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Reset 2.0 has started squeeking when backing up
DunnYet replied to DunnYet's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Not related to the original problem, just posting to show that the universe has a sense of humor… After spinning, feeling, inspecting, and pretty much giving a spa treatment to the rear curbside tire, today on our final leg home in the middle of nowhere Texas between Quanah and Chillicothe my TPMS on the dashboard alerted to a low (you guessed it) rear curbside tire. Limped to the only gas station in Chillicothe and found a screw just outside the tread area. On returning home I took the tire to Discount Tire and confirmed my suspicion that it could not be patched. At least I proved that I (1) have a working TPMS and (2) have the tools to do a tire change in the field. 🤦♂️ -
The Suburban is longer than the aquago and has styrofoam insulation around it. So from the outside instead of the truma cover with vents you would have a metal cover that hinges at the bottom. Under the curb side bunk is where you will notice the difference. Not really a problem but there is less room to fiddle around when you throw the bypass switch. Oliver did ours years ago so they would certainly be capable. If it's a long drive to Hohenwald I think almost any RV service shop would be able to do it. Good Luck.
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Well it might indeed but given the smaller size of the Fogatti I would venture to guess it would fit. If you can fit a Suburban it should be a piece of cake for the Fogatti. The interesting and neat thing about the Fogatti is you select your temp, what ever you're comfortable with for showers or dishes and do NOT mix with cold water, using the hot only. Its very easy to go from one temp to another with the remote control. Also @Mike and Carol do make a good point regarding reliability in the boonies.
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You said the jacks work. Jacks are fed from load side of the DC panel 60 amp breaker, so it's fine. The DC fuse panel then feeds a number of things such as the stereo, pump, furnace, refer, ect., and the main switch panel. You mentioned the lights don't work, but the awning and camera do. I have not verified this, but it would make sense that the master switch on the main switch panel only controls the lights including the outside, inside, and closet. That's to avoid battery drain if you left a light on. You wouldn't want the camera or awning to be turned off by the master switch, so it's the primary suspect. My master switch failed and I had to jiggle and flick it a few times to get the lights on. Turned out to be a loose spade connector on the back of the switch. Best to pop the switch out and check it now to avoid an unwanted black out. Hope that solves the problem. Geoff
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Very compelling reply. 👍
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The "Master Light" switch and all the others except "Curb Awning" and "Rear Camera" would not turn. So no lights anywhere. It remained that way for 7 hours. Just now it cured itself and all is working! What the heck just happened? Will happen again? Signed, Confused.
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The "Master Light" switch and all the others except "Curb Awning" and "Rear Camera" would not turn. So no lights anywhere. It remained that way for 7 hours. Just now it cured itself and all is working! What the heck just happened? Will happen again? Signed, Confused.
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Spare Tire wobbles inside the fiberglass cover
Townesw replied to Dirt Duff's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Mine wasn’t wobbly. It was very secure. Always has been tight. I just didn’t like the stain that the tire was leaving on the gelcoat. @Dirt Duffyou’ve got something else going on. You need to determine what is loose. -
The Suburban tank is simple and reliable. There is nothing about it that can’t be serviced by the owner. Parts are available on Amazon and most RV shops. I’m not going to change ours out, I like reliability when out in the middle of nowhere. Mike
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Thanks, Rob. I will take a look at the Fogatti. I am open to all options. Also, we have an LE I so that may create different space limitations from the LE II. Bob
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@Olive2Roam No experience with the Aqua Go but as John stated about a month or so ago I did install the Fogatti WH. In short it works great, very quiet and has an awesome control system via a wired remote. It is much smaller, and much lighter than the older Suburban WH (empty) and you are not carrying around another 50 lbs of water while traveling albeit chump change in weight compared to everything else. Understand other than using it to make sure everything works I haven't been out on a trip this year at all due to knee replacement surgery 4 months ago yesterday so at this point cannot absolutely speak to its in field use and efficiency. It heats up fairly quick but not instant due to the cold water in the lines so we plan on having a container close by to fill with unheated water that will be pumped back into the fresh water tank later given the somewhat smallish Oliver holding tanks. Not that big of a deal really. We never used the Suburban in AC mode, only propane. FWIW I am not a big fan of Suburban products but especially their furnaces like the one installed on the Oliver. As John pointed out Truma is out of the question for a litany of reasons. It is worth noting we never had issues with our Suburban WH other than cleaning and anode rods but have had multiple issues over the years with the furnace and it is loud. I would install the Fogatti furnace in heart beat if there was room in the basement of the Oliver but the shape and size of the Fogatti furnace just doesn't fit unfortunately. It's also important to note DIY people can work on and repair the Fogatti appliances if the need arrives. The Fogatti WH is NOT an easy install however, or rather replacement with the Suburban. How that differs compared to what you already have I don't know. One thing for sure is the Fogatti is light years ahead of Suburban technologically speaking, Design, fit and finish is on another level as well. Suburban products look like relics out of post WWII era by comparison. Hope this doesn't offend anyone. LMK if you have questions about the Fogatti. Oh and they do go on sale from time to time and would expect a 4th of July sale or at least Memorial Day sale if not Dads day sale.
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New axles may not fit all older sub-frames
ScottyGS replied to Wayfinder's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
I know this is an old thread but.... I am currently in the market for the Nev-R-Lube Axles and wanted to share that Hull #145, a 2016 model, picked up in June has the 50.5" axles. I also assume that current LE2's are provided the D52 axle with an SC measurement of 50.5"..... If someone would confirm that for me I would appreciate it. TIA, Scotty -
ScottyGS started following New axles may not fit all older sub-frames
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*Batteries charged with Bluetti power bank. No problem. Used ground plug and external surge protector. Full charged batteries. *Have DC abd blue lights on. *Jack works. No lights.
