Geronimo John

My 2018 Owner's manual shows I have this one. But the below does not seem to match the above. So since I am wanting to purchase a thermocouple for MY unit, which parts list would I use from the above? Sure wish I could just walk out to my imaginary Texas Man Cave and look myself..... GJ

OK, I'm confused. Is it a Dometic or an Atwood? From the Panther sites, it appears that the Dometics are not the Atwoods. Please clear my foggy mind or some strong coffee! Which model does our our OE2's have GJ

For owners with hard water sources, some of the defensive measure are: Filtration of incoming water. Frequent vinegar de-calcification. Lowering the hot water temperature set point. Using a city water pressure "L" shaped flushing wand to flush solids from your hot water tank. Use it more than just at end of season! Keeping a good quality anode in the hot water heater. If you see wire, you waited too long. Remove faucet aerators and wands for vinegar cleaning at least annually. While you have them removed, full flow flushing your lines one at a time. Do hot and cold flushing separately, not at the same time. Avoid very hard water sources when you can. Or at least don't fill your fresh water tank full if you can get by with less. Fully drain and flush your water systems at the end of the season even if you do not winterize! Consider wands that have bigger holes. All of the above will help reduce problems. But if you find that they don't, you'll need to consider using a water softener to lower the hardness of water from all your water supply sources. Here is one of the reviews for the ten best water softeners for RV's. https://buyersguide.org/water-softener-for-RV/t/best?Country=US&m=e&d=c&c=659084136666&p=&oid=kwd-2066914159841&lp=9032812&li=&nw=g&nts=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pTq4CWP-deBiQy2P_b4K_q0yn0LBGjkFPVOQI0RMo0TMsFYO411bcxoC-wUQAvD_BwE&tdid=10957326&gad_source=1 GJ PS: For an OE2 you do not need a 16,000 grain water softener. Take a look at what other owners are using via our forum.

Hard water can easily calcify those really small nozzles thereby reducing flow substantially.

Yep, such countermeasures are not compatable with wind sensor auto roll up systems. Gotta pick your poison. This one works for us: "Leave, roll-er-up" seems to work every time. For this purpose, I consider sleeping or not in use is the same as leaving. GJ

Actually the standard valve settings posted under the hatch have nothing to do with isolation of the HWH from the system when winterizing. To isolate the hot water you use the valve that is located low behind the small portal on the street side in front of the HWH. Hard to find the first time for sure.... GJ

First, I would suggest getting the plumbing part from a big box store. Almost none of the plumbing is "special". For the aluminum storage box, suggest you ask if any of the owners who have upgraded to the nice enclosed boxes would like to sell their unused OTT aluminum boxes. Likely get one for half price... GJ

One was created a year or so ago. Posted on the forum. I"m thinking it was GalwayGirl. Anybody recall? It was quite detailed and listed several years of forum QC items to check. Impressive actually. GJ

2008RN Roger. It will be this summer, likely in late July. GJ

Going Costal: 1000% agree with all! Your post reminded me to get a spare thermocouple! Thanks. GJ

This is a nice start on the cost rollback for the system. If you are buying new axles, are the cost of disks vs. drums a wash? Then you need hydraulic lines and the EOHA. Does this bring the costs down significantly enough for reconsideration as your "This Summer's" project? GJ

Highly recommend using a polarized plug. One never knows who is going to plug what into that outlet. With a polarized plug, the clue less will pause and ask (hopefully) before causing issues for your trailer's electrical by not knowing.... Idiot proof it and live well knowing what you now that they don't. 🙂 GJ

Water supplies that are not chlorinated will do that. Tanks that sit full for a long time without use especially so. Change the anode, flush well and treat. Drain, remove anode, flush and flush again, treat and flush again, install new anode, fill and burp (TP Valve on Top) before turning on!. Here is one I have used often in facilities maintenance: "Using a hydrogen peroxide solution of 2 pints 3% peroxide to 40 gallons of water, treat tank and run some of the solution into water lines. Let the peroxide solution set in tank and pipes for 2 hours. Solution is not toxic and requires no rinsing It kills off the bacteria." it says no flush necessary... but I flush it anyway. Safety John (AKA GJ)

I sure like your weather proof Anderson port way better than my plastic one. Can you share a cut sheet or purchase info for it? Is it weather proof on the back side as well? Thanks GJ

From a risk management perspective, the three way eventually will cause issues with an OOPS plug in. Why not just use one Zamp port labeled solar input, and a second one next to it labeled Power Port? No confusion that the switch may cause AND you could for the same cost have a solar input and load attached at the same time. Also "Wired straight to the batteries" is something to ponder upon. Suggest having an inline fuse on all inputs/outputs. Just for safety grins. GJ

Were you not happy with the Truma? Just wondering. GJ

And that's if you are only a flatlander. If you go up into real mountains, then I would suggest saying "Should never even come anywhere close to maxing out the capabilities of their rig.". It's always about having a significant margin of safety for your gear, loved ones, and others that may need to get involved.

Are you going with a disk brake version with electric over hydraulic? GJ

Our solar power port is similar to the Z-Amp one. I chose to mount it on the battery compartment door itself. Ran wires to the litho's and shunt with a fuse in line. Rationale is keeping the run as short as possible and not drilling another hole in the fiberglass wall of Ollie. GJ

Yep they do work on the spares. Researched and then called the MFG and they confirmed my faulty memory. Have re-written my above post accordingly. The transmitter sends a milli-second burst of the ID number, pressure and temperature data whenever there is air pressure from the tire to the monitor. It will be read on the monitor IF: It is within it's range Has a good battery AND it is not shielded from the monitor (Such as under the vehicle was for my Toyota Sequoia For my Sequoia the tire sensor was shielded well and did not work. I'll be re-installing the sensors on my spares this summer! GJ PS: For winter storage, recommend the Egg Carton storage suggestion with removal of the batteries from the sensors to protect from potential battery generated corrosion.

That's interesting. I'm running a 2018 EEZTire TPMS as well. I purchased six sensors plus a spare so i could monitor Ollie and 2 spare tires. I'll go find my info and advise why I pulled them off my spare tires. Will be good to know for sure. More to follow.... GJ

Nope. Most TP sensor systems are designed so that when the tire is sitting, the sensor shuts off. So you'll never know if it gets flat. Yep they do work on the spares. Researched and then called the MFG and they confirmed my faulty memory. The transmitter sends a milli-second burst of the ID number, pressure and temperature data when ever there is air pressure from the tire to the monitor. So long as the sensor has a good battery AND it is not shielded from the monitor (Such as under the vehicle was for my Toyota Sequoia and possibly my F-150).... it is sending that data. For my Sequoia the tire sensor was shielded well and did not work. I'll be re-installing the sensors on my spares this summer! GJ

Ditto. I highly agree as we all learn best by doing the task in ideal conditions. When it happens on the road they are able to do what they need to do safely and with confidence. I would also add giving them a learning experience with: Battery corrosion removal Oil change Windshield wiper replacements Engine air filter cleaning and change when needed Each was a great confidence builder for them, and results in far less worry for Dad when they head down the road. Even more grins for Dad was watching the next older train the next younger on the process. By the time my youngest (daughter) got to do them, she had watched it before and was on autopilot. Took Dad three days to lose the Perma-Grin. GJ

Mine is 4 years old and used often. Highly recommend it with a 5aH litho battery. Roger: Highly recommend you bring down your OE2 tire pressure to 50 or even less especially if running ALCONS. GJ

Use a wood toothpick and a bit of Tightbond glue in the hole. Don't over tighten it. Replace the other screw and they will match.