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It still sounds like the oven is failing. Something probably has a high resistance short to ground when it gets hot, and it un-shorts after it cools. A GFCI doesn’t trip on heat or overcurrent, rather it detects a current imbalance such as a high resistance short to ground. It only takes about 5 to 8 milli amps to trip a GFCI, and you have tripped several different ones. The most likely culprits are the heating element or fan, and they can short due to moisture which explains why the microwave sometimes trips it. For example, if the heating element insulation breaks down when it gets hot or damp and leaks current to ground, then the GFCI will trip. However, this condition will not trip a normal breaker, or the ovens thermal protection elements. BTW, a thermo element will open the circuit, but that does not cause a GFCI trip. Your 0.02 ohms reading is fine. Don’t modify the cabinet either, because it’s not excessive heat that trips the GFCI. BTW, I’m sure you know this, but please be careful when removing the oven covers, the microwaves high voltage capacitor can give a nasty shock even when the oven is unplugged! You seem to have electrical knowledge, so PM me if you want help with some simple troubleshooting and possible repair of the oven rather than replacing it. It may take some back and forth that's better done outside of the forum. Good luck, Geoff

I'm sure that someone here on the Forum will have some "trouble shooting" tips for you on this problem. But, I can tell you that Oliver spent several years trying to find a way to install something other than the "simple" microwave. As I understood the main issue during the time they were trying, heat dissipation was the main issue they were dealing with. Therefore, it seems (to me) likely that you have basically honed in on the root cause of your problem. Good luck in fixing what you have. Bill

We just had a freeze last night. My preparations were: turn on the "antifreeze" function for the water, disconnect the hose (we currently have fresh water hookups), "argue" with wife about the setting on the heater (she prefers 62, I prefer 60). EZPZ In my previous post I ignored a "feature" of the Ollie that I have found MUCH more challenging over the last 2.5 years: the CO alarm under the table. The Ollie seals up so tight that you could easily not use the heater on many freezing nights. Body heat is absolutely trapped. It's the perfect tent. So perfect, that certain gases accumulate and alarms get triggered. 😂 So, venting is required. Too much and you might as well be outside. Especially if it's raining. Too little and alarms will wake you up repeatedly. Last night we got it just right: Max air vent open, but off; heater ran intermittently, but never labored, no alarms. Comfort and safety. Check.

