Leaderboard

Found this, it indicated that the anode can look pretty darn scruffy and still be entirely serviceable. Just because it has some holes, don't toss it. They are not cheap. EDIT 08/29/19 ... this old thread lost its picture. http://www.chinookrvclub.net/careandmaint/anoderodinfo.pdf John Davies Spokane WA

These were made from some scrap 6×6. Cut the length at approximately 11 inches – enough to clear the onboard jacks on level ground – and sand lightly. Take a piece of scrap rope (I used plastic/nylon rope because it does not absorb water) at about 9 inches, heated the ends to stop fraying and added a bit or heat shrink tape for good measure. Then using an electric wire staple attach it to one side, bunch it up a little so that you have enough room to side your hand under it and then attach the other side. Finally, give it a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and you are the pride of the neighborhood. Certainly a good, simple winter project. Bill

Randy - I really didn't round off the corners, other than sanding them a little bit more, than the rest of the block prior to the poly application. I have used them on end without difficulty. The handles make the blocks easier to deal with, easier to see when leaving a campsite so I don't leave them, keep my hands/gloves cleaner and drier and reduces the chance of splinters. John - These blocks are not used to raise the Titanic. Since I rarely camp during the winter, they are rarely used in sub-freezing temps. The application of the poly was intended to prevent water absorption and make them last a bit longer. The main purpose is for use as "stabilizers", fine tuning the level of the camper and as Steve says to save time, lessen the use of power to the jacks, and reduce the risk of a bent jack. If I need to "level" the Oliver to any great extent, I normally use either "legos" or ramps under the tires on the low side. No, I do not use these for winter storage - they are too pretty to be left out all winter ;) Camp12 - Welcome also! In addition to Steve's comments, I've found that these can be used when my campsite is not very level (think mainly boondocking here) and I need the extra height on the low side - I really don't like extending the jacks to the limit if I can help it mainly due to the torque that might be applied to them.

Good morning Canoe12 and welcome to the Oliver Forums. The Oliver electric jacks do extend far enough to not use any blocks at all. It's just with the use of a tall block we have discovered several benefits: 1 - Time saved in running the jacks as you don't have to run them all the way down (and back up) 2 - Energy saved in not running the jacks so much (they are hogs) 3 - Less chance of accidentally driving off with them fully extended and bending the jack (you will simply drive off the block)

Buzzy, I agree with you. While I'd love to camp in the Ollie without ever dumping the grey/black tanks, I don't find the task to be terribly onerous. I purchased a clear Campco sewer hose adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016V2JMBS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and upgraded my slinky hose after the sewer hose that came with the Ollie came apart as I was preparing to dump-luckily I hadn't opened the valve yet! I've traveled 4,500 miles and camped over 40 nights in my Oliver since picking it up in Tennessee in March, 2016. I have only waited in line once and then I was only behind one camper. I don't like to rush the process, so I plan when and where I'll dump. I like to fill the black tank about 3/4 full of fresh water at least twice after dumping the black and grey tanks. The clear adapter allows me to see when I've done a good job of emptying and cleaning the black tank. I haven't had any odor issues. I try to use campground toilets and showers when available and I've very stingy with water when washing dishes, etc. There may be better alternatives, but the standard toilet, black/grey tanks and dump valves serve their purpose. Don