Geronimo John

Not trying to hijack the thread, but it is for sure related to the above. Three enhancements that I found to be VERY beneficial for our TV (F-150 crew cab short box FX4) are: Bilstein 5100 rear shocks E-Rated AT tires Rear air bags Despite spending the last five summers out west in the mountains, I did not really understand this until we did our 45 day Alaska trip. GJ

JUST THE BEDS. But I recommend using just a 4" topper over the stock mattreses. It would bed less expensive and less troublesome for forragng under the beds and quite comfortable as well. GJ

Ralph: I agree with your sage advice: "don't leave home without it". Not for sway control.... Ollie has near zero. But for porposing and general handling. Your quirks comment got me a LOL. For sure for sure. To a new Anderson user, my Anderson Golden Rules are: Keep the Andersrson pin, pin hole, plate and shaft clean and lubricated. When disconnecting, loosen the big nuts all the way until the square shaft threads ends are well inside the nuts. Raising the connected Ollie/TV up with your front jack will greatly improve your effort to connect the Anderson plate. Make sure to disconnect your Anderson only with the TV and Ollie in line.. ie not at an angle with each other. Failure will result in bad words when you try to reconnect later..... GJ

FOR THE TWIN BEDS; We went with 6" memory foam. 4" would be a better choice should we ever need to replace them. GJ

Friends, this is a MFG defect of high order. From the below video, it appears that the axles come to OTT assembled. 11 seconds into this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ngr0igwf20I The transverse running brake line is clearly routed to the other side in these replacement axles. So, don't waste your time trying to get Dexter to do anything. Been down that road with the EZ Flex Center Bolt Migration Issue. Instead, I recommend written reports to the NTSB and also the issue on every RV trailer forum you know of. GJ

thanks Ron. Corrected typo above in RED and GREEN. 🙂 GJ

What root causes can you think of for this problem? Change in the bedding material to one that is more dense. Softer material would crush on both sides of the frame thereby form a channel that would keep it in place. More dense could slide out. Your turn! GJ

Interesting out of the very many OE2's, the first two owners to mention this problem are both 2022 builds. Good move Ron and SNYSDUP!! I am guessing that before 2022 2020 there was somewhere around say 500 that came off the line. pre-Covid. Either we have a LOT of owners that don't crawl laps under their trailers, or something changed with the design, or installation, or both. Worth a question for sure. And I'll be inspecting mine this summer as well. GJ PS: Likely there will be a lot more of these. Question is how widespread through the fleet is the situation. Service Tickets all on this one. PSS: We need a catchy name for this syndrome. Covid Slip maybe?

Most likely as you stated. But, maybe not. When in troubleshooting mode, between Muphy's law and my spelling of "ASS-U- and Me" I try as best as I can to avoid both. 🙂 But, as you stated the odds are that it likely would have evaporated. More likely water got into the control board at the same time as on the heat exchanger. Water on the control board area would generally result in a unit failure. But then, I'm now making ASSUME's too. GJ

Steve :Sometimes a PM is a better choice for communication. Especially when as a moderator you are communicating in a somewhat threatening tone.

Somewhere in the dark hollows of my brain folds I recall that we have a lifetime warranty on our hulls. Assuming I've not inadvertently been feed some magic mushrooms on my pizza, is this the case and would it not be a warranty issue? PLEASE send OTT a service ticket on this. GJ

John W: For your system and those exactly like your system, that would be convenient. However if your trailer is stored in hard freezing conditions and often not under direct observaion on a regular basis my pea brain has tossed a red flag warning. However many, if not most of our systems are not like yours. So to that group I suggest two cautions: A. Some MFG's say don't do so. So check your documentation or call/email your MFG to verify. B. No manufacturer that I am aware of allows their Litho's to be frozen and charged/discharged. So if your winter location can deep freeze beware. Likely OTT was aware that your factory Litho package has battery heaters. So long as they operate perfectly then it may be OK. And that may be OK is totally dependent on your battery heaters working every time they are needed. Personally I would not assume that each one of them will work every time for the life of the Litho's. Murphy's Law rules. However, I would not recommend that other owners of Litho's without battery heaters assume that their comment applies to them for deep freeze storage. See Items A and B above. GJ