Sorry, I have got side track on this project. We went to Colorado first couple week in August. I left the Microwave in place and we decided to just microwave things. Well we had some frozen homemade soup, and forgot to thaw it out. My wife just put in the microwave at full power. After about 5 minutes, the Microwave popped the GFGI switch in the camper. It has never did this microwaving before. So this has happened on grilling, convection and now microwaving. After the trip I connected the microwave directly to a garage GFCI outlet with a 100' 20Amp extension cord, and tested again with the Convection. It popped and It seems to take more time to reset itself. So I started looking at microwaves to see if I could find a replacement microwave, but without removing it and taking outside dimensions. Also the size of the front panel and door needs to fit the trim plate, and cannot find that data online. So I stalled out, and planted more grass at home and then took another trip. I had a couple of days to play with the Microwave and pulled it out and removed all of the sheetmetal covering the unit. i looked at every wire, connector, PC boards and nothing looks a miss. No signs of over heating. I am not an Electrical tech or EE, so I can do a few basic things. First I was surprised that the PCBs were through-hole and not surface-mount technology. Last time I have seen a through-hole board was in the late 1990's. I found 3 thermal circuit breakers. One feeding the Grill mounted to the top inside sheet metal. This feeds the Grill burner only. I found another thermal breaker for the convection in the back next to the Convection fan on the cover of the Convection burner that protects the burner and fan. Then last and not least is the thermal breaker on top of the cover to the actual microwave emitter. This connected to the main incoming circuit. The power comes into the microwave and connects positive and negative to a PCB and the ground goes to the frame, and then another wire from the frame goes back to this PBC. There is a fuse and some other components that I don't know what they do. I ohm the 3 thermal breakers at 0.02 ohms and the fuse at 0 ohms. I decided to test the Microwave. I tried each mode with the covers off for about 15 seconds, ensuring all fans were working correctly and they were. I put the main cover back on and then used the convection mode at 350. It went 15 minutes, so I stopped it and put the rear and top heat shields/vents on and then restarted and went for 20 minutes, then started the grill and ran for 20 minutes. I changed the water for new cold water in the bowl and then used the microwave to heat the water for 10 minutes. The top left rear got around 130-140 degrees I am guessing. Hot enough that I could only touch for about 1 second but it did't burn me. The Microwave unit never failed. I measured the inside cabinet and the microwave, and found for the depth was less than 1/2" clearance. In fact I problems getting the microwave to set back in, and it was so tight that I think the cord got caught between the back. Also there is a little shelf in the back and the rear shield sets directly on it. covering up 1/2 of the rear vents. Also the way the side of the trailer slopes in I was very close to touching the top back side to the side of the trailer. Also Oliver had ground a small section out of bottom of the storage cabinet above so the top rear left corner would fit in there. Darn that is tight. I had never tried the convection/grill until I started this thread, but the previous owner did use the convection. I remove the microwave in may/june to add the refrigerator fan upgrade. When I used a coat hanger wire to go from inside the microwave area into the external fridge compartment for the wiring it dropped through and down into the fridge area without resistance. The taping inside the upper corners of the fridge was poor at best. So after I pass the wire and 1/2 sheathing from the switch panel down into the fridge area with no problems, i re-taped several areas long the top of the external fridge area, with higher quality aluminum tape and sealed this whole section up. I have probably been getting some CO in the microwave compartment from the propane burner in the fridge. I decided to seal the area between the microwave cabinet and the fridge exterior compartment with spray foam. I also think I sealed the area between the hulls when I did this so I was not getting any air coming up from the basement. I am thinking that everything was so tight in the cabinet, that reducing that small amount of possible airflow caused increased temp and the main thermal breaker to open. I'm not exactly sure how this popped the GFCI unless there was arching when it opened. I have thought about testing this theory, by running in convection mode with all of the covers off, and getting the main thermal breaker positioned so i can get a heat gun to heat up the breaker and see if it trips the GFCI breaker when thermal breaker opens. I am thinking of removing the small step/shelf in the back of the cabinet. Removing the white board in the back removing some of the bubble insulation behind the microwave and then digging some of the Foam insulation to possibly get some air-flow from the basement. Questions 1. Do you think I am on the right track? 2. If my theory is correct. and the Thermal breaker has been opening. Should I replace the thermal breaker just because it has opened at least 10 times in all of my testing? You can see the shelf in the back that covers the bottom vent holes, and the white panel in the back, as well as the foam I sprayed in on the sides. Back of the microwave, the sheet metal cover that sits on the shelf. The main thermal breaker and the PC board for incoming power.

I can relate. Many years ago, we headed south I -40, I was asleep in the passenger seat, my wife driving. I wake up - "what is that thumping?" Oh it started a min or so back! We pulled over, the tire on the boat trailer was just about gone, and the fender was toast. Lessons learned. TPMS is invaluable. RB

I had the cutout plug in my black tank. Luckily it flowed out without too much trouble.

I do miss the comfort of the RAM Air on the 1500. Plush.

I've towed our Ollie with a RAM 1500 gasser for 2.5 years (see map/signature below). We're from FL, and on flat land we get 13 mpg towing at 65 MPH highway. Tows like a dream. In mountains, it still handles very well. But mpg is dramatically worse and you either have to rev like crazy or slow down. I slow down (and dream about upgrading to a 2500). The RAM 1500 is also a very comfy daily driver. Best of luck.

The screen should be at the end of the tube, not part way up. Plenty of room for a wasp nest below that screen.

