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Impressive! Thanks for sharing.

It's getting up into the high 80' here this week. We're going for a one week trip next week so I'll be testing things out. The big trip this summer starts out with a week in Cade's Cove, TN, where there are no hookups. This will be the real test of running the Chill Cube off the inverter. I'll be doing some test runs at home this week to see how long the ac can run on the (640 ah) batteries. With the unit on 50% (gear mode) and low cool its seems to be near 250 watts!

Thanks Don, excellent feedback!

@OffWeGo, I reviewed the sketches you provided for the Front Storage Basket and offer the following comments: Placing the unit in front of the dog house will move you 26" away from the cover on the doghouse. This will likely make removal of the doghouse cover difficult, if not impossible for one person when propane tanks must be refilled. To remove the doghouse cover on my 2022 LEII I straddle the tongue of the trailer and am able to reach the handles on both sides to lift it. Some clearance space will be needed between the front of the doghouse and the rear of the storage unit for clearance of the doghouse cover when dis-mounting and mounting. If the top of the storage unit is hinged at the rear, space will be needed to avoid hitting the top of the doghouse. No details are included to show how the storage unit is to be mounted. The indicated mounting positon places the storage unit on top of the fiberglass covering the trailer tongue. The fiberglass would need to be drilled for passage of mounting bolts. You would likely need spacers to keep the storage unit from resting on the fiberglass and potentially cracking it. You would need to tap into the aluminum frame members or use long "U" shaped bolts to secure the storage unit to the frame. As I recall, Oliver uses long "U'" bolt to secure the front storage tray they offer as an option. The storage unit design has a lot of doors (2 side, 1 front, 1 top). This presents a challenge for the frame of the unit to have sufficient rigidity to support the doors. To have sufficient rigidity you may have little choice but to have a square tube inner frame. Having the tubing presents an obstacle to installing and removing the generator, as you have noted. Also, securing all of the door to prevent theft will be a challenge. The top will need a gas cylinder or other support to hold it open, I had an outdoor grill stand fabricated from stainless steel to support a 200 lb grill. My initial design used square tubing to be clad with stainless steel sheeting. I took the design to an experienced fabricator, who recommended eliminating the square tube frame and building the stand using stainless sheet only. This change produced a much better result. There are storage areas on each side of the grill and they have stainless steel doors. The unit is quite stiff and strong. If you are interested I can provide photos of the details. How is the removable shelf to be supported? "L" shaped brackets mounted to the inside of the unit could work. The mounting method could be either bolting or welding. Your sketch lists routing of the power cable from the generator to the shore power connection on the street side of the doghouse. You might consider attaching a weathertight electrical box containing a 15 or 20 amp outlet on the exterior of the storage unit, with a short cable running through the wall into the generator. I suggest making a short cable that would connect from the weathertight box outlet to the shore power inlet. How accessible are the pull starter, choke and controls on the generator when in the storage unit? I have used small Honda generators before and they are usually relatively easy to start, but I never tried starting one in a confining box. I suggest you reconsider having the generator mounted in a storage unit on the trailer tongue, for several reasons: Mounting the generator to the trailer frame will likely transmit vibrations along the frame which will be noticeable in the cabin. The same concern for noise. Having the generator exhaust so close to the cabin presents a danger of infiltration of carbon monoxide into the cabin. Overheating is likely to be a problem running inside the storage unit, even with all of the openings. Additional tongue weight may become an issue. I don't know the tongue weight limit for your Tundra. The generator, storage unit and chocks could add 60-75 pounds. I try to locate our generator as far as possible from the trailer, considering neighbors, wind direction, etc. I use a 25 foot propane hose to connect our generator to the low pressure propane connections on the front and rear of the trailer. I elected not to install any type of cargo carrier on the trailer tongue, primarily to keep the tongue weight within the limits of our tow vehicle, a BMW X5 35d (diesel). I did not like the cargo tray offered by Oliver- too small to meet our storage needs and too difficult to secure. Instead, I installed a rear mounted cargo carrier. The generator, a grill, chocks and Starlink case are accommodated. You can find a write-up on the details here: How To Install a Rear Cargo Carrier on an Oliver Legacy Elite II. Good luck with your project! Regards, Don

