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Hull #435: I have had intermittent power issues with my front tongue jack. Many times getting ready to leave a campground and the darn thing just doesn't have power. It always started working again?? It seemed like after manually raising or lowering it all the sudden it was working again. I have checked the fuse, changed the switch, and still kept getting the intermittent issue. I assumed it must be an electrical short issue (which is always hard to find). With some help from my nephew who is an electrician I have finally solved the problem. The whole time it was a poor ground connection. I believe the ground connection was made through the metal tongue jack being bolted to the frame as the ground wire was coming from the top of the motor assembly. I ran a new ground wire and it now works perfectly. In fact the motor runs better than ever and the light is brighter! My last step will be to weather proof the hole I drilled for the wire to keep water out of the motor.

FYI those with later model 16” Sumec wheels. I checked an older photo I had from my 2021 E2 and can see weight rating is 3300 lbs. I cannot see the max pressure rating on the photo but will check next time I have the wheels off. Although not as beefy as the older 16” Sendel wheels, it’s re-assuring that they are more than adequate.

The Will Rogers museum is excellent and a terrific Harvest Host location as well! We were there last year around this time. Really enjoyed the museum, Will had quite the personality; we learned a lot! We had full use of the grounds after hours while overnighting there.

The OEM springs will keep you "soft and bouncy" and it will get worse with more miles. Running with more tire pressure, than the tire load tables spec, just isn't smart towing. Terrible roads in most states, NM worse than AZ! We traveled to Minnesota and back last year (still had D35 axles and OEM 1750 springs), headed east and a big loop NW and back. Kansas highways were amazing in excellent condition. Western Colorado surprised me as being very nice roads. Texas roads are good in most places. Most other places, you bouncy around, potholes and bridge seems that will bottom out the Oliver (if still on OEM springs). @Geronimo John went with Dexter 2400 LB rated springs to save $$$, not sure why else? My take, they're made with the same China steel and heavier weight does not mean they cannot fail structurally in the same way as the lighter model. Go with the Alcan 4-pack if you're OK with spending some more and want less spring. The Alcan 5-pack is perfect for us and I would NEVER go back! 😎 Like your last comment! I've had issues with the sanity of Design Engineers my entire life! 🤣

I had the same issue with my Honda 2000 generator blowing. Like @Tom and Doreen said you can change the setting on your Xantrex to lower the draw. Here is a link to the generator topic with instructions on how to adjust the setting.

We were at the Will Rogers museum in Claremore, OK and found a kind unexpected hello greeting note under our windshield wiper from locals Kelley & Debi of Hull 1535. Thanks and hello back from Mary & Bill of Hull 1246 from Wisconsin. Be well.

You can see from my truck I'm not afraid to stick out like a sore thumb 😅Thanks for not taking offense. Really I'm just figuring this out for myself, I wasn't designed to take things for granted. On the 1750's I was a skeptic, then mostly a convert, but its still pending taking data. Here I'm a skeptic of airing down, don't expect to convert, but also am waiting for data. I suspect I'll end up with 1750's and 65 PSI, but we'll see. Most likely is it's much ado about nothing regardless I wonder. Yeah personal experience towing back from the factory to California was two things. One the trailer did feel a bit soft and bouncy. Two, I'm quite sure I bottomed out the trailer suspension hard on numerous occasions. Arizona freeways in particular were pretty bad. Terrible porpoising around Albuquerque with bottoming, and hard bottom hits elsewhere. So bad you heard the slam. Anecdotally hand waving, but this makes me suspect a too compliant suspension. If you're worried about jarring, bottoming out is the equivalent of dropping the trailer on the ground with no suspension - high G. At any rate reality is a b*** and as an engineer I'll tell you even the engineers don't know. It's often as much experience and windage than having a hard result. Most of the time we do what's being discussed. Design with extra margin/buffer (e.g. higher rating on the suspension and higher PSI range than lower), then measure in typical conditions. If it looks good, cross your fingers, hope for the best and keep taking data 😅

Here’s a photo of the inside of my original 2017 (hull 208) wheels. You can zoom in and see all of the specifications including the 110 psi pressure rating and load rating for the wheel! I took the picture when the trailer was new and filed it for future reference.

If you have Lithionics batteries, you should check their Firmware. Mine was three versions outdated! The latest version of Firmware includes upgrades and corrections to the Battery Management System (BMS) and State Of Charge (SOC) accuracy. The Firmware can be checked and updated with the Lithionics Application. Go to settings and pick “Firmware Update.” Then press the “Flash Firmware” button if you don't have the latest version. Be sure to up-date each battery.

Hi everyone — I previously did an intro in the introductions section, but my wife and I are new (to us) Oliver owners (about 2 months in). We’ve camped twice so far and already have several trips planned over the next several months, including a lot of boondocking in USFS campgrounds. I've had travel trailers of various forms for about 20 years and we are super excited to now be Oliver owners. I just finished a lithium / inverter / portable solar upgrade on our 2019 Legacy Elite II (Hull 514) and put together a detailed project write-up with photos, wiring approach, parts list, and lessons learned (see attached). The trailer came from the factory without an inverter, no roof solar, and no solar connector. It had two AGM batteries when we bought it. The main goal was a clean, reliable, serviceable install that leverages the existing factory AC/DC wiring/routing and keeps the system simple (including an inline inverter/charger pass-through so the trailer’s AC panel works “like stock,” just with inverter capability). I found great info on this forum as I undertook this project and hope to give back just a little by posting this as a practical reference for anyone planning a similar upgrade — happy to answer questions or share any additional photos/details if it helps. Happy camping!! Lithium Inverter Solar Write-Up.pdf

I just bought four new Concorde AGM's last summer. Hopefully by the time they age-out (unless I age-our first) the new "solid state Lithium" batteries will be readily available. From the available literature, three times the power storage for one half the weight and volume is what to expect. Also, pretty much near zero chance of fire. We live is an amazing time...

Sorry JD, I'm not even going to bite on that one..... Maybe you should re-read all 27? pages of that thread. LOL GJ