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This is a nicely laid out trailer. I also noticed the Battleborn battery choice. Things I like: Nautilus water management. Kitchen layout Additional windows (although front windows might be susceptible to rock breakage?) Independent suspension option Dislikes No pantry manual leveling jacks They are also planning a 29 foot model. Intriguing.

Saw this a while back and they hadn’t started shipping yet. The earlier video showed very rough cutouts in the cabinets ( no trim out) were as it was first prototype. See they went with Battleborn.

Hate to say it but it looks like Oliver now has some serious competition. This thing is a true work of industrial art IMHO. https://www.awakenrv.com And for a complete walk through check this one out. So many things done right. They are above my pay grade but competitive to Oliver pricing, actually a bit less.

When I took my Zirk’s out, I had to hold the wet nut bolt with a wrench, and then use vice grips on the Zirk head to loosen it up. The hex heads on the desserts just stripped out with me needless to say I had to replace all of the Zirk’s.

I totally agree though our Furrion unit is probably older than yours but regardless these things could have only been made by a very troubled mind. Effectively we never use ours, never watch TV while out in the Oliver and radio reception is near non existent in places where we usually are at. If it weren't for creating an ugly gapping hole I would have taken the thing out years ago. Looks like you found an excellent alternative. Looks nicer too.

I’ve never liked Furrion entertainment center, it’s not user friendly and the front panel is difficult to read in low light. The tiny remote is absolutely terrible, and the larger upgrade remote isn't much better. I usually control it with the phone app when I remember where to find it, for some reason they called it "ES Control,” and it constantly drops out. The tech is outdated. Iv’e wanted to upgrade it for years, but never found a unit that met my requirements and justified the expense: Has to fit into the existing cutout Controls that are intuitive and easy-to-read Decent remote control HDMI ARC ports on front and back (not the cheap HDMI pass-through ports) Current Bluetooth technology Two speaker zones Cost under $200 I found IRV Technology’s model IRV62 for a $180, and it had everything I wanted. https://a.co/d/0dODdwBi The controls couldn’t be simpler or easier to read. It does have a few less features than the Furrion, but nothing that will be missed. Like only 2 speaker zones compared to Furrion’s 3 and the Optical audio port that caused horrible sounding audio phasing issues between TV and stereo speakers. The IVR62 was a close fit on paper. But unfortunately Oliver had cut an oversized opening for the Furrion and miss-drilled extra mounting holes. Consequently, the new faceplate didn’t quite cover the extra holes, and the new mounting holes were on the very edge of the cutout. This was resolved with white JB weld on the edge of the oversized cutout to strengthen the screw holes, and I made a thin 3-D printed bezel that covers the extra holes. It’s not even noticeable. The print file is available if anyone has the same problem, or I made extra bezels if anyone needs one. The rest of the installation was easy, although it took a minute to figure out how the Furrion was mounted. There are 4 screws behind top and bottom trim pieces. These trims have small notches on the ends where they can be popped off with a screwdriver. It’s highly recommended to identify and mark each of the 4 speaker cables before cutting the connections. Use the wire color code legend on the back of the Furrion case to identify the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front. Also the IRV’s yellow “Bat” wire and the fused red “+12” wire are both connected to the Olivers hot wire, which was purple in my case. Other than that, the wiring is straight forward. The new stereo is so much easier to use, it works seamlessly with Bluetooth and the TV, and it sounds better too. I’ll be using it more often now that I don’t need a flashlight and reading glasses to operate it. Cheers! Geoff

Yes, good idea to live with new accessories for a while, proper install when certain. 24V now we're talking! Most AC adapters convert to some lower DC voltage. All you need is a small DC-DC converter which runs off your 12VDC system, so no inverter or shore power needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D082AX8/?th=1 @Snackchaser introduced us to this device to power a Starlink Mini, without using their adapter, instead running on house batteries. I have one installed in our truck for the Starlink. Adding one under the rear dinette would be simple to power those lights! 😎

Great pics! That’s one of our favorite areas. My grandparents lived in Branson when I was growing up, it was a little different in those days. Mike

Mines new but it so happened that when I was ready the perfect trailer - for me - came along. The two features I wanted in an Ollie was the hidden gasket windows and induction but 2026 was the Year of the Purchase regardless. So I literally screamed when I saw on Twitter the new options for 2026 - said so to Anita and she was like "yeah wut?' 😅 I had started seriously looking at Oliver around 2018 I think. For my preferences the 2027 are a step back, I already mentioned I love the valences, roller shades and 'single hand opening' windows. Only additions are ones I can and am easily doing Alcan five leaf (yeah they talked me into it) Bulldog Somebody here put in circulating hot water - I seriously might do that for boondocking I want to upgrade the outside shower somehow to accept garden hoses (WIP, I have something coming in) I'll probably put the blutech purifier on the kitchen cold line You know usual owner mods, the platform is perfect Hey on the Chill Cube here's a guy I followed back in my Bigfoot days, he does a review. And he claims it's inverter?

