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I use the same thing. It gets me high enough that I can lift the 30 pounder up over the fiberglass.

We travel with a lightweight work platform. It comes in handy for many things, including easier access to the 30 lb propane tanks. They're not nearly as difficult to remove and replace using the platform as they would be if I were standing on the ground

Right tighty, lefty loosey. You'll get some little bit of gas when everything is closed, but just a tiny bit. If you get more than a bit, you have a faulty valve, or didn't actually close it.

Taken minutes ago, more heavy lifting assist; fully loaded Dometic CFX 75DZ fridge/freezer hoisted and positioned into the Savana.

Yep!

Residual gas in the trailer LP plumbing would NOT be enough to start a flame on the stovetop at all, or if it did so it would burn out in seconds. I believe one/or both of your tank valves is/are either open or bad. If you can truly run the cooktop for any length of time, the tank valve is OPEN. We always run gas through the cooktop for a few seconds (lit or not) before turning the fridge to LP, turning on the HWH, or furnace, to bleed the lines with pure gas up to that point. However, for gas to flow from an LP tank, both the internal valve has to be open and the LP line with the correct connector needs to be attached. Both the valve open AND the line connected is necessary for LP gas to be released from the tank (redundancy for safety). Either it's something as simple as your tanks valve(s) are NOT closed (righty-tighty), or you valve is bad, failed in an open position and it's not apparent until the line is connected that the valve is actually open. Hope this helps! This Q&A on this website explains: https://www.propane101.com/valveopennopropane.htm

Yes, I buy at our local Ford dealership. A few years ago, they changed their rules where they would not fill LP tanks on RVs or trailers directly. The answer I got was it was causing accidents in RVs backing out of the small lot and the fact that large rigs were blocking deliveries to their parts department and traffic to their showroom. So at home I back up our truck on an angle to get as close as possible, stand up on the tailgate so I can lift the tank(s) straight up. Easier to do so for those of us without truck caps. I tie the tanks in the rear of the bed. Aluminum tanks will not reduce weight significantly, expect they’re some lighter when empty and they’re very expensive. If you’re not able to lift your tanks, you could replace them with 20# tanks. Or you could add a hoist: https://a.co/d/8f4i9gl I’ve got this item on my long list. I also have a very heavy fire ring in the front Oliver basket. Much heavier due to the steel surround I built and for the solid lava rocks. It would be great to hoist this item to my tailgate where I could get a good grab on it! @Ronbrink has a crane hoist mounted to the front of his Oliver to unload his van (see his Van post in Towing). I’m not sure if his is positioned to also lift the LP tanks. I would mount mine rear of my open truck bed, close enough to reach the LP tanks and being truck mounted I could use it to load the truck when not towing too.

Yes, exactly.

According to AI: "No, propane tanks are not required to be on the ground to be refilled; in fact, for safety and stability, above-ground tanks must be placed on a solid, level surface, like a concrete slab. While some tanks are buried underground, the key requirement for refilling is accessibility for the delivery truck, not a specific placement on the ground. Above-ground tanks Placement: Must be placed on a stable, level surface like a concrete slab or compacted granite to prevent instability from water runoff. Accessibility: The tank needs to be easy to access, with the propane truck able to get within about 80 feet. Safety: The area should be well-ventilated and clear of obstructions like trees, shrubbery, or power lines that could cause damage or block access. " I suspect that what you are running into are local dealer (or even national chain store) standard practices that are designed to lessen the loads that workers have to carry/lift combined with their not wanting to be held liable for damages to RV's and/or other structures due to troubles getting tanks in/out of reasonably confined spaces. As we all know, propane tanks are not light and getting them in/out of our Ollies is not the easiest task regardless of the tanks being full or empty. Frankly, I insist on taking these tanks in/out all by myself because I don't want damage done to my Oliver by someone that simply isn't as careful. There have been a number of discussions here on the Forum over the years about aluminum/fiberglass tanks and I'm certain that at least one owner has them. Good luck! Bill

So true, enter Cielo Breez Max!

Agreed! Atmos was first, advertised as "German Engineered." The German company made the mistake of so many global manufacturing companies. They decided to maximize profits (short-term) by manufacturing in China, where the CCP has no qualms re patent infringement! (This happened to EVERYTHING Motorola manufactured in China during the 90s, and a significant factor to the demise of Motorola, one of the great 20th-century American companies in communications electronics.) GREE is a Chinese appliance co: https://global.gree.com/ They built the original Atmos and go figure once they had they had the manufacturing technology in-house they "re-branded" the appliance in their Tosot name. They built both products, so likely they are equal in design and manufacturing, or did they cut corners which can be true with knockoffs? @mountainoliver Ken and I both observed Ron's Atmos at the 2024 Texas Rally. The Atmos A/C in Ron's hull was SUPER quiet and efficient, dropping 10 points in both temp and humidity in just 40 minutes, midday Texas weather on the lakes at 85F and humid, while you could hardly notice it's running! Ken, recently had SDG install the Tosot (would like to get Kevin's (of SDG) gossip on Atmos vs. Tosot!). Ken created a post on his Tosot and I believe he now knows his Tosot is equivalent to Ron's Atmos. If we were ones to visit FHU campsites often, I would purchased the GREE product today hands-down. Since we more often dry-camp and rarely summer camp, I'm still waiting, running the awful Dometic P2 when forced to by unexpected heat in our travels! More often our A/C is running during August while parked outside at home, thermostat set to 85F so that the AZ sun doesn't cook the hull interior! I can hear the friggin' thing running 100 ft away! But the only good feature of the P2 is it turns off completely in AUTO mode. Ours will run in the heat of the afternoon and turn itself OFF from sun down 'til about noon the next day on a hot summer day. It's truly too bad all these new RV A/C products are designed to run the fan continuously! More often off-grid? It appears an Inverter A/C will run on near half the power, Ah consumption. Inverter A/C products for the 14x14" RV rooftop installation are new technology and limited in product offerings. Dometic has one, but not in the US market. Houghton likely the same. Current offerings are the Turbro Greenland and Pioneer (again the same thing rebranded) and we have a few threads on these products.

Just to be sure: clockwise to close.

Camp without Wi-Fi in the year 2025? “Don’t leave home without it!” 🤣