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You might also want to consider throwing in a 2 to 3 foot section of pex - just in case. Bill

Dennis, I made our own Towel Rack from you plans and I really must THANK YOU for GREAT detailed instructions. My wife and I just returned from the 2026 Oliver Rally in Lake Gunther and we had many people ask about our drying rack. I made sure to let them know that I pulled it from the OTT Forum. I only made one modification... I shortened your original design enough to store it under our Twin Bed (see attached). Thanks again for posting your plans.

Nope, didn't go with the solar awning. Hoping to use a 400w folder for supplemental. The external plug isn't necessary --- just need a way to route back to the EcoFlow for a folding panel. Is there any sort of external cable routing at all? Nothing for starlink or similar? If not that seems like a pretty fundamental design flaw.

@larcat @Sentry62 Congrats on your delivery date!!!! We asked Oliver about the external folding solar panel connection which is on the 2027 Elite II and were told it was deleted on the Apex X23 since it had the 48V system. There were 3 Apex's next to each other at the rally and Patrick Industries came to our Apex to go over some of the features of the system and answer any questions that each owner had. On the way home from the rally we cracker docked 2 nights and one night at an RV Overnights Host. We did not get the solar awning, not for certain how many opportunities we would have to use the awning. Did you opt for the solar awning?

I spent a LOT of time at the showroom looking at the APEX. There are a few things I liked, but honestly the #1 item keeping me away was the 48-volt Eco flow system. I did some research once I got home and it appears to be quality product. My issue was that the AC runs through the system full time - if you need AC cooling the EF system must be working: the AC running through the inverters. We all use our Olivers differently and times and needs can change - from boondocking to a ritzy RV park in AZ. Long term I could see an extended time in a hot area of the country; I would want my AC running off 120-volt shore power. That and the fact it is a system that is not component driven - but rather a closed system. But that's not my specialty - so I leave it here. I really like the slam latches over the standard ones in an EII. The axles and Alcan leaf springs are another improvement - one that honestly should be standard on all the EII's - that topic for another day. And yeah, the black high Lites appealed to me - call me strange.... The tires - make no sense to me - but what do I know. The solar awnings were also a no go for me. However - I can see as an off the beaten track boondocking rig it makes sense. I preferred the EII with appropriate solar system.

Thanks, JD. This is the best description of the smart alternator that I have found. https://www.thefastreligion.com/mr-smart-alternator-function What I have seen on a couple of other forums (https://www.pathfindertalk.com/threads/disabling-vvcs-voltage-variable-control-system.45074/) is that some choose to disable the variable voltage control system and make the alternator act like they always have and just pump 13.4 V to the battery 100% of the time. I will definitely have the alternator looked at. There might be something going on there. Thanks for your thoughts.

Yes Bob, this voltage is very low! An automotive LA battery after sitting overnight or sitting for a few days should read 12.5V minimum and more like 12.6V with a newer battery. When towing or at highway speeds, voltage across the battery with the alternator running should produce 13.6V min and more often 13.8V to a max 14.2V. The term Smart battery bothers me unless it's smart enough to know you have the DC-DC charger attached. Check a Nissan truck forum, search for "alternator" or "towing." If you have been DC-DC charging adequately for some time and now nothing, you could have blown something in the Nissan alternator. Perhaps it did not have +50A available. Your DC-DC charger installation is likely fine. Instead of "inverter service" test your alternator or take it to an electrical shop that rebuilds alternators and starters, Before I installed our Orion 50A charger, I installed a HD alternator rated at 50A greater capacity. Let us know. Best wishes, JD

So we have had a DC to DC charging system on our LE I for a year now. It worked very well, but has become inconsistent and unreliable. The system was installed by a local inverter service center with a solid reputation. They actually are the supplier for some parts, such as solar panels, to Oliver. The tow vehicle is a 2024 Pathfinder with a "smart" alternator. The charger is a Victron Orion 50 amp. Using the Victron app I can see that the voltage on the input side of the charger is sitting between 12.2 and 12.4 volts. Aside from a brief spike on start up to 14.4 or so, it remains there. When driving the voltage remains that low and occasionally jumps to 14.4 or so and occasionally that casues the bulk charging to start. But this lasts only for a short time (seconds) and the voltage drops, and the charging stops. Bottom line is that the batteries are not being charged. The inverter service center has worked with me to make sure all of the parameters are correct, but there is still something wonky that we can't figure out. Out of curiosity I had the tow vehicle battery tested by a couple of battery shops and all looks good there. 12.2-12.4 seems very low for the output from the TV battery. In fact, the Victron parameters require 13.3 volts (default) and we have dialed that down to 12. 9. Any thoughts as to why the voltage from the tow vehicle would be that low? Also, does anyone know a DC to DC charging resource/expert that I could connect with to trouble shoot this? Thanks, Bob

@Wayfinder Did you see any sensible way to route a pv into the ecoflow unit from outside? Thanks.

@Sentry62 @FirstApex We're picking ours up in December --- is there really no way to sensibly route the cord from a folding solar panel to the EvoFlow main unit? Feels like a bit of an oversight.

