ScubaRx

I believe the problem with them was that they did not meet RVIA standards.

I can answer that question by way of a little company history and some photos. The first 17 foot models of the Oliver rolled off the line in 2007. The shells were drawn from molds that had been hand made. The molds for the 23.5 footer were CAD designed and made for Oliver in late 2008. At that time it was referred to as the 22 footer. There were three of these bigger units produced before all Oliver trailer production ceased in 2009. One unit was sold to a customer and the other two were retained by Oliver. In early 2013, Oliver made the decision to restart their trailer line with the plan to initially produce the larger 22/23.5 foot model. I was privileged to join the Oliver family and several members of the administrative and production team at the Townsend FGRV Rally in Tennessee in April of 2013. I had been asked to attend with our original 17 footer and provide ideas for the new model from an owner's perspective. The two surviving 22 footers and an additional 17 footer were brought from the Oliver factory making a total of four Oliver's in attendance at that rally. The idea was to generate interest in the re-introduction of the Oliver Travel Trailers. I dug through my photo archives to find photos of the "Vintage" 22 footers. At the factory in January of 2009At the factory in January of 2009 At the factory in January of 2009At the factory in January of 2009 At the factory in January of 2009At the factory in January of 2009 At the Townsend FGRV Rally in Tennessee in April of 2013. Our original 2008 17 footer on the left and one of the 22 footers on the right.At the Townsend FGRV Rally in Tennessee in April of 2013. Our original 2008 17 footer on the left and one of the 22 footers on the right. So, there you have it, that area was originally use to display three marker lights. These lights (as well as the raised area they were mounted on) have been eliminated in the models coming off the line now and replaced with the smaller lights on either side.

Apparently Airstream is seeing the light... Airstream Announces ‘Nest Caravans’ Buyout https://www.rvbusiness.com/2016/04/airst ... ns-buyout/

Windows Media Audio (WMA) is an audio data compression technology developed by Microsoft. The name can be used to refer to its audio file format or its audio codecs. It is a proprietary technology that forms part of the Windows Media framework. Microsoft developed Windows Media Audio (WMA) in an effort to undermine the MP3, Apple's AAC compression, and other codecs. Almost everybody uses mp3 as their codec. The problems you've experienced MAY be related to the fact that they are WMA files. You can easily convert them to mp3's.

Short of entering thru an open door or window, there's not really any egress points for them. They certainly could not gnaw through the outer (and inner) shell. I think worries of rodent infestation is a non-issue for the Oliver.

"Can I get a removable doorway step, so I can unbolt it when venturing onto rough forest roads?" The standard twin step is a bolt on unit so it would work as is. "Can I get a cassette toilet installed, and replace the black tank with an extra fresh tank?" As with most RV toilets, the potty sits on top of the black tank and it is custom molded to fit only that area. Not sure, but I it could be used as an additional 18 gallons of fresh water with the addition of some extra plumbing. "Can I get disc brakes? I just asked that in another section....." I responded to that thread there. "How much is a rear receiver?" The use of a rear receiver would be dependent on what your intended use of said receiver is. "How much for gravel protection (bed liner and mudflaps)?" I would go with the spray on bed liner on the front and behind the wheels (down low) "Can I get an offroad coupler in place of the Bulldog?" I assume by this you mean something like the Lock N' Roll hitches. After looking at their web site, I don't see any problems. That's a pretty cool hitch. https://locknroll.com/ Hope this helps... Steve

The OO is stored inside its own garage and gets no sun on the solar panels so it is always plugged up. The batteries are always at 99 to 100 per cent. It has been outside for the past two weeks and the sun has kept the batteries full. Today I took all the batteries out to run the cables for our new inverter so I plugged it up for a little while.

