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Our 2023 has the same connection without the kink. Actually this is a nice trap design as the trap material is soft enough to prevent cracking if water is left in the trap during winter storage. It's a tough location to work in but should be able to be corrected. If the kink remains after removal try placing in boiling water for a few minutes to restore it to normal shape. Otherwise Oliver should be able to supply a new one.

Edit: @Steve and MA was quicker on the keyboard than me but I will leave additional thoughts below. I've always monitored the fresh overflow and fill rate closely when filling and flushing the fresh tank. I make sure my fill rate is very slow as the overflow is nowhere near large enough to accommodate a high fill rate. As soon as water starts sputtering out the overflow I shut the supply off. If I want to flush the system for and extended period, I reduce the flow to a fast trickle and monitor while working around the trailer. The holding tanks are not pressure rated, and even at a relatively low supply pressure such as 25psi, a fill rate say 10% faster than the overflow rate would slowly "inflate" the holding tank. It all depends on the overflow capacity to keep up the the fill rate. A strong stream at the overflow in my mind indicates a pressurized system and needs to be shut down immediately. Related to jd's comment above, I just happened to purchase a smart phone borescope earlier this morning on Amazon for other reasons, but realize it will be perfect for inspecting various concealed and hard to reach spaces on the Oliver. This may be just the tool for @Rivernerd to purchase for his evaluation, and keep onboard for future inspection needs. https://a.co/d/00rWQwkn

That begs a question. What's the internal diameter of the overflow tube? If it's equal to, or larger than, the shoreline hose and the plumbing leading to the tank, wouldn't they have the same flow rate?

Nice design actually for maintenance, should be easy to remove and clean out compared to rigid pipe

Yes. New from the factory in 2022.

Finished off the SiO2C6 coating! Took one 250 ml bottle exactly for two coats over the whole trailer, including two Seafoam storage boxes (tops), two awnings and various metal bits like the doorstep. Except for the solar panel, mainly I want to get that bug catcher front edge but will do the top too. But I bought the 30' new trailer kit which has two bottles. What to do with the unopened second bottle? Once a bottle is opened it needs to be used within a month or so Option One: Inside I'm considering doing the inside too, at least strategic parts of it. The bathroom is a prime candidate to make shower cleanup easy. The countertops too, they're a thick gelcoat I believe which picks up fine scratches. I'll do a small test and see how well that works out. The floor rounded edges along the aisle is a prime candidate, those take a lot of wear. I've been waxing them but that doesn't really do a lot honestly. Checking with an AI opinion, Gemini is saying 'yes you can but generally not recommended'. Main reason being the solvent fumes (I have 3M cartridge chemical respirators and we have the ceiling fan), and basically its overkill, which is reasonable. Presently I'm using DuraGloss two step - base marine wax with a quick clean touch up, which works OK but not like a silicon coat. Option Two: Refresh coat Other option is to save the bottle (storage temp is important) until the next year or year and a half, and apply a refresh top coat. I think I'll do this Procedure (notes to my future self) Use that unused bottle of Glidecoat nano wash (deep chemical wash) Check the surface, rough spots (previous coating glitches) and scratches Use leftover SONAX EX-04-06 with foam pad, 4500 RPM, three passes crosshatch Two towel wipe off 3'x3' sections Alcohol/GC Surface wipe two towel Apply coating in a cross hatch pattern, let flash 30-60 seconds Two towel leveling (wipe off cross hatch, second towel in a circular method) Also do the missed parts Underbody (why not I've got plenty to use up?) Solar Truma plastic covers Front door, door step aluminum and other exposed aluminum Rear bumper metal

Reading through this thread, something that hasn't been mentioned as a possible cause is the flow rate of the water filling the tank. Though a water pressure regulator will inherently slow the water flow due to its restrictive internal passages, it's meant to restrict pressure (PSI) not rate (GPM). If water can enter the tank faster than the overflow tube can purge the excess, then the flexible plastic tank would have to expand until it had enough back pressure for the regulator to stop the flow. The point being that a regulator may be of little benefit when filling the fresh tank.

