Geronimo John

All of the listed suggestions apply to paved and well maintained gravel roads. Granted not always heavily traveled, but easy to do with a 2wd TV and good tires. But put on the yoga pads plus a serious set of mud flaps...... GJ

Yep, but you are faster on the key board than I. 🙂

Steve: I was good all the way to the words "is actually a good idea as it protects the circuit from both ends". That logic applies to circuits that have the ability to power up the home-run from both ends. Like the DC to DC charging system. However I do agree that having a fuse at the front jack, although somewhat redundant, does serve a great purpose. When I leave my trailer unintended in a boondock location for which there may be a theft concern, I lower the tongue and remove the fuse. Certainly makes a quick scope, connect and getaway much more effort for the thief. GJ

TravelWell: This appears to be your first post, so welcome to our forum. For a 6,000 (loaded) trailer, the OEM use of an E-rated (80 PSI) tire is unusual. Oliver could easily have gone with less stout and lighter C or D rated. But true to the exceptional quality of OTT's, they went with the stronger and much thicker tires that are rated to carry WAY more load. The E-rated tires are much more resistant to road damage as our owners typically include boondocking and roads such as yours in our travels. There are penalties with going with an higher rated tires and they are weight, cost and ride as JD discusses above. That said, I have yet to hear of any OTT owner complain about having too good of a tire tire on their rig. On the other hand, going to an even heavier duty tire such as you proposed would gain little in endurance or failure resistance. But the weight and cost increase would be significant. The third consideration is the forces that high pressure tires transmit up into the trailer. Although our 80 PSI rated tires can handle this pressure, most of our owners are running their trailer tires at the 50 PSI or less on highway and 30 PSI or less off road. Doing so keeps stuff in the cabinets and cushions off the floor. Finally, I know of no OTT owners that use 110 psi rated tires on OTT's for all of the above reasons. GJ

Steve: In a former home in Houston, I had only a 100 amp service. My home electrical panel only had 12 beakers, but was not terribly old, just too small. Same situation as yours in the garage. We needed more breakers and a larger service to the house. I removed the small panel and installed a MUCH larger 42 breaker space panel, kept the main as 100 amps. Moved the old panel to the garage and ran wires to it for a 100 amps garage sub service. Called the power company and complained that every time I struck an arc on my Lincoln welder the lights dimmed in the house, our clocks needed to be reset, and the A/C system would shut off. They sent out a service tech and he determined we needed a 200 amp service. They wanting to sell more power cheerfully installed new overhead at no cost. I then proceeded with construction of a 900 SF addition and a bunch of new wiring throughout the house. GJ

Since your profile and signature does not say what your truck is,,,, and I did not read every post.... If you have a F-150, the forum repeatedly says that the Bilstein's on the rear are a great improvement, and air bags also. But it not worth the cost to install 5100's on the front of a F-150, unless you really want a ride height adjustment. GJ

Yep.

And likely even less if you are a mountain kind of camper. But you will LOVE it on the highway. GJ

More that a few of our owners with F-150's use the Firestone Air Bags and Bilstein 5100's on the rear shocks. I have 18,000 miles on mine and wish I had upgraded earlier. GJ

Alaska Suggestions: The Stone Stompers help for sure. After our 30 days in Alaska, I wish I had also installed the "Yoga Mats" as one very wise owner posted several years ago. Looked dorky, but if I had it to do again.... I would be Mr. Dorky for Alaska. Beware of puddles in the road. I saw where one had broke the back of a well made camper. Have a good spare, air compressor and a plug kit too. Have industrial strength bear spray for each adult. Get Tek Campground reservation/pass six months ahead. Don't sweat boondocking as the opportunities abound. Get the Mile Post Long sleeve, long pants and boots.... YEP! New springs, shocks and serviced bearings. GJ

Steve: So I better understand: Does your Xantrax 12A limit apply to the shore power into your trailer? If so, why do you choose not to use a setting of or approaching 16 amps that a 20 amp circuit is rated to carry continuously?? Thanks GJ

Interesting distinction with regard to the Truma A/C. I am used to seeing a MFG posting a maximum current and sometimes a circuit breaker recommendation. But not a amp rating that is qualified at just one set of interior/exterior run temperatures. I can understand from a liability basis why they would do so. But it really makes their info a lot less reliable for our real world operating conditions.

Good idea! Frankly had not thought to do so!

Was it fire rated for the purpose? Good point. Also, if the leak in in the front tank area, then the heavier than air propane will flow to the ground through the security wire floor and hopfully (Pun) dissipate and not cause any harm. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Hey who loaned Crazy Horse the rabbit suit? I hope he and Emu are not going to hook-up and go for the Allstate Car Insurance commercials! That could be real mayhem!

Good question. As chairperson and founder of the Oliver Rabbit Hole Society, I think you may in time have the experiences and qualifications to be a member. 🙂 GJ

Me too. My point exactly..... For the last 59 27 years we share the same procedure. Off, Disconnect, Reconnect, On, Bleed line. But I did not want to contradict another owner as I have no idea how his regulator works. But AI says........ CRAZY HORSE Fact Check: REVISED: OPV's were only introduced in 1998.

