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… another idea, hard mount regular panels to the bed rails on the trick if you’re configured like that, and have that charge an Ecoflow. So top off the Ecoflow pro and use that to top off the house. That’s exactly what I do boondocking using the 220 kWh traction battery, minus the solar

Don’t need it myself since I drive electric, but if I wasn’t I still I doubt I’d do it. A lot of bother, have to be around so sticky fingers doesn’t walk off with it, and as @jd1923 sez it’s just more stuff, and big clumsy stuff too. Getting this rig pared down to the essentials has been a major project. I’d do this instead Try to optimize the roof solar charging opportunities if possible Possibly upgrade the house batteries (you have a recent vintage but don’t know what you’ve got on board) Most likely would be to instead get a backup source, it’s awfully handy to just charge off the truck one way or another Ecoflow Delta Pro has a TT-30 plug so you can top off the house batteries directly Or just get one of the 120V regular versions and find some creative uses of it My 2c … Sells how, do they have a web store? Not coming up with anything …

When Twist was in production I asked that the trailer be wired for a rear camera but I would supply and install my own camera. I decided that I would mount it in the spare tire cover. For security purposes this is a good place. However, for traveling down the road - not so much. The spray from wet roads makes this camera location virtually useless and even when its not raining it is difficult to use the camera in order to see beyond the vehicle that is directly behind me. Therefore, for driving, I now have another camera mounted in the usual high position (up near the marker lights) but still retain the lower camera too. If you decide to do as I did and mount a camera in the spare tire cover - PM me. The spare tire cover is NOT "in line" with the body nor the rear bumper. Because of this I needed to put a spacer in so as to compensate for the different angles. Bill

Bill - Wonderful job - both on the install and the writeup! Almost makes me wish that my original fan would give up the ghost. 😉 Bill

It actually looks very good in your pictures, so must look perfect from the ground. Job well done and an excellent detailed write-up! 😎 Too bad OTT doesn't make a small flat area for the bathroom fan in their fiberglass molds (inner and outer hulls). It would make for a better fit and make this job easier on all of us!

With the inside work complete I went back to the roof area, trimmed the oozed butyl, wiped with isopropyl alcohol again, and taped the area to be caulked off leaving about a quarter inch gap from the edge of the flange in the front and rear and about an 1/8 inch gap on the sides where the caulk would be the shortest. I applied the caulk 3 times, wiping it off the first two times, reapplying the tape and recaulking each time because I didn’t like the way it looked. I finally left it alone because I decided that if I kept messing with it I would keep screwing it up and I was starting to get hungry and it was close to supper time. This picture shows the fan after the oozed butyl was trimmed back. It shows the built-up butyl in front of and behind the fan to keep the flange straight. This next picture is after the ASI 335 was applied. Notice that the black seal is straight, not bowed down at the front and rear due to having the flange pulled down to touch the roof. The black seal must remain straight so that the cover will seal properly when closed. I applied the ASI 335 to the screws but didn’t like the way they looked so I wiped it off. I had applied ASI 335 to the screw holes and the screws were twisted in through between 1 and 3 layers of butyl so I figured they were sealed well enough. The caulk job wasn’t perfect but it looks good from the ground. The ripples are from my hand shaking after going through the process 2 times before finally accepting that it wasn’t going to be perfect. I actually like the stepped edge of the caulk versus a feathered edge because I think the feathered edge of caulk doesn’t hold up well after repeated washing, drying, and waxing. We’ve pulled the trailer through wind and rain for 1350 miles and it has remained closed and hasn’t leaked. It is much quieter than the original Ventline fan. ASI 0240 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/asi-0240/ ASI 335 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/?product_search=335 It looks like ASI has two versions of the 335. The stuff I used looked like this Good luck on your installation. Bill

I realized I did not take a picture of the installed Rear Porch Light in the daylight so I did that today. I kept the black rubber seal that OTT was removing since they were causing streaks with age. The rubber looks to be good quality, not like the rubber surround on the Furrion 30A receptacles that really streaked badly. If it streaks later I'll simply remove it then, but at this time I didn't want to mess with sealant. If I do add a rear camera, it would be for security purposes while camping vs. having eyes when backing up. I would not mount it rooftop where OTT did, but surface mount something below the OLIVER taillight and above the new Rear Porch Light. We usually have the TV down and the rear window shade closed, so it's not easy to look to the rear. Either way, it will be nice to have light back there when needed. Got my front light done today. Pictures coming soon! 😎

We have only the stock panels (360W on our model year) and lithium batteries. We spend 3 weeks at a time at beach campsites with full sun and have no shortage of power. I suppose if we had portable panels we could run the A/C more, but probably not worth it in our use case.