Thanks jd. Yeah set this up in Hohenwald and haven't touched it since. Before doing anything drastic involving cutting tools I'm going to sit with it a good long while - like the first year, to make sure it's the way I want it, it works long term, etc. And I may not mess with it, this works really well and I'm not noticing the cables as long as they're relatively tidy. On 12V I don't think Hue does a lot of that except possibly the Hue LED strips, but pretty sure those don't give you the phosphor, just a white plastic diffusor. EDIT: Those floor lights are 24 V so you could put two batteries in series, or some combination

Very nice! Is there anything comparable in 12V lighting? Love soft lighting, but the installation could be improved. I imagine this is just your first take. Cut the wire, drill 1/4” or smaller hole behind the light to a power source in the basement. Then no clumsy adapter or wires showing. Our Charley would say, what’s all this new stuff in my spot down here, Dad?! 🤣

Lighting is everything … Oliver does a fantastic job with lighting, there’s a ridiculous amount of it in such a small trailer, but it’s all white. Not restful at night, a reddish light just like a campfire does wonders for slowing you down at the end of the day before going to sleep. And the problem is LED’s are just too actinic, you can’t get a bare LED to soften up, but is there a way? Philips figured it out with the Hue system. I think Hue lights work by having an inner phospher coating. So, use tuned LED’s to excite the phosphor which then gives broadband emission. At any rate its the only LED’s I’ve seen that look good. We’ve got them all over the house and my family is addicted to the soft, warm reddish glow at night. Here’s what I did in the trailer. Now the theory of lighting says three levels ideally. Upper, middle and lower. Oliver follows this, except the upper lights are down spots, ideally you have up spots and the ceiling reflects. Here you can easily get two level lighting with Hue Get a Hue bridge and these lamps. Two desk lamps (for the twin), one for bedside and the other for the dinette. The lampshade looks dark green but that’s reflection, it’s all a soft matching white. Internal battery and you can plug in the charger to the TV plug as shown Two Hue under bed down lights to illuminate the floor. This is surprisingly pleasing and effective, just hide the wires under the carpet and use the plug as shown. Attach with two 3M Commander velcro-velcro non permanent strips and they’ll stay in place for travel. No internal battery, must be powered. And corner of the kitchen. Again battery powered, you can see the charger cable which plugs into the kitchen overhead socket What these do is give soft, out of your eyes ambient light that - while it’s white here during the day - can change color to dark reddish at night. The placement is perfect to cover all the major hidden areas and it creates a triangle of coverage. I can’t tell you how comforting it is to come into a strange place and have your trailer interior lit up with such soft perfect lighting. Then for the outside get the party lights - all controlled by the same Hue bridge (link to the item as I don’t have them set up at the moment. Put them under the awning, suction cups on the side, etc. Plug into the outdoor socket. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Festavia-Ambiance-Dimmable/dp/B0FML94K5G These aren’t cheap but you get what you pay for!

So's your Ollie - nice pic! Bill

Mill Creek COE , Lampe Mo. is pretty darn nice

We should have a pinned Forum Post dedicated to LOW CLEARANCE. Thanks for sharing this.

The Little Golden Gate Bridge near Eureka Springs, Arkansas 9’5” clearance Rolling through the Ozark Mountains from SW Missouri, Mill Creek COE on Table Rock Lake to Eureka Springs Arkansas Dam Site COE Campground on Beaver Lake Running the backroads we ran into the single wide , 5 ton limit , 9’5” Little Golden Gate Bridge sorry we didn’t get better pictures, on a tight curve with traffic. had to back up about 100 yards 😳😳😳

Prior to the shutdown, Oliver was planning something similar to this. The stripped down model was even supposed to have a steel frame, though the aluminum frame was an option. Attached is the brochure for it, along with the options list. sport_22(1).pdf

There are not many decent replacements available, but the iRV RV62 was a good fit on paper. However there were fitment issues because Oliver miss-drilled the Furrion mounting holes so they weren't covered by the IRV faceplate, and the Furrion opening was cut to large so that the IRV mounting screws were on the very edge of the cutout. This was fixed with white JB weld to strengthen the edge holes, and a 3-D printed Bezel to cover the miss-drilled holes (can hardly tell there is a bezel in the picture). Let me know if you need one, I made extras. I'll probably do a post on the modification pretty soon because just the improvement of the controls makes it worth doing. BTW, I'm also annoyed by bright LED's, to the point where I posted a modification on how to dim the main panel switch LED's with in-line resistors. It's called something like "I was awakened by flashing blue lights." The IRV unit goes dim when off, not too annoying at all. Cheers! Geoff

Taking pressure off the wheels did it. Easy peasy after that. I ordered some zerk caps too. I don't think the zerk was clogged.

