SeaDawg

I didn't do anything but find old posts. Thanks to the folks who posted the info. @AndrewK @Galway Girl

I looked them up. Great reviews, and a platinum InTech dealer. Local smaller company. Wish I'd known a few weeks ago, when I flew up to New England to surprise my college roommate on her birthday. Only a short drive away. Happy for the New England folks!

Maybe this thread will be of help?

That was my assumption, as I have never had an issue with water getting into the vent while washing with a bucket and soft brush. We rarely use a spray nozzle on the hose, at least not around vents. Sorry for the misunderstanding, Liana. Please keep us posted on what you find.

I do, too, as a Tesla owner, but there are difficulties there, too. Oliver family certainly doesn't have limited resources, but not the virtually unlimited resources of the Elon Musk group. I think they are treading a new carefully vetted path, to offer regional service, and sales. Nothing else changes, from what I've heard. Hohenwald is still the center of the Oliver universe. Let's give it a chance.

Thank you for letting us know. I'm not one of them, but we do have a bunch of t105 owners here.

Those hinges look to me like they are made for face frame cabinets. I'm guessing your previous trailer had wood face frame cabinets, with full overlay doors. Maybe, possible, with a wood block fastened/tabbed to the back of the opening, and material added to the door. IDK if the work is worth the price. Or if it would even reach 90 degrees, and mount the door flush, with extra material for the screws to hold. I've not used them, so can't advise. For the price, you can play with them, with removeable mounting on the added thin blocks, and see what thicknesses of added material would work. Best of luck. I'd get the soft close. The 90 degree is going to stick straight out, btw. Not a big swing up. Something to think about. In my little trailer, that would be about eye level, for short me.

Cute, @JWalmsley. Thanks! Can't wait for new years fireworks. Lol. Happy holidays to you and yours.

There have been recalls on certain defective 3 ways, but none of them , to my knowledge, were ever installed in Oliver trailers. Since I've had several, I think I would have known. @Liana, I'm surmising from your post that fridge was operating while you pressure washed the exterior. I'd certainly suggest for future folks that everything be turned off, if pressure washing is your choice. Honestly, low pressure, if necessary, would be best. There are several electrical connections that could possibly have been affected,,should high pressure through the vent had caused a separation. In all likelihood, water hit a hot spot,,and you'll be ok. BUT, before I fired up the fridge, I'd give it time to dry out anything flooded, and I'd take it to a reputable repair shop, explain circumstances, and stay with it during initial fire up. I have no idea what pressure you were running, nor how long lower elements were exposed to higher pressure than a typical rainstorm, but, better "safe than sorry." The vent slats are designed to keep rainwater out, not pressure washer. Good news is, lower unit is accessible from the outside, and parts are typically readily available for a common fridge. If the estimate for repair exceeds $800, I'd consider replacing, vs repair. The unit can be slid out into the aisle, vs outside the trailer, in my considerable experience with 3ways. I have a love/hate relationship with them. Best unit ever for boondocking (our style) with limited battery power. Less reliable and manageable at altitude, and uneven sites. We installed a dc/danfoss/secop fridge years ago,,and I love the reliability. BUT, significant electrical draw. We manage, as power misers,,with agm batteries Please let us know what you find out,,after everthing dries out, and you get it serviced. I'm very sorry for your experience.

@Peggiehttps://www.boatingmag.com/installing-gas-strut-hatch-supports/ I spent some time yesterday reviewing your photos. (It was a nice distraction while my husband was in surgery for four hours.) You already have some partitions/bulkheads that we don't have in the very early elites. You "could" attach some blocks on each side, without losing too much storage space. You have a stiffener piece of square aluminum tubing , near a possible attachment point for gas struts, and the stiffener relieves the "twist" of the lightweight plexi.. You might have to add a bit of material beyond the stiffener to attach the round end to the aluminum stiffener. Might need different, shorter screws. Most important that you weigh the door, and get an appropriate gas strut pair. Too strong, and they'll fly up. Too weak, they'll not hold position. (For example, we replaced the gas struts in our pickup bed camper a few years ago. I need both hands now to come, instead if one, as we had no way to weigh the topper. And struts are too strong.) I think you have a friend helping you with this. Get his/her opinion if they've done any cabinetry work. If not, weigh it, do the best you can, and order from Amazon with free returns, and see what you think..

It's electron magic, I guess. We don't have the same system (we're blue sky solar, 400 watts fixed, 200 watts portable, pd charger /inverter, and agm natteries) but all these systems are pretty much set up with limits and rules so that everybody follows kindergarten protocols... play well together. What we do is use genset in the morning, when most empty, and get the biggest bang for our fossil fuel buck, if boondocking. Let the solar take up the slower high end of the charge curve. I actually have asked this question a number of times, to various manufacturers. All the charging devices have limits programmed in, so, you can't "overcharge". (Though, as we all know, lifepo4 like to be charged only infrequently to 100 per cent. They're not happy with constant float charge to full capacity, opposite of lead acid. ) So, we've run with that advice. Over seven years on current agms, approaching seven on flas on the boat, and 4 or 5 on house lithium powerwalls. I may not understand it all , but we follow their charts and settings, and so far, so good.

