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Here’s an example, Potawatomi State Park WI Individual sites offer a mix of non-electric and electric pedestals (40 sites with electricity), but lack individual water or sewer hookups. There are communal water spigots in the park. And another park Devils Lake has Water on pedestals but not each campsite. We carry an extra 7 gallon blue water carrier and refill our tank Using the rear siphon port. Search result: No, there are no Wisconsin State Park campgrounds that offer water hookups at every individual campsite. [1] The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources (DNR) deliberately designs its state park campgrounds to offer a more rustic experience. While many parks provide electrical hookups at select sites, none of them feature individual water or sewer connections at every campsite. [1, 2, 3, 4]

I have to admit. I swallowed pretty hard when I wrote the check for my new Oliver back in 2018. However, it's been relatively trouble free in the eight years I've owned it. Can't say that for most brands. I think the low production run also adds to the desirability. If Hohenwald was stamping trailers out as fast as Casita, it would lower the exclusivity of owning an Oliver. I was happy when Oliver went back to factory only sales.

I am looking for a city water connection at the campsite. Are you saying WI does not offer city water connections at the campsite?

Since I had never used the Convection Oven side of the Microwave, I thought I would give it a try before we head out on the next adventure. I Place the metal rack in the oven, and put a bowl of water in the oven. I know it is not food, but at least I thought it would work for a test. I started the Convection Oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes. I had also set the Xantrex Charger to 5amps charging, since I was using a dedicated 20AMP circuit in the RV port. Before starting the test the readout in the rear upper cabinet showed 1 Amp at 122 Volts. After starting the test I was drawing 12Amps At 119Volts. After 1 minute, the GFCI Breaker tripped. I tried resetting the breaker a couple of times and it continued to trip. I thought maybe something shorted out. After About 5 minutes I was able to reset the breaker. I tried the same test only at 300 degrees, and the same thing happened. I decided to try the Xantrex Freedom 2000 inverter and give my new Epoch batteries a small workout. Again after one minute the 120V 20Amp GFCI in the Xantrex tripped. Waited 10 minutes and was able to reset it. At this point I wanted to make sure the Microwave part of the oven still worked. I removeI the metal rack and placed the bowl of water on the glass tray and ran the microwave for 3 minutes and was able to heat up the water. I know I wasn't pulling over 13Amps total in the trailer, so it couldn't have been from a high load. Since it took some time for the breakers to be reset, I think there is dome type of switch automatically reseting in the Convection side of the oven. The previous owners back in 2020 stated that they never used the microwave side, but had used the Convection side on the few trips they had taken. It is not a show stopper, but it would have nice to cook one of my recipes in the the convection oven for the egg rally. Any Ideas?

Water? Define. Recommendations of great WI public parks is easy and many exist...but if you want to city water connection AND a great WI public park that's unlikely. WI Oliver Owner here.

Since the existing bypass valve has had issues for at least a few owners already, I’d be very leery about replacing it with another of the same valve. Amazon has at least three 1/2” three-way ball valves - all with more substantial handles and likely better guts. Not sure if THIS is the right configuration - but if not - there’s two others: https://a.co/d/0gG3fFr3

Thanks to all responses. 😀

Gotta love it

#1 Oliver Travel Trailers Oliver Travel Trailers builds about 100 units per year in Hohenwald, Tennessee. Each trailer uses a double-hull fiberglass shell, foam-core insulation, and an aluminum chassis. There is no wood in the walls to rot or absorb moisture. Two 250-point inspections and limited production add to the appeal, while used inventory remains scarce. The video reports that 5-year-old Olivers can sell near their original purchase price, with 10-year-old examples retaining 70% to 80%.

We thought we might escape the heat and go to Wisconsin, especially The Driftless area. Does anyone have a recommendation? I haven't found one with water.

That happened to me once. I blew out the drip hoses.

Hello. I have a 2021 LE2 with a Truma Aventa retrofitted by the Florida Truma service center. I had a similar slow drip that developed from the air distributor. To repair it I removed air distributor from the ceiling. I found the Aventa condensation hose was spliced to the original Oliver condensation drain hose and secured with a radiator style hose clamp. That clamp was loose and leaking. A few turns of the screwdriver tighten the clamp and the leak stopped. I made note that if this leak reoccurs I'll find a more robust (maybe spring style) clamp to use. Regards, Steve

Interesting problem, but it sounds like you are on the right track. The volume of condensate coming from the hose at the rear of our trailer during hot/humid weather is high and starts almost immediately when starting up the AC. According to Truma it should be possible to clear a blocked condensate drain by getting up on the roof and clearing any debris (like leaves) blocking traps and the gap underneath the outdoor unit. Have you gotten up there to check things out? https://support.truma.com/s/article/Clean-Aventa-condensate-traps?language=en_US

That was the reason I asked for some clarification and additional photos.

