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There is another valve configuration for winterizing through the boondock inlet. The diagram is pasted under the curbside bed plate. It is not in the 2023 manual even though it says it is.

I aired out the Ollie overnight and the alarm is off and that pretty little green light is bright and shiny.

I wanted to alert you guys that when you winterize the antifreeze might set of your CO2 alarm. We never had it happen before but we sure did yesterday. I reset it a bunch of times and kept scratching my head. Cindy found something via the Google about it. The antifreeze has alcohol in it and can set off the alarm. I just found these other little tidbits about RV Antifreeze - Drying Rubber Seals: Repeated long-term exposure to high-concentration ethanol can dry out or degrade rubber O-rings, pump diaphragms, and toilet blade seals over time. Taste & Odor: Ethanol leaves a distinct alcohol smell and can impart a persistent chemical taste to PEX lines and vinyl hoses that takes extensive flushing to remove in the spring. Flammability: Because of the grain alcohol content, some low-cost ethanol-blend antifreezes are potentially flammable in concentrated liquid or vapor forms when exposed to an open flame.

I’m pretty sure there was a change on the city water, fresh water and the boondocking inlet ports around 2024 or 2025 I do not remember the details and I am not a subject matter expert

I have been to several COE sites - always top notch. Glad to hear the trend continues.

The Apex is powered by 48V system and was designed to add 1-2 solar awnings. You could ask OTT for a schematic showing your electrical system (with integration of the awning panels). The solar charger (SC) you install should have 48V output but for some reason OTT advertises the 400W rooftop solar on the Apex is 24V. New panels must be on an independent SC. I would trace everything down and create your own system drawing. In our older hull, I had to pull every wire to fully learn the system (not good when under warranty)! 🤣 In the Elite we have 12VDC and 120VAC systems. The Apex has 48VDC and 120VAC systems and it must have a 48|12 DC-DC converter. The 48V system must be stepped down to 12V to run lights and other 12V accessories. You should locate this step-down converter for general purposes. I would start at the batteries. See how many wires are connected there, follow them into the hull to see where they are connected and where is your main fuse. A new solar charger must connect to +/- battery somewhere. The other active Apex thread shows many pictures and some show unused terminals labeled "battery." I would encourage you in that adding our Solar Suitcase was the easiest major electrical upgrade I've made to our Oliver. I've attached my upgrade link here for example. Of course, you have a 48V system so system components may differ but the basics are the same. Re Starlink, there are some complex installations and some who just plug it into an outlet and lay it on the ground! 🤣 From the HOME page of the Forum, search for "Starlink" for many discussions.

#1218 near Elijay Georgia at COE Doll Mountain Campground put this one on your list as it is fantastic It’s a 13 on a scale 1-10 We missed the Rally due to Spousal units part time beach gig schedule. She was making F250 $$$ 😎 Headed to the Smokey mountains

Yeah John, thank you. She’s pretty again and our 11-year-old Oliver is also more capable than ever! 😎 Not a chance we would trade our newly upgraded and restored Oliver for a brand NEW 2027 Apex or Elite. We are better optioned than either new model. It would be less dependable without going through everything again, and way too much trouble to do so.

@Brian H. Reading this attachment is your is your homework assignment and after completing this task, you should be a SME or Subject Matter Expert on 2025 Oliver LE2 plumbing.😉 Mossey OTT_2025_Elite_II_Owners_Manual-compressed.pdf

The NEC, and maybe others, require a service disconnect for appliance maintenance. A plug is the cheapest way to provide a disconnect for service. GJ

Thanks, but I was not providing any comments about all the changes. Your input on some of them is spot on though. I would not swap my Ollie for a 9 year used Apex. Just way too many systems that a "normal" person could ever maintain. Violates my KISS and easily maintainable preferences. OH, and that brand new looking trailer someone parked at your home can't possibly be the same one that was the chalked-out one I saw before. LOL. Basically saying WOW the ceramic coating makes your 2017 look better than new! GJ

