mountainoliver

Concerning the difference between cool mode and dry mode. I have run the unit in dry mode for days on end with the trailer in my driveway. We’ve had multiple 90 degree days with high humidity and by setting the temperature a little bit higher than in cool mode the trailer was kept very comfortable. The only difference (according to the Tosot customer service folks) between cool mode and dry mode is that in dry mode the fan only runs on low. Maybe the on cycle is a little bit longer, I’ve not been able to tell the difference. Everything else is the same. Since we tend to run the fan on low 99% of the time anyway, dry mode really works great for keeping the trailer cool and dry. I probably will only use cool mode to initially get a hot trailer cool using high or turbo fan mode and then switch to dry mode for the rest of the time. It’s interesting to note that the specific temperature settings for any particular mode are remembered as you cycle through the different modes. Anyway, learning as we go.

I just called Automotion shade company in Canada for information about replacement cord for the Oliver window shades. The “kind” receptionist informed me that Vick (our go to guy for window shade questions) no longer works there and that they do not send out replacement parts for the shades. She said that their products are proprietary and they don’t repair them only replace them. If other owners have recently repaired their window shades and have had different results in talking with the Automotion folks please let us know.

Thanks John this takes the mystery out of the “new” Nev-R-Lube type axle that Oliver is now using.

The one axle that has the bent brake backing plate must have really been hit hard! The backing plate on mine is at least 1/8 inch thick steel. With the strengthening ribs and flange it would take a lot to bend it which means the drum must have taken a heavy hit as well. The drum being cast iron could be cracked I wouldn’t use it and if the brake backing plate is tweaked at its mounting flange the shoes will never contact the drum squarely and you’ll always have braking issues with that assembly. You’re doing the right thing to send the entire mess back and get all new assemblies.

No, the internal drain system was abandoned. The condensation now just runs off of the roof.

Yeah, I received the email today and I haven’t even received my mini yet! I’m glad (hopefully) that I got one of the refurbished units. I guess I’ll find out tomorrow.

The old Dometic unit was 13,500 BTU, still last year for example, in the southern Arizona desert we were camped in 115 degree weather. The Dometic ran continuously all day from mid morning until late afternoon. If the temperature dropped to the upper 90’s the unit seemed to be able to cycle off and on but close to and over 100 it would not cycle off while maintaining about 75 degrees in the camper. I question buying an air conditioner smaller than 13,000 BTU unless you never plan on camping in the summer or later on selling it to someone who never wants to camp in the summer. Maybe my old unit was having other issues as well, who knows.

I really like the unit so far. A little disappointed with the owners manual however. They tell us about certain features but they don’t describe exactly what they do. Curious about Xfan function and I can’t tell the difference between air conditioning and the dehumidifier function. The Cielo thermostat was not mentioned to me but I did notice that SDG had one on the wall in the office area! After using the new unit for about a week now in high humidity I’m really thinking about adding the Cielo thermostat.

Because of tariffs on imported goods and other variables it would be best to contact SDG in Elkhart directly for a quote. The Tosot air conditioners that I have seen online lately range from just under 2,000 to just over 2,000 plus shipping. There may be some dealers that offer the units for well below the above listed prices.

After 8 years of use it was time to retire the Dometic air conditioner. I have looked at several brands and for one reason or another I decided on the Tosot brand which is the same as the Atmos brand and probably others as well. Since last summer the Dometic has been making fan bearing noises off and on and I’ve grown tired of climbing on the roof to oil the motor. After eight years I really didn’t want to replace the motor only to have something else fail so this was an excellent excuse to replace it with a higher efficiency quiet unit. We’ve been traveling out west for the past three and a half months and were passing “close” to Elkhart Indiana so decided to drop in and visit the SDG folks. The entire replacement process was perfectly coordinated and our installer Joe knew exactly what needed to be done. We’ve camped out in their parking lot the night before with 30 amp shore power available. The next morning at 8:00 AM I backed our trailer into their shop and about two hours later the job was done. They even printed a custom cover plate to cover up the holes from the old Dometic thermostat. We were able to sleep through the night with the air conditioner running for the first time in 8 years without having to use earplugs, and to watch television at half volume instead of full volume! The air registers force air towards the front of the trailer instead of most all of the cold air being forced onto the bed area. We’re parked in central Ohio for a few days and it’s very hot and humid but the air conditioner is keeping the Oliver very dry and comfortable. On low fan the unit draws about 9 ac amps. Running from the inverter the inverter draws 94 dc amps. The Dometic on inverter would draw between 130 - 140 dc amps under similar conditions. We are extremely pleased with the work that SDG provided and with the comfort and efficiency of the Tosot unit. I strongly recommend the folks at SDG for the air conditioner replacement. They have done several Oliver air conditioner replacements and have experience in replacing/installing air conditioners on many different rv types.

