Leaderboard

With all the talk lately about not being able to access all of the fresh water in the tank, I decided to make a new suction line and improve the situation. The stock line on mine will only draw water down to about 1 1/2" deep before it begins to suck air. In a 35 gallon tank that is only about 4" deep, this means about 1/3 of the water is not available, or about 11 or more gallons left in the tank. The stock pickup is on the side of the tank and cannot get all the water. So I made a top fitting that goes down and picks up the water at or below 1/4" from the bottom. When I started the installation I leveled the trailer and ran the water until it began to suck air. Mine did that at a reading of 25% on the gauge. If the front of the trailer is raised some, which I did not do, the reading would still be the same when the pump sucked air because the gauge reads right next to the pickup. You could get more water out of the tank with a raised tongue, but the gauge reading would be the same when it sucked air. After I installed the new dip tube, I continued to draw water and it began to suck some air at 6%. So, mine went from 25% (approx. 8 gallons left) down to 6% (approx 2 gallons left) when it began to get some air. Others have reported as much as 38% remaining which would be over 12 gallons. At a 6% reading I began getting aerated water, but a steady flow. Finally, the gauge went to 0% left. At that point is was about 1/2 water and 1/2 air at the faucet, but still flowing, or spitting. But even with a zero on the gauge it continued to pump out another gallon or so before I shut it off. All of this with cold only, not water drawn from the water heater. So, the volume from 6% to 0% was totally useable, probably not for a shower, but certainly for drinking. This is a prototype that works well, but it might still improve a bit with the next one. The pickup touches the bottom of the tank, but draws radially from below 1/4". It adjusts to any small differences in various tanks. It can be pulled out and cleaned easily if debris ever clogs it. All plumbing connections, where the new line ties in, are easily accessible and the existing tank fittings are not touched. The stock tank drain is retained. The area of the tank where the new fitting is installed is easily reached and the tools to do it all fit in the available space. After clearing all of this with Oliver to make sure there is no conflict with forum rules or warrantee issues with them, I can send anyone that wants to do this, a kit with the following: the pre-made dip tube fitting, a Polyethylene tank fitting, the special spin weld fitting driver, a 1 1/2" hole saw (if needed), the pinch ring tool and a PEX cutter. I'll also provide step by step directions for anyone who is interested. You'll have to have a powerful router with a 1/2" collet and a drill to drive the hole saw. Or, I can help you with a set of directions here on-line and you can assemble the parts yourself. The parts required are: (1) dip tube assembly, (1) 3/4" spin weld fitting, (6) 1/2" PEX pinch rings, 24" 1/2" PEX, (1) 1/2" PEX ball valve, (1) 1/2" PEX tee, a small container of Rectorseal 5. The only real tricky part is the spin weld. Besides the special procedure for spin welding itself, you have to make a new hole in the tank and vacuum out the chips. Here are some pictures:

I know this is an old thread but no point starting a new one - I found that the OXO drawer organizers are pretty much a perfect fit for the Oliver drawers. The large ones are 16.5" wide and can be expanded to fit the depth perfectly, and their silverware tray at 15.5" is only an inch smaller in width than the drawer and the depth at 9.75" just a smidge shorter than the smaller top drawer. It will expand in depth also, but that extra quarter inch isn't going to be very useful. Like other OXO stuff, they're a bit more expensive than other options, but they're good quality and I like that they will fit just right and that the dividers can be customized. On a related note, does anyone else wish that Oliver would put the deeper drawers on the bottom? That's the usual arrangement and I typically find that the larger stuff is most often the least used. I'm thinking that I may change mine around after delivery.

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/fob-ollie-larry-mountainborn-harmon/

Well, there's not much I could say that hasn't been said!! The Oliver is the best trailer on the market and it IS backed by an outstanding company!! We took delivery of our Ollie in December!! So welcome to the Oliver family from Hull #189.

Welcome to the family!!! So glad you had a great "first" trip!! Wishing you many more happy memory making adventures in your Oliver!! We took delivery in December....so welcome from Hull #189!!

Reed, Now imagine that the new fitting I've shown has a TEE in it, between the tank and the top of the pickup. In other words, the new pickup reaches down through a larger pipe with a TEE in it. Off the side of that TEE is a line going to your gravity fill port. This way, you could use the same tank fitting for both purposes, a dip tube and a tank fill. I have ordered 1" fittings for the next installations. This will allow room for the fill port, if desired, and a port big enough to get a small Vacuum hose into to clean the tank. One fitting will allow for the new pickup, a clean out port and a gravity fill port if desired. I did not think of a gravity fill port until you mentioned it, but it should integrate in well.

We can say enough - the people, the quality and luxury, it's just magical. Hope to see you on the road.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the cleaning and drying thing. I usually use a 5 gallon solar shower with my enclosure. Even taking a fairly long shower I always have at least a gallon of water left when I'm done and I use most of this to spray down the walls and floor of the enclosure when I'm done. This tends to keep most of the soap and anything that I tracked in to a minimum. As far as drying - given the usual low humidity out West, the nylon tent fabric dries rapidly. In the event that it rains or that it doesn't dry I simply wad it up into a garbage bag and throw it into the bottom of the Oliver shower until I get to the next camp. If I'm not setting it up again I simply lay it over the picnic table (or similar) until it is dry. Yes, au natural is a great option - when possible. Bill

Even though I do not have satellite TV in my Oliver I do have it at my house. A year or so ago I looked into the possibility of putting it in Twist. Directv does have an RV program but it wasn't as flexible as the one available from Dish (pay only for when you are using it like Mike said). Think about how and when you might be using this equipment. Certainly it is convenient to have your "dish" on the roof of the Oliver with automatic satellite finders, etc. However, if you are camped in a spot under trees or some other structure is blocking the needed view for "connection" to a satellite then you will be out of luck or required to move the Oliver. Also, if you want to use the equipment for "tailgating" or party of some other sort, you will be out of luck unless you bring the Oliver along for the party. As a final thought - I've seen this type of equipment being sold on Craig's list at a price some 50% less than new. If you have the time you just might want to keep an eye out for a deal. Bill

Before we got Mouse we tent camped and used a sun shower hung from a tree, and ocassionally one of those nylon enclosures. I prefer au natural in the open, but if there are people around you can always wear a small swinsuit and get just as clean. The enclosures work OK but then you have to deal with cleaning them, drying them out and storing them away. Frankly it is a pain in the butt. I don't think they are worth the effort unless the person bathing is really shy. Then you can make them clean it. If it is warm and clear, and minimal wind, these work very well after a few hours of cooking under the sun. .... https://www.amazon.com/Stearns-Sun-Shower-Portable/dp/B000NVC1JY John Davies Spokane WA