RnA

I have the Standard floor plan so that area is the Rear Dinette. You must have the Twin. :) If so then it would be under the driver's side Bed for you. Also just above the driver's side rear tire for another reference point. - Randy

On my unit, 2018 #365, it is located under the driver's side rear dinette. Just aft of the battery box and pantry. Vertically on the bulkhead. The wires are located to the front of the trailer.

Thanks John. Just checked my 2018, #365, and it has the ground wire. 1st picture is with the looming on. 2nd with the looming pulled back. 3rd picture shows attachment to the ground block under the aft side dinette seat (foward of the battery box). I think I’ll check ground on the 120 for my hot water heater next!

Bought a new 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax SLT 4x4 today. ~$10K under MSRP. We were just too close to GVWR on the Tundra. Torque and exhaust brakes are definate bonuses too. Hope to hitch her up next weekend for a test run with the Ollie.?

Yukon, Glad to hear you tracked down those pesky gremlins. Thanks for letting us know how it worked out and what you learned. - Randy

I'm thinking the same as Maniac as a possible location for bunks. To put bunks in the side dinette location you really need about 6" more width and a new window covering would be required as the current shade/ frame sticks out too far. - Randy

Thanks for all of the pictures Bill. One difference I see on the 2019 is the larger lower fridge vent/ access. - Randy

I think if they are going bigger they will be trying to capture another segment of the market which could be families. Some possibilities: - Fixed queen bed. - Bunk beds with lower bed that converts to sofa or both bunks flipped up for wardrobe. - Euro style “tube” slide for either of the above. - Larger compressor fridge. - Option for more solar and with tilting panels. - LiFe battery option. - Efoy. - 6” wider body. - Larger fresh and holding tanks. (There’s lots of space in the bilges) - Optional AC in basement (like offered on some class Bs) or even use the attic. - More basement storage. Maybe some of this will happen but for now back to reality...

I made one with an extra 115volt male plug and a short piece 1” or so 12ga wire. Bond ground to neutral. With ground on on bottom, neutral should be the plug on the left. Terminal is sometimes silver colored while the hot side is brass colored. Make sure you get the correct one. I suggest using a voltmeter to check voltage between the pins. You should see zero voltage potential between ground and the pin you are grounding to.

There’s a 2019 Build Sheet posted on the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook page under the “Files” TAB. It has prices. - Randy

If you are staying at campgrounds and hooked up to shore power you can heat the tank water heater with "free" electric. You can also maintain the temperature in the tank with that "free" electricity. - Randy

Mine a 2018 so it may be different. Wires from detector are 2 red and 1 back. Under the aft seat of the side dinette: The 2 red are butt spliced to Blue, The black is spliced to Yellow. All this is under the looming and not readily visible. These wires run into the “rats nest” ? I suspect the yellow runs to the nearby buss bar for grounds (1/2 dozen or so yellows attached). Under the aft port side dinette seat: the blue wire is spliced to the 1-amp blade fuse holder. This is just forward if the 3 jack fuses. - Randy

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

Well that’s a data point. Not the one I was expecting but it does add a piece to the puzzle. It seems that it is either a ground/ neutral bond issue at the house breaker box (or sub box that is feeding the circuits you tested) or it is an issue in the PD Surge Protection system. Other than that I’ll have to scratch my head a bit. Intermit issues are the worst to trouble shoot. You could try unplugging everything then plug back in with the 115 adapter and see if the fault happens after about the same time. If you have a neighbor close by that you are on good terms with you could try plugging in there for a while or you may replace the items Furion sends you and see what that does... - Randy

Did you try using another house circuit through the 115volt adapter? If everything works fine with that circuit, the problem is probably the wiring in the 30 amp circuit. - Randy

Yukon, Just to be clear, I’m not recommend you use one of the bonding plugs used for certain generators. I’m pointing out that there may be a bonding problem between neutral and ground in your shore power wiring. - Randy

Yukon, I get the same error code (E9) when I use my Honda EU2200i generator. That blocks power from the generator from being used. When using the generator I use the remote switch to by-pass the surge suppressor protection as I feel power from the generator is good. The surge suppressor works fine (E0) when connected to shore power. It seems something in the power from the generator is causing the error code. I remember reading in another post about issues with ground bonds between neutral and ground for certain generators. I’m posting this info for you because you may be having a similar type issue going on with your shore power. You may also try using your 115v adapter and see if you get the same error when plugged in to another circuit.

Been a while since the last post on this thread. I installed the Xantrex LinkPro on a previous SOB trailer. I was very happy with it and bought another one for my OE2. Since the shunt install should be the same as the Trimetric I was hoping you all could provide pictures of how you did your install. Since I have the inverter, solar and 4 AGMs I will need to tie the negative (ground wires) for “Main 4 ga”, “Solar 6 ga” and “Inverter 4/0 ga” to “System” on the shunt and then run a new 4/0 or heavier gage wire between “Battery” on the shunt to negative on the battery bank. Any pictures you have of how you did this (where you located the shunt and picked up the ground wires) as well as any comments on if you would change your install if doing it again would be helpful. Thanks - Randy