I have created a Google My Map of known Oliver owner rallies as well as a link to the fiberglass RV Map maintained by another. For that external map, see the RED star icon in the Atlantic ocean. It will take you to the google map for general fiberglass rallies for 2027. The map I created is a private map, and only those with the link will be able to find it. Then again, this is an open forum, so forget what I said. All this info is public knowledge. https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1dsUQmPEsXOhV3KgTIkwI1QzIeWChkCw&ll=38.15274742744178%2C-102.1311338875&z=5 This should be for open rallies only. If you want a private rally, then don't tell anyone you don't want to show up. 😉 A life lesson. Let me know if you want anything added or suggestions for changes.

Yikes! As late as last fall they still had the $18 flat fee no matter the order size. Any time I needed something, I’d tack on a box of nuts, bolts, or washers in a size I was short on to offset the shipping. I guess I’ll be buying even more fasteners the next time! 🤪

keeps the bugs out of your water system. GH

Assuming the tank is still secure in it's original position I have to agree. That is clearly a MFG Latent Defect. OTT needs to determine the obvious and fix your issure despite the warranty being out of play. In the past, they certainly would have. Suggest elevation of the above relivant posts to Jason E. GJ

It is quite possible that the tank openings were drilled and the shavings have partially bloced the tank overflow. Others have had such an issue with the fresh tank water drain tube. GJ

The Federal and State Trade Commissions say that companies are legally required to fix defects or honor claims reported during the active warranty period. Unfortunately, many companies are not aware of that. They are not obligated to honor claims identified after the warranty expires, but sometimes it's just the right thing to do.

Less than 10 attendees have requested the list - so far. Note that this list may not be available at the Rally in printed form. Therefore if you would like to know where attendees are located in the campground - shoot me your email address and I'll do my best to get you a copy via return email. Bill

I agree with @Steph and Dud B and am surprised. Note that there is a "Tech Support" number that has been more responsive to me this year than the "Service" number; maybe due to having more personnel available to answer the phone, I'm not really sure, but you might try that.

Thank you for the kind support Steve. Yes the new design is approximately 6" long and a slightly larger "Z" profile for more coverage. I had planned on offering these at future rallies way back when I shared the information with you. Since then the shipping cost for the material has skyrocketed to a minimum of $50. Several owners have since expressed and interest in this accessary for their Oliver. For this reason I ordered enough to make eight sets to offset that shipping cost slightly. I think I'm clearing approximately $10 per set above my costs per set at $50. My real interest is sharing the solution with those who find it helpful for their camping needs. If others want a set I would gladly make additional sets in the future and ship, or even share the information to make a set themselves.

Last chance on these brand new wheel well liners for late model F-150's! Note that these will not fit Raptors. Bill

These are a wonderful addition. I put a set on ours after seeing Chris's, and they really help cut down the glare. We've had other Oliver owners ask about them, too. BTW, I made my own after Chris sent me the material information. Chris is NOT asking a premium for these, unless he is only paying himself pennies/hour for his time. Each piece is cut to length, all four corners rounded, every surface sanded for the paint to adhere, degreased, and painted both sides with two coats of Oliver matching paint. Then a double-sided adhesive is added. As of today, a piece of the material Chris uses and shipping is $36, plus paint and adhesive. $50 is a more than fair price. I think Chris is now making these a bit longer than then I saw them. So the spillover at the ends would be reduced even more. Thanks, Chris!

I'm going to save $2000 and a week of troubleshooting and check the last issue first. I always start at the bottom and not from the top. So silly. I could not wait to see what happened, but I read the entire thread. Still, we all learned something. 😉 Was that a loose or completely disconnect battery connection?

Hey everyone, I just wanted to bump this topic back up for folks heading to the rally next week. I have made eight sets of the curb light shields that I described above and will be bringing them to the rally next week. They will be available to purchase on a first come first served basis for anyone attending. We will be at site G35 if you would like a set. I've priced them at $50 per set. BTW this is an easy install of 5-10 minutes where your trailer is parked. Looks like the weather is going to be really nice for the rally, can't wait to see everyone again!

