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Back to the drawing board on awning windows.🤔 The key question is are these the new 90 degree opening awning windows Oliver has since began installing, or the previous model awning windows that only opened 3” at the bottom?

I think I mentioned in a previous post that the shades staying tightly attached to the frames is dependent upon two things: The clips The channels on the back side of the shades On our problem child shade, one of the “fins” molded into the plastic frame of the shade is cracked. So there is no firm channel for the clip to snap into. I attempted to remedy this by moving the clip to a different position behind the shade. Unfortunately, once the crack on that fin is started, it creates a stress point that causes the crack to grow and extend to wherever force from the clip is applied. If the clip can be moved far enough away from the crack, you -may- solve the problem at least for a while. Though the shade doesn’t -always- fall off while towing, to make it stay up reliably, another method to hold the shade to the window frame is required.

Wow. Seems like OTT still hasn’t found a decent window.

I found this posted by Jessica Taylor on the FB page. She does not seem to be a member here on the forum. It's not good news but it bears repeating for all the anti-FB owners. "Second camping trip since getting hull 1701 back to Alaska in May and one of our windows shattered while pulling into our campsite. Looks like the opening arms broke and may have come out of the slider bar at bottom of window and hit the glass causing it to shatter. The glass is broken, the arms are broken, and the sliding bar is on the road to the campsite never to be found again. We noticed on our trip home to Alaska and on our next camping trip that the windows work themselves loose as you drive, because of this event if you have a 2026 you may want to check window tightness often throughout your travels! Has anyone else had a window break on their 2026 Oliver? It’s the weekend so will call service Monday, but am curious if anyone else has had this happen. Have been 100% happy with our new camper except the windows. Bill is going to look at the window on the street side bed in a bit because it looks like that one’s arms are out of the slide as well and may be broken. Not happy with these windows at all. Not to mention the fact that I pray this tape doesn’t ruin the paint. Oliver Travel Trailers we will call Monday and I’m sure this will all get cleared up Adding again, all of the windows in the Oliver are broken this way except the bathroom window. We will have to tape all of the windows closed and possibly tape all of the arms down to the frame to get home without further glass shattering because the glass bounces freely and the arms move about freely. The arms seem to act as a shatter point when they poke the glass just right. I have just placed a service ticket on their website as suggested. I will also keep gaffers tape on hand from here on out as suggested. 2026 owners, be very careful when traveling. I’m not sure that constantly tightening your windows throughout your travels would have solved this. The arms are clearly not built to handle this job as evidenced by all of them breaking on a brand new camper."

That’s kinda my next thought. With the inner/plastic “track” in place, you really can’t get too the hole where the screw holding the stopper is. Unless you’re an endodontist and used to working down inside small, wet areas. 😂 I figured I could cut off that end of the track as the stopper & screw fit down inside of it. That would give me a better look at the hole in the frame and the option of either replacing the stopper & screw and having better access to seal it and having the screw length be able to get a better grip. Or - just doing as you suggest with some waterproof sealant. And a pain? By all means. These windows are a disaster from design to operation. WHY in heaven’s name would someone design a window that is so fussy that a little dirt or some bits of tree cause it to leak? Even worse - making holes in the wet part of the frame to install things that are GOING to get bumped and dislodged. (Slide the window a bit too far open? You just compromised that weak seal. It really makes me wonder about Oliver’s selection of these windows - and some other accessories as well. The fiberglass hull is great - but not many of the things bolted onto it are equal to the hull.

I remember when we still had the DPll, cabin humidity reaching 80-90% some nights with the a/c running on low; contributed by the a/c, as well as our respiration. The dehumidifier we had at the time could not compensate for the excessive moisture. As you know the Atmos is much quieter and efficient in cooling, but it also handles excessive moisture much better with dedicated modes. And then with the Cielo Breez Max thermostat addition, humidity spikes are a thing of the past.

Sorry for the delay. Traveling myself. Short answer is: No. They have one with a long tail and without the male end. This one is like an extension with a male and female ends. Save the $$ and but it with just the female plug for the TV and a long cord to get well into your Ollie. GJ

I replaced a broken screen clip yesterday. $8.50 plus shipping for a one inch piece of plastic that must cost $0.02 to manufacture. Since I had it open, I took a picture of my wiring. Love the new switch. We can just leave the fan door open, rain or shine, for ventilation and push the button once for fan ON and push it later for fan OFF. 😎

I see an upgrade mod in your future! 😃

Excellent point Ron. A person can almost be comfortable when 90F in the shade in Phoenix, where 80F in Houston might feel hotter! As you know, that's a test I cannot do out here. Note the Ruuvi screen print above. On the roof of our Oliver, at 104F the RH was only 17%. Trunk temp was 91F at 27% RH and inside the cabin 76F was very comfortable at 38% RH. Rich added comment on his experience with the Chill Cube in Florida. We lived in WPB Florida for three years. When we ran our home A/C 24x7x365 and RH would be in the high 40s. Of course outside it was 60-80% RH. Taylor Guitars states 47% RH is perfect for fine acoustic guitars (good for humans too). In Florida with A/C running, I could leave the guitars hanging on wall hooks. In Prescott, I converted a hutch into a cabinet to store 4 guitars. I keep sponges in trays of water wicking moisture to keep RH in the high 40s! In the dry season (spring-early summer) we run 3-4 large capacity humidifiers in our home. We all know the Oliver can get humid/wet inside. That works out perfectly in the dry SW. It's often 20% RH outside but 40% RH inside. Highest ever I've seen winter camping is 58% RH in the Oliver Cabin. Then open up windows on a sunny afternoon and the extra moisture will evaporate. We don't worry if an RV A/C adds to cabin humidity like most do. 😎

2 ACs, a chill cube in the living area and diesel sounding 1910 style Furrion up front! But the 2027 Brinkley models Zs now include dual Furrion Chill Cubes. The new 15k low-profile up front, and the std 18k in the living room. Maybe, with the gas prices we might end up in Texas this year.

