KountryKamper

Phil Tell Matt he is missing a big advertising market with us Ollie fanatics. If you had that hat made locally Matt surely could get some made before the rally and have them for sale there.? Tshirts would be nice too. ?

That's what the light is suppose to do. It goes out when the water heater ignites. Is you electric switch on inside the water heater cover outside? Edit: We posted at the same time. Sounds like you got it except for the bathroom being reversed.

I would say that is the problem. This is off etrailer. Tow Ready Wiring - 20142 Designed for use with vehicles that have lamp-out sensors, this adapter ensures that your trailer with LED lights does not trigger any warnings or hyperflashing when hooked up to your vehicle's 7-way, blade-style connector. Features: Bypasses your vehicle's lamp-out sensor so that you can tow a trailer with LED lightsPrevents your vehicle's computer from sensing that a trailer light is burned out, which is how it would normally read the LED lights on the trailer Designed for use with vehicles with Lamp-Out sensors - such as Audi, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, and Porsche Plugs into the 7-way, RV-style trailer connector on your vehicle Provides a new 7-way, RV-style trailer connector that works with trailers that have LED lights If you have a vehicle with a factory tow package that has a lamp-out sensor and you tow a trailer that has LED lights on it, then you've likely experienced hyperflashing and/or false computer errors. Because LEDs pull such a small amount of power, certain sensors are unable to detect them. The result is a warning in your vehicle that continuously tells you that the trailer lights are not functioning. In addition, the lights on your trailer may not illuminate properly because of your vehicle's inability to recognize LED lights. This can lead to either hyperflashing lights on the trailer or lights that will not illuminate at all. This adapter has a built-in bypass system that is designed to eliminate these problems. Just plug the adapter into your vehicle's 7-way, RV-style trailer connector and you're good to go. Plug the wiring connector from your LED-lit trailer into the adapter's 7-way, blade-style receptacle and the trailer's lights will illuminate as they're supposed to, without triggering errors in your car's computer. 20142 Tow Ready 7-Pole Blade to 7-Pole Blade Trailer Connector Adapter for VW, Audi, Mercedes-Benz, and Porsche Towing Trailers with LED Lights

Bill Is that mixture for the inside your idea or is it in the directions? Thanks

I just received a email with this link. I did not know it was getting a new transmission and heads up display. https://www.gmc.com/future-vehicles/2020-sierra-heavy-duty-truck?eVar36=MRM_eml_GMC_HR_T1XX_TR_0119_15679953022

These are really cool but like you said I wonder about integration with the Oliver. I had read about some of these when we were looking at new trucks last year but GM had some great year end close outs on the 2018 3/4 ton trucks and I figured it might be hard to get that kind of deal again. I think this is coming out on the 2020 models that they say are coming out this summer.

Weight is a big deal at my age. 47 lbs compared to 74 lb is lot easier to handle. You have to hook it up and fuel it so you have to handle it. Smaller foot print, great propane conversion packages available, and it runs anything I need and barely ramps up even when our A/C starts with the easy start installed.

We bought ours from Generator Depot for $899 when they had them on sale. No tax and free shipping https://www.electricgeneratordepot.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAy-_iBRAaEiwAYhSlA9OHZeFvA5PrJU10Bpex2Zsiq57mTmdTxy0_P2YJdwuy6h4e0esAPxoCSJoQAvD_BwE

The 30 Amp plug on the companion model will still require a adaptor to plug your trailer 30 Amp plug into. The standard model has some features like 12 charging the companion does not have. Normally the companion is bought 2nd if you feel you need more power. We have the 2200 and have converted it with the Hutch Mountion propane conversion that allows you to run on either gas or propane. Great generator.

I used the 3M Scotch guard. Bought it in bulk. Its suppose to not yellow and be easier to apply. Since I have not use anything else I can not verify that.

I would tip toe into this. We had a Trunda Limited we traded for our GMC. We are planning much longer trips these days and hope to be on the road more over the next few years. Don't misunderstand, the Tundra did a good job pulling our E2. It was maxed out but had no problem pulling it. Yes our 3/4 ton does a much better job and is more relaxing when towing. I can't give any help on the Nissan but will say this. I payed 10k more for a top of the line GMC. I would think the Nissan should be capable but would not settle for something less then what I wanted when spending that kind of money.

Yes, is very remove easy to remove using a hair drier or a heat gun. Contrary to what John says it is also easy to install and goes around bends very easy. It's made to apply around bumpers and mirrors on cars and you can pull it around almost any curve. The curves on the Oliver are easy to go around. It applies like window tint. I had never installed it before so bought a little extra to experiment with. I made a pattern out of paper for my templates. If you follow the instructions and use the proper soap mixture it just slides around until you squeegee it down. If you look close at the picture I posted above you can see the line in the middle. I used 18" bulk material so it is 18" up from the bottom. I also installed it along the bottom behind the tires. The bulk material can be bought in many widths. Like I said it has been on for a year and still looks great and no road chips. I have no need for something as complicated as John installed as we don't travel the kind of roads he does. https://www.invisiblemask.com/imask/index.php?route=common/home&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkMDiBRDNARIsACKP1FFhTmefn6lgAAQUFvkL9MiMMxnIsPNCYmWZvvCjFPDOxWUlasd9F04aAgVnEALw_wcB

I installed automotive clear paint protection film over a year ago and have over 10,000 miles on it without any chips so far.

Diesel is basically a 9K-10K investment. That said I felt it was worth it. Our truck is effortless pulling the trailer with 445 HP and 901 ft lbs of torque. 100,000 mile warranty on the drive train of the diesel model. We get better gas milage then the gas model and can go over 500 miles on a tank of fuel while towing, 600 when not towing. The engine exhaust brake makes downhills a breeze and I don't even touch the brakes coming down most mountions. I can pull up a mountain and it barely knows the trailer is there. I have drove pickups for 30 years and this is probably the last one I will buy so I went all the way with it. Plus it's just a really cool truck. ?

We had a Tundra also and were just over the payload capacity when fully loaded for a long trip. I wanted to replace the tonneau cover with a rear topper that would have put us 350 lbs over the Tundra max payload. We moved up to a 3/4 ton and am glad we did and now don't have to worry about capicaty any longer.

Steve that one is not the correct wiring. ?

Sorry to hear that. Here you go.

We use the weber Q1200 and have it converted to run off the camper quick connects.

I use a little 4" level I have had for years that fits in the drawer and is handy. You don't need anything big.

The door on the basement hatch could be easily removed.

Not suppose to jack the axles. They can bend and be damaged.

I always raise the front of the trailer a few degrees. I want any rain water to run off the rear and not near the door. Also the bath sink and shower drain better. The refrigerator door does not swing open against the hinges either. Also makes for better dumping if you have full hookups.

I have the magnets but did not install them because they were so strong. Great idea.

Did you use the on board pump to winterize? If so you should not have antifreeze in the tanks so they should be OK if they were drained. Did you drain the water heater? Did you use a hand pump for the outside shower and black water flush? Did you pour antifreeze in all the traps including the shower? I would start looking at the pump/water heater connections then the sink connections behind the drawers since it's on that side.

Not trying to be confrontational but I am curious. You all must carry a lot more valuables then we do. Most of mine fit in my pocket. We carry computers and tablets in the truck which is more secure then the trailer and has a alarm on it. We even leave our camper door unlocked most of the time because if someone wants in I would rather they just go in and take what they want then rip our door open. We leave nothing of any value in the camper. Opening the camper door is so easy if they don't care about damaging it that's its a joke. What kind of things need to be so secure?