Had an issue with our pump (2018 LE2) just a few days ago. Thought it would likely be one of the switches. These are (effectively) double throw-single pole switches (there are 3 unused connectors so switches are technically double throw-double pole) in cabin and bath with 2 traveler wires with +12 v in the middle spade connector, so if one combination of switch orientation between the cabin and bath didn’t work the other should of it’s a traveler spade connector disconnecting. I first looked visually at the 15 amp fuse under the dinette and it looked ok. Next morning I tried the different water pump switch combos between cabin and bath to no avail. The switch leds were off all this time. I then pulled the fuse to check for continuity on my multi-meter and it checked out ok. When reinstalling the fuse I heard the pump actuate and the led flickered a few times before turning solid. I think the issue was likely the pressure switch. There are 2 red leads at the front of the pump and I think these are are on opposite poles of the pressure switch and the switch had gotten stuck. The ground wire connection seemed ok so I am convinced it was not the switch spade connectors being loose. Anyway I would have never thought pulling and reinstalling a fuse would remedy the issue. The switches must have been in the on combination for this to happen. Not sure how the leds are wired as they should be lit in either state of the pressure switch (connected/disconnected).

Not if they had the bathroom drain valve closed.

Thanks, Bill & Martha What Mike explained in the first paragraph of this post is he was pumping water into the black tank, as part of a cleaning process. He got distracted and left the water running. In this case the toilet bowl dump valve was closed. So the water could not go up into the bowl. The pressure from the hose after filling the tank to capacity, would then push the water up to that vent junction and into the gray waste system. This is an abnormal use-case where this occurred. Operator error, and hose pressure forced the overflow. Normally, this would not occur when operating the Oliver waste systems as designed.

@jd1923 It hasn’t happened to me but it has happened to at least 3 people in the following thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3447-left-black-tank-clean-out-hose-on/

I'm having trouble seeing how this could occur. But given this "has occurred" in your experience, please elaborate. Wouldn't the toilet bowl overflow first? We had our black tank once right up to the top, tank full and up the neck, 1-2" below the bowl. Had to stop using it until we towed miles to dump tanks. There was no black waste in the gray water. We also had the grey fill once to where it came up on the shower floor. In this case, we dumped some gray while boondocking since this is legal in in the SW National Forest lands when 500 feet from others and water sources. In neither case did waste of one kind go up the vent and into the other. I'm failing to see the physics that would cause water to get up to knee height which I believe is the approximate height of the sewer gas vent junction. Let us know. Thanks

Cross-over of water from the black tank into the gray tank through the common vent absolutely can and has occurred. More than one owner has attached a black tank flush hose, turned it on and forgotten about it. When the black tank fills water rises up the black vent and spills over into the gray vent. If the shower drain valve is closed the water comes up through the shower drain. If the shower drain valve is open the gray tank fills and then the water comes up through the shower drain.

Yes, as Mike explained and as John wrote nicely in two short sentences. Perhaps you did not see bubbles in the gray waste since there was enough gray water to break down the soap, kill the bubbles, which did not occur in your black waste. For a fact, black and gray waste are two independent systems, except for the venting of sewer gases as @Townesw illustrated above. However, the vents are at a height, a couple of feet taller, where the cross-over of liquids simply could not occur. Gray water would fill the shower floor and overflow into the cabin well before the height of these vents could be reached.

Both sinks and shower drain are plumbed to the gray tank. The toilet drains into the black tank only.

In my trailer, yes, I am sure. Input to the black tank is from the toilet on top. There is also a vent opening that is on the right side of the black tank. Except for the dump opening, that’s it. In my trailer, the bath sink drains down and goes under the shower, joining with the shower drain to empty into the gray tank. I had an issue once where the bathroom drain pipe unattached itself from the gray tank causing gray water to flow the length of the trailer and out by the back bumper. I epoxied the drain pipe back onto the gray tank and problem solved. Your black tank is 15 gallons, gray is 30ish. That may have had some effect on your bubble test. I’ve spent plenty of time under the bathroom sink doing work and (in my trailer) there is no connection between the sink and the black tank. Someone will point out that there is a shared vent connection, but I don’t think that’s what we’re talking about here. Mike

Are you sure the bathroom sink goes to the gray? I put soapy cleaner in the toilet, and down the bathroom sink. Black drained bubbles, but the gray did not. That caused me to wonder if the bathroom sink does in fact go to the black.