Hi John, I'm glad you're looking into the possibility of going to a disc brake system. I had previously considered changing to disc brakes and Robert and I discussed it about a year or so back. However, the system you show in your post is not one that will work with the Oliver. That “kit” contains hubs with a bolt pattern of 5 on 4-1/2". The bolt pattern on the hubs of the Oliver are 6 on 5-1/2". I spoke with the folks at Brakerite when I was considering changing and was told that they did not have a “kit” with hubs that would fit our axles. The lady I spoke with at that time was going to put the individual parts together that we would need and get back to me with a price. I never heard another word. I did not follow up because I decided since I can actually lock up the brakes as they are now that changing the actuators from drum to disc would not stop me any faster. I also was told that the onboard brake controller in my Sierra would not control electric over hydraulic. I have since found out that it will work so I’m not completely dead to the idea. I would still be interested in getting a price for the parts. If you want to follow up with Brakerite and post your findings here I think there may be some interest if the price is in line with the existing “kit”. You need the bearings as they will already be in the existing hubs. You will have to replace the four seals to be mounted in the new hub/rotors. The standard axles on the Elite II are 3500 pound rated with 10 inch hubs that have the proper 6 on 5-1/2" bolt patterns. I think they are made up special for Oliver. You need to make sure the hubs you are purchasing will use the exact same bearings that are in the hub/drums. You also would not need batteries for the breakaway kit since the power would be supplied by the Oliver’s on board electrical system. As best I can determine it will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500.00 to replace the drums with discs. I this is what you would need, these are all listed on e-trailer. Kodiak Hydraulic Brake Line Kit - Tandem Axle - 20' - PN# 20TA-BLKIT...$102.08 Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit-PN# T4835700...$768.95 Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) - PN# RG06-070 (x2)...$ 7.20 Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor 6 on 5-1/2 - Dacromet - 5,200 lbs to 6,000 lbs - PN# K2HR526D (x2)...$599.90

Said wellnuts would have come in handy a few months ago when I drilled a hole in the top of my fresh water tank. Well, of course, it was an accident. What, do you think I meant to do that????? Where were you and this information when I needed it? Gee, thanks Aubrey. Nice looking solar setup BTW.

Hi Robert, thanks for wondering about my tool box. I grew up in a family that operated two manufacturing businesses and had every conceivable tool imaginable. From woodworking to metalworking and everything in between. CNC machines for both wood and metal working, lathes, press brakes, air compressors and air tools, table saws, drill presses, grinders, sanders, welders, you-name-it, we-had-it. With the exception of the CNC stuff, I've still got most of these tools. When I compare the four gigantic toolboxes (of just hand tools) that I have in my shop at home to the two or three little tool bags I carry with us on trips I feel like I have only the very bare necessities. I don't expect to have any problems with my Oliver, I never have had with either of the two I've owned. But if a problem does arise, I'll be able to fix it. Most likely, however, someone else will need help and I'll have whatever I need to get them back on the road. Cheers, Steve

You're gonna love that AC unit. Very good choice.

Stan, Sorry to hear of your poor luck but glad nothing more came of it. What did you do about replacement of the old tire? I have got to get back to Hohenwald to get some stuff done to the OO. We are leaving after the first of the year for a couple of months in the desert Southwest so I need to get these things done soon. I hear there some festive doings up that way during the first three weeks of December so that gives us something to do while there.

Linda, Congrats on the impending hatch of your new "baby". As far as the hoses go, Oliver will supply you with both the water and sewer hose. If you choose to supply additional ones of your own, potable water hoses are always white and are easily found in the (usually small and limited) RV section at most Wal-Marts. If you buy an additional sewer hose, pick the heaviest duty one you can find. We went for 5 years with our first Oliver without needing any more sewer hose than came with it. I did add a couple of extra lengths when I made a dump station at home. I've taken to carrying one of these with us in case we have a campsite that has "full" hookups (water, electric AND sewer). If you plan to camp where you will regularly have access to campsite sewer hookup you will usually need an additional length of hose and a sewer elbow will make the connection to it a lot more pleasant (think Robin Williams in the movie RV). Unless you are perpetually parked on concrete or some sort of pavement, you will probably have to have something to put under the feet on the leveling jacks. The Oliver is heavy and if you are parked for any length of time on anything other than solid ground they will tend to sink in somewhat. I use some 8 inch lengths of 4x6 treated wood stood on end under the back two jacks. This keeps me from having to extend/retract them their full length (this also saves on battery power if you are not hooked up to electricity). Also, if you forget to raise those rear jacks before pulling out of your campsite, having them already 8 inches off the ground will go a long way toward not discovering this error by immediately bending the jacks backward. I likewise use some 4x6 blocks under the front jack but not stood on end. If the trailer moves forward or backward more than a few inches it would topple off an upright block and, based on a tongue weight of over 500 pounds, the jack would hit the ground pretty hard. Which brings us to the subject of chocks. You need them. You didn't mention which Oliver model you are getting but for the single axle you need two chocks; for the twin axle, at least two, four would be better. Harbor Freight has some that are made of solid rubber for about $6-7 each. Put these in front of and in back of your tires BEFORE you unhitch. You never know if the site is just unlevel enough to make the trailer roll when you raise it off the ball. Even a few inches can be bad. Backwards usually not so much but it might get away from you and go down a hill someplace , forwards and you've got a nice ding in your tow vehicle. Not knowing your experience, I hope these little pearls of info are not redundant to you and will serve to enhance your camping adventures and help you avoid some of the pitfalls that await all of us. May your road go ever on..... Steve

