re-installed the sliding window with either new or cleaned and refurbished gutter track. First put the siding window into its channel without the rubber track. Coat the rubber track with silicone and wipe off excess. Position the sliding window approximately half open/closed and gently start feeding the rubber track into the bottom of the channel and below the sliding window first. You will only get so far, then start to close the window part way, hold the rubber track against the sliding window then start to push open again as far as it will go. Repeat this back and forth process for a few efforts until the rubber track appears on the far side of the sliding window at which point you should be able to grab the rubber track and pull the it through as far as it needs to go. Open the window all the way and feed the rubber track into the remaining channel along the bottom then up the vertical side and into the top leaving several inches of dangling rubber track. At this point you will need to slide the window forward into a partially closed portion so that you can repeat what was done on the bottom channel. This will also take a few passes to complete. It will be virtually impossible to do this without the use of silicone. The rubber alone just has too much friction. Once you get the hang of it the process will go much easier in the future. I don't think it is possible to do this with the rubber track already installed. The silicone allows for very easy back and forth maneuvering of the rubber track and window. It's far easier to start on the bottom rail first before the top. Hope this helps

I listed my take of Pros & Cons on page 1 of the link I posted above. Most of it came from Tom Morton's YouTube review of the Chill Cube: Testing the Furrion Chill Cube 18k Variable-Speed AC: The Future of RV Air Conditioning?

I have actually done that when I had to deal with the railroad retirement board. My elected reps took very little time in contacting the 'board' and my problem was solved quite quickly thereafter. However, I must say, that the RRB is a bit more on top of things and the board certainly doesn't deal with many millions of retirees

Thanks for the info @jd1923! Our trip so far this year (Jan-June) has been pretty schizophrenic weather-wise. From NOLA to Reno we’ve had surprisingly cool weather - toying with needing tire chains, and once having to depart a camp site early to avoid having to get stranded by a major storm. I think we’ve run the A/C only 4 times - and just long enough to bring the temp down from high 80’s to mid 70’s. We’ve yet to make that “seeking 70’s” circle tour of the US work for us. Last year in Florida - we were freezing our butts off or running from mosquitoes. I guess I’ll look into this “Chill Cube”….

Pretty similar deal. The company doesn’t administer the pension program. So we’d be in an endless finger-pointing debate between the workplace and the pension administrator.

The “local office” (40 miles away) isn’t even available to make appointments at any longer. Our signing up was a breeze - all online before the big reduction in force. No issues there at all. Things you can do online are also quite simple. What we’re asking further is also really quite simple - it SHOULD be something you can do online. When Deb called to inquire 120+ days later about her form - the person at the other end of the line said: “we have a huge mailroom…” We’re probably gonna have to go through our Congressman’s office. Supposedly they can make SSA do its job. Biggest issue is that 2 years of retroactive pension payments are likely gone forever. Though, you can be sure that once we establish that she did indeed work there (at this Fortune 509 company) that they were negligent losing her records and owe us 2 years of pension payments.

We had a torrential downpour last weekend and had the rear emergency window leak terribly. Both beds wet a good deal. We ended our trip early and came home. I did not use pipe cleaners in the weep holes. I will do so now. I've cleaned and replaced the original molding on the outside about 1.5 years ago. Upon inspection of the gutter and molding on the emergency exit window, the gutter the window slides on was brittle and about rotten. I opened a ticket with Oliver and I received a response with step by step instructions on how to replace the gutter after cleaning the trays. This included removing the window pane. So we did that. Cleaned everything up, replaced the gutter and replaced it with a product from the company Oliver suggested, steelerubber.com. The gutter is one, continuous running piece, that starts at the street side bottom and runs to curb side, up and then over the top of the window and terminates at the top street side. Everything has been done and the new track gutter fits perfectly. But, now we cannot get the window back on track. I've tried just about everything. I've even swung the window outwards hoping to be able to clearance over the shade track to re-seat the window panes on the track. Didn't work. I've tried putting the gutter around the window first and then popping the window back in. Again, couldn't get the window pane over the last steel rim to seat it into the track. The idea being putting in the top part of the pane first, and the pushing it up and seating the bottom. I cannot get clearance over the trim of the window frame. It lacks probably 1/8 of an inch. I even attempted to put the old gutters back in, thinking the new gutters were too thick. I compared the two pieces side by side and they are exactly the same thickness, but that didn't work either. I'm so frustrated. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 2021 LE II, twin bed set up, Hull #920, La Dame Blanche

I feel your pain! We headed down a dirt road to visit Toadstool Geological Park NE a day after a rain ( without the trailer luckily ). The mud was sticky and slick all at the same time, completely filled the wheel wells and turned the tires into slicks. We paddled in 4WD for miles. Later the slurry dried nearly to concrete consistency! Weeks later I was still washing bits and pieces of the stuff out from under the truck!

