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The #1 Ollie Tool I purchased was the Lock-N-Lube lock on grease gun fixture. It is amazing and certainly helps. I had a new ole style grease gun and just added the below to it. Love it. With it I did not need to go right angle. I liked the 45 degree ones better. Especially with the below. When I need to replace my grease gun, I'll pay the bucks for the Lock-N-Lube version for sure JPR

Love your install! You should add Z-brackets on both ends to replace the blocks and then your full-size seat cushions are good as-is! Keep us posted. I take an acoustic guitar on our longer trips and that alone is not so easy. Have a high-end travel case which helps. It lays on the bed when towing. When we sleep it’s standing up at the entrance, or on the back seat of the truck, weather depending. In the bed is a strong folding chair to play anywhere comfortably! 😎

My banjo fits nicely under the bed overhang on every trip… Mike

The power grease gun sits nearby on the ground, has a long hose with the lock-n-lube on end. Just attach, hit the power button for a few seconds. Used a manual gun for 40 years, always fighting it!

You've inspired me. The drum set's going in! Just gotta get this bass drum through the door... 😁

if you’re a serious musician you’ll know my dilemma; ya can’t leave it at home. This is a Doepfer stage piano I used before I got my grand. Weighs a ton and is bulletproof with reasonably weighted keys and has a decent action. I’ve been sweating whether this could work but thankfully it will! Being able to fit a keyboard was a selection criteria. I think neither Escape nor Bigfoot would comfortably accommodate it and Oliver was a maybe or “I hope” Yes it looks silly but OH WELL, your instrument is the girlfriend you can’t ignore Those are Anderson blocks and actually work perfectly. Having it there is pretty fine, that side is awkward anyhow because of the sloping wall, this provides an arm rest so if you don’t have a big butt it works. And best of all the table fits on top so no fooling around setting up. I just need custom cushions and most importantly a good chair that stows. The seat has to be good or it’s too hard to play Anyhow interested in ideas if ya got ‘em

Thanks! I do have a shop here that has been doing the bearings so I’ll talk to them first.

Yes a four inch drop on a two inch hitch and an adapter to go from 2” to 3”. I sometimes think the trailer looks slightly nose high but a level on the a frame indicates it is dead level.

I use the 90° Lock n lube grease gun with that attachment. It makes those awkward fittings much easier to lube. John

We use a WeighSafe 3” aluminum drop hitch on our 3500. Nice hitch. (We don't have a WDH but our dually isn't comparable for that part of this discussion.)

I’ve got a fancy German manual gun with a locking head that I like but that’s the problem, can’t get it in there. Ordered those 45s, hope that works. Also I found a local trailer suspension shop that’s been here for decades so should be good. I’ll order the Alcans before too long and do it locally. Probably going with four unless they manage to convince me otherwise 😅 Still feeling it out and need to find the time to read the other half of this thread

I did the work myself, so I can tell you, it's rather straightforward. I promise you, and your wife, there's nothing special here, no need for specific Oliver experience since any tandem-axle trailer would take the same installation. Find a local trailer shop with good reviews. Find one that is a Dexter shop and they may give you better pricing on the axles. It's good to have a local trailer shop you have frequented, who you can call on again when needed (e.g. replace the Nev-R Lube bearings in 5 years). Alcan will always be too far away for hands-on help. They make great springs though! Order Alcan springs shipped directly to you. There has been some question on the quality of their wet-bolts in recent Forum threads. I would certainly replace ALL parts, including the EZ Flex, given your 5-year-old trailer. You could buy a new EZ Flex kit with or without the wet bolts. I went with all the Alcan parts, leaf springs, U-bolts, shackles and wet-bolts (they're fine), and also ordered two (2) of each of these parts for the centers (yes, ALL new parts): https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension-Parts/Dexter/013-144-03.html https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension-Parts/TruRyde/TRFA73Z916DLNZ.html You have the right idea! You'll feel much better leaving home READY for your cross-country trip! I always get my work done at home. My sole purpose for camping in our Oliver is to go somewhere, just anywhere, forcing me NOT to work. You won't find me under our trailer on some gravel lot! 😎

Thanks. My 250 has the 11000 gvwr package, so the rear axle and springs are the same as the f350. It’s a 350 with the GVWR of a 250, so it doesn’t fall into commercial vehicle territory. what size drop did you go with? 4 inch?