I agree with GJ on the points he made, except this one. A 48V 100 Ah battery translates to 400 Ah in 12V. There are 3 of us that have 900 Ah with our mods. This huge/heavy battery fills the bay without leaving room for another, you’re capped at 400 Ah. OTT has had issues with electric awnings retracting and/or not opening when they should. $5K is an expensive awning that may be in the direction of the sun occasionally. The advertised DC-DC charger is not viable (in any new Oliver product). IMHO, the best looking Oliver is the Elite by far! Painting unless powder coated is not good. Flat Black-out trim is a fad kids started 10-20 years ago. The Apex looks like a mod trailer created by a 20-something. AT tires do nothing for a trailer. They only add value to the TV on drive wheels. No additional traction, just more difficult to keep clean. The 48V Houghton is not an efficient variable-speed model and the black cover will make it run hot when sunny. I promise you, my old hull has far more upgrades for “standout improvements for serious boondockers! The ECOFLOW system is laden with proprietary cabling and connectors that cannot be sourced through normal channels like an RV store or trailer service center. Need to get your Ecoflow system repaired? You'll be on your own or head back to Hohenwald! Better have installed Victron! Blackout not for me. Chrome wheels are a must, with ribbed tires and a few satin gray touches on the grills, yeah! 😎

@Wayfinder Here’s another one for your map. The Rocky Mountain Fiberglass Rendezvous will be on August 2 - 6, 2027 at Camp Hale, near Leadville, CO. Below is the link to the website. I attended this summer and there were a couple of other Olivers there besides me. https://sites.google.com/site/rockymountaineggrendezvous/

Good thoughts for sure. I take them a step further. For the newer owners, when you hook up to the City water on-boarding port, your closed plumbing system comes up to the same standing pressure as the city system. This includes your pump, hot water heater, and all your piping to the bathroom, kitchen and outside . That pressure generally is much higher than the OTT pumped system, and can cause leaks. When not using this port, most leaks are slow drippers. But if your system is connected to this port, you can get a really serious leak. Especially if you some air in your plumbing, the high pressure City water and air in your system can cause severe water hammer. And that's when fittings get blown out. With a nod to JD's post above, when you have such a system breach, it will flow a lot of water into your hull. If you are not there, your trailer suspension and MEP systems are at extreme risk. Hence you really should be there when using this port. Unless my pump fails, my "Step Further" is that I don't use this port (except for winterizing at the end of season). Just not worth the risk. GJ

JD: This 50-response thread has drawn the attention of The Rabbit Hole Executive Committee, particularly because several of your responses are highly technical and lengthy. Analysis shows that several of your posts exceed the Association’s screening requirements. If further such posts on this thread continue, you will be involuntarily inducted into the OTT Rabbit Hole Association. This is your one and only warning. Vigilantly, Chairman for Life of the Rabbit Hole Association

You may want to hear from an owner with a 2025 model, or a model year closer to yours. On my 2022 unit, the winterizing inlet is clearly located at the rear of the trailer near the bumper, as shown in the photo.

Lamar: Did you purchase your LE1 via OTT at the Mother Ship or one of their "Dealers" while that program was in existance? GJ

My trailer only has 2 inlet ports, one labeled city water(curb side) and one labeled fresh water (street side).

Here are two images showing those three inlets. (my camper needs a good cleaning) I hope this has helped.

I know what I’m doing soon. 😏

No No, they are not the same inlet. The port that connects to the jug is located on the curb side at the very rear of the trailer, next to the bumper. The fresh water inlet is on the rear street side of the trailer, and on my unit both ports on that side of trailer are clearly labeled (fresh water and city water). When we purchased our used 2022 model earlier this year, I found the factory valve configuration diagram to be incomplete and somewhat confusing. After tracing the plumbing and verifying the valve functions, I expanded the diagram and created a revised version, which I’ve attached. In my opinion, it provides a much clearer explanation of the system and makes it easier to understand the various valve configurations.

I agree with Gj, preferable to see it on both sides. The hole that exits the wet bolt is centered along the bolts length. The grease will take the path of least resistance.

Hello all, I have a 2025 legacy elite 2 hull #1633. Reading the manual about filling the freshwater tank it mentions fresh water inlet and rear water inlet, are these the same inlet. I know about turning the valves to boondocking configuration but which port do i hook the hose hose that goes in the jug to. Manual says rear water inlet but I do not see one labeled this on the trailer. Thanks in advance.

Nope - Those silver looking things on the bottom of the trailer are the scupper holes. They actually even draw water vapor out from between the hulls while you are traveling down the road. Bill

Application of a bit of penetrating lubricant, like PB Blaster, then waiting for a day, could free up your stuck brass valve, and enable it to fully open and close.

Helpful post, with great photos. Thanks for the "heads up." It was my understanding that Olivers have scupper holes in the bottom hull that would allow water leaking into the bottom of the trailer to drain, preventing it from becoming a swimming pool. Am I mistaken? Also, did the unfortunate Oliver owner use a pressure regulator on the city water input connector? I now plan to carry a 1/2" brass fitting and 1/2" Pex B rings, with crimper, on our next long trip.