Yep, that's for an AC powered fridge.

I like what you did Bill, with the rubber and polypropylene spacers. For sure it's filing the angled slot that truly helps the friction and noise in the up down movement. You got yours smooth and straight! Noticing in your pics the step material is coming up in the corners which will soon break off with use. I did a similar job but also sanded down and ceramic coated the aluminum steps and added new 3M Safety Walk 4" Resistant Tape. Our steps still look very good almost 2 years later! 😎

Welcome Brian, looking forward to hearing more re your project(s)! Is it worth it? An extra 100W is a drop in the bucket, although aimed at the sun it is more efficient compared to each 100W on the roof. We added a Victron MPPT 30A SC and the 30-LB Renogy 400W suitcase. I've found almost 2 years later that we rarely use it and should have saved the upgrade $$$. Wish somebody told me this 2 years ago! We move around a bit. I now believe extra solar is for those who want to boondock in one place for a week or longer. And you have to chase the sun all day in moving panels. There is an Oliver owner who sells a machine that rotates the panel, but it's another thing to carry and it only holds one panel. The only guys I see running much solar are the ones that live in their campers, staying the 14-day limit on BLM lands. Since we move around a bit, sometimes just one overnight, most often we stay 3 nights and then "on the road again." In this use case the DC-2-DC charger is a much greater value. We can charge 200 Ah while towing a half day drive. 😎 Our 400W suitcase will not add 200Ah babysitting them all day on the sunniest of days! Here are my two related upgrade links:

We have the "portable" solar panel that Oliver sells, which is essentially the same one that's on the roof but includes a controller. We found it too bulky and heavy to bring along camping so we use it during the winter to maintain the batteries when the camper is covered and not being used. It's good to have a light weight panel to supplement the roof-top panels when camping in shaded areas.

My 2023 has the same outlet, and I think Tom is correct in that it is for AC power to the fridge. I used that outlet with a 12 ga extension cord to supply power to my exterior AC outlet under the folding table. I tapped into the fridge's 12V DC power for the cigarette outlet.

Interesting, but not interested. Oliver is simple, well designed for the space available. It is not full of gadgetry. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). I think I'm showing my age. SkyDream is just the opposite. The only thing they have in Common is they are made out of Fiberglass. Probably half the places I camp the deck would useless due to thing being in the way. Also in the Pacific North West (PNW) I would worry about leaks. Although when I saw the newest walk through video on the new LEII, I had reservations over the awning with the solar panels on top. It is great having that much extra charging power. I don't think the longevity of these flexible panels would come near the useful life span of the solid mounted roof top panels. Replacing the awning I'm sure would be very expensive. I have trouble getting the regular awning clean and dry in the PNW due to the 7-8 months of rain. When I do have the opportunity to roll out awning and clean and let it dry completely the Oliver and Awning ends up blocking the whole driveway. So it has to be a planned project. I do pack a small Stihl blower and a ladder so I try to blow off the pine needle/leaves/twigs off of the top before finally rolling it up for travel.

Great info! Thanks

We use 200w Renogy panels when dry camping or boon docking for more than 3 days in one place. See our article. External Solar Kit Details - Hull 505 We've found that it's helpful when the trailer is shaded by tree's and we want to keep things topped off for longer stays. CS

Morning, I know a lot (too much) has already been written on replacing the very very loud AC systems but I have just one simple(?) question. This relates to my very limited "extra" ceiling height room above my Oliver in my storage building. What are the two "best" low (no higher than existing Oliver installed) profile quiet AC to replace the current beast on my 2022 Oliver? Why? Thanks (FYI: From Wisconsin and we don't use AC here. However, just returned from the 100 degree SW and rethinking the topic.)

I believe that it's used for a certain model of refrigerator that used 110VAC. My '23 model has one as well. Oliver wanted to have an AC option available if they decided to change refrigerator types / brands. The end of the cord in my trailer feeds up to the back of the refrigerator but it isn't connected to anything (since I have a 12V refrigerator). It's basically an extension cord.

