ScubaRx

Gotcha. Same thing I ran into when I came to them with an idea to use gray water to flush the toilet. No interconnecting plumbing. Tell them just leave off certification for your trailer.

In following this thread I've become confused about this extra fresh water tank. It seems like folks are over thinking this and possibly making it more difficult than it really is. Why not just use the black water tank as installed and just re-purpose it as an extra fresh water tank? The tanks in the Oliver are custom made for the space they occupy so any tank that is placed in the black tank position would have been made as a black water tank. Now, obviously it would never have been used for black water so it could easily be filled with potable water instead, in fact, it actually has its own fill connection (the black tank flush.) Aside from the extra plumbing needed to connect the two tanks, I can't see a reason to make other changes. What am I missing?

As our Oliver was one of the first off the line, we did not have the opportunity to order most of the options that are now available. Early on, I bought a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C Hardwired 30 Amp RV Surge Protector and installed it into our trailer. It has worked flawlessly and has proved to be a useful addition as it has caught several "problems" in other people's wiring. Its one failing feature was the butt ugly remote display that came with it. First, it is designed to be surface mounted and it does stick out almost an inch. You could possible overcome that obstacle but the connecting cable from the suppressor is plugged into the bottom rather than the back. So you're sorta stuck with a surface mount. Second, the display remains on all the time and is constantly rotating through several different values. This may not bother some folks but we have so many idiot lights that are always glowing, that it's not possible to achieve a really dark interior at night without covering them all with tape or something. That's not feasible for us. As far as brightness goes this display is far and away the worst of the bunch. I do agree that the display should be easily visible without jumping thru too many hoops. Some have suggested that it be mounted outside so that it is able to be seen as you are plugging in. There's nothing wrong with that idea but the way the suppressor works we did not find that necessary. If there is a fault outside the trailer, the nanosecond you plug in, the electricity is stopped at the suppressor BEFORE it can reach anything in the trailer and do any harm. The readout will give the error code and you can take it from there. You have the ability to turn off the suppressor and bypass it if you need to (probably not the best idea in most cases.) We chose to mount our display inside the cupboard, cabinet, pantry (whatever name you've assigned to it) centered right under the upper shelf. Our reasoning was: it is out of sight, it is easily viewed at any time, it is usually not covered regardless of how much you put into the cabinet and wiring was a snap with only one hole to drill.

We had a hay baler similar to that when I was growing up. I recall asking my grandfather how it tied the twine around the bales and was told "there's a little man in there..."

Don, did you take the Touareg down below the rims in Canyonlands? We have always loved the whole Utah experience. How was the weather during your trip, we've always traveled in that area in the fall. We are glad you enjoyed the trip.

Stan, That is a Maxx Window Vent by MaxxAir. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued by the manufacturer. It allows you to have the windows open about 4-5 inches and still keep the rain out.

If I had an accident while on the road like this one I would just cover it with duct tape until I could get home and have it fixed correctly.

We’ve all had those “Awwww Shoot” moments where you wish you could have a do-over of the past few minutes. In July of last year I had taken the Outlaw Oliver back to the factory for an upgrade to the body where the rear jacks exit. This modification is now built into the mold and is standard on all current production models. While there I accidentally allowed the upper left rear corner of the trailer to come in contact with an “immovable” object. The first three pics show the results of that encounter. [attachment file=DSC_0918.JPG] [attachment file=DSC_0919.JPG] [attachment file=DSC_0921.JPG] The next day at the factory Phil Andrews started work on the hole. First, gel coat was ground away and the deformed piece was pushed back into position. Then the grinding, filling and polishing began. Now, you can't tell the hole was ever there. I cringe to think what a repair like this would cost if it had been an Airstream. I love fiberglass.

The solar panels are mounted to the outside upper hull via brackets that are thru-bolted to a metal backing plate. There is little danger of them being ripped off by any wind short of a tornado. Many owners of SOB's (Some Other Brand) choose to mount their panels directly to the roof thinking there is less wind resistance and therefore better. In reality, this is NOT the best mounting method due to solar panels becoming less efficient as their temperature rises. Having an air space under them keeps them cooler and increases their ability to generate electricity. Concerning the propane line to the refrigerator, my guess is that it is probably there and capped off. They had to run one into the coach for the cook-tops anyway. It would not be insurmountable to install if it is not there and you ever needed it. Incidentally, there are three used Oliver's that are currently for sale. Besides this one the other two are described at: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/2015-oliver-legacy-elite-ii-twin-bed-version-for-sale/ http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/new-2014-legacy-elite-ii-for-sale/

After I designed the risers for storage under the twin beds in our Outlaw Oliver build (hull #50), I worked with Steve Parsons at the factory to come up with a divider to separate the bed on the galley side from the cooking area. It is made from a piece of 3/4" thick material that is like a cutting board. Very slick and wipes clean easily. These pictures were not taken with illustrating the divider in mind but show what it looks like. [attachment file=DSC_0112.JPG] [attachment file=DSC_0476.JPG] [attachment file=DSC_1598.JPG]

Matt, A preview-post button along with the submit button would be nice. Thanks,

Very cool truck Mike (and Carol). Really looks good hooked on to the Oliver. I understand about things being hard to reach in the bed of the truck, especially with our cover. That's why I installed the bed slide.