In a nutshell, yes. We've had no problems in either of the Oliver's we've owned with the refrigerators cooling abilities in any temps. And the way they are installing them now, is even better than the way ours is. I don't think you'll have any problems.

I may not be understanding your question but the rear-view camera that Oliver is installing is wireless. It does not have any wires running to the tow vehicle. I can easily get a signal from the camera to the tow from several hundred feet away.

Welcome to the Oliver Owner's club...

Reacher, our big male Doberman sleeps on the floor between our two beds. We have a crate pad for him to lay on. He also has his "blanket" that he is never far from (think Linus van Pelt). Our two "little" dogs sleep on the beds with us. We have a 30 foot cable that we attach to something solid outside that allows Reacher a little roaming room if the campsite lends itself to that ability.

Dave, check out this thread:

Congrats, Kevin. Welcome to the club. You will NOT be disappointed in your choice.

You will not need anything to supplement the lifting/leveling capability of the electric jacks. Either of the two rear jacks will lift that side of the trailer completely off the ground. In addition, you won't need a jack if you ever have to change a tire. Leveling your new Oliver will actually be fun!!!

I transferred our tool kit from our previous Oliver Elite to our current Elite II. Rather than try to tell you what you need I'll tell you what I carry and you can make your own decision as to whether you might want to also. Misc. screwdrivers (flat and phillips) Misc. pliers, wire cutters/strippers/crimping tools, vice grips, hemostats Hammer, rubber and regular Multi-Meter A full set of metric and SAE wrenches A full set of metric and SAE sockets Two DeWalt 18V cordless tools (drill/driver and Impact) A full set of 64 drill bits The 18V batteries also fit a DeWalt Vacuum and flashlight An 18 inch long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar with a 5 inch extension bar An 18 inch long 1/2 inch drive torque wrench A dedicated 6pt socket that fits the lug nuts on the Oliver and Truck A dedicated 6pt socket that fits the anode in the water heater (mostly in case someone else needs it) A 12 volt air compressor Tire plug kit, Pressure gauge, Non-Contact Infrared Digital Thermometer (for hubs and tires) A collection or stainless steel screws, bolts, nuts and washers Extra fuses Flashlights, butane lighters Misc. crimp type wire connectors and terminals, roll of electrical tape Duct Tape, WD-40, Silicone Spray, several rolls of that green Velcro that's used to tie up plants etc. (just cut off what you need to secure cords or what-ever), scotch tape Tube of White Caulk Misc. hose fittings such as Y's and cut-off valves, extra rubber washers Two complete sets of wheel bearings, races and grease seals as well as grease in a NEW, CLEAN grease gun Jumper Cables (these will come in really handy if your converter/charger ever fails - guess how I know) 30 amp to 50 amp converter, 30 amp to 15 amp converter, 120V extension cord Clear Elbow for hooking up the sewer hose when full hookups are available or at a dump station Water purifier Misc. wooden blocks to put under our jacks Misc. bungee cords, para-cord 120V extension cord This is the bulk of what we take, it sounds like a lot of stuff now that I've written it down, but with the exception of the wheel bearings and tire plug kit, we've needed each of these at one time or another.

I have a measured 0.4 aH phantom draw on my batteries. Each of these devices draw approximately 0.1 aH each: CO detector, USB charging ports, Radio/TV and GPS tracker. That will amount to about 9.6 amps daily or 2.4% of my available 400 amps.

Well now dag-nabbit, who's done went and moved Cherokee off over there into North Carolina? No wonder I can never find it....

It appears there are at least five Oliver's signed up for the rally in Cherokee, TN this fall. Who wants to make it six or more? There are plenty of sites left so let's see if we can make a real showing.

Where are you, David? I've tried to call you every night for the past three.