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I have to say ..... I think jd1923 may have converted me to the Church of the Furrion Chill Cube. I was very fixated on condensate running down the outside of the trailer and NOT on the amount of power needed to run the damn thing. I've been doing some research on power draw on this A/C vs. the dometic and other compressor types and am pretty much amazed. All in all about half the power needed to run the Chill Cube. And quiet. We are scheduled for a lithium upgrade toward the end of the year and will have the A/C replaced at the same time. Right now... I am going with the Chill Cube. Thanks JD for the help on this. Appreciate it. Scotty

Probably a logical conclusion. The lock was part of the “Electronics Pro Package” that OTT offered as part of the initial trailer ordering. Pretty sure it was bundled with the rear camera, Auto drain, and the cell booster as well. I never use the rear camera (remote view screen too clunky) and I’m not convinced that the cell booster does much - if anything - to increase your cell signal. The keyless lock is the only part of that package that I found any value in. (OK - the auto drain - I forgot that was part of the package. Thought you be fair, “auto” is a bit of a misnomer as you have to actuate it manually.) We use our trailer - and the door lock - A LOT. So I’m not sure that failing after two years is really terrible MTBF for something that may have been designed for being used for a couple of weeks a year. Then again, I’ve seen a lot of residential and commercial keyless locks that seem to last forever. Whether any of them is suited for use on an RV door is up for grabs. RVLock is sending me the parts “free” - no shipping charges this time. I did have to take a video, edit it down to be a small enough file to attach to an email, and took four tries to get it to send. (Yahoo never did work, had to use GMail).

I had thought about buying one of these as well, now I'm not so sure. Seems like another unreliable RV headache in its current iteration.

Thanks Bill, I will make. I hope you don’t hear in my tone I’m upset, just disappointed at this point but that can change. Everyone I have talked with has been understanding and very nice. Everyone has also been surprised this problem exists. Thanks for the contact info.

I assume that to clean the Vortex - all you have to do is powerwash it? Bill

Lamar - The two people that you seek are: Jason Essary and Scott Oliver. A polite phone call to Jason to get the ball rolling is how I'd suggest proceeding - 888-526-3978. Jason would be good because he was the central contact for sales by by both the internal and external sales unit that Oliver utilized. Also, the Service department reports to him. If he is not in his office then ask for his email and go that route. Good luck! Bill

We are now over 4,000 miles traveling this spring/summer in our Elite 1. We love this camper and are having a great time. So, we now know why our induction stove top is inoperable when we are boondocking w/o using a generator…it is not wired through the inverter. We have been in contact with Tech support and the Service dept. Service spoke with the Design and also Production. 1. Design said the stove top was run through the inverter because it would drain the batteries after 90 min of use. (We don’t cook that way when boondocking, or even when we are hooked to shore power) 2. Production said they would not support Oliver paying for or sharing the cost of rewiring because it is functioning as designed. I would have to pay out of pocket. They were unsure what that would do to the warranty. (To us, we believe this is a design issue that needs correcting) 3. The cost to have Oliver rewire to the existing 2000w inverter is $600+. 4. The cost to have Oliver rewire and add a 3000w inverter is just under $2500. I have been in the manufacturing world before I retired and I understand the response, they are not the decision makers. I know that I need to get to the decision maker level. I have contacted the sales person at B&B RV in Denver who is advocating on our behalf to his Rep at Oliver. I’m waiting on a call from that person. I have been told, but haven’t verified, that the 2027 Elite I units are wired to the inverter and this issue was a topic of discussion. However, the rep had not heard yet about our unit. I hope to verify that info soon. They are advertising a 2 burner induction stovetop in the 2027 Elite I. I would be surprised if that is actually what is in the 2027 units, but I could be wrong. So the story continues. I’m disappointed so far that 1) we were told the induction stovetop would work on battery and it doesn’t. 2) the response is very slow and I have to initiate a lot of contact to keep the ball rolling. 3) The design didn’t keep the boondocking campers in mind yet the marketing very obviously did (Check out the Oliver website). 4) Oliver, so far, expects us to pay for an “upgrade” in order to address this issue. I am asking for a 3000w inverter and wiring. I will provide my time and cost to travel to the factory and wait while they fix this (and a couple of other minor issues). We will see what Happens and I’ll keep you all informed. Thanks again for all your insights and information. Lamar

I have posted this image before but thought it may be useful here because of questions about the cosmetics of Vortex coating.