I’m in the midst of a 3 1/2 month western trip with many places that have zero to minimal cell service so have not done nor taken the time to do a lot of research. My axles/springs were installed in Grand Junction Colorado during our trip (I know, white knuckle experience) so I’m still getting used to them. In the beginning I stopped every half hour to check bearing temperature. These are different from the old ones. I also have completely turned the brake control off to make sure that non of the brakes were dragging/overheating. Anyway, developing a new baseline of operation. Now I’ve gone back to my old routine of stopping every couple of hours to check bearing/brake temperature. Right now the only link I have is a screenshot of an Amazon page that I saw. I also have screenshots from a couple of old Airstream forum posts. We should all do more research. I’ll continue in depth when I return home in August. Here’s what I have so far. These are all unedited photos/screenshots. Keep in mind that pre assembled bearing cartridges are not new. The automotive industry has been using them for years. They have been used in industrial applications for years as well. I may be wrong but I personally feel comfortable with the Nev R Lube axle especially knowing that our axles are the smaller of two that use the same size bearing. The 42mm bearing is used in the 5200 pound Dexter axle and the 6000 pound Dexter axle. Plus we’re not going to overload our trailer (now are we?) so our trailer maximum weight rating of 7000 pounds is still the limiting factor. Longevity and maintenance issues remain to be seen and it remains to be seen whether I made a mistake or not.

I’m interested in what Alcan has to say.

Several years ago I was going to replace the bearings and brakes on my 3500 pound axles. I contacted a local Dexter dealer and the hub/drum assemblies were over $100 each and the loaded brake assemblies were close to that as well. Of course e trailer was even higher. I called the Dexter distributor that Oliver was using at the time, Textrail. The hub/drum with Chinese bearings were something like $46 each and the loaded brake assemblies were like $45 each with the manual adjust brake assembly even less. Anyway, e trailer is not necessarily the price leader so check around. And absolutely yes! I’d never buy Timken bearings from Amazon. I bought mine from a local industrial supply company that I dealt with for years. Bearings ordered directly from Timken. I think even the ones from Summit may have been knockoffs as well. I could be wrong on that but it seems like someone did a deep dive into this at one point. Anyway, buyer beware!

The bearing installation tools that I have seen have a bunch of different diameter/different length tubes and a couple of thick discs one being threaded and a forcing screw. I believe the kit is all that’s needed to draw out the old bearing and to then press in the new one. Or so the YouTube videos that I’ve seen seem to show. Anyway, yes I’d carry a complete hub/drum assembly and two or three extra bearings. Also don’t forget to have several of the single use lock nuts on hand. The tru arc snap rings are reusable and pretty standard items.

Okay, risking banishment from the planet and the inevitable public humiliation, my one and only update on my recent axle and spring upgrade. We are in the midst of a 3 1/2 month western trip. Granted a good deal of the trip was planned around a visit to Grand Junction Colorado we have made a complete trip out of that one appointment. I firmly believe that Oliver’s decision to change axles from the 3500 pound version to the 5200 pound version is one of the best decisions made. Nothing like extra capacity. Also the heavier springs are also a great benefit. I have noticed reduced rocking during travel. My original springs had relaxed quite a bit because I had only about an inch or less of clearance between the U bolts and the frame. There is now around an inch and a half to two inches of clearance which is probably a little more than what was originally there. I have done a little research on the Nev R Lube Dexter axles with very limited cell service so more research to come. The bearings used for the 5200 pound axles are also used for the 6000 pound axles. So there is a little bit of extra capacity there. I also found out (not totally confirmed yet) that the bearings are also used for front and/or rear axles in several smaller cars. I also found out (not totally confirmed yet) that the Timken bearing used is a standard Set 49 bearing sold at every auto parts store for a fraction of what Dexter charges. The bearings are fairly easy to replace using a standard automotive wheel bearing press kit. So can be done on the road if needed. The bearing press is available at Harbor Freight and Amazon and I’m sure dozens of other places as well. Of course all the above information is to be confirmed once we get home in August sometime. Others are more than welcome to join in the research.