If your batteries are very low your Xantrex is likely attempting to apply full power to charge your batteries thereby exceeding the power available from your shore power source. It may have worked just fine previously if your batteries had a better state of charge, requiring less demand on your source, but with really low state of charge more demand is required of the source. Decrease or turn off your Zantrex’s max charge current setting or plug into a higher power source. In addition, as others have said, make sure your source is wired correctly and test for faults.

In case anyone wants a nice little guide on how to do these adjustments with the Girard awning. Not our exact model but still works the same.

Yes, our new garage has only GFCI protected outlets. We are able to plug our Oliver into them during storage by changing the Xantrex settings (specifically #28 to 15 or less) and it does not trip the GFCI. I think the OP has a bad adapter or faulty GFCI. He also needs to manage his loads in the Oliver before plugging into that 15A circuit via the Xantrex settings.

Again, the first thing I would do is connect to a non-GFCI outlet. 30A outlets at campgrounds are not GFCI. I've heard new homes have nothing but GCFI circuits in the garage. What a pain! Our 1980 built home only has one GFCI breaker that feeds the outlets in three bathrooms. I wire outlets in the garage wherever I need one. Add a new breaker and run new wire. You could use a 10 AWG extension cord to reach a non-GFCI outlet for testing purposes. This first post below was started by @John E Davies. Check page 2 for the jack service I performed. I believe I'm the only one who has performed a full service where I disassembled the head, degreased all parts, and got new grease UNDER the gears. Your hull is 5 years old, so it's a good time. Do NOT follow the maintenance video shown in Oliver University! Do you know the saying, "**** on a bull?" It's better to leave it alone than to work this procedure! The second post is where I rebuilt the rear jacks which shows lubricating the full 18" lift gear.

GFCI's fail frequently. You need to find another place to plug in. As mentioned previously get a 30 amp (120/single phase) installed in your barn.

Btw: How do you lubricate the front hydraulic lift? I probably should look at the manual.

John, I do use a voltage checker on shore power. I’m not sure I have the ones you are showing. I’m not near it right now. It is yellow though. I am plugging into a power plug in my barn where I store the camper. It is a 15 amp circuit. Don’t you think that if I have opened all the campers circuit breakers, that it must be a problem before the camper? The electric cord or the piece you plug that into to use house current?

John, I did check the shore power. However, when I opened all the circuit breakers in my Oliver, the shore EFCi still tripped. So, that should indicate that the electric power cord itself is bad, or the adapter that you attach to it to plug in a normal plug is bad. After disconnecting the power cord to the camper and just plugging in the adapter and the clean power checker I had, the shore circuit still tripped. So, I’m suspecting, and hoping it is just the plug adapter that is bad, not any circuit of the camper itself. What do you think?

I'm late to the party, but just reading this real quick it sounds like the GFIC outlet is tripping. This has nothing to do with over current, it's completely different than a overcurrent device such as a circuit breaker or fuse. Rather it detects an imbalance in the circuit. So if either the hot side or neutral side of the circuit has a path to ground, it sees an imbalance and trips the GFIC. This imbalance can be as low as 4 milli amps, so even a little moisture is enough to trip it. You should be looking for any dampness on your main power cord and where it plugs into the outlet or trailer. Look for cuts in the cord, not ones that are a direct short, but ones that can use current leakage to ground. Someone suggested that you turn off each breaker in the trailer, I assume you did that and eliminated any trailer issues. I seem to recall writing something about GFIC's in the past, perhaps JD could find it. Good luck, Geoff

The black one is a Progressive 30-amp tester. Never rely on any shore power without testing it.

It appears you are plugging into a 15A GFCI outlet in your barn, and this outlet blows. If so, this has nothing to do with the Oliver except that it is pulling more than 15A. @Steph and Dud B mentioned this above. A 15A household circuit may not be enough to handle the load internal to the Oliver. Also, don't ever use a GFCI outlet as a source for shore power as they are designed to blow in milliseconds. Throw ALL the 120VAC breakers in your Oliver panel under the dinette seat. Connect shore power to another household circuit. Not a GFCI outlet and if you have a 20A circuit choose that over a 15A. Many of us have installed proper 30A outlets where we park our Olivers. Something to think about, relatively simple to install or hire an electrician. After connected to a proper circuit. Turn on your 30A main breaker and then one at a time turn ON and OFF each other breaker. When ON see if the named appliance is working that is connected to that breaker. I don't know enough about GFCI outlets, but I'll bet @Snackchaser does! Hopefully, Geoff will chime in. Using a GFCI outlet as a shore power connection could be your sole issue.