Nit picking response is: Yep for the rears. For the front mine has three bolts. Both would require you to remove the jack foot so that the tube below the hull can be pulled up thru the hull for removal of the whole thing. Same idea for the front one. But your point is spot on. Having a work bench with a vice AND proper impact tools is the best way. GJ

We also have a Honda EU2200 in the bed of our F-150. When we need the generator, I remove it from the truck. It sets on the ground outside of our trailer or truck for "Just in Case" bad things that happen. Having it run in your TV or Tongue Box has several problems. One is that up front you have no line of sight to see a fire. At least if you put the generator on the ground and to the street side, if it cooks off, you have a chance of seeing the fire ball directly. Now I have never heard of a Honda generator "Self-Immolating"..... but if ours does, we will not be exiting the trailer about 4 feet from the fire. With it on the street side we at least could have an opportunity to see the fire ball and exit the trailer on the curb side. I would then grab the cord and disconnect it from the generator. Then use our awning crank as a hook to move the burning generator away from our Ollie. Or it could just sit in a box in the box at the front of Ollie and maybe the auto fire extinguishing system will overcome the leaking gasoline fire. Or if you run it in the TV bed, and it has a "problem", you would have a great excuse to buy a new TV. But then, what are the odds? Maybe something to really think about I suspect. 🙂 Safety John

Something about this line of posts drove me to go back and check Jason's video about servicing our jacks. His video clearly shows the use of two different greases: The first is the connection point between the head unit and the foot jack leg unit. It depicts the red Mystic grease used on the suspension. Further into the video it shows the Mobilith white grease for the gear box: As dmtaylor 2 reported, removal of the three set screws can be difficult. If you find this to be the case, consider getting and using an impact tool. Many old motorcycle mechanics still have and use one of these: But even just mildly impacting the case with a Hand Impact tool can cause this: So I recommend using one of these: To get all three screws out, you'll likely need to remove the jack to frame mounting bolts. And that is a PITA for the two rear jacks. But that is far better than this: GJ .

When a tank is empty likely an appliance was on. When the propane gas stops flowing, the line pressure is equalized to atmospheric. With connection of a fuller tank, and opening the valve there is a surge of flow. The OPD thinks there is a line rupture (Too high flow) and cuts off the flow. Until now, I had always thought I had to disconnect the hose from the tank to reset the OPD. Apparently not according to AI. AI says just turn off the valve. Here is more AI thoughts. (LOL that sounds weird.... AI Thoughts???): Safety feature: The OPD is designed to protect against dangerous situations like rapid gas release, which could occur if the tank valve is opened too quickly or if there is a sudden high demand for propane. How it works: When the flow rate exceeds a predetermined limit, the OPD valve within the tank automatically closes, restricting the gas flow. What to do if this happens: If your propane tank stops flowing gas due to high demand, simply turn off the tank valve for a few seconds and then slowly open it again to reset the OPD. Other potential reasons for low gas flow from a propane tank: Low tank level: As the propane level in the tank decreases, the pressure also drops, leading to reduced gas flow. Faulty regulator: A malfunctioning regulator on the tank can also limit the gas flow. Cold weather: In cold temperatures, the vaporization rate of propane can be reduced, causing lower gas pressure. Improper connection: A loose or damaged hose connection to the tank can restrict gas flow. GJ

Galileo: Smart move with the manual raise/lower crank handle. For the "jammed in full -up position"; I have retract our Barkers until they click the clutch. Then I reverse them down momentary to ensure that they are not stored under tension. To do so, we only need to lower them just a tad. Then when we want to lower the jacks, they are not jammed each time....and eventually they are not stuck. Barker uses a white Monolith grease. As such, it appears that your 2019 trailer likely had been serviced, as you mention, with red grease. Likely using John D.'s DIY post which says use CV-2. This could be a reason your disassembly was so difficult. Doing the exhaustive cleaning necessary without a commercial parts washer and a total disassembly is why I did not follow JD's suggestion to use CV-2 for the jacks. Mixing greases is bad. I figured that the extra cost of the Amazon Mobilith SHC 460 Grease was no where near the PITA and my time to convert. I suspect that after your experience, you would agree. Glad you were able to get yours fixed, and sorry for the trouble and expense it caused.

Another quality JD install for sure. I have attached the spec's (in my usual format) as a reminder for my DIY pump replacement down the road. It compares the specs and cost of your superior pump to the OEM OTT pump. Both have US distribution and service. Your version is a 6.5 amp vs OTT's 7.5 amp. It also puts out .4 gallons per minute more. My anticipation is that it would last a lot longer than the Sureflow. If I were a young owner with a failing pump I would upgrade as you did. Buy high quality, mess with it once, and expect it to last. But since many of us are still young in heart, but not so much in other ways, and unless frozen solid, these pumps tend to last far longer than us RoF's will be around, the one-for-one replacement path would get a few votes as well. JD: You have several high quality, well thought out upgrades that I look forward to seeing in person down the road. DIY - Fresh Water Pump Replacement Options.docx GJ

I would wager it is well over $20K with materials, labor and at least $1 per hour for the PITA factor that we have endured. But that said, the learning curve was so satisfying ... when the job is done of course.

You guys may find this unusual, but our Hull 342 (2018 Model Year) has had zero plumbing problems. Now heading to our 8th season I think it best that I get some interest in understanding and having some organic repair capability. Especially when off the grid. The two systems (SB Fittings) and Clamping Rings appear to be different approaches for repair of PEX. Which years use which system in our Oliver's? Pro/Cons of each? Going lightly and conservatively on spare parts is my approach. Which would suit us the best? Thanks GJ PS: Can assume all our Ollie plumbing is 1/2" pex?

That's a good idea. Can you share what you have in the kit so we can replicate it? Thanks GJ