@Wayfinder Chris, are those panhead screws used to mount the return air vent grill for the heater? I would be on my 3rd box of band-aids if that was my Ollie! Mossey

You might also want to consider throwing in a 2 to 3 foot section of pex - just in case. Bill

Dennis, I made our own Towel Rack from you plans and I really must THANK YOU for GREAT detailed instructions. My wife and I just returned from the 2026 Oliver Rally in Lake Gunther and we had many people ask about our drying rack. I made sure to let them know that I pulled it from the OTT Forum. I only made one modification... I shortened your original design enough to store it under our Twin Bed (see attached). Thanks again for posting your plans.

Nope, didn't go with the solar awning. Hoping to use a 400w folder for supplemental. The external plug isn't necessary --- just need a way to route back to the EcoFlow for a folding panel. Is there any sort of external cable routing at all? Nothing for starlink or similar? If not that seems like a pretty fundamental design flaw.

@larcat @Sentry62 Congrats on your delivery date!!!! We asked Oliver about the external folding solar panel connection which is on the 2027 Elite II and were told it was deleted on the Apex X23 since it had the 48V system. There were 3 Apex's next to each other at the rally and Patrick Industries came to our Apex to go over some of the features of the system and answer any questions that each owner had. On the way home from the rally we cracker docked 2 nights and one night at an RV Overnights Host. We did not get the solar awning, not for certain how many opportunities we would have to use the awning. Did you opt for the solar awning?

I spent a LOT of time at the showroom looking at the APEX. There are a few things I liked, but honestly the #1 item keeping me away was the 48-volt Eco flow system. I did some research once I got home and it appears to be quality product. My issue was that the AC runs through the system full time - if you need AC cooling the EF system must be working: the AC running through the inverters. We all use our Olivers differently and times and needs can change - from boondocking to a ritzy RV park in AZ. Long term I could see an extended time in a hot area of the country; I would want my AC running off 120-volt shore power. That and the fact it is a system that is not component driven - but rather a closed system. But that's not my specialty - so I leave it here. I really like the slam latches over the standard ones in an EII. The axles and Alcan leaf springs are another improvement - one that honestly should be standard on all the EII's - that topic for another day. And yeah, the black high Lites appealed to me - call me strange.... The tires - make no sense to me - but what do I know. The solar awnings were also a no go for me. However - I can see as an off the beaten track boondocking rig it makes sense. I preferred the EII with appropriate solar system.

Thanks, JD. This is the best description of the smart alternator that I have found. https://www.thefastreligion.com/mr-smart-alternator-function What I have seen on a couple of other forums (https://www.pathfindertalk.com/threads/disabling-vvcs-voltage-variable-control-system.45074/) is that some choose to disable the variable voltage control system and make the alternator act like they always have and just pump 13.4 V to the battery 100% of the time. I will definitely have the alternator looked at. There might be something going on there. Thanks for your thoughts.

Yes Bob, this voltage is very low! An automotive LA battery after sitting overnight or sitting for a few days should read 12.5V minimum and more like 12.6V with a newer battery. When towing or at highway speeds, voltage across the battery with the alternator running should produce 13.6V min and more often 13.8V to a max 14.2V. The term Smart battery bothers me unless it's smart enough to know you have the DC-DC charger attached. Check a Nissan truck forum, search for "alternator" or "towing." If you have been DC-DC charging adequately for some time and now nothing, you could have blown something in the Nissan alternator. Perhaps it did not have +50A available. Your DC-DC charger installation is likely fine. Instead of "inverter service" test your alternator or take it to an electrical shop that rebuilds alternators and starters, Before I installed our Orion 50A charger, I installed a HD alternator rated at 50A greater capacity. Let us know. Best wishes, JD

