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Aransas Bay, Rockport, TX Goose Island State Park, Rockport, TX Top picture sunrise, middle picture Aransas Bay, and bottom picture sunset over the causeway bridge.

Thanks for the reply. We pick up the new rig in 2 weeks - getting fired up!

Yes! It was certainly the problem with our brakes for over a year until we figured it out. I know of others who also had the same issue.

GJ, I am wondering if you could mount one of these to the front of the SeaBiscuit box - https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Transfer-Storage-Container-Motorcycle/dp/ You would need to purchase the locking mount and likely need to reinforce the box to accept the weight of this configuration. Just a lofty thought. You could possibly use this locking mount- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CH355KZX/?_

Busy day on my Ollie, First: If you fixed your battery box support by yourself, you are a stud and have more patience than me. My buddy came over to lend a hand and it saved me at least 45 minutes and several choice words, I'm sure. It's fixed and is now WAY better than it ever was - since it only had a single bolt and no nut for.... who knows how long - likely years. We also used a bottle jack and some 1" wood planks underneath the jack to support it. I did NOT want to crack the grey tank - major concern. But thankfully nearly all the weight held by the jack was where the support bar was also sitting. We used a C-Clamp to straighten up the two bars a bit, not perfectly, but where I felt comfortable. Drilled a new hole and added the same bolt as the original, I actually had in the garage. I was ready with larger stainless steel bolts and nuts, but ended up not using in the end. Used lock tight on both and cranked down on stuff. Also have lock washers and flat washers where appropriate. I will mark the nuts with a metal marker and keep an eye on them. No more internal axle brake wires. Also found the issue with my brakes - thread updated here:

The weather finally cooperated with me today and I fixed a few things on the camper. The last thing fixed was the replacement of the front axle brake wire. Do you think this could have been a problem with my trailer brakes? 🤣 No test drive yet, but I suspect we will no longer have issues with intermittent brakes on the trailer.

I do as well, and would like to have the extra space and security over the OEM basket. At the 2025 Ralley I spoke to the Seabiscuit Team and suggested that they consider an enhancement for the Olivers. My suggestion was to increase the box depth (Fore and Aft) to include jack inside. That would gain about 5" of additional space less the volume of the jack. My only problem, and reason for not following your lead is that without massive solar and a nuclear power plant (600+ amp Litho's), I have to carry a gas can. Not good in a sealed box with stuff that could spark a leak. For safety reasons I would not be safe carrying one in my TV bed (with a sealed cover), in the cab of our TV,or on the back of Ollie. With your set-up would it be realistic to mount a 2 gallon fuel in front of your box in mini basked with a stone guard? Another mod could be to address the gas can issue dirctly. Since gas fumes are heavier than air, maybe having a wire mesh for part of the bottom of the box to keep the box fume level below the lower explosive limit should there be a gas can leak. What do you think? GJ

Hey @ripple963 I actually own an F350 Super Duty and can drop the tail gate with plenty of clearance with no interference. I think you would be fine with clearance on an F150 too. You can call David & Kristine Hess at SeaBiscuit and verify for sure. We really like our SeaBiscuit front cargo box. Everything we need to set up camp is ready an immediately accessibility without having to drop our tailgate. It also saves valuable space in the bed of our truck for other camping gear. Just a note, we have never had any water intrusion in this box which is also a win. Everything we need and nothing we don’t.

With the front box installed on your trailer, does the box interfere with dropping the tailgate of your F150?

Finished adding a shower valve. This should be a lot more functional than the stock setup.

Excellent Mike! hard to determine cable size in a picture. It’s more the load to spec wire gauge and fuse amperage vs. battery type or Ah. If you have a 2KW inverter, 2/0 wire and 250A fuse are fine. 4/0 wire and higher fuse amperage are required to run a 3KW inverter at full capacity. 😎

I don't even use tire minders, but I still installed metal valve stems on all 8 wheels of our rig! And when you replace your valve stems, have them balance your wheels with the tire-minders installed (understood the don't weigh much, but why not?). 😎

I did the same, works great for both trailer and TV tires!

I thought the same and even ordered the BT capable remote only to find out my model Xantrex would not support it and thus, an Amazon return.

I would phrase this D35 good, upgrade to heavier springs better; D52 better, Allan springs even better!

Is Crazy Horse nearby?😁

I would not bet my life on it, but I would bet a beer... especially if it one of Art's home brew's! Each magnet pulls 3 amps, or close to it. You should have 12+ volts at each Dexter drum brake. Measure current flow when energized. Start with measuring all four of them with a clamp on amp meter on the wire going back to the brakes. With the brakes energized, they should be pulling close to12 amps and have around 12V. If so, all is good. If not start inspecting current flow and voltage at each magnet. PS: An easy way to do the above is to just pull the emergency break away to activate all four brakes. But don't leave them locked up for long...... Somebody check my brain on this one. GJ

John, thanks. I’m using 2/0 cables. I asked the Epoch guy and he said 2/0 or bigger. I also have some longer M8 bolts that I ordered just in case. The bolts that came with the batteries work fine. I’m happy with the upgrade!

Mike, very happy for you, on your 600 Ah upgrade! It looks like you used the bolts that came with the Epochs on all 4 posts. I found when the 4/0 lugs were doubled up that the OEM bolts only had a few threads to hold on. Yours might be fine, depends on the thickness of the lugs, but on two I used M8 bolts 5mm longer (see pic).

Battle Borns gone. Epoch’s installed. Hold down straps aren’t on yet.

I got everything from Powerwerx.com, and the plugs are SB175. Here is the covers: https://powerwerx.com/trailer-vision-tvn349380-175-sb175 https://powerwerx.com/trailer-vision-tvn201426-175-sb175

Thanks, I checked out the remote controller, and found the setting thanks. I also tried the FXC app, I thought that would be cool. After playing and looking thing up for 1/2 a day, I found out the remote controller the was shipped with the Oli doesn't have the bluetooth function. Not sure if I will spend the $100 for a new controller to have a cool function.

Well, I was waxing Ollie and had the spare tire cover off. Crazy Horse rode by and thought I was rotating the trailer tires. He asked "Will you be rotating the spare in the process". I stared up at him and with a serious face said "Well of course everybody does that!". He asked "Where will it go". I replied right where it is now, but I'll rotate it 180 degrees so the rubber does not sag". He rode off pondering that further. GJ

Pretty neat device. Problem I see is that there will be times that the structural "post" will be in compression and tension. This fixture only withstands compresson. So it could be used for that purpose, then a means such as straps or other means to take care of the tension. Not as efficient as jacking it up, drilling a couple of holes and bolting it in place. Cost = 2 bolts/nuts, locktite and time. I have grown to not be a fan of Nylocks. Frankly they can be impossible to take apart when torqued hard. Only way to get them off then is to tighten them until they break or heat them and melt out the plastic. Nether of which I want to do while stand on my head in an enclosed space down there. GJ