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!!All right then!! Good idea to get access through the tank gauge opening. Note to Oliver: As far as I know, the National Electric Code requires access to all connections. It also requires that a switch or receptacle needs enough extra wire to be pulled out of its box at least 6" for maintenance or repair/replacement. There should be an access port inside the hidden compartment and don't skimp on your wire! Glad you're up and running again! Dave

Success at last! For those interested and for anyone who runs across the same issue here goes. The fast tab connectors had indeed come loose from the pump switch located under the pantry. I removed the 4 screws holding the backing plate for the battery, water, gray water & black water gauge which provided just enough light and access but only if you have very small hands. Effectively when the Oliver crew terminated these wires to the switch they provide absolutely no slack at all, and in fact those wires were pulled quite tight and in the large harness with a bunch of other wires. The weight of the harness with tight wires pulled them from their connections. I re-terminated all three of the double pole switch wires with two foot long extensions of 12 AWG wiring. Tested the system before reinstalling the entire enchilada and it all worked fine. Hopefully no one else has to go through this because it is a major PITA to accomplish. I did not have to drill any holes either in the battery box or hidden compartment either, however it would have provided far better access to do so from the compartment. As Dave pointed out one can wiggle the switch out of its socket with a putty knife and flat head screw driver, but start with the putty knife first. The bathroom switch comes out much easier just wiggling and pulling with your fingers. And oddly enough they provided plenty of slack with the bathroom switch. I'm attaching a few relevant photos for future reference. Hope this helps. The first image is provides the size of the cut out hole once the plate is removed for the battery, water etc gauge. Its small, the second image shows correct wiring for the switch, note the purple wire is always in the middle, and the gray & brown wire to the outside terminals. It matters not which terminal the gray and brown wires are attached to, same for the bath switch which is the 3rd image.

You can run the jumper from the right rear jack, that would be easy enough anyway. Then below shows you the pump circled in blue but these are the 2017 schematics And once again without the Blue marks You can see from the schematic that if the broken line is one of the 3way switch lines, that it will take some work to trace it and replace it, but it can be done most likely with a second person to help feel the wire tension. Ours is all ran in plastic Flex conduit which makes it pretty easy... Sometimes...but if you locate one wire, then you can just pull 2 wires with it to just replace both. Or... You can forget the bathroom switch for now if you find those 2 lines are where the problem is because the main power goes from the converter straight to the bathroom 3way switch that you see in purple. So if any of those 3 lines are broken, it's going to be a pain. You could pull the bathroom switch and then connect the 3 lines together there and that will show you which of the 3 is broken. If there's no power at all then it's the purple line from the bathroom to the converter. Reed

Just in case anyone is headed to the Cape Hatteras/Outer Banks area, please be advised. 10,000 vacationers ordered off island. http://time.com/4877991/outer-banks-north-carolina-power-outage/

It is pretty plain to see if your fuse has blown. If they look to be in good shape, then I would really recommend looking at the switch connections. Those spade connectors can easily slide off if not crimped correctly and/or if you travel rough roads. In my Elite, one of the two switches is in the kitchen sink cabinet. I pulled out a drawer to get access to the back side. For you, with the switch under the pantry, I don't know. There has to be an access hatch somewhere. The cover plate for these switches will not come off as far as I can tell, however, the switch itself can be popped out of the cover plate (use a plastic putty knife so no scratches). Less room to work, but you can at least check all the connections. The bathroom switch may not pop off the same way, haven't tried it, I'd ask Jason about that. If any one of the connections to those two switches has come loose, the pump will not work! Just my two cents. Please let us know what the issue ends up being. Good luck! Dave

Recently finished a 7,000 mile trip over three-plus weeks, and we were well taken care of by Ollie. No issues whatsoever, running the gamut from boondocking to overnights at KOA in all kinds of weather. Started in NW Florida, up to Utah through TX & NM, over to Yellowstone, Tetons, explored Wyoming, headed east through Montana, ND, and across to Canada at Sault Ste Marie, Ontario, Quebec and ended in Downeast Maine. Will explore some of the Canadian Maritimes as best we can this summer. As a heads-up, the only thing that went unnoticed the whole trip- the nut that holds the spare tire cover on loosened up about 1/3 of the way over 7,000 miles. Worth checking now and then to make sure it's tight. (TV averaged 18.9 mpg for the trip)

I noticed while washing the trailer....the cover looked slightly mis-aligned, so checked the nut. Took about 6 or 7 full turns to tighten it back up. Also, regarding washing...for those new to fiberglass and gel coat.... after owning several boats and now the Oliver, it's surprising the seemingly innocuous things that can cause a stain...in boats, suntan lotion, kids spilling juice, etc. can cause a stain that's very difficult to get out. Tree sap, bugs and unidentifiable road grime can as well. All this to say don't wait until the end of the season to wash your rig if you can help it. Helps to avoid little annoying stains that you wished you had taken care of sooner.