ScubaRx

I stated this in another thread but I will reiterate it here. I vote that the OTT Rally be held next Fall. I would loved to have been able to come to the first rally but it came up on short notice and we had made prior plans that could not be changed. Once again, it's too late to start planing for something that is timed just a few months away. For us, we will be gone most of the first 6 months of next year on trips that were planned many months ago. I expect there are others that have already started planning next year's sojourns.

Since the connection between the camera and the monitor is wireless there is no way to lose connection by jiggling the wiring, so it's power to your monitor that's being lost not connection to the camera. The female 12 volt "power ports" in most cars/truck are a piece of junk. The male plugs just won't stay seated in them (watch the video and you will see the power button going off and on as it loses power.) You'll have to find a way to keep the connection hot. You can alleviate some of the night time glare by tilting the camera up so you do not "see" so much of the trailer. The IR LED's that come on after dark are seeing the reflection of the stark white gel-coat and closing down the lens, so glare is normal for night time (I just turn it off after dark.) The vacuum created behind a moving vehicle causes rain water to collect on the plate covering the lens of the camera and makes it blurry. If you figure out a solution to that please let me know.

If you are getting a reading of 13.5 V you are fully charged. I understand your IPN-Pro is telling you you only have a 75% charge. That calculation is incorrect. If you could pull your trailer out into full sun for a few hours it would reset your IPN-Pro and it would read properly. My trailer has been under cover for the last 30 days or so and it is doing the same thing. I cannot tell you why it is like this, it seems to be some idiosyncrasy between the Progressive Dynamics charger and the Blue Sky system. I will let you know when I get this sorted out.

Our TV was mounted in the center during our build, so no old hole. I did have to enlarge and move the original wiring hole for a bunch of new cables going thru. Hole saws are your best friend for this type of work. I have a set of about forty DeWalt bi-metal saws ranging from 9/16" up to over 4". They have proven invaluable in making nice clean holes in fiberglass. There are several tricks using a hole saw that will allow you to offset a hole to another place or simply make the hole bigger in the same place.

Tali and I hope everyone is having a Blessed and safe Thanksgiving.

Mike, I buy all my steel and aluminum for my various projects here locally at a dealer called Tigrett Steel. I'm sure there are similar places all around you. What you should ask for is a piece from their "drops." These are pieces that have been cut from larger jobs and end up in their scrap pile. They will usually shear it to size for you for nothing. Anything from 1/8" to 1/4" thick is sufficient. The mounting holes for the bracket itself are in an approximately 3.5" x 4" rectangle so the plate will need to be somewhere around 6" square, again this is not critical, it just needs to be larger than the mounting hole pattern. If anyone can't find this material and make it, I will be happy to fab it up and ship it to you.

Reinforcement is as simple as bolting the mount through a 1/4" thick plate of aluminum on the inside of the upper cabinet. In 20000 miles this has proven to be a completely sturdy mount. If the factory is unwilling to do this, just have them provide the plate and drill the holes (or you could do this yourself if you choose.) The inside mat and insulation completely covers the plate and all the wiring making for a very neat installation.

This is the mount that we specified for the build of our Outlaw Oliver back in 2013. Oliver won't tell you about it because of the regulations about the rear egress window. We have had zero problems with it for over 20000 miles. It is available on Amazon for a much better price. It is mounted directly in front of the rear window and we travel with it in the stowed (up) position. It does not block the rear window so it could still be used in an emergency. Realistically, I would rather take my chances getting past whatever "emergency" might be happening to get out the door rather than risk life and limb trying to get everybody and the dogs out through that window. We are using the standard Jensen 12vdc TV that Oliver puts in all their trailers.

Mike, know you had a bumpy start and glad everything got worked out. No more issues with the solar, I assume? Looks like you guys had a great maiden voyage.

We will be participating in the Southern Utah Tour this coming May. Not our first visit to this area, but one of our favorite parts of the country.

I vote for sometime in September, don't really care where.

While at the factory recently, management told me that the Dexter EZ Flex system will probably become standard equipment in the future.

I noticed in your picture that the solar panels appeared to be partially covered. I offer this information in case you were not aware of how your solar panels output electricity. You may well have known all this and taken it into consideration. Partial shading of even one cell on a 36-cell solar panel, will reduce its power output. Because all cells are connected in a series string, the weakest cell will bring the others down to its reduced power level. Therefore, whether 1/2 of one cell is shaded, or 1/2 a row of cells is shaded, the power decrease will be the same and proportional to the percentage of area shaded, in this case 50%. When a full cell is shaded, it can actually consume energy produced by the remainder of the cells, and trigger the solar panel to protect itself. The solar panel will route the power around that series string.