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John, As always, very helpful. And the LP only model would be an interesting option.
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Thank you, Scotty. As far as needing more room under the bunk, so the suburban would not fit into the aquago metal "box", is that correct? So there is some reorganizing of the space under the bunk? I would probably look to have OTT do the work. Bob
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These Optifuse breakers are known to fail. There are a few posts here about that. I do not know what the common failed position is, but could be open when it looks closed. I would test for continuity between the two posts on the breaker. Be careful though, these are HOT, or at least the battery side is if the breaker is defective (open when appears to be closed). Hope you get your DC power up soon but put it on your mod list to replace this breaker with a 60A ANL fuse and holder. I do not believe anybody has found a quality 60A breaker. They're all cheap junk made in you know where. Fuses are dependable. Always have an extra fuse.
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Spare Tire wobbles inside the fiberglass cover
Dirt Duff replied to Dirt Duff's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Always comforting to know that I am not the only owner with a wobbly spare tire. I go with either the Home Depot and Rockler pads. Thanks 🙂 -
Bob, if you also feel this way, then you do not need to do all the following work (quoted below). They possibly have an LP-only model that could cost less too!
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YES! YES! Yes.... This is a good switch. We had the Aquago from new in 2016. Nothing but trouble and large repair bills. Switched to the Suburban and never looked back. Service available just about anywhere. It just works. I never use the electric heat, always propane. Heats up reasonably quick. The only negative is that it will take up quite a bit more room under the bunk, so locating and throwing the cutoff valve takes a bit more work. Did I mention that YES!.... I think you should do this? Good Luck Scotty
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Bob, I haven't heard of anybody going this direction, but why not? It's usually moving from the 6-gal Suburban to an on-demand/tankless model. Given your experience and reading many other posts re the Aquago model, I would not want one and I agree that I would certainly replace yours asap with something else. As you know, this model is not reliable, and my understanding is anything Truma is not serviceable! This is based on their policy of "authorized service" only. They work OEM installations only, no aftermarket sales, hence NOT serviceable except in waiting forever for OTT or Truma to service months later. Those who DIY cannot even purchase repair/replacement parts, so certainly Truma products are not for me! Rob @routlaw very recently removed a Suburban for a Fogatti tankless. He could chime in on his reasons. I would also read some blogs on tank vs. tankless to fully understand the pros and cons. Lastly, I and others with 2015-16 models, hull #s up to 150, have run the Suburban 6-gal HWH for 10+ years. This includes @topgun2, @Mike and Carol, @rideandfly, @ScottyGS, @Wayfinder and others. I would say this defines Reliability. Others can chime in on Serviceability but in 3 years of ownership, all I have done is drain it, rinse the tank annually, did the vinegar treatment once (on all plumbing). Purchased 2 anodes, installed a new one and have another for backup. I've read something about blowing the dust out of the burn chamber, but I've not experienced any real service needs which speaks again to reliability! You'll always carry 6 gallons in the tank that can't be used. I really like the option to run on propane or electric. Use electric when plugged in and it runs quieter than hearing the LP burning. I often run it on electric when towing to a campsite, powered by our inverter of course, and the +40A we get from our DC-DC charger makes it a breakeven in power, arriving at the campsite with 6-gal hot water (unless we instead run the A/C, weather depending). LP tanks always OFF when towing. There is an AC switch under the cover that is awkward to get to, so we always leave that switch ON and turn electric ON/OFF using the circuit breaker inside. There is a separate switch to fire it up by LP. For this model feature you'll have to run new 10-12 (?) AWG 120VAC wiring and add a breaker in the 120VAC power panel. You'll also need an LP ON/OFF control switch if your tankless model does not have one. That's my take. Hope it helps! 😎
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This just came up in another thread, but in their case it was one of the breakers you already found under the bed, so we can rule that out. Since the last thing you changed was charging the batteries, let's start there. How are you charging the batteries? Did you plug your shore power cord into the Bluetti and now the trailer's built-in converter (Xantrex) is charging the batteries? Or did you connect in some other way? Also, to start from basics, are both of your Lithionics batteries currently (no pun intended) turned on (blue light glowing around the power buttons)? Is EVERY DC item dead? All lights? Bathroom fan? USB outlets? Tongue jack?
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Will Fuller joined the community
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I checked both of these fuse/ breakers and neither one is tripped. They are located on the street side under the bed.
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Gliddenwoods started following No DC power!
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I checked both of these fuse/ breakers and neither one is tripped. They are located on the street side under the bed.
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My 2021 E2 has an OptiFuse 12V 60A breaker under the street side bunk. The best wiring diagram I have found that’s close to my model is the 2019 manual (page 43) from the Oliver University. See the breaker in the upper left side. Another quick check is the CO monitor under the dinette. That usually is always on, does not go through the circuit breaker. If that has a light on, you have power coming in, so it is likely the breaker.
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Spare Tire wobbles inside the fiberglass cover
Hokieman replied to Dirt Duff's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Yes I put those on there. I got a roll of stick-on UHMW from Rockler. People put it on tablesaw fences. I did something similar but less elegant to keep my hull from getting scuffed. I used 4 plastic adhesive door stopper discs from Home Depot.