After having the starboard wheel of our first Oliver drop into a hole when I made too tight of a right turn, I discovered the door to our microwave had been opened by the force. The tempered glass platter on the inside had sailed out along with a brand new Coleman lantern globe that I had placed inside to keep it safe from breaking. It appeared that they had both encountered the side dinette table top during their exodus and had shattered into about a million tiny shards of glass. Never wanting to have to clean up that mess again, we started placing the platter under a mattress while on the move. Feeling that this method was really only a patch to the problem, I searched for some sort of catch or latch to keep the microwave closed. I found these Multi Use Latches on Amazon. We have used them on the microwave door, at the base of the shower door to keep it open and behind a Keurig coffee machine to keep it on the counter, all with great success.

Welcome to the Oliver forums. We're here to help. I know you must have questions so don't be shy, fire away.

RobertH... Removal of these three components should be a relatively easy do-it-yourself job. And an added benefit is that if you ever decide to sell, you can offer it as a twin bed/king bed model.

The fridge is the same in both models.

Stan, I could not get that link to work but I think this is the towel bar you referenced. check it out…

In order for the brakes on the Oliver to work properly, they MUST be properly grounded to the truck. This connection is made starting with the 7 pin connector on the back of the Tow. Lift the cover of the left hand seat of the forward small dinette. This the seat next to the pantry/cupboard. Connected to the frame there will be a grounding strip, it will have lots of yellow wires running to it. This ties all the grounds in the 12 V system to the frame. You will need to locate the bundle of wires coming from the front of the trailer that is tied to the 7 pin connector mounted on the front outside wall of the Oliver. Inside this group of wires there is a white wire (as well as blue, green, brown etc.) It is the ground coming from your truck via the 7 pin connector at the rear of the vehicle and the double male ended umbilical attached to the trailer. This white ground wire must have a jumper to the grounding strip. Otherwise all the grounding the trailer is getting from the truck is thru the hitch ball. This is NOT enough for the brakes to work consistently. The lights and everything else will probably work just fine however... Hope this helps.

Bill, We did do both sides and the doors were provided by Oliver. We also installed the expanded wire bottom after moving the propane tanks forward about an inch or so.

It's the trailer. We have had the same problems. Traced the issue to a poor ground inside the trailer in the harness that comes from the truck. It’s an easy fix. But earlier this year we drove about half of a 7500 mile trip with either intermittent or zero brakes.

Looks like Betty may be burying a body!!! At least it will stay fresh. Are you guys fishin'?

The drill is in the forward direction, the interior thicknesses are such that it would be virtually impossible to worry through in reverse. The edge destruction is evident in some of the first pics but it is mostly on the backside of the cut. I've never drilled/cut a hole that I didn't intend to cover the edges somehow. If you think about it, the only raw edge from the factory is on the upper shell at the belly band and they use some kind of a router setup to cut it after the two halves are mated. The blade I used is just a fine toothed metal cutting blade. I've found the key to using the hole saws is to drill your pilot hole first. This prevents the drill in the hole saw from grabbing and jerking the saw rapidly into the fiberglass. That will always shatter the edges. Just let the the saw get a smooth bite and then work on through with a slow steady forward motion at full speed on the drill. Taking a video of one of my projects would require my very able helper (Tali) to really have to multi-task as I've usually got her playing "surgeon's assistant" handing me the various tools and bits that I need. We do try to take lots of pics as we go. As always, I'm happy to assist with any info/advice anyone may want, would not want you to ruin an otherwise perfectly good day.

There is almost a universal consensus that the scariest thing concerning modifications to our beautiful, shiny Oliver’s is the thought of (OMG) drilling a hole in the fiberglass. Well, we’re on our second Oliver and I’ll have to admit that the first hole I put into hull # 26 was a frightening thing. Since then, I’ve drilled a bunch of holes in both hull # 26 and hull # 50. Some were tiny and some were pretty darn large. I’ll have to say that the drilling has gotten easier as time has passed. In the past few weeks I’ve finished a couple of projects that involved some drilling and cutting of fiberglass. Tali wanted to be able to watch TV while on the road. So, we finally (after two years) got our satellite dish and receiver up and running. The only logical place to mount the receiver was up in the rear cabinet but with the door closed, the remote and receiver would not be able to communicate so I purchased a powered IR repeater from Amazon. The remote still has to be able to “see” the eye of the repeater so it needed to be mounted outside the cabinet. So, there’s gotta be some holes drilled. Then I got the crazy idea that it would be really cool to use the otherwise wasted space behind the propane tanks for storage of my chocks and blocks. Now I don’t know about the rest of you folks, but I’d sooner eat a frozen possum than to have to take the cover off the front. That sucker is heavy and if you’re height challenged (think Steve and Tali), it becomes a two person job. There had to be an easier way to access that area. Yep, more holes. Don’t be scared to drill a hole now and then. Just make sure you know what’s on the other side of where you’re drilling and you’ll be fine. And remember this, don’t ever drill down into the floor and through the top of the fresh water tank, it will ruin an otherwise perfectly good day. Trust me on this.

My first guess is that either the hot or cold tap in the bathroom lavatory is slightly open allowing water to run into the sink and down the drain. The water meets the closed blade valve in the drain system and backs up thru the drain and into the shower pan. The pump is still running due to the water level in the tank being too low and it has lost its prime. Other than that it could be elves or Elvis...

Part of my design for our beds was to put us up even with the bottom of the windows. I like to lay there and look out as the world passes by and if something goes “bump in the night” all I have to do is open my eyes. I’ve not had a problem with touching the window shades very often, as most of the time they are open about four or more inches. More likely one of the dogs has laid up against one when it was fully closed and knocked a few of the pleats out of kilter. That is easily fixed by completely closing the shade then reopening it. There’s never been any lasting damage.