mountainoliver

If the problem turns out to be a check valve that doesn’t seal properly l can guess why. I constantly find plastic pieces (such as you would see from drilling) in the suction filter screen at the pump and in my anti bug screen covering the fresh tank drain under the trailer. This could be your debris source. You’ll just need to flush everything out well.

I added a master disconnect switch grouping the three jacks together for use both in my driveway and at campgrounds etc. as a theft/mess with deterrent.

Yes, a nest was built in mine while at a campsite for just three nights. I had to take the cover off to get the best out. Just four Phillips screws to remove the cover. I used my Telesteps ladder on one side and 6ft. step ladder on the other. The cover is very light and I removed it without getting on the roof. I used 1/4 x 1/4 hardware cloth to make the three pieces necessary to cover all of the large openings and I attached them with black cable ties. The two side pieces (left hand and right hand) are bent in 90deg to cover both vertical and horizontal openings, and one piece at the rear to cover the vertical openings. I wouldn’t use anything with smaller openings like window screen material as I would think that it could cause excessive airflow restrictions.

Telesteps ladder. Amazon has them. Beware of the “other brands” that may fail or are flimsy. The model that I purchased was the OSHA approved model that has a higher weight rating and seems to be a little stronger.

The photo in my previous post rotated 90 deg when placed in the paragraph, sorry!

My ‘17 Tundra tailgate would hit the Bulldog latch. The truck would sag under load but the trailer was level using the Anderson in it’s highest position. I installed the Firestone air bags to level the truck and was able to lower the hitch one hole so that the trailer is still level. The tailgat now clears by a couple inches. I didn’t have to make much if any change to the Anderson adjustment due to the fact that the relative position between the hitch and trailer remains the same. The air bags require about 15 pounds for a level truck/trailer. I fabricated a manifold so that I can add air to either side or both air bags and have a built in gauge to check the pressure. I also mounted an old Coleman air compressor next to the manifold for adding air, and plug the compressor in the trailer connector as needed.

Not on hard surface roads but many times in snow or in muddy or wet grassy fields with my old truck. Once pulled out a utility trailer loaded with 15 fairly new cross ties and 15 in the truck bed. (Roughly 300 lbs each x 30) Old truck 1996 Dodge 3/4 ton, 12valve Cummins, and 4x4. There was a modification to that truck to enable two wheel drive low. Which is ideal in situations such as you described. When we bought our Oliver we also bought a new Tundra 4x4 with the 5.7L engine. More refined than the old Dodge. I don’t think the Tundra has the center differential. I do sometimes miss that old Dodge though!

<p style="text-align: left;">We also have that app but thought that there may be some favorites out there. We’ll be in the national forest around Ludington</p>

Thanks guys, maybe we can catch up again for barbecue!

We’re going into the south/central area of Michigan soon and would appreciate finding out about your favorite campgrounds and boondocking sites. We’ve traveled in this area by car before and noticed that there are very many parks. Some look nice online some not so much. Thanks!

That’s great news! Owning the finest camping trailer built is a real pleasure! There will be few things that “have” to be done which, will leave more time for relaxing, traveling, or planning.

We’re looking for recommendations for good campgrounds and boondocking areas in southern Michigan. Thanks for any suggestions.

We experienced some dampness and mold under the pantry side mattress. This took place during a western trip this past winter. I understand that this is due to moisture transmission thru the latex mattress while sleeping. The basement area underneath on this side is not heated nearly as much as the basement area under the other bed thus causing condensation under this mattress. We have been using the Hypervent material for several months now. Yes there is some scuffing taking place from the Hypervent material but wouldn’t say the surface is being scratched. We’ll see how well this works in ventilating under the mattress this winter. I also added a small 12 volt fan in the basement under the kitchen side bed to move some of the heat from this side under the floor and to the other side. We’ll see if this also helps reduce condensation this winter.

Yes, the Easy Start will always help the AC start. This is exactly why I would think that the campgrounds and RV parks would want Dometic and other manufacturers to use the Easy Start as a standard. Require less current at startup and extend compressor life equals a win-win.

Mike is correct but remember that either the 2000i or the 2200i will only run the AC alone. The Micro-Air soft start only reduces the heavy load at startup. The running amps will still remain the same. My AC unit draws 14 amps running which includes around 2 amps for the fan. So either of the small generators will be nearly maxed out running the AC. When running the AC with a small generator, make sure any/all other 110 volt items are off.

Mike, just received my magnets from Amazon and installed them with Command tape. I have been looking for something just like this to replace the bungee cord that I have been using. This works great and looks much better, thanks!

I bought the Telesteps 1600EP OSHA compliant ladder thru Amazon. Made a storage bag from indoor/outdoor carpet with the bottom side in and closed with Velcro. When using the ladder I place the bag over the top of the ladder to prevent scratching the camper. It stores in the closet on the bathroom wall side just under the vent pipe. I have two Command hooks on the wall and use nylon string to secure it in place.

With most any generator you will need to connect the ground and neutral together. If you don’t, the onboard Progressive Industries surge protector will not allow power into the camper. If you get on the Progressive Industries website they talk extensively about this very issue, among other pertinent camper related power issues.

I believe they’re 1/2in plywood with thin fiberglass sheet laminated to both sides.

Due to the propane enclosure and the main trailer body being separate I could easily see the relative movement between the two. When the trailer stopped, I could see some flexing. I would expect to see a little but, what I saw was way too much so I looked under the tongue area.

With all of your electrical adapters, make sure you have a neutral/ground bonding plug for the generator. If not, the built in surge suppressor won’t allow power from the generator into the camper. A good multimeter may also come in handy as well. Sounds like a fantastic trip home. I know you’ll enjoy the Oliver!

Yes, the two kits that I bought from Oliver were the Redline ones. Pre packaged with everything needed: both inside and outside bearings (cup and cone), seal, spindle nut (I think), washer, and cotter pin. I store these in a ziplock bag with desiccant bag for protection. I too hope to never need to use these while on the road.

I asked for two bearing kits at trailer pick up. They were only $11.00 each. I also requested that the ez flex be greased before pick up. The red grease I selected was based on what Dexter recommended for the bearings and what my truck manufacturer recommended for the universal joints. The ez flex is not that picky about what grease is used so I wanted to carry only one type that would be proper for both the truck U joints and the trailer wheel bearings and yet be readily available at automotive parts stores. I ended up with Valvoline No.W615 in 14.1 oz tubes.

I carry two bearing/seal sets (enough for two wheels). I also carry the tools to install them. That would be a steel drift, a brass drift about 1/2 dia. x 6 to 8 inches long, and a steel plate 6 x 6 by about one inch thick to support the hub when driving the bearings/seal in or out. I hope to never have to use these while on the road! I also carry a small electrical parts kit with crimp on terminals etc., a handful of each size fuse that is used, and a couple spools of 16 ga. wire.

Another owner told me about “Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure”. This a sealer that is as thin as water and able to wick into very small cracks. If you clean the gasket edge and apply the sealer with a small artist brush the streaking will stop. It’s about the color of milk but dries clear. I have applied the sealer a couple of times over the past year. Because water naturally drips around the light fixture edges, you’ll still have some dirt streaks that can be seen but these wash off much easier.