The 6.2L EcoTec3 V8 (L87 engine) used in the GMC Sierra 1500 (and its GM sister vehicles like the Chevrolet Silverado, Yukon, and Escalade) has been at the center of significant technical scrutiny and major recalls in recent years. 1. Major Safety Recall: Connecting Rod / Crankshaft Defects The Issue: A critical manufacturing defect in connecting rods and main bearings/crankshafts resulted in severe internal engine damage, engine knocking, sudden stalling, or catastrophic engine failure. Affected Vehicles: Broadly covers 2021 through May 2024 model year GM vehicles equipped with the 6.2L L87 V8 (affecting nearly 600,000 trucks and SUVs). The Remedy: Dealerships inspect the engine for metallic debris or rod knock. If damage is present, a full engine replacement is authorized. Non-defective engines receive a specialized inspection, new oil cap/service guidance, and an extended 10-year / 150,000-mile engine powertrain warranty. Federal Investigation: Federal safety regulators (NHTSA) opened and expanded investigations after reports of repeated failures, including on some engines replaced under the initial recall scope. Note: Models built after May 2024 and 2025–2026 production units utilize updated engine components to address this manufacturing defect. 2. Dynamic Fuel Management (DFM) & Valve Lifter Failures The Issue: The L87 engine features GM's Dynamic Fuel Management (DFM) system, which selectively deactivates individual cylinders to save fuel. The special collapsible hydraulic valve lifters associated with DFM are prone to sticking, bending, or collapsing. Symptoms: Loud ticking or knocking noise from the valvetrain ("lifter tick"), engine misfires, rough idle, severe power loss, and Check Engine Light (CEL) illumination. If a lifter bends or fails completely, it can damage the camshaft, necessitating a top-end tear down or full engine replacement. Prevalence: This issue affected many 2019–2023 models, prompting GM to issue technical service bulletins (TSBs) and updated lifter designs. 3. Valve Spring Breakage The Issue: A batch of weak or improperly heat-treated valve springs in earlier L87 production runs caused sudden valve spring fractures. Symptoms: Misfires, metallic clattering, drop in compression, and potential engine destruction if a broken valve drops into the cylinder. 4. High Oil Consumption The Issue: Some owners report elevated oil consumption between routine service intervals. Contributing Factors: DFM cylinder deactivation can draw small amounts of oil past piston rings during low-load operation. Owners are encouraged to check oil dipstick levels regularly, as low oil accelerates main bearing and lifter wear. Summary for 2026 Model Year Buyers If you are considering a 2026 Sierra 1500 Denali, GM implemented revised manufacturing processes and updated internal components to resolve the 2021–2024 crankshaft/connecting rod manufacturing defects. However, as with all high-displacement, pushrod V8s utilizing active fuel management systems, routine oil maintenance and monitoring are essential.

For rallies. I have recently discovered someone trying to maintain at RV LIFE Community / fiberglassrv.com, or simply Google "rvlife rally map" and find the current year's listening. 2027 rallies: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/threads/2027-rally-map.2181770/ Google Maps directly for 2027: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?mid=1I8mtXQU3Pky2XBNV9VoyNyjY9i-XWPw&ll=42.650591549794484%2C-101.6669803122351&z=4 I've recently attended, or will be attending, these fiberglass rallies: Falling for Fiberglass: https://www.facebook.com/groups/fallingforfiberglass Thanksgiving in the woods: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1249062990470466 Eggs on the Hiawassee: https://www.facebook.com/groups/eggsonthehiawassee/ Spirit of the Suwannee: not sure of site yet. All great rallies. If the weather is cool enough, the boondocking/overflow at Hiawassee is not bad, but again, weather dependent. Some time people double up on sites too if site renters allow it. This end of year is pretty full for me for rallies, but more to come. Next year we're likely leaving Hiawassee a day early to head up to the Maine Oliver mini rally in Boothbay. Richard is the organizer, PM me if you want his contact info.