We applied Vortex 8 months ago and have been very pleased. Forest Service / Blm roads rocked with 3/4 to 1.5" fractured rock is the worst. Even with full mud flaps this stuff finds your trailer. Vortex is primarily used as a truck bed liner and is very tough. The guy that sprayed our trailer estimated the weight of the coatings about 40lbs . The material has thickness and some flex to absorb "rock impacts". We tool a 7week trip through the SW and southern UT with a lot of off road in places like Bears Ear / valley of the Gods with no sign of damage. The worst road we know for throwing rock is over Hart Mt in SW oregon, 60 miles of well maintained BLM with large fractured rock. We are still mindful of modest speeds but will travel up to 35mph with no concerns. Before vortex, we became gun-shy and would just crawl along , still taking on some damage. Over time, we had lots of micro chips (like sand blasting) with a few significant chips here and there.

I've had this problem (twice) and I believe that it comes down to a mechanical tolerance and materials problem with the deadbolt mechanism. In their design they purposely overdrive the deadbolt motor ( since they don't have a sensor to determine the position of the deadbolt). When the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel, motor torque increases and overcomes the friction material in the clutch mechanism allowing the clutch to rotate despite the fact that the deadbolt has reached the end of it's travel. This allows the motor to continue to spin, preventing it from drawing excessive current and shortening its life. I've forgotten their name for the clutch but it's a little barrel that contains a friction material that allows the motor to drive the deadbolt until excessive force (when the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel) overcomes the friction material causing the clutch to spin freely thereby decoupling the motor from the deadbolt. The problem occurs when the materials in the deadbolt mechanism bind or stick, overcoming the friction material in the clutch, resulting in the deadbolt not completing it's travel within the time that the motor is commanded to operate as determined by the electronics. The symptom is that the motor sounds normal, a confirmation beep is heard signaling end of travel of the deadbolt, but the door either doesn't lock or in my case did not unlock. In short, by design the motor is commanded to run longer than the time that it normally takes for the deadbolt to complete a full travel and relies on the clutch to decouple it's mechanical connection to the deadbolt when the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel. By doing so they eliminate deadbolt position sensors and save cost. It's clever providing it works reliably. Anything within the transport that adds friction or causes binding can cause a problem. Another issue can be a weak clutch. The company is very good about supplying parts but leaves the repairs up to the customer which usually involves sending videos, sometimes removing the lock and operating the lock by itself while making another video, then waiting for parts which in some cases does not fix the problem and the cycle repeats. I like the lock, it's very convenient, but I aways have my key in my pocket which somewhat defeats the purpose.

I have received a few direct emails and though the below direct email might be helpful for other interested in Vortex Coatings. Hello Doug, Interstate Coatings Applied the Vortex to my Oliver. Interstate is a small operation. The owner is Calvin, He is a construction contractor and owns the coating shop. I worked with Calvin and his shop operator setting the color match and planning. I have two phone numbers Calvin's cell phone: 541 815 1506 shop number: 541 280 5618 Interstate coatings 1532 S hwy 97 Redmond, Oregon 97756 Vortex application dealers seem to have a wide range of skills and experience shooting fiberglass and color matching. The guys at interstate are good guys and did a great job. I dropped the trailer, they dis-assembled the trailer, pulled the propane compartment (access to bolts through the bathroom vanity), shot the trailer nose and propane cover w vortex, then the matching automotive paint (requires several hours of drying time between the two operations) and re-assembled in one day. the process could require overnight drying for the vortex before paint based on environmental factors.You can contact Vortex to get a list of dealers in your area if Interstate coatings is too far from your home. I recommend finding a shop the has experience applying vortex to fiber. vortexcoastings.com vortex phone: 785 833 6720 Best of luck

@bugeyedriver has a similar coating on the front of his trailer. It is white and provides great protection. Mike

My point wasn’t to question your wear or towing technique. I was attempting to let the OP know that a film covering on the lower front of his trailer might be a good investment based on our experience. Mike

There IS an Oliver that has black truck bed liner spray on it and I believe that at least at one time this Oliver actually belonged to one of the Oliver's. I'm sure that Jason Essary would remember it and might even have a pic or two. I was surprised that it didn't look as bad as I thought it would. However, why get a new trailer sprayed right off the bat? Let it get dinged up a bit and then spray it or get PPF applied initially to reduce the dings (assuming that you intend to do some gravel roads and the like). Bill