A few considerations for the 12’ Clam. Pros: - very easy setup - protects against bugs - lots of anchor points. Stake down grommets on inside and anchor points outside. - the material is very water repellent. - very heavy duty zipper. - very easy to take down and put in bag. I lay the bag open on the tailgate of my Tundra. It opens the full length with a heavy duty zipper. The Clam lays in the bag and you just zip it up while tucking any material in. The bag has plenty of room to get everything back in. Cons: - the same tight mesh (see 3rd photo) that protects against bugs blocks very slight breezes. Air movement you will feel outside the Clam but not inside. - roof is not totally opaque. A portion (~70%) of the outer circumference is translucent (see 1st photo). This lets solar radiation through and coupled with the tight meshed screen will be warmer than under your awning. This could be a pro if camping in cooler weather such as Black Fly seasons in the north. - stowed length is 74”. It fits diagonally in my Tundra 5-1/2’ bed. I knew this going in to it as I plan to get a 6-1/2’ bed with my next truck. You can also carry it in a roof ski carrier of the appropriate length. - if a bug gets in there is no easy way for him to exit short of turning the Clam on one side. Mine just got a wasp in so I’ve left the door open in hopes that he will find his way out.

At factorty for pickup with Phil Andrews. Check spare tire cover washer. If not that then check bike rack if you have one. - Randy

A good thing is to check CarFax for the locations the vehicle was registered in versus dates. This may give a clue as to whether it was potentially in a flood. When looking at a vehicle for one of our daughters we came across a car that was in New Orleans in 2005 (Katrina). It has also been registered to multiple owners since 2005 and the time we were looking at it. Katrina was a well known event but there have certainly been plenty of other foods since. Not a gurantee that the vehicle wasn’t “just visiting” and got flooded but one more thing to look at for clues. - Randy

Thanks Steve. Good info on the trannies. Let us know how things go on your trip. Stay safe. - Randy

The specs I found online for the 2017 Ridgeline AWD RTL are 9986 GCVR (GCVWR) and 4445 Curb Weight. I don’t know what your trim level is so I picked RTL which should be somewhere in the middle. If the CW is using EPA approach it includes “nominal” fuel, say half tank (10 gals) and no pax. S If your E2 ends up at 4900 you are left with: 9986-4445-4900=641 lbs of stuff. If pax are only 300 pounds and filling up gas adds another 65 pounds you have 276 pounds for food, water, clothes, chairs, rv mat, lamps, cookware, bedding, electronics and what ever else you travel with. You’ll be supprised how quick it adds up. You may squeak by legally and it may be ok for the flats and short haul. Some rough numbers to consider for your situation. If you decide to go that route weigh the rigs like Steve says. Let us know what you decide and how it works out. I can understand any hesitatation with you giving up the Honda. Hondas/ Acuras have been the most reliable vehicles I and the rest of my family have had. Toyotas have been a close second so I really don’t want to give up on Tundra but for my towing situation and comfort level I’m ready to. - Randy

Consider the time of day when you take the voltage readings at the pedestal. During the heat of the day when lots of ACs are on in the park voltage can drop. If you measure any other time the voltage may be normal.

I will caveat all the info below in that it is based on my experience with around 1/2 dozen other trailers but not an Oliver. We pick up ours next month. The weight ratings still apply though. Besides the limitations you have mentioned, consider Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR) of the TV (weight of TV plus trailer). I have towed various trailers with a 5.7L Tundra rated to tow 10,100 lbs. Personally 7000 lbs is the upper limit of what I want to tow with it. (I have gone up to 9,000 lbs with my tractor on a flat bed but that was within a 50 mile radius and fairly flat roads.). Although my specific Tundra has that tow rating of 10,100 lbs, when I camp I’m limited to 8,800 lbs due to GCVWR. I am at the upper limit (measured) of 7,200 lbs for the TV loaded (passengers, full gas, camper shell, canoe, bikes, stove, generator, tool kit, jumper cables, etc., etc.). Take the 7,200 lbs away from the 16,000 lbs GCVWR and I’m left with a 8,800 lbs tow limit not the 10,100 lbs limit manufactures like to advertise and most people seem to focus on. With the Oliver at 7,000 lbs GVWR I’ll be at 14,200 lbs GCVW. In my experience not a comfortable place to be. Particularly when trying to accelerate and merge into traffic. If I have to merge going uphill it gets worse. Throw in some altitude and it gets even worse. I ran through the above math just to give you some ideas to consider. Not the same loads as you have but still some considerations. As Mike said you really need to think about stopping as well. The Tundra has pretty good brakes on it but I did smoke check the rear brakes once while towing 6,000 lbs with a lot of mountainous travel. No damage, just had to pull over and let them cool for a good long while. Besides braking another consideration is TV wheel base. All else being equal, the longer wheelbase of the TV, the less likely it will be to sway. Regarding your question on axle weights; for a TV the GVWR should always be less than the sum of the axle limits. This allows you to distribute the weight differently to each axle limit but not to exceed the GVWR. Just a note, trailers GVWR can exceed the sum of the axle ratings because some of that weight is carried on the tongue. When we pick up our Ollie next month I’ll see how the Tundra does, but I fully expect to trade up to a 2500 diesel GMC or Dodge in the near future. I’ll keep my Tundra for daily use. Hope that helps.