Thanks Rich! Does your Brinkley 5th-wheel have 1 or 2 Chill Cubes. I guess a small one could have one. Big 5th wheels have two A/Cs, one bedroom and one for the living area. At Quartzsite, Art @MAX Burner fired up the Chill Cube (on battery) in his smaller Brinkley TT and it cooled nicely. Hope to see you this winter! 😎

It's literally just dangling in place between the fins on the right side of center, near the top. The fit is tight enough and it works well. You could bend a little "U" clip to hold it in place if wanted. Some areas on the right side near the gas burner get really hot when the flame is on, then it cools quickly. The condenser fins near center represent a more average temperature. We used to set the temperature control to max cold in hot weather to keep food from spoiling. My wife is happy that she doesn't need to constantly adjust the temperature anymore.

They do the job on our trailer.

Congrats from Hull #1045, Jolli Olli. Happy Camping.

We actually tested this in Florida this past April. Outside temps were low 90s with 80%+ RH. With the Chill Cube in Dry Mode, the highest we saw inside was high 70s and 55ish% RH. So it didn’t quite get below 50% humidity, but it made a huge difference. At 77°F/55% RH it was comfortable enough to hang out in. In those conditions I’d say 55-60% RH is probably the realistic best-case without adding a separate dehumidifier. Bear in mind our Brinkley 5th wheel is not as “efficient” as an Oliver. We love the Chill Cube, the variable speed compressor is very efficient, we have seen similar numbers than @jd1923

Geoff, How did you mount, suspend the temperature switch above the fins so it could be moved easily. Did you mount on the tube above the condenser fins, or did you hang it off of the fan bracket? Thanks

My Tacoma was a 2012 and I had installed the TRD Supercharger, so plenty of power. The limitation was weight and range. Be careful not to overload - tongue weight, your body weight and cargo add up fast. I was stopping every 200 miles or less to fill the gas tank. Also, be aware that the overall weight of the Tacoma makes it easier for the trailer to push around in certain circumstances. I was always cautious on downhills and downhill curves. We’ve always liked the Tacoma’s we’ve owned, they just aren’t optimal for towing a 6,000 pound paperweight! After upgrading to a couple of half tons we’ve now been towing with a 2500 diesel for the past 5 years and the difference is night and day. A Tacoma will do the job, just be wary of its limitations! Mike

It will be of interest to eventually learn how the Chill Cube handles cabin humidity in very hot climates with high RH. A cabin temp of 76° can be comfortable only if interior humidity is kept below 50%. Perhaps some other ‘Chill Cuber’ can share their experiences regarding this matter. @jd1923, your test results are very impressive!

The Obeaming model I installed doesn’t have a physical button, but rather a center touch feature for on/off, as well as dimming and color selection. Wiring in my instance was simple; black to black, white to white. The wires were crimped and taped in my installation. I was pleased to find the overhead cabinets had routed channels to better conceal the wiring. Although the rivet holes matched these new lights, I choose to use screws rather than rivets; a piece of wood skewer was snapped off in each hole as filler for screw securement. I also decided to replace all of the former touch lights to forego any further issues. I’ve throughly enjoyed these lights for the past year and very pleased with the added ambiance of the blue color. They also operate as Tom @Tom and Doreen describes with “memory” when using the master power switch.

I don’t think of it as a ‘gap’, but rather just a recess where the vinyl flooring meets the curved fiberglass walls. Regardless, grit and grime collects along these edges and must be periodically cleaned!

I remember reading in the "Morton's on the move" blog that BTU output was about half it's actual rating but didn't think that would be a problem since my old 9.2k Coleman worked just fine at cooling in our Ollie, and it worked better than others I've used at controlling humidity due to longer run times. I bet you'll get better performance when traveling at lower altitudes. Bottom line, none of these units are perfect, but if you need A/C off-grid inverter compressor units are really your only choice and the Chill Cube seems to be a great one. Only question is durability, which is the same question I have for my Turbro.

That was just a model number listing error. Here is some advice from a Shurflo tech for setting charging pressure, from a thread titled: "Are two accumulators better than one?"

Thanks for the welcome all. We're really excited 🙂 Mike & Carol --- any tips vis a vis the Tacoma?

Yeah, I tried this today and you are correct. I hosed our blinds this week with a fine mist spray setting. I did this 2 years ago and it was about time again. When I reinstalled I found a couple of clips where the mounting screw needed tightening, so check for this first. Then of all the 24 clips, 6 per window, only one would not seat properly (guess we're lucky). I removed it, tried to stretch it wider on my vise and no-go on the spring steel. So this is my solution and it worked great, tight as can be! just one wrap of electrical tape. 😎