Leaderboard

I don’t really know where the pressure regulator conversation came from other than the op had his set very low. If he has a leak, excessive pressure is an unlikely cause. More likely a bad installation or freezing. The comment above is correct however that what Oliver supplies isn’t actually a pressure regulator. It may help with hammering but not prolonged high pressure. Though I really don’t know how much it matters. I have a nice pricy stainless regulator and use it, but only to protect against back pressure on the pump (and also because I have a weak pressure valve on my water heater that I need to replace). If the system is properly put together you’d probably need a pressure spike of over 500psi to pop a fitting. Even then probably only to the press fit fittings, which, disregarding the mess, you could just slide back on. The other stuff I’d bet would take prolonged pressure of 750psi plus, which is what it would take to actually burst a pipe. PEX and crimped fittings are tough, and resilient to transient pressure spikes. The real enemies of your plumbing are freezing temps and vibration.

I really don't understand this conversation. To say don't use the city water just use the fresh water tank and pump doesn't make much sense. Your paying big bucks for this trailer to have both options. And they should work equally . The pressure regulator that Ott provides. is a factory preset pressure regulator and are widely used with no problem. They may have gotten a bad batch. It happens, not the fault of Ott. Of course if there is a leak from pipes/ connection then yes Ott problem. To spend big dollars for a fancy regulator with gage and adjustment knob is just personal preference I have used the brass type and the plastic type for years no problems. And always keep a spare just in case.

The city water connection goes straight to the taps - for water to get from there to the fresh tank, it has to force its way backwards through the pump. That's what Mike's talking about above. There's a check valve on the pump that can leak, letting city water go past and into the fresh tank. If that happens with a full fresh tank, then water will come out of the overflow by the door. You should probably clarify where the water is coming out. You said the overflows by the city water inlet. The only overflow is from the fresh tank and is located just rear of the front door. It has a white mushroom fitting on it. All of the stainless clamshell openings are weeps to let condensation out. I'm assuming that you mean the latter. I'd hook back up and look again for the leak. Sometimes things look tight but aren't. But I suspect that if you don't see the leak at an elbow in the rearmost corner, then you'll have to pull the basement floor. That is, logically, the only other places for a 'city water only' leak would be the connection to the inlet or the check valve in line behind it. Actually, come to think of it, I think everything beyond the check valve, which includes that elbow above, is pressurized by the pump when drawing from the fresh tank. So the leak has got to be either at the inlet or the check valve.

The slightly older Oliver models (mine is a 2016) have the Blue Sky MPPT Solar controller, and this controller has an accurate battery monitor built in to it. If you push the Next button on the Blue Sky remote, the unit wakes up and displays the first screen, the BATTERY VOLT/AMP screen which shows the battery voltage and the net battery current. If you touch the Next button again it switches to the second INPUT CHG OUT screen which displays the input and output currents. Touching the Next button again brings up the BATTERY CAPACITY screen which displays the battery capacity as percent remaining, i.e. 70% or 100% if full. Of course, for the BATTERY CAPACITY screen to be accurate you have to correctly program the remote with info on your batteries. A lot of useful information is available on an earlier thread HERE. I have summarized these programming steps for my AGM batteries in a document which I am happy to send to anyone interested. I used to use an AGM battery chart (HERE) where 100% is 12.84 volts and 50% is 12.24 volts. However, the battery voltage would often not agree with the battery capacity on the Blue Sky remote. For example the battery voltage might say 12.4 volts, but the battery capacity would read 80% full. Additionally, when the batteries are nearly full and charging, the battery voltage often reads well above 13 volts, much higher than the 12.84 volts that represents 100%. I talked to Blue Sky technical support about this apparent discrepancy, and they told me the battery capacity was the much more accurate reading.

I had a very hard time finding fuses for the jacks. I went to a bunch of auto parts stores, looked online at Amazon and others, but was unsuccessful. I finally found them here: https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/bussmann-mdl-30/slow-blow-fuse-30-amp-p-bus-mdl30 The price says $1.62, but they sell then in lots of five, so it is $8.10 for five. And they tacked on shipping charges...