hobo

Claudia, Donna and I would purchase a couple too. I thought hard about how to cleanly and repeatedly make the cut-outs in the plastic and have some ideas but haven't gotten around to actually implementing my thoughts. If I ever get around to it, and if it worked out, I'd just send you either the finished base pieces for your production process or provide you the jig. It's your idea so I wouldn't want anything except to see you succeed in your business. Hoping you just make a few and sell them so I don't have to do "too much thinkin". Paul & Donna (2 HOBOS)

I have my reservations already but the wife was asking the actual dates of next years rally and I couldn't remember. Can someone advise? Thanks, 2 Hobos

John, We just booked site #56. Donna and Paul Polk, Hull #414 (2 HOBOS). Berryville, VA Thanks for all the leg work. Not too many sites left for smaller trailers such as ours so anyone thinking about it, should move out sooner rather than later.

I owned a DiamondBack for several years on my Dodge and was fairly satisfied with it. Fairly watertight. Unlike my Bakflip which leaks like a sieve. Downside with the DiamondBack is the center panel. It prevents large items being put into the bed unless you unclamp and remove the whole thing which is somewhat cumbersome and time consuming. Also, a lot of "stuff" on the underside which gets in the way of loads. The ultimate hard lid is the Renegade. When I finally get rid of my BakFlip (which came from the factory on my truck), that's what I'm going to put on it. Expensive!

Steve, How did you tie into the camera power? Also, inside the "vanity"? Is this the overhead cabinet above the toilet or behind the towel bar below the sink? Thanks,

Here's what I have as recommended by my body shop detailer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07343W387/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Related/Unrelated: I would STRONGLY encourage anyone with a transfer switch (box under rear dinette seat) to occasionally (maybe annually) open it up and check the tightness of all the connections. (BTW: ONLY APPLICABLE TO TRAILERS THAT HAVE THE OPTIONAL 30 AMP RV RECEPTACLE ON THE FRONT). These connections within the plastic box, if loose, can and will cause extreme heat and potential fire hazard. I speak from experience. BEFORE DOING THIS; DISCONNECT ALL SHORE POWER!

Just FYI. The bumper will actually hold 40' of hose. Just barely, but it fits.

Having done a lot of research, I chose the Harbor Freight Predator 3500 over either of the Hondas (2-2200 watt or their 3000 watt). The Predator 3500 can run everything without hesitation. The Predator can also be companioned with another 3500 if ever needed (at home for instance) whereby the Honda 3000 cannot be companioned. The price of the Predator is about 1/3 of the Honda and has proven to be extremely reliable and extremely quiet. OK, the cons: It is heavy (about 100 lbs so we leave it in the basket (which I modified). The Honda has a three year warranty whereby the Predator only has a one year warranty but an additional year can be purchased (fairly cheaply) which provides a new replacement unit if ever required. If you do a YouTube search you can find truckers who have used the Predators behind their cabs in very harsh conditions for many, many hours and have had really good luck with them. There are a few things that I would do with a Predator right away though. Change the oil at about 5 hours, and then again at about 10 hours. After that, change as recommended. I also replaced the dipstick plug with a magnetic one (about $10 on Amazon). Finally, get rid of the cheap chinese spark plug and replace with a high quality plug (NGK for instance). Not sure about the current Predator 3500 but mine doesn't have a fuel gauge. If I can find a kit to convert, I will. In the meantime, I'm going to fill it up and run the trailer with AC on this summer to see how long a tank of fuel actually lasts. The manual says up to 11 hours but I don't trust that. I'll report back.

For those less industrious, "GO-STIK" products makes a single (4') aluminum towel bar that attaches with suction cups. Major difference is that the GO-STIK only has a single bar vice triple. The GO-STIK product is obviously more expensive. I have the GO-STIK myself and it suits my needs but I do like the OPs design. Another note: Make sure you avoid putting the suction cups on any graphics.

At the rally last month, I noted the demo trailer had the weather stripping applied about 4 or 5 inches below the brackets vice right up against them. It looked really nice and you can see where the collected water and debris issue is mitigated. I got the product information from them and will be ordering the same weather stripping to replace on both awnings on my 2018. Always hated the stained, brown water running down the corners. I didn't see any other trailers modified the way but I liked what I saw.