We’ve had good luck with RVLock support - as they are responsive and quick to send out parts under warranty. I forget the exact failure mode, but our original OTT installed RCLock quit working. After chatting g with them on the phone they mailed out a replacement circuit board for the cost of shipping. (I’d whine about having to pay shipping - but I’ll get over it.) In the meantime, I had purchased a whole new unit from Amazon. This one talks yo you and had a lock/unlock sound that doesn’t wake the neighbors. I replaced the circuit board in the original lock and kept it as a spare. Last season, the “new” lock stopped unlocking reliably - only withdrawing the deadbolt about halfway and requiring a second attempt to get in to the trailer. So, the “spare” gets re-installed. Several more emails and sending them a video of the lick not working and they say they’re sending me something. Not sure what yet. I still don’t care for the battery situation. Trying to install 2 rows of 2 AA batteries stacked vertically and getting the battery cover on takes dexterity and fast hands.

We’ve got half as many years and maybe a third of the miles, so I’d expect you have more wear and tear. I do all my own cleaning and polishing - so I’m intimately familiar with the whole front end of the trailer. The upper half gets WAY more abuse from bugs - especially in the Southern states. I’ve only spotted one tiny nick of any significance and it doesn’t even penetrate the gelcoat. I’d guess our “paved roads” mission combined with our low-slung tow vehicles (and not doing burn-outs on gravel) keep the nicks to a minimum. Just from a drivability standpoint, I avoid the jacked-up, high ground clearance vehicles like the AT-4 (or is it ATX?) trim level on our GMC Sierra. Just keeping the truck body close to the ground keeps the amount, trajectory, and velocity of road debris mitigated adequately. I like a vehicle that my wife can enter and exit without a rope ladder - and also at least a bit of ability to see objects close to me when maneuvering in tight parking lots.

This is exactly what I’ve been doing. No issues. Mike

We’ve towed now for 10 seasons, 100K+ miles. We have quite a few nicks and chips on the lower front of the trailer. When the CGI guys refresh my ceramic coating next time I’m going to have them put their film on the front. Mike

On our LE2 that DC breaker is under the forward, port side of the king bed - just aft of the pantry/battery compartment. (Inside the trailer) I manually “trip” that breaker when we store our Ollie to kill all the DC power drains so that a small battery maintainer can keep the batteries topped up. It takes only a very light touch on that red button to open the circuit. (Pop that “swing arm” that has been mentioned.) Rather than a LARGE electrical load opening that breaker, I’d bet an accidental touch with the back of your hand or a battery charger cable or whatever manually tripped the breaker. Just my SWAG based on my experience with that style breaker.

I purchased a “Rock Tamer” mudflap setup to use on our two vehicles, assembled it part way and essentially abandoned the project because of not having the right tools handy to trim the mudflap height/length and “drill” the holes through the gummy “rubber” material. After towing the Ollie for a season, I checked and found so little evidence - much less “damage” to the lower front area of the trailer that I decided that the added weight and fooling with the RockTamer (that fits over the ball carrier shaft) really isn’t necessary. If anything, weathering of the gel coat and nicks from rocks kicked up by -other- vehicles that strike the sides of the trailer are at least as big of a concern as gravel thrown up by our tires. We primarily travel paved roads, and find the few times that we’re on gravel that the roads are SO rough that slowing to walking speed is required to keep dental work and trailer contents where we last stowed them. That said - if anybody is looking for a Rock Tamer setup - I’ll make you a helluva deal on the one I have in storage. It’s in Hammond, LA, but I could arrange to have it in Winnsboro, TX this winter/Spring. https://a.co/d/01fojEhk

I do as well. Using the white hose of course! GJ

I was wondering if anyone had put a Vortex or LineX type of covering on their Oliver and what kind of results they had. I’m taking delivery of an Apex 23 in October and have made an appointment with the folks who do the ceramic coatings to do a PPL on the front and lower undersides of my trailer to provide some additional protection against debris being thrown up. Seems like a good idea to do right off the bat vs after taking damage though the thought of spraying my brad new trailer gives me a huge “eak”!!!!

Was happy to read about your Titan. I have a 2020 Pro 4X to tow my Oliver Apex 23 when I get in October. I also purchased the Anderson for same reason you mentioned so feel good about that.

Another option that does not require this. Just use a funnel to poor the required amount of bleach/NCI into the hose (while holding it up right of course). Then connect the hose to the port and start running the water.