Along about 30 NOV we sort of hyjacked the flex panel thread into Charging Ollie With Multiple Sources of Power. Maybe a good time to seperate the threads. I hate it when I hyjack my own thread......... and then have to ask forgiveness after the fact. Drats GJ

I do just the opposite. I want to minimize our fossil fuel use and maximize the sun. My rationale is that I don't know how long to run the generaor in the morning when the charge is low. So, my guess is never the most percise answer. But I do know if I run my solar suitcase 200W system all day, taking a moment periodically to keep them pointed ahead of the sun, I have gotten all the free energy I can with my small solar system. Then at dusk I run the generator to bring up my SOC to my target level. I generally shut off the generator at about 65% SOC as I am leaving some room for the next day's sun to have a place to charge to. But if my chores or the campfire get the better of me, and I fail to do so, our Honda EU2200 will Eco Cycle back down when the PD 4060 backs off. I can hear it easily do so. Time to go turn her off for sure because I'm at 100% SOC. I try to avoid this. GJ

Can you please ID that thermistor for us? Maybe an Amazon picture. I have a service ticket with Mike and we are working the routing to get a path using your "Hot Poker" and JD's "Wire Extender" concepts. Mike and I are in Round 3 and he has the ball. I'll keep all posted soonest. With this last element we will have fully solved the Houghton's shortcomings. GJ

I see it as a huge win for all of us. Especially for keeping the great Service Team and taking some of the work load off them as the number of new Oliver sales has grown so much in the past few years. OTT Service Department fields a huge number diagnostic questions every day. They also financially support this forum at no cost to the OTT owners. Their efforts is leveraged by the OTT owner Pro's who are some of the best in the country. Combined it is hugely beneficial to both OTT and all of us. By having remotely located Service Centers, informed owners using this forum and the Mother Ship Service Experts can get to a dealership pretty well informed as to what needs to be done. This is a win for everyone!

Excellent video. I bet a whole bunch of folks would VERY much appreciate you marking up the picture with the appropriate locations to apply a very small amount of High Temp Brake Grease. A bit of grease every three or four years or so would do wonders for many brake hang-ups. GJ

Likely the sizzling was water hitting the very hot evaporator section of the ammonia unit. Once it evaporated away, the unit has a chance of working just fine. They may have lucked out and the wise to do electrical check may find all is OK. That is my hope anyway. GJ

With your propane and the 12V fuse pulled for the refer, and the 120 V circuit breaker off, you have no reason to be worried about the refer causing you any grief. So I would then use the other 12V items, such as the jacks, normally. GJ

I agree with JD with some precautions. Power and propane off the trailer and air hose the interior of the refrigerator cabinet from outside using an air nozzle, typically 30 PSI is the max. Idea is to blow off any moisture that may have spilled into the area. Use towels and dry any moisture you see. Then put a fan on the area from outside and force air to dry out all the refer parts in there. Let the fan run until you are sure it is dry. Then with one of you inside and one outside. Just turn on the DC power. Let it start up on DC power. If no smoke or wierdness let it run for a few hours to continue drying up the machine area. If no weirdness then flip it to propane and let it run for a few hours to further dry out other components. If no weirdness, then fire off the AC power. The above would be a lower risk than just "Smoke Testing It On Full 120 AC. That's how I would approach it. GJ

JD: Two reach backs: First the volt meter you suggested years ago, and shown below, has over the years served me very well as my OTT meter. Very easy to use, relatively inexpensive, and quite portable. I have purchased four of them as gifts as a result over the years. Secondly, is the wear point of the brake electrical wires at the axle entry shown below? Thanks GJ

John W: Even if they don't make it a formal topic, you'll likely have more than a few DYI owners there that would proud to walk you through their way of doing it. Very valuable seeing various solutions first hand. GJ

For sure we don't have that much time or in my case skill. But maybe Jason knows.

I think we'll need more rope. 🙂 GJ

Somebody throw me a rope, I'm way too deep in this rabbet hole!