JD, Mud flaps have been on my to do list for along time. I was planning to install John Davies design but your idea looks to be a bit less effort for instalation and appears to provide protection up into the wheel well. The clearance between the flap and the tire appears to have a small clearance. My concern: I have been caught by a storm on dirt / clay roads with not rock top dressing. The road surface stick / wraps a couple of inches of clay around all the tires. Does your design have enough clearance to accommodate this extreme situation? Hopefully, I will not be caught by these road condtions in the future but want a design for all conditions.

Wow! And I thought being self employed had its issues. Can't imagine how you would deal with that scenario.

I have "flat plug" four pin connections on my Oliver bike rack. I ran a connection wire under the Oliver to my F-150 and plug it directly into the truck. To accomadate both the trailer electrical cord and the bike rack cord I remove the truck outlet cover and replace when not towing. To remove and replace the outlet cover I replaced the plug hing with a pin that can be pulled and replaced. (If you are interested I can post photos tomorrow. This system has work flawlessly for two years

Yeah, and then you have altitude. Our trip was mainly in June, not July-August! I expected heat in Kansas or Iowa but was not expecting it in the Dakotas and Wyoming. Finally, Colorado camping at 9K ft was cool! 😎 Drove down to Phoenix on Thursday to pick up Chris from Sky Harbor Airport. High temp on the truck trip computer was 112F on Phoenix highways. The high in Prescott was 85F (low 58F). Our home is at 5400 FT. That's a 27-degree difference with 4300 ft change in elevation. In Arizona you can drive a couple hours and change your weather which doesn't work in the Midwest!

In our case my wife's first employer no longer exists so that made things a bit more difficult.

We pretty much dont travel in July unless we get an unusual cool stretch and can mobilize quickly. We have the quieter Truma ac but still the point is to be outside. If the heat doesnt get you up here in northland the humidity and mosquitoes will. I have researched how far north i need to go to get substantial temperatures drops (vs south central wisconsin) and the outcome was not encouraging. By heading to far northern wisconsin or the southern portions of the UP, we might see about a 5 degree temp drop. If we get up to the northern side of lake superior or the Apostle Islands that might improve to a 7 to 10 degree drop depending on positioning of the jet stream. Anything more probably requires the Canadian rockies!

I agree working with the local office has been far better for us dealing with my wife's alzheimer's sister. It was very easy to get a call through, leave a message and they return the call. Apparently, or at least in this neck of the woods SSA office no longer takes in person visits any longer and haven't for quite a few years. It's also true their workforce has been substantially reduced. I would also recommend going back to the source of your wife's work place which is where this problems originates not the SSA per se. It's ludicrous they do not have a record of her working there for 20 years. Get a lawyer then I'll bet they will come up with her work records in short order. Sorry you're having to go through this, what PITA.

I started mine in early 2026 preemptively because it all seems like a train wreck around the next bend. Waiting until 70 for max benefit seemed too risky so thought i should just start pulling my money out now. My benefit fell into place with only online input in late 2025. The spousal benefit took an additional two phones calls and there too, SSA didnt have the work record. But in the end that straightened out and the money is flowing. It helped to keep records of the agent you are talking to, get their phone number and work with the same person everytime!!! It might also help to work thru your local office.

Dave I remember seeing that photo in the past. For me the pipe cleaners do next to nothing unless I go out and manually pump them back and forth which will remove quite a bit of water from the weep holes. On one window I have enlarged the weep holes, curb side rear, and that window seems to consistently have much less water in the channels and doesn't tend to leak either. I have never heard of paracord though, what the heck is that? Will have to look into this. Thanks

I posted this pic a couple years ago in another leaky window thread. Those weep slots are just not up to the task of keeping water from building up in the tracks (capillary attraction really hinders water flow). Folks talked about using pipe cleaners and lantern wicks to help wick out the water (maybe they work as well) but I find that 1/8" paracord works great. Cut some 3" lengths and stuff them in the slots. It's amazing how well they work! Don't heat seal the ends! Easy to replace and everyone has some paracord around right? Some may think it's kind of ugly looking but better than a wet bed! Cheers, Dave

We've had rain off and on since last night and a sizable downpour mid morning, so with new weather stripping gaskets installed on the windows thought it would be a good time to see how well they have performed. Initially no leaks a good thing given the amount of rain. Brought out my portable wet/dry vac and vacuumed all the weep holes and ended up with around 6 oz of water collected from the windows. IOW's the new gaskets did little to nothing to stop infiltration. Photo posted below to illustrate the amount of water collected. Water was poured into a measuring cup to verify amount. Until this point there were no leaks inside the trailer, but it kept raining. This afternoon I checked again and sure enough a small leak had started to occur on the street side rear window. Not enough to be a major issue yet but the fitted sheet had a wet spot about 3-4 inches in diameter. Weep holes were not emitting or leaking water which was no surprise. The tracks have been cleaned twice in the last month alone. The upside down weep holes at the top of the frames have been plugged all to no avail. The new installed gutters do avert water running down the side of the trailer but offer no benefit from rain hitting the windows directly. I can't imagine living down south where torrential downpours are normal and putting up with this. I'm at a loss for how to deal with this going forward. Thanks

Did you do this trip yet? Any feedback on the Chill Cube in hot humid weather? Does it keep up with the heat. Is power consumption doable on your batteries? 😎 If your trip is still on the horizon, let us know afterwards. Thanks!