Ironic that you bring this up at this time. A couple of weeks ago we were camping in the mountains of VA with some friends and enjoyed a really nice fire each day as did several folks in the near vicinity. One evening, the wind picked up tremendously while I was laying in bed and I started to wonder about all the hot coals from all the campfires being blown about. That got me to thinking about the chance of a fire breaking out in the surrounding forested areas. I was pondering the need for an immediate escape plan. Nothing came of the wind but the potential is always there in every camping situation that an emergency departure might become a reality. To that end, we're going to develop and execute a quick escape procedure.

Everytime I log in, I get a message that the forum has detected that I'm logging in from a "new device". Same computer I've used for years. Why this notice each time I log in now?

In a previous life, I transported very sensitive materials all around the world for a federal agency and never have I seen packaging as "bomb proof" as Foy's. I recently opened a drawer assembly he sent us and it probably took longer for me to unpackage the drawer parts than it did for him to actually produce the packaged items. Unbelievable. You know before you even get to the actual contents that this is going to be a quality product. Thanks Foy.

I do the cleaning of our composting toilet and have never seen any evidence of urine getting mixed in with the compost. Neither my wife nor I seem to have an aiming issue. Let's for a moment suppose that a little urine does go into the compost; so what? There is no smell from the intended waste that normally goes into the compost pot, so why would I worry about a little urine getting in there too? We love the composting toilet. No black water to have to deal with. When we get home from a trip, I simply run the grey water out on the ground from a ground pipe I installed in our storage barn. No muss, no fuss. Had to borrow a section of hose from a fellow camper one time to reach the drain pipe at our campsite. He lent me a section of some of his blackwater hose. DISGUSTING!!

I put wax on ours (candle type wax, not car wax) and it has helped immensely. Simple fix.

I know you're not picking up your Ollie until December, but in the meantime, how are you liking your F350 gasser? That is exactly the combination I'm thinking of as a replacement for the Dodge 3500 Megacab diesel I just sold.

Might want to check to see if there is some debris in the channel at the top of the frame where the fabric meets it. There is a little trough there. Maybe somethings is wedged in there.

Looks like you have both the clear glass AND a camera. Nice setup.

We use the collar lock shown above with an ABUS lock. https://www.taylorsecurity.com/abus-20/80-diskus-padlock/0021102/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx5vzoLC88AIVnP7jBx0i1QrmEAYYAyABEgJSgvD_BwE The ABUS lock is German made and has been tested to be one of the very hardest/ most difficult locks to pick. Other similar locks take only seconds to pick by someone who knows what they're doing. I use an ABUS lock when it counts.

Sounds like a line has completely severed. I would start with the simple and look under the curb side bed for any obvious leak. Odds are you only have one leak somewhere but it's enough to flood the basement where the scuppers are allowing it to release. I wouldn't panic. Also, just curious as to whether you are using a pressure regulator on the incoming water? Keep us informed. 2 Hobos (Paul)

I like your tether better than the ones I'm making. If available, I might pick one up from you at the non-rally. 2 Hobos will be parked in row D.

Thanks Bill: Good point. In fact, I am working on tethering lots of things on "2 Hobos" as we speak. Just yesterday, I tethered the lock pin for the hitch to the frame, I tethered the pins for my hydraulic jacks to the body of the jacks, and next is the access cover to the propane lid. I'm working an issue with Mopeka (propane level sensors) right now so have the occasion to remove the cover multiple times. I have one sensor that wants to read 7% (empty) about 90% of the time even after re-doing everything several times.

Just a little fly-in-the-ointment, please realize that at the end of a particular model year, as supplies run out of select items that are destined to be upgraded in the next year model, some of the next year upgrades may appear in the last few previous year models produced. We have the last 2018 produced and I believe there are a couple of 2019 features included. These would generally be minor changes though.

John, If you drop anchor here in Berryville, you can simply drive east of us for about 35-40 minutes and get on the metro rail system that will take you right into DC. No traffic or parking worries. For that matter, if we're around, I'd be glad to take you into the metro stop and pick you up whenever you got back. You also need to visit the Smithsonian's Air and Space museum complex on the grounds of Dulles Airport. IAD is a easy drive from here. It's about 15 miles west of DC lodged between us and the District.