hobo

I installed the exact set last week in hull 414. I will provide one caution: It is possible to "over compress" the inner and outer frames when seating the male and female serrated tabs when re-assembling. If you do that, you end up forcing the inner frame to push us against the glass on the inside that will warp it slightly. If that happens, the tightly fitted shade will not fit properly. (You can guess how I know this). Only compress the frames to the point where the edges just "touch the glass. If however, you end up "gorilla-izing" the job and go too far, simply use the shims previously used to separate the frames to release tension on the affected portion. Easy-Peasy. Just a lesson learned the hard way. HOBO

Thanks.

We had a very similar issue in our 2018 LE2 this past summer. Fortunately, it happened while we were at the Oliver rally and expert help was literally all around us. Long story short; our transfer switch almost caught on fire (worse than yours looking at the pic). It was determined that there was a loose connection in the box which caused a "low voltage" error code in the EMS in the overhead, rear compartment. Low voltage equals "heat". Don't remember off hand if the code was E4 or E8 but the system stores past codes so you should check yours to see what it reads. In our situation, the Oliver Service folks at the rally arranged for us to get the trailer serviced the following day (first day following the rally) back at the mother-ship. Transfer switch was replaced and we were headed back to VA before lunch time, no charge. Recommend everyone with a transfer switch in their units (only applicable to units with the second 30 AMP receptacle for a generator), disconnect their shore power, open up the transfer switch (located under rear dinette seat) and check tightness of their connections. Might be something you would want to do annually if you bounce down the road a lot each year. They shouldn't loosen up but....... 2 HOBOS

Curious as to how you have the controls for AC and heat configured now? Do you retain the original controls for the propane furnace (only)? Also, does your Houghton have a heat strip also?

UPDATE ALSO: In the installation videos they show the outside frame should be taped to keep it in place. DO IT! I thought I would defy the local wisdom and simply hold the glass and frame in place while removing the old glass and putting in the new: Well two things happened (neither of which were good). First, while trying to push the new window firmly into the outside frame (to compress the caulking while seating the glass, I loosened up the outer frame thereby requiring I remove the outer frame from the door and re-caulk it since I broke the bead. Second reason for the tape is to hold the new glass in place while you are messing with trying to snap the inner and out frames together. I again learned a valuable lesson because when it was all over and done, it appears the glass slipped down slightly which has caused the inner frame to be slightly warped which prevents me from putting in the tightly fitted shade. Once you put the new glass in place, recommend you apply duct tape to it to keep it in position while you're wrestling with the frames. That said, I am now faced with taking the inner frame apart from the outer frame (praying I don't break any of the tabs on my newly purchased inner frame) and then removing and re-caulking the new glass and essentially doing the project twice.

Thanks for the pic. Perfect.

I will attest to the fact that when replacing the glass, you might as well resign yourself to the fact that you'll probably end up replacing at least the inside frame. The inside frame is where the female tab (two serrated wings which ride over the square male post) are located. Regardless of how careful you are using the provided spreader clips, invariably, several of the wings will break off. In my case, six of them broke. I am not replacing the outside frame as new caulking is provided with the Zarcor kit and the outside frame is undamaged when separating the two halfs. If you don't want to mess with dealing with Lippert (window manufacturer), Zarcor has the frames in stock. I paid about $23 for the inside frame. If I were to do this again, I'd go ahead and order the inside frame moulding when I ordered the window. My guess is you could return it if you didn't need it. At least you'd have the part in hand if you did break some of the tabs thus finishing the project in relatively short order vice having to stop and order another piece.

Thanks.

Frank, What bit did you use to chamfer the holes in the fiberglass? Also, I assume you did that step before you enlarged the hole to 1/4"?

Looking forward to seeing the install video. Glad I could pass on John's generous offer. Win/win for everyone. HOBO

We're installing a tinted with white blinds. I'll let you know how it turns out.

I was talking to John (owner of ZARCOR) today with a technical question and he advised me they are looking for someone in the Dallas, TX area with a late model (2021 or newer) Oliver Elite so they can install and film one of their very nice door replacement windows. They will provide the parts and labor free-of-charge for use of the trailer to do the installation video. Here's an opportunity for a free upgraded window and your trailer will be a star. Call John at ZARCOR and tell him I sent you over. Paul

I believe at the rally demo, it was suggested to keep a check valve in the repair kit too. I just don't remember what size.

Yeah, yeah, yeah: it's to pay for that new Georgia mansion. We know what's going on. (love you guys). 2 HOBOS

I'd be looking at a Nordic Tug 26 or a Sargo 25 or 28. Especially if I lived on the west coast.

OK, so when my wife asks me where the "burning old socks" smell is coming from, I'll have an answer.

John, Following your findings and installation as well. Very interested in this product but your insight will be particularly helpful as you are the latest test case and you'll certainly find "better" ways to do it. That's just the "John Davies" touch we've come to expect.

Just for clarification: You say "One is mounted on the horizontal tubes that zig zag on the rear of the refrigerator..." Does this mean I have to access the refrigerator from the inside of the trailer or is everything done from the outside? Sorry if I misunderstood your directions.

I'd be interest in your research: It would seem to me (and I'm certainly no mechanical engineer) the function of the refrigeration process which causes heat to build up in the refrigerant during the cooling process , occurs regardless of which energy source you're using to drive it. (otherwise, no cold air). The ARP product apparently protects the system by shutting it down before it gets to a critical temperature which will cause catastrophic damage to the hardware. Most issues apparently are caused by the gases and liquids within the system requiring the units to be fairly level so liquid levels can remain within operating design parameters. (This is my understanding anyway.) If there is something I'm missing, would love to learn more about it. Thanks

I purchased a set. Thanks for the heads-up.

Issue I had, when leaving it open when traveling, is the foam gasket came loose a couple of times. I keep mine closed now only for that reason.

Where in the bottom pic is the location of the temperature sensor ? Is it behind the shield on the right side?

Would also like to know whether you notice the fans (noise) when you're sitting outside under the awning?

Did you do the install yourself? Otherwise, how difficult is the installation process?

Curious if the caps "screw" in or do they simply slip in? Getting the cap on and off on my trailer is a two handed operation which is what I would like to mitigate with quick connects. Thanks, BTW: Eley are the absolute best!