Very cool underbody lighting system.

Your 2023 is very different from a 2008.

Cool! I see it. whats the piece closer to the WH? Just a coupler?

Agree wholeheartedly with everything @Galway Girl says above! No issues with the glass turntable or the rubber (silicone I’m guessing) tips on the rack. Yes. DO use it when baking - just like your oven at home has racks. We use the Convection oven quite a bit. We’re not big fans of microwaves. We’ve use the microwave setting for popcorn and reheating something that we’re too lazy (or dirty dish frugal) to put into a regular pan. Two caveats for the convection oven: This ain’t your mamma’s full-size home convection oven. It simply doesn’t have the oomph of a 240v electric oven. I find that even using recommended temperatures, things seem to come out undercooked. Conventional wisdom is lower the temp 25F when using a recipe that gives you setting for a conventional, non-convection oven. I haven’t actually put an oven thermometer in there to check - but I guess one of these days I will. (“They” say you should do this with your home oven as well - thermostats aren’t always accurate!) My bigger concern - when cooking something for a long time - like a cake for 35 or 40 minutes OR when cooking at high temps - like 350 and above (heaven forbid a pizza at 400F!) - the oven puts a LOT of heat onto the shallow counter/shelf above the fridge. Hot enough to burn you. I worry that it could discolor, soften, or blister the surface. I’ve taken to sponging it down every few minutes Those points mentioned - using the oven on warm months WILL add a lot of heat to the inside of your trailer. That’s great in January in Wisconsin - but definitely not great in July in Texas. It would have been GREAT if the folks at OTT had thought of this and either vented the oven outside - or even more cleverly - set it up so you could vent the heat outside during the summer - and inside in the winter. (Another mod for our prototypers?)

The check valve is the second brass piece from the water heater, with two hex ends. If you magnify the photos, you can just see the directional arrow on the top side between the hex ends.

Theres a lot of brass pieces there. I’m assuming you mean the check valve is the first piece attached to the upper port of the water heater? Guessing the next piece after that is just a coupling to join to the tee? I’m not caring for the “quality” or robustness of that bypass valve. I’m thinking that if it is a weak spot in the system, and the check valve apparently is also a failure point - that it might be an option to replace the check valve with a plain old valve, and rework the bypass with a Tee and two valves? Not sure I’m ready to install a whole recirculating system at this point. I’m leaning toward 120v AC point if use heater(s).

We use our convection mode all the time. All parts are temp safe! The wire rack is used to hold items up off the glass turntable so hot air flows around the item being cooked. If you were put the item in the glass tray the bottom won’t be exposed to the oven heat…so Use the rack every time in convection cooking. (That would be like putting a pan on the bottom of a stove, not on the rack). The rubber feet are intended for high heat in the oven and are left on the rack. We bake things all the time in convection mode and they work well. For grilling we turn the rack so the tray is in the high position so what we broil is up high by the burner.

Over 5 years of owning this Oli and we have never used the Convection Oven function of the microwave. Planing on going to an egg rally and wanting to try one of my dishes that requires an oven. So I have a couple of questions. I was worried about high temps on the stuff inside the microwave. I was planning on using the grill rack with the little rubber ends on it to hold the food in the middle to get even dispersal of heat around food. Do I have to use the grill rack? (The only thing I have used the grill rack is to letting dishes cool down in our house, Never even stored it in the Oli.) Are the following safe at high oven temps? glass tray, turntable ring, turntable shaft, and little rubber feet on the grill rack? The manual talks about preheating the oven and then just putting the food in. If you leave the glass tray in convection mode and place cool cooking dishes on the hot glass tray could it break the glass tray? Sorry about obsessing about this I just want to be safe and successful. Thanks for your input.

https://www.rvtravel.com/resale-champs-top-5-rv-brands-hold-1271/ 009/26/2026 edition

bugeyedriver I'm a bit unclear. Your pics appear to be hilighting the valve and your fix to be in an area at the rear of the trailer. Our 2023 Elite 1 has the black tank valve up front, street side just aft of the interior bulkhead in the bottom of the compartmet that also houses the furnace.