Mainiac

For someone who has never used, or even seen up close, a solar power system: is it safe to sum it up, in the general consensus...the Zamp PWM is inferior to the Blue Sky? Or is it a cheaper or just simpler to use device? An upgrade to the Blue Sky? And the Blue Sky was the standard state of the art device used in the Oliver before?

Hi, welcome to the growing family of Oliver enthusiasts. At the top of the forum page is a search box. Type in ladder. It will bring up all responses in here regarding ladders. Some comments of little or no interest, but you will get a cross section of the thoughtful process others have gone through. I believe the best one we have seen is the one Randy (Try2relax) has, maybe teleflex?, it will collapse to about 24" high, extend 15', and fit in the trailer closet. It will pinch if you are not careful collapsing, but don't ask how I know...

They have a flip up TV system available, if you so choose. It mounts over the rear window and folds up flush with this ceiling. Looks really nice. They install, but want you to buy the the tv separate and drop ship to them to install. Do a search under television and you should be able to see pictures. There was quite a thread on the subject...

Welcome to the growing Oliver family of owners. Hope you are planning on joining the Rally in real early May. You should be able to learn a lot, and even meet some of the pioneers that make the forum great. If your new unit isn't done yet I bet they let you in with your old unit. Maybe if you ask they could deliver at the Rally? At least your travel distance would be less than some. Again...Welcome...

Thanks, I think I am going to be ok. The bottom of the tow tube is 23" high and the recommended "top of the ball" for towing the Oliver is 23 1/2". That means I will have replace my triple ball mount with a 4" drop (maybe 5"). My concern is I am going to add a ladder to the inside of the tailgate to gain access to the bed as we have added a tonneau cover. We don't want the added weight to cause us to drop and dent the tailgate as we have with the old truck. (We get on the tailgate when cranking the boat on it's trailer..a lot dryer that way). We tow up to 6 different trailers, so we will have to be careful as they are all different...

"I just want to say that, having the door get jammed up is really such a common occurrence that you guys need to understand that it’s not anything to worry about because it’s just a simple part of RVing " I have had a 5th wheel, a fiberglass motorhome with 4 hydraulic jacks, and a Scamp. I have been in some strange and off road spots with all of them. I have NEVER sprung a door so that it was hard to open. The thought that if the supports were to settle due to soft soil during the night and I couldn't get out would be disheartening. But we always level with supports under the tires and supports under the jacks (which we use to stabilize only). We worked at a campground, which was predominately soft sand, and transient and seasonal units were all done this way with never a problem. I like the idea that the jacks are capable of lifting the unit if necessary, but not something I would ever do on a regular basis...

Stuff a small pillow in the MaxAir. Keeps heat in ir out too...

With black cabinet doors, window frames black might be nice. Someone in here painted theirs and like the jack cover they primed first. It is definitely something we have on our list to do. Keep us posted.. Black shades would make an afternoon nap easier??

Looks like I am going to have to prime and paint mine. Think the 'almond' looks old, faded, and dirty. Maybe a question for the Oliver Rally...

Is this info available in the owner's manuals? I know I won't be able to find the info if I need it 4 to 8 years from now? Have you asked why they don't make the shade in pure white?

If you are going to the Oliver Rally, a questionnaire just showed up under the Rally heading. This might be a good topic for them to answer or demonstrate I like the idea of using stall mats cut to size in the blockng sequence. Think they would keep chocks and blocking from sliding too...

Thank you. Very informative...

Thanks, I'll have to do some measuring. On my 2016 2500 Ram it is 23" to the bottom of the 2" tow tube. So I know I will need a drop hitch to get the top of the ball at the recommended 23 1/2". Also I want to get a better one than what I have now, something rated at least 10,000 lbs. Have waited until we take the snowplow off to get an accurate measurement on height, but after 60" of snow so far, we are not sure if it's over. Our intial concern was not wether we would hit the hitch or not, it was whether we would touch the leveling jack. Seems like that is not a concern like it is on our utility trailer. How much higher is the Bulldog and components than the top of the ball?

Thanks. I was thinking about getting a ladder that screws to the tailgate. I may anyway as it is easier to recover the boat to reach the winch...

Nice story. There are some around you I bet. Go to this web site, look at see an Oliver. There is a list of folks willing to show, or the factory can set up a look see. I know your pain. We followed one through Biddeford, Maine a couple of years ago. Said I have never seen one before. Looks like what we want. Researched. Now have one near the end of the production line... Good luck.

We have always used the DC setting while towing. We let the tow vehicle supply the power, it's running anyway. What we have found is that DC will not cool down a refrig., but will keep it cold. We cool it with either AC or propane. We cool it,switch to DC, and go. We have seen propane "blow out", and just to be on the safe side, we turn it off. We know it is vented to the outside, but also know propane is heavier than air. So to be safe, off it goes...

Welcome... I have found these folks to be most helpful and knowledgeable. A question, no matter how simple we might think it might be, these folks will answer it or find the answer for you.

Wondering if there is room to open a tailgate of a pickup, while hooked to an Oliver?

We have ordered a Cosco filter from Amazon. I thought $48.01 was a lot (guess we been out of the business for a while). Comparable at the local HD was over $65. The one we are getting does an excellant job of removing that clorine smell we can't stand and any sediment. And we all know it is out there. We will 'upgrade' to brass fittings and probably a longer hose. When we finally find "great" water, we fill the tank and use for coffee and drinking.

Welcome to the forums. We are half way through the wait process for ours. If you have any questions, be sure to ask these folks. They are the most knowledgeable and so willing to share. Also review all the threads. There is a ton of insight and knowledge...

We have "chatted" with them thanks. Just the question had not come to my mind yet. The new sales manager said they spray a high gloss gel coat on the mold. That we understand. Just I would bet somewhere in the process the mold is cleaned, either after release or before a new unit is started. But maybe not done that way with todays products and methods. Was curious if we had to remove some type of wax, finish, or product. But maybe it is water solvable so the water test/ wash takes care of it...

Reason we are asking, we are going to apply a graphic and wanted to know what we would need to have for surface prep. To clean tires you need a compound of some kind (maybe Armourall). If just water on the hull would be great.

Hull, when you pick up the unit, what is the condition of the hull? I know they wash it, (it actually is a test of water tightness). But what does a close look show? Is there mold release compound? Just a bare naturally shiny hull? Or has a polish been applied?

Strange, a last week pick up hull was #200. And one being picked up this week is hull #196? Complexity of installations? Brings into question the assigning of VIN (hull) #??

On the thermostat location it seems a long way around to run the wires? Had not heard they were eliminating the pull handle. Had heard they had eliminated the closing drain plug. Am thinking about a 'portable' gate with a cover, to put on the end of the hose. Then if the hose feels real heavy from a leak or open handle somewhere the cover can be taken off without getting an unpleasant shower. An emptying elbow put on and the last gate opened.