KountryKamper

After riding on the hubs and the stress on the axles and suspension from this whole ordeal I'm not sure I would want to fix what you have except Maybe temporarily and get it back to the factory. I would want the axles replaced at a minimum and have them go over everything else.

Wow, glad everyone is OK! Post pictures when you can.

Watch this video and it will explain better than I can in a post.

What was the problem with the fridge?

There is 120 volt, 12 volt and USB on each side of the nightstand as standard.

Our hitch was at 23.5" originally and that was too high and is now at 22" and the trailer is level.

The Care Free is no longer available and you would be getting the Dometic. It is offered in manual or powered as a option. The Dometic is free standing and has no legs. It can be opened in a partial position anywhere along the stroke. The pictures of the awning you are looking at with legs are old pictures and that awning is no longer offered.

Here is ours hooked up to our Escape at the house. You can buy the plug if you don't want to make one. https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-Trailer-Accessory-Portable/dp/B00FYUCQXK/ref=asc_df_B00FYUCQXK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241895364904&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18148374487848260269&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013674&hvtargid=pla-556581978378&psc=1

You can also change the plug on a portable solar panel to a 7 pin female plug and wire it to the charge and ground lines. Then you just plug the portable solar panel into the trailers 7 pin plug and your charging on solar. No it does not work while driving but we run the fridge on propane while driving and let the truck charge the trailer. I have done it this way for many years now and never found a need for a separate solar port.

Our Escape had a Dometic fan that they said was part of the fridge and was not shown on the wiring diagram either. I had so many problems with the one in our first Escape I ran it on the patio for a few days testing things. It was a total reject 8000 model Dometic that was designed for Europe and would not work in warm climates and Dometic would not step up to the plate so everyone was stuck with a junk box that would not work half the time. I added insulation and fans to get it to work halfway. I made a connection out of copper pipe to connect to the low pressure port on the trailer. It only needs 12 volt and you don't have to hook up the 115 unless you want to run it on that to test run it.

I clean the burner area and that's about it. I have cleaned the exhaust tube on other campers but never really got much out of them so don't worry about it anymore. Most any camper you would have to pull the fridge to change a fan. On ours you can disconnect the ground wire at the terminal block and kill the fan. We had lots of problems with one of our Escape fridges and had to pull it 4 times. Its really not a big deal and is just a few wires, propane line and a few screws.

No need for a $200 grease gun. Use the money you save for latex gloves, rags and knee cushions because it's a messy job regardless of what gun you have. I have found that this 90 degree fitting on the end of the hose makes it easier to get on and off the fittings. https://www.amazon.com/Plews-05-050-Degree-Swivel-Coupler/dp/B000GKU0D6/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_tab_ap_asin_title

This is what Oliver was using. https://www.walmart.com/ip/MYSTIK-665005002080-Grease-Petroleum-Mineral-Oil-14-oz-PK50/46529709?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1122&adid=22222222228033895704&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=55462444658&wl4=pla-86387583938&wl5=1025954&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=101593696&wl11=online&wl12=46529709&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkoDmBRCcARIsAG3xzl8Qfx_3qoc72pTloWvC2D0MBbGs7YduP6yt3XR5MrZkNu63F0ILX9EaAqzPEALw_wcB

KWR Unless they have changed something those switches should be a 3 way and you should be able to turn the pump on and off from either location. I would check the wiring on the back of the switches to make sure there is no loose wiring.

Ours has a drain hole in each corner.

Also if you don't get the roof antenna you will have a FM antenna stuck to the inside of the street side window under the radio that I don't think looks very good.

I removed the regulator from our Weber 1200 and replaced the hose on our Little Red Campfire to eliminate the requlator on it and run both off the camper quick connects and they run great. I use the shut off on the quick connect to control the height of the Campfire. The Weber has its own valve to control the heat. I think you will have a problem running through 2 regulators.

The antenna also works as a FM antenna for the radio. We use it a lot for both TV and radio and would suggest it. Also use the Cell booster and it works good. Usually adds 2 bars to our signal. We don't have to street side awning so can't help you there.

I was not able to weigh each side separately on any of the scales I have been on. It would be interesting to know just for reference what the difference was if you can find those numbers. Surely the numbers on the chart are minimum numbers.

Also consider you don't know the weight sitting on each tire. It could be very different between the 2 sides but could also be different between front and rear axle. All 4 tires are not going to be carrying the exact same weight even though I would think it close. The road side has the batteries sitting on top of them, the curb has the fridge and kitchen. Casitas were famous for blowing out curb side tires because of that side always being heavier on most models. Unless you weigh each tire individually there is no way to really know so you need to add some PSI to the minimum as a safety factor.

Our trailer is 5500 lbs loaded and I run 57 PSI in the tires. Last year I ran 60 PSI but lowered it a little this year. I have a Dill TPMS and can not tell that the tires are running any hotter so I think that 57 will be my sweat spot for now. They felt really good on our trip last week.

I had the Sumo springs on our Tundra and they worked great. Helped with the sag and the truck felt much stabler in corners without the trailer. They did not make the truck ride any rougher when I had no load. There was about 1/8" between the springs and frame without a load. They were easy to install and I did it myself.

You could add a propane conversion kit to either the 2200 or 3000 and have the option to run on gas or propane. Makes for more options and less weight. https://hutchmountain.com/products.html

We have one of the Sensorpush also. I like the alarming and logging functions of it. It will alarm my phone as long as the battery is good while driving if something goes wrong with the fridge like me turning it off by accident at our last stop. It is blue tooth so distance is limited but will usually reach to the truck or anywhere in the campsite.

I use a similar one to Rumline only ours has the time, date and a alarm clock. I used the one JD uses for years but wanted to have a sensor between the hulls, outside, fridge and freezer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EW4970O/ref=twister_B00FIWSVRO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1