Geronimo John

I understand your position and thoughts. But on my end, and more than a few others, we should not have to be replacing our ten year "Bullet Proof Battle Born's" now, and spending a dime is more than we had planned on doing ....until well down the road. With "only" a 60 amp PD charger, and a 300 amp fuse my hope is that our 3 BB's will continue to perform. That the Trust side. On the Verify is... the with lots of inspections and monitoring of course. GJ PS: I really like your nuclear power plant in your Ollie!

$2400 to do so, plus likely mods to the cables and fusing... OUCH............

I know you are just joking. But let's not toss that glove as someone may try it. I think our 4/0 cables and lugs would have some concerns if running them at 900 amps. Not to mention our fuses. Checked AI and "it" agrees.

I think that they have been in that zone for quite some time now. I am suprised that we have not seen more on this. Glad I don't own any Dragon Fly stock. Sad that so many of us are, or will be impacted by their design, marketing and now warranty decisions. GJ

I was sort of leaning towards the Flap Jacks for those reasons. Then I saw this video: Well, both tested exceptionally well. Basically it appears that only a nuclear inferno would damage them. That test is an order of magnitude or two more severe than even Crazy Horse could abuse them. The attributes of extreme durablity, light weight, 1/4 of the storage space, and now superior slip planes of the Flap Jacks works for us. Thanks to Ron and Chris for highlighting this amazing product. We'll be using them this season! GJ

Next picture shows yes they stack for use, but not efficienctly for storage...three of them would be a lot of space in my 5.5' F-150 bed.

Not finding anything with that name. Did you mean Jack Blocks like these? Do they stack or are they internally reinforced? Thanks. Exploring options.

"Big Lego's" you use? GJ

Once again I credit John Davies for his wisdome many years ago: For years I have mentioned the concept that having slip planes to reduce risk of damage and wear. There are many ways to minimize jack wear by reducing movement. So I compliment ScubaRx and Mike & Carol for their posts. I would like to also mention that they both have taken to heart the concept of multiple slip planes. Their use of the plastic bases under large blocks does this. Should they move their Ollie while supported, movement is assured by both short jack extension and longer distances occupied by their blocks. This setup has a three locations for the feet to become unloaded during a drive off. Between the jack foot and the wood block Between the plastic block and the wood block Between the plastic block and the ground plastic/wood pad During a drive off while jacked up without the ground slip plane, the jack foot will likely slide on the block. As it passes the edge, in softer soils the block could "dig in" and begin to rotate. As it rotates, the jack stem could come sucumb to high stress. So for these owners, please consider adding in a second 2X6 under the jack foot. Over the past 8 seasons I have just used a pile of 2X6X11 blocks. I carry a milk crate in my basket. It holds eleven of them I recall. Due to limited storage space for my mini blocks I have not benefitted from the benefit of jack wear that the big blocks bring. Time for me to upgrade my thinking and evaluate the "Big Block" options. This Ole Dog can still learn from others!

And very importantly as Hoosier brought to light, I was remiss in not adding to my list an important reason for our use not having an automatic switch over valve: We camp when it is warmer and we fully winterize when our trailer is in storage. As such, we have no need for it to burn propane to keep Ollie warm when it is lonely in unattended hard freezes happen. That said, a significant number of owners do need/want/use these auto change over devices. And that's cool. GJ

Time for a left turn on this topic. The more I ponder my propane system, and the way that I use it, I'm questioning why I want or need an auto switch over valve. Rationale: I don't ever use the auto switch over part of the device . I want to know when I have an empty tank. It is a single point of failure. It is expensive to replace Why not just buy two regulators and two 18" hoses, attach oneset to each tank, and "T" their outputs to the supply line going into Ollie? Use one tank at a time. When it goes dry, open the small hatch and shut off one tank and open the second tank's valve. 100% redundancy with less points of failure for about the same cost. Your thoughts? GJ

Drats you are correct. It appears that the American Copper and Brass have their wires mixed up. They are selling these two auto change over valves. Their left one shows 245KBTU and the one on the right is their 345KBTU model of another mfg. . Gut the Fairview Fittins and MFG web site says that the GRF9984 is a 345 KBTU model as I posted previously. The Fairview web site says that the GR9984 is rated at 345,000 BTU. Go figure????. Here is the link to the full manual: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Propane_Regulator/Fairview-GR-9984P-Propane-LP-Regulator-Manual.pdf GJ

It looks like your Ollie and those winding roads got a lot of snow and several days of hard freeze too. I hope that you will be able to get back safely after the roads get cleared and the thaw allows. Glad you reached out to optimize your rig from being damaged. We all wish you a safe return to your Ollie. GJ

JD: Your regulator may be undersized for the load. Past posts indicate that the gas regulator size likely should be in this range: · The OEM Hull 505: GR-9984XF with 345,000 BTU · Possible Smaller Replacement Part if above is not available: GR-9994XF has 262,500 BTU If you are using a high demand outside stove, grill or fire ring especially with the furnace running; then for sure go the larger regulation. Hope this helps with the moonlight harmony you are getting from your regulatior. GJ PS: The Fairview gas regulators are designed in USA and made in North America. I have purchased them from American Copper and Brass for a lot less than most posted prices on the net. Worth checking them out.

