Mainiac

Have noticed when in the bathroom, and the door is closed, the vent fan struggles. Open the door slightly and it gets the air needed to exhaust well. You can hear the fan relax. I know there is a slight opening at the bottom of the door, but it doesn't appear to be enough air exchange. Thinking this may effect the heat. Thinking if there was a vent to the main cabin, up high near the bathroom cabinet, the air could move easier. The heat from the bathroom register could reach to the return air of the furnace easier and maybe heat the bathroom better. The bathroom vent wouldn't have to work so hard, get more air, so should work better. Has anyone else noticed and done anything about it?

We have found the tray to less than useful to us. Nothing seems to fit in there and everything there gets wet during showers (and hard to squeegee clean). The pump switch could be put near the light switch or TP holder there get the wires out of the way. If the panel was replaced with a watertight marine hatch, it is would provide any rigidity needed to the panel. This might be in the future to modify, but in the meantime we have found absolutely no reason to even 'peek' in there.

Thank for reply. That's our plan.

Thought we had escaped the porch light black plague. After returning from a small trip that included camping under oak trees, dampish weather, and over 50 miles of dirt roads, the camper needed a bath. We have not noticed any issue before and had hoped we had escaped the plague. We used a name brand wash and wax, and as soon as we touched the light with the soft brush we saw the black streaks. They rinsed right off. However, we also saw some slight black streaks, though not as severe, coming off which we assume was the battery door gasket. We hope that was just accumulated scum. Now we wait for it to all dry and apply the Aquarium sealer that Oliver provided. I had not noticed any streaking during yesterday's rain. Wonder if wash/wax we used was the starting cause???

But with no ground to the pedestal, there was no ground to the 115 outlet either. So rather than reduce, just plug in direct. Net results are the same, without the amp reduction. Other choice is to leave, move to a correctly wired site, or go to solar...

Told a friend, that had just bought a 2015 F150 about the potential "disconnect" problem. He has a SOB trailer. Said he had not had a problem. Two days later he called and said, "#@+:;$@", the message and ding ding were showing up all the time. He took the service bulletin listed in this forum to the dealer during other service call and asked it to be done. The service dept. wondered where he got the info as they had never heard about it or had it listed. Service was done and the last two trips with the SOB were with out issue, no more ding, dings. The service bulletin evidently did include dielectric grease on the trailer plug. It's purpose is to eliminate corrosion and possible bad contacts. The F150 was reprogrammed, but wonder if the dielectric grease alone might eliminate the not F150s having the same issues?

I cleaned out the "basement" compartment and noticed the floor, under the mat, was made out of what looked glass covered foamcore (probably a camper door or window cutout). It covered electrical wires and 'stuff'. Makes a smooth floor. Similar material should make a great and sturdy floor in the dinette compartments. Looks like another winter project...

That's what even the simplest testers will show, reversed or open grounds, reversed polarity, or even wired correctly. The Progressive unit shows voltage and the other function, all before you plug in your unit. The nice thing is, if you 'fry' it, it has an unlimited lifetime warranty. And the turn around time is really quick. We do have pretty good negotiation skills, especially when it comes to $$$ and paid for services. Believe me my cost for the trip were negligible. We did try to educate the staff. We showed him other sites wired correctly, some with reversed polarity. We wanted to correct for them, but they would not let me crack the box. They said they would take care of it, but we question that. They have enough traffic coming in to LLRetail, that they are able to resell the lot if someone leaves. What they don't know is that I live close by and by nature will protect my fellow campers. Also my phone still has the state inspectors number in it. But the question remains, what is the danger to the camper? Are there circuit boards that could be compromised? Other than just normal protect the owner from themselves stuff?

Maybe we should start a "wagon train" of Ollies. Circle the Nation, in a counter clockwise direction, picking up 'strays'. Should we start at the Spring Oliver Rally 2018? What would the parks think when 50 to 100 Oliver's showed up? Maybe Trailer Life, Outdoor Life, Good Sam's, Oliver, and state camping associations would sponsor? We have 8 months to plan?

We know the shock value to humans, especially at the pedestal. Also we know the GFI will not 'trip' with the tester, unless the ground is present. What we were curious about, what was the potential for damage to the Oliver? Especially, since Oliver supplies an adapter, ungrounded, for generator use?

Pulled into a campground, and the Progressive box showed an open ground. It would not allow the electric to flow to the Oliver. After mentioning it to the 'staff' they said the previous camper had electric, and their testing showed nothing wrong, (staff didn't know how to read and GFI wouldn't trip.. he also said my tester was faulty). My question?? What possible damage could I have done to the Oliver, if I had bypassed the Progressive, and plugged in direct? I have the portable, not built in, so it was an option. We were in a group of multiple units and didn't want to leave. We used propane for the refig. and batteries for lighting and such. As only a three day layover, seen not a major inconvenience. (Just hated to pay for a service unable to use)...

Been retired a couple of times. Hope it sticks this time. But, that being said, I have never met anyone that said, "I wish I had worked longer"...

Off to South Arm Campground, near Andover, Maine. It is on the Richardson Lakes. The plan is to fish a little, watch a few moose, and reconnect 4 families that used to camp at different times together in Oxford....

