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Larger fridge/freezer is nice. Dry bath is nicer with a sink you can actually get your face/head over (as @jd1923 mentioned as a shortcoming in the Oliver). Always tradeoffs of course. Some tradeoffs are apparent (particularly regarding storage) and some are not. And of course, a brand-new company carries some risks as well. Not enough here for me to really consider switching even if I was in the market.

I am 6'3 and quite comfortable in the bed but I sleep on my side. The toilet area for me, however, it a bit cramped for my knees. Perhaps an elongated bowl would be better than the smallish round bowl that comes with it. Other than that, my LE2 will likely be with me for many years to come.

I use the jack stands as well. For everything. They are a bit less stable at max extension, but the way you have them work great and, like you said, the safest way to lift these trailers outside of a professional shop.

Hi all - Perhaps we need a 'free stuff' sub-forum 🙂 Just replaced the propane cover draw latches on our 2021 LE2. Accordingly I have two spares, in good used condition. I'm keeping one 'just in case'. The second one is available for the shipping cost. More info here: https://www.htfhardware.com//240-150-10702.html If you are interested PM me. Thanks Tim

Tim - Please make you wish for a non- trailer (i.e. no trailers for sale or wanted) classified section here on the Forum known to Oliver. Might I suggest an email to Jason Essary and/or Scott Oliver. Why did you replace those latches if they were still in good shape? If I had that type of latch, I'd be all over your generous offer. Thanks a bunch for letting everyone know! Bill

The Tundra has plenty of torque and HP, so pulling is no issue. The limitations I experienced were in going down 6% grades or greater. It just simply feels way too squirrely for my taste. I also had many times where I felt like I was being blown around by passing 18 wheelers or gusts of wind. I got cut off on my last trip and had to lock op the breaks. The trailer tires were smoking and the momentum of the trailer felt like it was pushing the truck forward. The Tundra manual stated weight distribution required for trailers over 5k, I think the elite 2 with lithium ion batteries already exceeds that when dry. I’m pretty sure the Tundra was still within its payload capacity, but likely pretty much maxed out. The Tundra is a great truck, and definitely capable of towing the LE2. But for me personally it was way too stressful, and felt like there was little to no margin of safety. I can afford the new truck, so the price should be worth the better ride. We shall see, I’m taking it out for its first trip with the Oliver tomorrow. I’ll let you know if it lives up to my expectations.

@TimD This forum is not monitored by Oliver TT. You should make that recommendation to Oliver directly. Or maybe one of the monitrators can forward that one to OTT.

Yeah, you noticed in my picture that I stacked an 8" Anderson block plus five 1" blocks for 13" total height. You want the height in the blocks so the jack only extends a few inches. These Barker jacks will extend 18" but I only want about half the length showing.

Do you believe this to be a measure of correctness? I wish OTT always installed accessories correctly in our hull, but their installers made several mistakes. When I first read "button toward the front" I also thought of the power button. But they show a sketch pointing at the release trigger with the wording, "position toward front of coach." If someone posts a different orientation, regardless of it being "installed at the factory" it would still be wrong. I thought the same thing for about 50 ms when I had the new flat fan sitting on the curved Oliver roof. Then I realized, one good rainstorm while highway towing and the butyl would blow out of the large front gap and you'd have rainwater all in the bathroom. Butyl works best for sealing thin gaps. You could 3D-print gaskets with a tall front and rear, if you have that capability. I wrote gaskets plural since the fan must be concave on the outside and convex inside. The plastic frame will curve in place, tightening it little-by-little patiently. I took the day to work ours slowly. A hot sunny day helps to soften the plastic.

The Dometic "Flush Valve Kit" arrived by pony express (3 days) and I installed it late last night. It is the proper part for our model of toilet. However, during re-assembly when I inserted it into the back of the toilet, it did not “Click” as mentioned in the Video or Forum comments. I pressed it in the best I could, but no “CLICK”, removed it and re-inserted the old one and “Click”… re-inserted new one, no "CLICK". I did however add the “second screw as was suppled”, so now I have (2) screws holding the “Flush Valve” in place. And what is with the worm gear clamps (existing & supplied), the heads are not 1/4 or 5/16's, sheeez but I did snug them up tight. This morning I will look for any subtle differences between the old and new Flush Valve. And I still have a very slight drip coming out of the back of the toilet where the “Flush Valve” inserts… I believe I have a work-around, in that I found out where I will re-locate Willis’s water dish. Maggie was not impressed. B~Out

Yep, that's what I did, per the instructions. It makes sense the button is forward, so that it clasps the fan up front where it takes wind when towing. Once you get to installation, the curved shape of the Oliver hulls makes it difficult! All exhaust fans are designed to be flush on a flat roof and ceiling. Torque down the screws gently, little-by-little, taking your time so the plastic frame will curve. Too bad Oliver doesn't have a small flat area for this fan in the design of their hull molds.

Can't live without them along with the LevelMatePRO! I always smile and snicker when I see the 5th-wheel and camper guys with their manual jacks, large 1/2" impacts in hand. 🤣

Tom, you are absolutely correct! 😎 Changing a tire or working any suspension maintenance like in this maintenance thread, only "the belt" is needed, no suspenders necessary! 🤣 I would wager the floor jack I purchased used 40 years ago is much more capable than what most of you use at home (see pic below). When friends come into my garage, a first comment usually is, "Wow, where did you get that?!" It was already decades old at the time, nicely rebuilt at a hydraulic service shop in Chicago. It's an 8-ton floor jack with a 6 ft reach, a pump handle that comes up to your chest with a release lever at that height. It also has a kick pump that's so cool, it gets you started or by itself can lift a lighter car with ease. 10 auto restoration projects, 40 brake jobs and more! This beast has always been appreciated. But I'm still using the Oliver lift jacks alone for everything Oliver. Tom mentioned the one exception which is axle replacement. Our Oliver hull was lifted by the stabilizer jacks. I used the floor jack to lift the axles and you can see a bottle jack that I needed once to get a stubborn leaf aligned to the shackle opening. Tools are a man's best friend, when the right tool is chosen for the task at hand. I have this bottle jack and a single jack stand in the TV toolbox, along with enough tools to do most emergency repairs to the TV on the road. Haven't needed them thank goodness, working a lot of preventive maintenance when home and being lucky! Like my belts to keep my jeans in place, never wore suspenders!"

The best jack, the quickest and safest jack, is our built-in Barker VIP 3000. 😎 When upgrading axles, I would not support the hull in any other way. I'm not using jacks on wheels or bottle jacks on a trailer that can move. I added a jack stand underneath before I got under it. If the jacks can do this, they can be used for any maintenance. I had it sitting like this for 4 days by the time I got the old parts out and new axles and leaf springs installed.

Oliver mounted ours wrong, 90 degrees off, and it pops open on the highway. Follow the instructions.