The "Where do we go from here" statement is on point. If Dragon Fly is not going to honor their warranty without fees, then the answer is: Class Action. I am starting to think that Dragonfly took the Ford approach to Phasers and not the Toyota approach to their EcoBoost head problem. GJ

Thank you Zodd! I was starting to get a headache with all the above stuff flying by me at Warp 10. I'm glad Chris, JD and Ollie are on top of this for us. I'll remain confused and happy, GJ

JD Unless I'm messing up my boat terms: The boondocking port is close to the furnace, aft starboard. The fresh water and city water are aft port side near the outside access to the basement. But you are correct in ensuring that the furnace (vs. space heaters) was being used. It circulates air in the basement and helps prevent problems with freezing. However there is a limit to how cold it will do so. Something that I'll hopefully NEVER NEVER even come close to knowing first hand. See video posted on the other cold related thread. 🙂 GJ

I have a tough decision on this beautiful blue sky day in Hawaii: Go paraglidng or go surf kayaking..... Another tough day for a RoF (Retired Ole Fart)! I’ll not encourage even more flaming arrows by posting a typical blue skies and bikinis picture, but will share my favorite Hawaii weather forecast. Here is Trumpet the Weather Dog talking about our weather in Hawaii: GJ

JD: I admit that my living in Hawaii makes me a "Weather Woosie", but the current weather lows at Clemson SC of 15, 15, and 16 degrees are three nights while he was gone each with hard freeze conditions pending. Below cut and pasted for reading enlightenment. So not being winterized while away, with hard freezed inbound, with the furnnace on low..... opening the basement up to the cabin is easy insurance with such conditions inbound. GJ

I'm in your court on this one for sure. Yes it was a less than optimal design. Ultimately everything fails if the use is pushed beyond the design limits. I think this is the case for this young couple. The fact that THEY INSEALLED the system from Alcan concerns me. If so, was Alcan advised of the end weight of their vehicle during the purchase or was it a "Send me XXX" and I'll install it transaction. More "Paul Harvey Questins"..... Crazy Horse has warned me about flaming arrows at times seeking me out.... but I can assure you that I don't intentionally try to be such a target. Here is my response to the couple left on their comments section of Youtube. GJ

Yep! I suspect many OTT owners would like a rubber backed woven vynal floor cover. Suggest you consider asking this to be a new thread under Mods. GJ

Readers should be aware that you live in AZ. And equally important you generally are in relative proximity of your Ollie should weather turn terrible. Those who have their trailers where hard freezes HAPPENl and can't always get quick response to their Ollie easily..... may want to consider your approach as not being ideal for their location. But for your situtaiton it is easy and effective. GJ

There have been a few, but they were resolved. In the case of the Overlander and the shackles, it appears that vanity got mixed up in the design with physics. On the surface, it appears that the shackle design with the "A" cutout was a weak point. Alcon's actions to change the design is proof that they thought so as well and commend them for doing so. On the other hand their welding inspector's statements were believeable. My heart goes out to those owners. But who pays is still up in the air. Not knowing the weight of their load on those shackles is not normal for someone who has built the truck. Odd actually. Also not being clear as to how and where they used the truck is not useful. Were they heavy on the springs. Were they abusing their suspension by doing "jumping jacks" with their Overlander. Both could damage the suspension but not yet break it. In time it came apart "for no apparent cause" on the highway. Were there other trucks with the same issue? Bottom line, we need the "Paul Harvy" on this story. ("The Rest Of The Story") GJ PS: I just sent Alcon $$$ for a couple of 5200 Nev-r-Lube's to go with my 2400 Dexter springs. They were $400 less than a great firm in Tulsa. And have the experience on this upgrade for sure. A no worries upgrade. .

If you have a pancake line, don't melt the base! LOL

Hoosier: Especially if you down the road you may do the bathroom cabinet hatch, cutting the existing towell fixture caulk and removing the unit for your unique situtation would be advisable. You could temp reinstall eacy week, and next spring permenantly reinstall or do the hatch DIY. Don't forget to keep the the bathroom door open. Use of mag catches has been done by many. But for now, take a cloths hanger (Don't cut it) and just bend it into a long triangle with the hook at the top. Slip the body under the dinette cushion with the coat hanger hook holding the door open. When you get pack, unhook the door and push the coat hanger under the cushion. Easy. As Max Burner's spouse was, mine is loving having the sink storage area all to herself. Happy wife, happy life. GJ