My guess is the sales office would send you a sample of the flooring?

Zip line sounds fun.... is screaming allowed?

We looked and drooled for a long time before we leaped for the Oliver. It seemed that almost every time we saw a used AS the ad said new floors. That concerned us. We had a Scamp awhile ago, and the reason we got it cheap was...it need a new floor in places. Space was tight to replace the needed floor but doable. We decided we had done it and never wanted to do it again. No wood (or wood composite) sounded like he way to go for us. Now after having the Scamp, the extra space in the Oliver is grand. Not as luxurious as the AS, but with the extra ground clearance, the width same as my tow vehicle, and the shorter length I have gone beyond where the road ends. The times where we stoped, not "plugged in", used the microwave, watched the weather, watched a movie, and had the CPAP running all night, was a real bonus for us...

Our license plate light didn't work at pick-up, but it was getting dark and threatening mega rain. We would look at it later, how hard could it be? We had not planned on driving after dark so it could wait for another day. That other day had arrived. What we found was that the lead from the camper, going toward the license light, had power and it was the correct polarity. Red was positive and white was negative (white negative is standard in 12 V systems). The problem, we found, was that the jumper that plugs into that lead had reversed colored wires. Evidently the electrician hooking up the license plate light assumed it was correct and spliced white to white and black to red. Oops...doesn't work n this case. Evidently LED lights are polarity sensitive and don't work in reverse polarity mode. (Evidently quality control didn't get a complete check mark that day). Our solution: New butt splices from the license plate light to the jumper. We cut both wires from the light, above the splices, and reconnected. We hooked from the light, white to red, and black to white. (Remember our jumper had reversed color coding). Voila...We have light.

CPap machines...I thought most, at least ours, was really 12 volt. If so you could eliminate the small inverters too. Just use a 12V cord and plug it in direct?

It is gone on my Amazon Fire. We do use it, but could live without it. What is the reason for logging in or out? Log out, go back a screen and it shows you are logged in. Log out and at the bottom it shows your 'icon' as being logged in??

Angela.. We applied our own graphic at a campsite. We also put on the hull # (hull # supplied by Oliver, but we were not sure where we wanted it). The big graphic was easier to put on than the hull number, because of the material it was made from. We got the graphic ahead of time and took it with us. It was designed by me, enhanced and supplied by Banana Banners out of Bowdoinham, Maine. She ships. (She does fire trucks too, and you know how fussy they are). We have seen some really nice custom graphics from dream catchers, compass roses, pictures, animals,, to landscapes. The choices are endless. Maybe something to reflect the name you are giving 'it'. You might as well name it. It will develop a personality and become a member of your family. Keep us posted, and maybe we will see you on the open road... What part of the world is home? And where do you roam?

Welcome. Which way you heading after your " shakedown cruise"? Just be aware that most places start closing down north of the Mason/Dixon line by Nov. 1 rst. However, you are good to go in your Oliver. Any question at all feel free to ask here. You might get several different answers, and they all might be right..

Couldn't your jack blocks be laid sideways? We found stall (for horses) mats on sale at Tractor Supply by the foot. Not very thick, but easy to store, non skid, and easy to stack to get the height you might need. Also no chance of them damaging anything as you drive on and off. Just cut to length and width of you planks...

Not sure a water heater will ignite on propane, unless it is full of water. On electric the element will come on and ruin the element, and probably your day. Don't believe the older units have electric elements, as they are a relative recent addition... For a new unit owner I would recommend a tire pressure gauge be in your tool kit. Hopefully somewhere in your literature is the recommended pressure...

I believe the early units had clear glass, and the newer units are all frosted. For those with clear, I heard you can go to Hobby Lobby (craft type) stores and get a color it yourself stainglass imitation kit. It adheres to the glass. Guess you could leave a small peephole to peek out of. With the curtain there can you open the door and leave the screen door closed? Nice looking job on the curtain.. The newer Fantastic fans have a cover that does not have to be closed to keep out the rain. You can leave it open and no rain comes in. Worth taking a look up there. If you can or have to update they have a smoked gray cover that keeps out morning look that for those mid day naps...

Pull in to a campsite. Ask anybody there and I bet they would be happy to show you about the water heater. It is the same as every other water heater on the market. If you have one you might as well use it. Basically fill the heater with water before turning it on. If it does not fill probably there are bypass valves that prevent antifreeze from away entering the tank during winterizing. Those valves are inside the camper. Open the outside cover, locate the temp/pressure relief valve ( usually near the top middle) pull up on the little silver handle until water comes out Turn on the heater. Run the faucet to get out the bubbles. In about 6 minutes you should have hot water. Now for the black handle in the bath: Push it in and it shuts the valve (we assume yours is the same as ours). That prevents the water from the tank 'sloshing' up into the shower pan as you go down a rough road (or sudden stop). It does happen. Last thing we remember to do. Don't forget to open once stopped or your sinks won't drain. (I think ours vents better with it open too). Another part of the process that we do is make sure there is only just a very little water in the toilet bowl. You don't want that splashing around either. We do put a little water in each tank before a trip, that way going down the road the splashing water helps clean the tanks.