I spent a lifetime in full spectrum manufacturing. The "Voice of the Customer" was a big deal to us. It meant everything to us. We would have given anything to have something like this forum to hear what our customers were saying about our products. I promise you our CEO would read it, and I'd bet dollars to donuts it might be a topic at some of the meetings. Listening to your customers and acting on their feedback is the foundation of customer success. That’s why a Voice of the Customer program is critical for delivering value and driving durable growth. https://www.gainsight.com/essential-guide/voice-of-the-customer/

Can we assume that you purchased this Ollie "new"? I've never seen that kind of installation. Bill

I failed to mention - If you stay in Lambert's campground and eat at the restaurant be sure to mention this to your server and you will receive a 10% discount on your meal. Bill

It might not hurt to send a letter (or even an email) to Jason Essary kindly asking for his help in rectifying your issue. Good luck. Bill

Whenever we’re in Branson we visit the Keeter Center. Great food, nice gift shop. Students wait tables as a part of their tuition and it is always a good experience. Mike

I believe that it is obvious that the sons of the original founding fathers of the company still do care deeply about the product that they produce and we all enjoy. Do not confuse this with the original (and continuing) generous reasons that the Forum was created. Oliver established and pays for our OWNERS Forum as a place where Oliver owners and prospective owners can get together to discuss (without Company influence) all things related to our trailers and have never sold or released the names or any other information related to the Forum to anyone outside Oliver (unlike other platforms that use this method to generate revenue). The Moderators are NOT paid or are in any way influenced by anyone at Oliver nor (to my knowledge) is anyone else connected with our Forum. There is one person (paid by Oliver) at Oliver whose job it is (amongst a bunch of other jobs) to help us with things related to the proper performance of the platform that is used to operate the Forum. And, from time to time other personnel will take a look to see what is going on. There are also those rare occasions when the Moderators (and/or other members of the Forum) will "alert" staff at Oliver of a particular discussion that might be of direct interest to the company. That's it - this is OUR Forum to run and control with extremely little influence from the Company. Bill

Seems odd. I'd think a person with their name on a bespoke product, built by a company started by the elders, would be very vested in what their loyal and passionate customers say and think.

If you want a real dining experience in southern Missouri eat at https://www.keetercenter.edu/Dine/Dining in Branson. Camp at https://mostateparks.com/park/table-rock-state-park

As I read through the replies my memory fades back to several tire foibles of the past. The Michelin's on my 2004 truck had similar bulges. and yet I got 45k out of them, my newer 2018, had one with a "dip" in it, and had no problems. The real issue for me has usually been nails, bolts, or some such road trash trespassing into my tire causing ruin and destruction - a flat. I had great experience with the rubber on my former Ollie, no problems. Ran tire monitors, which actually resulted in more stress overall - "why is that left rear hotter than the left front, oh look, the left front is 2 psi diff, and on". I know they are good for sudden blow out, otherwise, well, not so for me. I don't recall what brand or size is on the 2027 LEII and I'm sure it will be just fine until that screwdriver jettisoned from the electrician's truck bed finds its way into the right front tire sidewall, ending the short life of a full tread left tire. My luck in a nutshell.

Here's a 2022 thread about Oliver changing to Goodyear Endurance ST tires:

Checked online for other Goodyear Endurance ST sidewall bulge discussions: Discussion 2026: https://www.airforums.com/threads/sidewall-bulge-on-new-goodyear-endurance-tire.2207120/ Discussion 2025: https://www.mygrandrv.com/threads/goodyear-endurance-tire-bulge-on-2025-2500rl-safety-risk-and-warranty-options.1200094/

Thanks Snackchaser, that makes sense.

Those are probably the emergency breakaway switch for the breaks and the CO monitor. They take a direct feed from the battery.

A jack screw! Thank you, and thanks for the photo. That's what I'm looking for. Now I know what to ask for.

Looks like they installed a flexible tube and left a twist in it. You might try loosening a clamp and twisting the kink out. Unfortunately that kink could be set and it seems like too a tight bend even for a replacement piece. Oliver should address that despite the expired warranty, it was just a poor installation from the start. Good luck, Geoff

Thanks for the detailed response. I agree—the wiring is a mess, and that’s exactly why I’m redoing all of it. I did not know about the failure rate of the Optifuse. I’m also curious about the maximum of three wires on a lug, and why there are two connections ahead of the Optifuse. For my upgrade, I’ll be using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor with ANL fuses.

It looks like you're missing the hold-down jack screw. See my post: "A different refrigerator fan option" for a picture of it. It looks like the nut part is still there from your photo, so the bolt might be laynig in there somewhere. Look behind the master switch panel, through the round marine port access, that is where it's tightened or loosened from. Good luck, Geoff

I'm not very handy so I haven't looked a lot under and around the bowels of our trailer, but recently I had an occasion to do so. Looking at my shower drain pipe I saw this: It appears that the 1.5 inch drain line has collapsed. The shower still drains slowly and there's no leaks (yet?), but I'm a bit shocked. While the pipe from the shower pan is vertical, the connection to the gray tank(?) pipe appears to be at a 45 degree angle so that buying a new P Trap doesn't appear to be a good option unless I'm willing to re-plump. Is this normal? I'm open for suggestions.