That's what I thought. Living in Arizona we do not travel in the summer months. Then a couple experiences changed my thinking! Over two years ago we did a SW Utah trip, from Apr 21 to May 7, 2024. You wouldn't think it would get hot, springtime at high elevation, and most of the trip was fine. The day we left, we dropped down about 3K ft to US-93 and we boondocked in Wikieup, AZ. It was 93F when we got there and fortunately by 9PM it was cool enough to be in the cabin again. Back then we still had lead acid and the Dometic P2 so all we had tp remove cabin heat was the Maxxfan. Our next stop was to be Valley of Fire SP, NV where we had booked a dry camping spot. Quite a fitting name, given the forecast showed 99F highs for the next 2 days of our reservation. We wasted that money, instead having to book an electric site at the north end of Lake Meade. Plugged in to run the G-awful Dometic A/C. I had to wear noise-cancelling headphones to watch TV and to fall asleep! Thank goodness it was only 2 of 16 nights on that trip. Last year we did a 5-week trip to Minnesota, from May 29 to July 4th. We headed out east and swung north and took a northern route back. I believe it was 12 of 36 nights where we needed A/C. I had thought being so far north we wouldn't need A/C, bad assumption. We even had to book campsites in SD and WY where we would have much preferred to boondock in the woods but were forced into a campsite to plug in. After that trip, I vowed never to hear that awful Dometic P2 again! And also, my goal was to gear up in Inverter and Ahs and replace the A/C with a unit that would sip vs. gulp Ahs. For you, the freight-train NOISE of the P2 should be enough of a driver. You plug in so yeah power consumption does not matter (though we run ours for lunch breaks on the road too). Easiest DIY out there given size and weight. The only A/C model I've heard of that needs a custom platform was the Truma. The Chill Cube has a 29x29" footprint, making it a full foot shorter to the rear. It's also the lightest unit out there. Here is my DIY thread. This link will take you down page 2 to where my installation starts. I have installed 3 RV A/C models in the last 6 years, and this one by far was the easiest. You will need to add a furnace thermostat control which I also show here:

According to AI, for whatever that's worth: "The Social Security Administration (SSA) has experienced the largest workforce reduction in its history, cutting more than 8,000 agency jobs—shrinking staff to its lowest level since 1967. These reductions and regional office closures are causing severe customer service delays, extended call wait times, and backlogs for vital disability and retirement benefits." I'm supposed to get my very first SS payment soon. Fingers crossed. Good luck.

I guess not pulling the trigger on replacing the NOISY Dometic (Penguin 2?) A/C that came with our LE2 back in early 2022 has opened the field for more upgrade options? I’m still hoping to DIY this project - so is the latest consensus the “Chill Cube”? Is some kind of external roof support still an issue? NOT on lithium or solar, almost always plugged in, so AH’s are not on our criteria list. We like the condensate drains through the tubes between the hulls as opposed to running off the roof - but not opposed to running it through an external tube if that is an option. One big reason that we haven’t rushed into anything as of yet is that we -rarely- use the A/C. It’s got to get to the high 80’s before we opt to break out the earplugs, crank the TV volume to 100, and run the A/C until we get to 70-something and shut it off again. I guess I’ll run the original equipment until it stops working at this rate. (That, and avoid Texas in August…)

It would help if you showed a picture of the "flat plug" on your new bike rack. Without seeing that, I might guess it could be the 4-pin trailer connection (for small trailers without brakes). Here is an example: Curt Vehicle Wiring Harness with 5-Pole Flat Trailer Connector - 60" Wire Lead CURT Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring C58531 What you're attempting is not an easy job! Most trucks that have the 7-blade connector also have a 4-pin connection zip-tied somewhere above the bumper. But the Oliver doesn't have one! 🤣 You can pick connections for brake lights, turn signals, reverse and running lights in one of two locations. 1) tap into the lights at the rear of the Oliver, or 2) at the junction box where OTT splices the 7-blade harness into the Oliver trailer wiring. I believe this junction box in newer Olivers is inside the bathroom vanity, but who knows on a 2026. In our hull it's easily accessed under the front dinette seat (see picture). If I was doing this for our hull, I would pick option #2 since you can see these wires are easily accessible (likely not so in your Oliver). The link I supplied shows a 60" wire which is fine for rear wiring. If you are going up to the front harness, you want something like this that has longer wires. It's actually rather easy to run wiring from the rear, along the streetside basement, all the way up to front junction box. 35 Ft 4-Way Trailer Wiring Harness - Wishbone Style - 42" Ground Optronics Trailer Wiring A35W42B The hard part front or rear is to tap into the existing wiring. I rarely recommend using 3M Scotchlok™ connectors, but I would in this case since secondary rear wiring on a bike rack is not exactly "mission critical." Hope this helps! 😎