Try placing the level on the outside under the edge that forms the belly band. You can also measure the distance from the bottom of the frame to the ground in the front and back.

Good morning Canoe12 and welcome to the Oliver Forums. The Oliver electric jacks do extend far enough to not use any blocks at all. It's just with the use of a tall block we have discovered several benefits: 1 - Time saved in running the jacks as you don't have to run them all the way down (and back up) 2 - Energy saved in not running the jacks so much (they are hogs) 3 - Less chance of accidentally driving off with them fully extended and bending the jack (you will simply drive off the block)

Dennis, in every case, I took it out to run or inspect wiring. The easiest way to route wires from outside the front of the trailer to the inside is thru this area. From there you can go under the black tank or into the closet. In each of our trailers, I ran a remote switch for the front jack allowing me inside control. In our first Oliver all the switches for the outside lights were outside on the driver's side. I turned these outside switches into 3 way switches and put the second set inside by the entrance door.

During a recent trip to the factory to have all our bathroom drains rebuilt they re-did my vanity insert attachment to current standards. This is the way it looks now. And BTW, it is not hard to remove and replace. In the two Oliver's we've owned, I've probably removed it at least a half dozen times. I agree with John, it's not the most accessible place in the trailer but it's not impossible to get there.

Hi David, congrats on your new baby. Picking up a new Oliver trailer after all the planning and waiting is just about as good as it gets. I know you and yours will make many new memories. Your area of the country is one of our very favorite places to visit. We will probably be coming out that way again this spring.

Hey Mike, from one Mississippi boy to another, after you have purged all the water from your system all you will need is a small 110 volt heater from Wal-Mart to keep your Ollie safe from freezing as well as warm and toasty inside all winter. I usually keep the temp around 60 or so. Just keep her plugged in and your batteries will stay charged also. I don't think I'd try to run the propane furnace all winter, I'm sure it has a finite lifespan (especially the fan) and several months of constant use can't do anything but hasten its demise.

While at the factory last week, Tommy told me he would be leaving Oliver soon as he and his family were moving to Ohio to be near his wife’s mother. He did not know who would be taking his place. Let’s all wish him well in this new chapter of his life. Phillip Andrews, one of the fine employees of OTT had an apparent heart attack this past weekend. His facebook posts indicate that he did not have any blockages and won’t require any stents. This is good news, but remember to keep him in your prayers. You may not know Phil, but he is one of the finest men I have every met. If you’ve picked up an Oliver trailer lately it’s likely that Phil applied your graphics as he is a Graphic Designer and member of the Quality Control Team at Oliver. Get Well Soon, Phil...

You can do the "old towel and safety glasses" thing if you want, but it'll take all the fun out of it. If I had anything to add to this, it would be: 1 - Do not let a full black tank sit for a month or two (and percolate) after you return home. 2 - When you do get around to flushing it, do not turn the black tank flush on to "completely" fill (and thereby pressurize) the black tank. 3 - If you have already done #2 above, DO NOT peer down into the toilet with a flashlight as you press the foot pedal to check the level. 4 - If you've gotten this far you should have listened to the John's very wise advice.

No No. The camera only requires a power and ground wire. I suppose they would run that for you if you asked prior to construction, I would ask for it to be a switched connection. No, however from my personal observation, mine will transmit a signal for over 300 feet. The system that is currently being used is the Voyager WVOS713. The camera and monitor are dedicated and I doubt that either would work with other systems. While at the factory this week, I was told that they are looking at another system for 2018. This is because of customer concerns of the monitor being too big (I don't agree) and the unsightly bundle of wires that is left hanging from the monitor after installation (I do agree.) I told them that the extra wiring was easily eliminated for a very simple, elegant install but they were not interested in doing the extra work to accomplish it. I'm not convinced that any system will out-perform this one.

I'm confused, we have owned two Olivers over the past eight years and I have never undone the sewer hose from the connection up inside either Oliver. I simply leave it connected all the time and stuff the hose back up into the bumper after I'm finished using it. We even keep a second hose stored there also. Is there a reason that most people seem to undo this hose after dumping?

Don't spend the $20.00 or so to get one from the company. Simply buy a replacement cord plug from Home Depot or equivalent and internally short the ground and the neutral. Plug this into the 20 amp outlet on your generator and leave it there until you sell it. All your problems are solved (or at least the ones concerning your surge protector not letting power from your gennie pass through. )

Dometic RM2454