With some HUGE Dometic A/C unit up top too! And it looks like OTT had to add a full length (glued-on) platform for that klunker A/C to sit on! What a shame (my rant to follow)... 🙃 I know many of you are always interested in what's new in Ollie-land! But would you trade your Oliver for a new one, if you could? Not me, as I'd have to make all the same corrections and upgrades all over again! It took me two years the first time, but knowing what I know now I could work a 6-month plan to rebuild our wonderful mods! 😎 The only way I would start over, would be if Oliver would sell a hull with no installed options for HALF the cost! No A/C installed, no fans, just the 14x14" openings with the appropriate wiring run. No roof accessories at all, no cable or charging ports down below. And on some future hull design, OTT could shape a round-flat area for the bathroom fan so these fans can sit flat vs. being forced to the curve of the hull by the torque of the installation screws! You'll see this when you replace the fan. No chargers, inverters or batteries, so I could choose Victron and Epoch over limited company brand name offerings. No switches, breakers, busses, and especially manual water valves under the beds! ALL electrical controls installed in one spot, under the rear dinette seat (as ours are today). Why not motorized ball valves for winterizing and boondocking settings? We use the boondocking configuration, adding water from TV tank to FWT about every other week we travel and I certainly would not lift the curbside mattress to do so! 🤣 And for that matter, keep your mattresses or seat cushions as we're going to upgrade them anyway, so why add cost for items that are more often than not replaced. No TV please! Many prefer not having one and we replaced ours with a Samsung 4K 32" Smart Monitor with speaker bar. The radio or Bluetooth speaker are unneccesary too. Don't we all already have a Bluetooth speaker? We have an extra one just for camping, sitting in the nightstand drawer. Windows are no longer flush to the hull. That could be an issue over time with the front edge always taking highway winds. NO silicone caulk please, and no caulk at all on windows and accessories that already have butyl or integrated seals! No nothing installed where any contract installer would need to drill holes into the hull. Please allow me to install these items with VHB tape or other means (including rooftop solar panels without mounting screws). I've sadly removed 40-50 drill-holes from our hull, adding fiberglass fill and I truly dislike this kind of unnecessary repair work. No entrance door hook, drilled into the door and hull. Just add Lippert friction hinges instead. Please install D52 axles on Alcan Springs, or I would have to do that again too! Except for the OEM rooftop solar panels and MaxxFan, every item I've mentioned in this post, everything attached, has been replaced in our hull with something better! After 1700 hulls manufactured, over 10 years later, does OTT truly know what us "Oliver Owners" like and dislike about their travel trailers? I've list enough items, but could keep doing so... These items are not on the company radar! My vision isn't for most of you who want the complete Oliver with your choice of options. But for me, what I've described would be utopia and it would be fun to do it all again on a clean hull! 😎

@HDRider hey -- thanks for the help! And I just answered your question about zerks, and I hope it helped you out. Gotta love the OTT Forum. :)

I had a lot of difficulty in the past -- but resolved my issue. You say you know why, but didn't explain the root cause in your post, so I don't know if my issue was the same... My best solution was to use this: Tandem Trailer Tire Changing Ramp -- it takes the pressure off the tire that is being obstinate. Works like a charm! I hope this helps you. ADDED INFO: I bought some spare zerks as one of mine was messed up. They do come out, but I think it took a tool (I had a very nice guy help me in southern Colorado do that; I provided the spare zerk and he replaced it because I didn't have the strength or the right tool at the time.) MORE ADDED INFO: I always keep my zerks covered with those yellow grease fitting caps, and I believe they are a plus. Grease Fitting Caps

Turns out my receiver is 2.5” not 3” I went with a BW tow and stow with a 5” drop. I am very impressed with the quality of this hitch.

Thanks good points. Yeah it’s just HDMI straight to a small DVD player. It’s possible a different DVD player wouldn’t have this trouble. I’m an audiofool and have Stax electrostatic headphones at home as my reference. Small enough to bring with me if I wanted, but I just am looking for decent sounding audio for movies. This unit is boomy and hollow, typically they’re going for pizzaz and bass boom without any definition. If I could find a discreet pair that has a tight, relatively detailed sound that would work fine. What did you replace the Furrion with? I’ve thought of going back to the standard setup and have a blank space in my wall - if I can run the cables.