So we have had a DC to DC charging system on our LE I for a year now. It worked very well, but has become inconsistent and unreliable. The system was installed by a local inverter service center with a solid reputation. They actually are the supplier for some parts, such as solar panels, to Oliver. The tow vehicle is a 2024 Pathfinder with a "smart" alternator. The charger is a Victron Orion 50 amp. Using the Victron app I can see that the voltage on the input side of the charger is sitting between 12.2 and 12.4 volts. Aside from a brief spike on start up to 14.4 or so, it remains there. When driving the voltage remains that low and occasionally jumps to 14.4 or so and occasionally that casues the bulk charging to start. But this lasts only for a short time (seconds) and the voltage drops, and the charging stops. Bottom line is that the batteries are not being charged. The inverter service center has worked with me to make sure all of the parameters are correct, but there is still something wonky that we can't figure out. Out of curiosity I had the tow vehicle battery tested by a couple of battery shops and all looks good there. 12.2-12.4 seems very low for the output from the TV battery. In fact, the Victron parameters require 13.3 volts (default) and we have dialed that down to 12. 9. Any thoughts as to why the voltage from the tow vehicle would be that low? Also, does anyone know a DC to DC charging resource/expert that I could connect with to trouble shoot this? Thanks, Bob

@Wayfinder Did you see any sensible way to route a pv into the ecoflow unit from outside? Thanks.

@Sentry62 @FirstApex We're picking ours up in December --- is there really no way to sensibly route the cord from a folding solar panel to the EvoFlow main unit? Feels like a bit of an oversight.

I agree with GJ on the points he made, except this one. A 48V 100 Ah battery translates to 400 Ah in 12V. There are 3 of us that have 900 Ah with our mods. This huge/heavy battery fills the bay without leaving room for another, you’re capped at 400 Ah. OTT has had issues with electric awnings retracting and/or not opening when they should. $5K is an expensive awning that may be in the direction of the sun occasionally. The advertised DC-DC charger is not viable (in any new Oliver product). IMHO, the best looking Oliver is the Elite by far! Painting unless powder coated is not good. Flat Black-out trim is a fad kids started 10-20 years ago. The Apex looks like a mod trailer created by a 20-something. AT tires do nothing for a trailer. They only add value to the TV on drive wheels. No additional traction, just more difficult to keep clean. The 48V Houghton is not an efficient variable-speed model and the black cover will make it run hot when sunny. I promise you, my old hull has far more upgrades for “standout improvements for serious boondockers! The ECOFLOW system is laden with proprietary cabling and connectors that cannot be sourced through normal channels like an RV store or trailer service center. Need to get your Ecoflow system repaired? You'll be on your own or head back to Hohenwald! Better have installed Victron! Blackout not for me. Chrome wheels are a must, with ribbed tires and a few satin gray touches on the grills, yeah! 😎

@Wayfinder Here’s another one for your map. The Rocky Mountain Fiberglass Rendezvous will be on August 2 - 6, 2027 at Camp Hale, near Leadville, CO. Below is the link to the website. I attended this summer and there were a couple of other Olivers there besides me. https://sites.google.com/site/rockymountaineggrendezvous/

Good thoughts for sure. I take them a step further. For the newer owners, when you hook up to the City water on-boarding port, your closed plumbing system comes up to the same standing pressure as the city system. This includes your pump, hot water heater, and all your piping to the bathroom, kitchen and outside . That pressure generally is much higher than the OTT pumped system, and can cause leaks. When not using this port, most leaks are slow drippers. But if your system is connected to this port, you can get a really serious leak. Especially if you some air in your plumbing, the high pressure City water and air in your system can cause severe water hammer. And that's when fittings get blown out. With a nod to JD's post above, when you have such a system breach, it will flow a lot of water into your hull. If you are not there, your trailer suspension and MEP systems are at extreme risk. Hence you really should be there when using this port. Unless my pump fails, my "Step Further" is that I don't use this port (except for winterizing at the end of season). Just not worth the risk. GJ