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I am totally unfamiliar with the Isotherm refrigerators, but the first thing I would check would be to make sure the compressor is actually running while temps are above the setpoint and if not then test the thermistor for correct resistance. I would also check to make sure that I'm getting full voltage to the unit, and that the condenser coils were clean and cooling fan(s) were operating if it has them. Could be a refrigerant leak that's causing it, but in my experience, more often than not it's something other than low refrigerant levels when there's a lack of cooling.

John, We have found the Garmin RV 890 to be invaluable on our extended 43 and 48 day trips in the last two years. Super intuitive and my copilot/nav can pull it off the dash mount and quickly look up and map up just about anything CG, site seeing or travel related. We also programmed our trailer height which provides plenty of warning and keeps us off those routes. A nice piece of tech that simplifies our travel experience. I would buy again.

Probably for good reason! Bill

You might be right and just replacing it. There are some size restrictions, so replacing it will most likely mean with the same unit. If you have time to investigate other options look at the drawer fridge freezers. I know several of my old truck camper buddies installed the drawer type and were very happy.

I guess my concern is that getting a mobile tech to come look at it will cost what a new one would, and then I would still have to buy the new one. (Facepalm) Some people are scared of spiders, I’m scared of hiring skilled professionals 😆

Our hull is near 10 years old. The PVC was dried out, chalky to say the least and I wanted to replace it last year but never got around to it. It took me over an hour on Amazon to find one with exact measurements. Most important is the diameter of the screw hole pattern. I found this and after installing it, I like it's better than the OEM. The threads are much larger, easier to turn with less/wider threads, and it seals better. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H4HX29J?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 As with all things OTT installs, it took me a full hour of labor to remove the silicone caulk. I installed the new one with dum-dum ONLY (what us installers called butyl tape back in the day). Why would you caulk something that does not have to be waterproof anyway? The bottom side of the doghouse is wide open, right? And butyl when squeezed out is waterproof enough. The original hatch had tiny screws, maybe 1/2" #6 screws. I upped the size to 3/4" #8 screws, drilled the holes out to 9/64" and on the back side I used speed clips on the underside to hold them tight. This way you can torque the 6 screws tightly and evenly to squeeze the butyl. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H8STNFJ/?th=1

When a couple of exterior hunks of plastic like this hatch started to show signs of ugliness I took them off, cleaned them VERY well and then used Krylon rattle can paint to make them like new again. Certainly a bunch less expensive and even a couple of items (like the jack switch cover and the 110 ac cover) that I did about five years ago are still looking good. Bill

You done good! Here is an excerpt from Mechman’s Alternator Installation instructions, wherein 4 AWG is shown to be sufficient for your 180A alternator.

Thank You edit Fantastic , we have the Xantrex 3000 inverter and the lithium pro 3x130 ah , not sure if we can heat water on the inverter but we kinda always thought using the electric heating element if we had shore power and propane if we didn’t have shore power had no idea that I was so smart that I had turned on the water heater using both gas and shore power and didn’t even know it ! appreciate the help !

OK. If you have the electric switch on the outside in the "on" position and then turn the water heater switch that is inside the Oliver to the "on" position AND you are plugged into shore power, you will have BOTH electric and propane "on" at the same time. This will actually heat the water inside the Suburban faster than either of the two would heat it alone and it should not "harm" either heating system. If you are not connected to shore power then having the outside electric switch in the "on" position will not do anything since unless you have modified the original 110 volt wiring inside the Oliver. Bill

The interior switch turns the HWH on LP only (located under the pantry, in our hull). To turn the Suburban HWH on by 120VAC shore power, there is a switch outside. You have to open the exterior cover plate and you should find it in the lower left corner, a bit hidden by other hardware. See @Mike and Carol's post above. He leaves it on and when connected to shore power it would automatically turn on by electric power. When they boondock, then he would would flip the interior switch to power by LP. Nobody has been able to explain on this forum how OTT wires the Lithium Platinum package which I assume includes the 3KW Xantrex inverter/charger. Is it wired to ALL 120VAC circuits? If so, and if you have the Suburban HWH with dual AC/LP capability, then YES, you can run it off inverter as I explained in my first post above.

John - With the relatively low height of the Oliver, I've never had a "problem" with height for overpasses and/or bridges. Since I travel alone a fair percentage of the time, I find that the large screen of the Garmin 890 really helps, plus, I don't use any of my cell phone data with the Garmin. Also, the Garmin will automatically re-route me in the event of an accident or road closure or simply heavy traffic (if it determines that there is a quicker route available). Having said all this - I do also use the Ford Navigation on longer trips. There have been a few times when arriving at an intersection, the Garmin and the Ford do not give the same directions. If I'm not familiar with the roads and/or where I'm headed, I'll usually default to the Garmin. Bill

I don't have an RV specific GPS but I have been in areas where there was no cellular service, the on-board truck navigation ( based on cellular ), Google maps, and Apple Maps would not work as a result. I'm glad that I had my old Garmin GPS. I would imagine that an RV specific GPS would be helpful. I know that maps can be downloaded and used off-line but I never seem to be able to remember to do that.

Yes, given you have a 3KW inverter wired to all circuits, including the hot water heater (HWH). If I remember correctly, OTT wires the 2KW Xantrex inverters to 110 outlets only, which includes the microwave, but not the fridge, A/C or the HWH. Our 3KW Victron inverter is wired to all AC circuits, so I've done this a few times when we first get to a campsite when battery SOC% is high. If I remember correctly, it takes 20+ minutes to heat up the 6-gal Suburban. Ours SOC decreased 8% and based on our total 600Ah that comes to 48, call it 50Ah of power used. Don't run the HWH and A/C on inverter at the same time! Then I suggest switching the HWH to run on LP. If it's windy out the HWH can cycle often. We turn ours off after dinner dishes and back on again in the morning. I do not like hearing it turn on while in bed (or wasting energy). When on LP you can certainly hear it fire up. When on 120VAC power it is much quieter, just a soft whine. I leave the outdoor AC switch always in the ON position and unless we want it on AC, we leave the breaker in the 120VAC power panel OFF. This keeps from having to go outside and take down the awkward panel to access the switch. And of course there is the interior switch to power the HWH on/off by LP gas. Hope this helps. Best wishes, JD

Unfortunately we purchased 1364 from the original owner, so no factory warranty for us. Jason looked at it when we were at the Texas Rally last year and suggested possibly putting additional insulation in the wall behind the fridge. I also got advice on recharging it. I thought I would have to put in a pin valve but I found the artfully concealed recharge port under the shrink tubing and tape. I can’t even find anyone who will work on the thing (as hard as it is for me to admit I am out over my skies on this). I called the Isotherm dealer in Dallas who basically said they did not do service but if we wanted to roll the dice again and buy a new one they would be happy to help. Currently it’s 77 in the evening here in Central Texas. The camper interior is 78.2 and the fridge is 60. The high point for the day (84 degrees high) was 62 - not sufficient to keep food safe. The overnight low on the fridge interior was 52. I must admit I am stumped.