Morning When repairing/upgrading drawer slide/latch and basement access cover system I noticed the plug in the attached photo. I know several of the informed minds on the Forum can/will be able to simply answer my question in seconds. What is this electrical line's function and why the use of a plug in the basement? Thanks.

Picture below shows old Ventline fan removed and the roof area cleaned up. I used ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic scrapers. I cleaned up the edges of the original holes with a chamfer bit in a drill motor. The factory didn’t align the old vent with the hole very well and didn’t drill and chamfer the holes which resulted in chipped gelcoat. In this picture the pilot holes (1/16”) for MaxxFan Dome are located and drilled. I wanted the screws to be perpendicular to the MaxxFan mounting flange not the roof line so I tried to drill them at the correct angle to the surface of the roof. I did a lot of test fitting inside and out. The outside fan, the middle sleeve, and the interior trim ring must fit together well for this retrofit to work out right. I used a carpenter’s pencil and 2 rubber bands from of a bunch of broccoli to hold the sleeve in place while I got the pieces located just right. I did this before I marked the holes for the flange. New pilot holes are enlarged to 1/8 inch and chamfered Test fit the screws to make sure they are not too tight. If they are too tight you risk twisting the screw in two in the hole. If the test fit is too tight go up to 9/64 inch bit. I used a 1/16 inch drill for a pilot then enlarged with a 1/8 inch drill and finished with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. Be sure to use sharp bits and drill SLOW. I wanted the flange to be straight, not pulled down to fit the curved roof. I applied one layer of butyl all the way around the bottom of the flange. I then applied 2 short strips between about 10:00-2:00 and 4:00- 8:00. I again applied 2 even shorter strips between 10:30-1:30 and 4:30-7:30. I tried to build the butyl up in the places where the widest gaps would occur, that is the front and back of the fan. I wiped the mounting location with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry and filled the old and new screw holes with ASI 335 and set the fan in place using a couple of screws inserted through the flange and butyl for alignment. The black button on the handle goes toward the front of the trailer. Work the wires and splice connectors into the space between the hulls while inserting the fan assembly into the hole in the roof. Tighten each screw down a little at a time and try to keep from distorting the flange. I would tighten the screws and leave them for a while to let the butyl push out then I would tighten them a little more until I got the flange sitting like I wanted it to sit and then left the butyl to do what it wanted to for a while. While the butyl was oozing I went inside the trailer and placed the sleeve back in the hole and made sure the upper edge was against the bottom of the fan and the notch in the sleeve for the wire retainer was in place and using a pencil I marked a line around the sleeve where it exits the curved ceiling. I drew another line 3/8” below this line to account for the interior trim ring and cut the sleeve to this line using a pair of heavy shears and a razor knife and finished to fit with a sanding block. I attached the trim ring and tightened the screws enough to pull the ring up to conform to the curvature of the ceiling.

Ugh, no thanks, I’m retiring from having to work in an office building, why would I want to take one on the road?

Given the right time (sun) and place (security for the panels) then more is better. If you have the room and payload capacity to take the panels with you - then - why not? There is nothing to "hurt" and only more energy to gain. Bill

Hello all Hull #1633. Does anyone use a portable solar panel for a little extra charge power with a LE2 platinum package. The trailer has 400 watts of solar and i have a 100w Renogy suit case panel that i used with my old trailer. I already have the adapter to go from Renogy to Zamp. Is the extra 100W worth it and is there any problem with doing this? Thanks in advance.

Not sure about this one…. https://youtube.com/shorts/QOvTdqhmEgk?si=yu9p2qfs7fkid0ch

Finally got around to fixing the problems that I identified in my original post almost 2 years ago. I used a small drum sander on a cordless drill motor to make a cutout for the part of the accumulator that was rubbing. This also quieted a vibration heard during pump operation While I had the drum sander out I enlarged the cutouts above both rear jack manual operation studs so that I can now get the manual crank on them if needed I placed a couple of spare bolt protectors on some 1/2 inch nuts and threaded them on the exposed bolt ends where they contacted the heater duct I know that these are really simple fixes but they might help someone that doesn’t know that the problems even exist. Bill