We pull our LE II on the ball with our ‘22 F250 tremor 6.7 and have been very satisfied including during a few very windy trips out west. We used an equalizer with a previous TV and Airstream. We were very happy to leave the WDH behind. There are a few other SD tremor owners on the forum, some have a F350 and I think they all tow wo a WDH. And congrats on the Tremor.

Hey folks, I am thinking about replacing the axles and springs on my 2021 LE2. I just got an estimate of $3,600 from Alcan Springs in Grand Junction, CO to do 5 leaf Alcan springs and the nev-r-lube 5,200 LB dexter axles. They have done this work on A LOT of Olivers. I live in Florida and a local trailer company can do this work as well, but my wife is leaning heavily toward Alcan Springs doing the work due to their experience with Olivers. We will be in Colorado in October so we could get the work done then, but I'd prefer to have it done in Florida so we have the new equipment in place before our summer trip. The job seems straightforward to me so it seems like any competent company should be able to do the work. I'd appreciate input from anyone who has an informed opinion about the choice of having the work done here in Florida or in Colorado. Thanks!! Bob Frank

Yes, you could. I just wanted the security of the larger ball. The referenced model is the direct replacement! It’s critical to line up/drill the bolt holes accurately, but that’s it. Chapter 11 surprising, but they did put 7K labels on one or more 5K couplers. One failed on an Oliver. Maybe the lawyers got them, too bad.

Replace your wet-bolt grease fitting with 45s. Yours are likely M6x1mm threads (Alcan 1/4"-20): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R8GYYYM/?th=1 Then do yourself a BIG favor and invest in a power grease gun and a LockNLube coupler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU/?th=1

Is this a direct replacement for the 2” bulldog coupler? Just take off the old and replace with the new one? Couldn’t I use a drop hitch with a 3” shank and a 2 “ ball on the existing bulldog coupler Apparently they are in chapter 11 right now, and the product is unavailable

Ditch the Andersen and all 2" hitch hardware. Replace the old with a 2 5/16" Bulldog coupler and use whatever you need on the tow vehicle to get a 2 5/16" ball at the correct height. I installed this product: https://www.bulldogproducts.net/product/028462_square-rectangular-mount-coupler

Nice truck! We still have a WDH, but the WDH has been stored since we purchased a F-350. We can just fit the Super Duty in our garage, but it's a tight fit. About 23" top of the ball measurement is where I start with the F-350 before placing Ollie on the ball. When placed on the ball Ollie is a little nose high at 480 to 500lbs tongue weight, very little sag with Ollie placed on the ball.

Hopefully only the latter. The BMS should be efficient, but movement of high amperage causes heat within its design. When I removed our battery tray, it gave our batteries a lot more headroom. How much clearance do you have above your batteries? Don't leave that door open too long, or those expensive items may walk! I have ours locked down double and only open the door to remove ground when doing an electrical mod.

Thank you for sharing local knowledge and your useful links. I hope to make it out there this year or next!

I towed 5 years with the Andersen, 5 years without. I don’t miss the Andersen at all. If I remember correctly, 19.5” is what the top of the ball should be, you won’t get much drop from the weight of the trailer on your F250. I had to get a drop hitch for my 2500. Mike

You are on the right track in attacking the bolt head end. Certainly the approach in your above quote will work. But the Hex Nut Capture Washer would look and perform better. And they are dirt cheap. See my DIY. DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

Fair point, retract the 1750s from what I said, except perhaps for people who lightly use their trailer It was a reasonable starting point but charging now comes with risk aversion to change probably. Maybe they’ll do it sometime as an update. 2027 looks like they’ll be adding a DC-DC converter, it’s already labeled in on the electrical panel. I don’t need it but useful for ICE TVs 3k miles and I’m hearing the suspension squeak now, doing my first grease. What a pain, getting a right angle grease gun fitting