At least better rope. 😌

There you go, gj.

You may be able to soften that caulk with a hair dryer on low. Don't use a heat gun. You could deform the fiberglass. You could also try mineral spirits (without the hair dryer, obviously. ) . Run the overhead fan on exhaust, and open the windows. Where is the caulk you are still attempting to remove? I'm assuming the stuff in your first photo is what you've already taken out with plastic razor blades,?

That's typically called a spring upswing hinge, I think. (We have super heavy duty ones supporting heavy hatches on our boat. Replacements for ours are really tough to find. ) You may or may not find something suitable on hafele or rockler, for light doors, with a "frameless" installation. Without the wood frame cabinet, you'd have to add epoxied blocks, or wood cabinet dividers (that's a pita to construct, with the curved hull) to support them. I'd also be concerned if you tried to use only one, because of the "twist" in the lightweight door. Most of those hinges have a lot if strength/force . I have to use both arms to bring down the hatches on spring hinges. Proud of you for tackling this when Oliver never did. Keep us posted!

Considering how easy they are to operate, I might be tempted to try the camco type catches, first, with command strips or two sided tape. I was trying to think of one-handed operation. Seadog marine has beautiful stainless door catches, but they are extremely pricey ($65 to $85 each) and probably too powerful for the thin plexi doors, anyway. Sugatsune makes some marine grade plastic sealed magnet catches that are pretty white, fairly strong, low profit, and coupled with a flat piece of galvanized steel (even a big washer "might" do the trick), or opposite pole magnet, on the inside of the door . At only $6 , I might be tempted to experiment with one. (Available from many cabinet shops, too. Probably amazon.) I'm still happy with my sliders in my 2008. I don't use magnets to keep them closed. I just slide them so the rubber grommets in the thumb holes match up, and friction keeps them closed. However, I do like the flipup concept, so, who knows? We might look into it "someday." Back in 2008/9, when Oliver was designing the first gen elite II trailers, we talked with Jim Oliver about liftup cabinet doors, as well as getting the fridge a bit off the floor, and a few other improvements. Neither of those suggestions made it to the design, either, as mentioned by Steve. As we can see now, it's easier to do with full overlay wood cabinets. Still looking forward to seeing the results of your project Peggie. You're a pioneer!

I was thinking about the baggage clips on some of the rental rvs we've delivered. Some are friction, others are spring loaded "catches." Seriously inexpensive, even if you go with the more durable and better quality camco catches. And, unobtrusive, in size and color. And, easy to install. In my Elite, I'd probably have to mount them on the ceiling. And, I'd use command strip or double sided tape. Those lightweight plexi doors should be easy with these. Open with a thumb, and flip the catch open with a finger. $8 for 5 of the copycats. $10 for 2 if the Camco.

Bryan's idea of magnets is definitely a possibility. Check the existing latch and see if a magnet holds. If not, a magnet could be glued to the inside of the door. Our small boat ports are heavy bronze. We hold them open with a hook and small chain. You could hold those doors with a lightweight cord, attached to the latch or the door iself with vhb tape, and a hook above. Big port on our boat is held open with a gas strut. Not exactly sure where you could attach it, (might have to epoxy in a block) but they can be purchased pretty reasonably, for light duty. I'll think about this one a bit, after dinner.

I'm rather excited about it, actually. One of their locations (if it's the dealer referenced by @Ollie-Haus a few days ago) is SEVEN and a half hours closer to me than Hohenwald, and I go past it often on the way to North Carolina, and just about anywhere else i go in the north.... And, they have stellar service reviews. (And decent hotels, and restaurants, and an interesting microbrewery nearby.) I really can't imagine Oliver going into this program without careful selection and deliberation. They have almost two decades invested in establishing themselves as the premiere molded fiberglass trailer. I, too, was very perplexed and questioned the whole concept at first, but if it expands the network of quality, trained service, it certainly has some merit. @John E Davies, everyone is absolutely entitled to their opinions. Let's see how it plays out.

It's a very slow operation indeed. Another good reason to use planks or blocks under the jacks. If you ever have a switch or motor failure (as I have over the 15 years), it's really nice to know you've shortened the throw. Even so, nice to know it's possible. I'm a 5' 4" woman, and I can still get the jack up in a breakdown. Ours is stored in plastic pocket, in a small dinette seat storage area, which newer trailers won't have. Check there, too. Unfortunately for you, everyone moves everything around. Steve's suggestion is a good one, as well. Never bothered, as we've only had to use the wrench a few times since 2008.

Wlcome from #12. I'd actually love to hear more about your Kioti. We're in the market for a subcompact or compact tractor right now, on our NC property with a lot of serious hills. We'd probably nickname ours "Leif," as we need it as much for leaf blowing as digging. I'll send you a pm. 🙂

Is propane supply off at the tanks? (As @Steph and Dud B asked) Dust on sensors isn't dangerous, but a propane leak is. Winterizing doesn't set off our co/propane alarm. Something else is going on.

Will did more testing and teardown on LiTime batteries, including the new 100 amp mini for under $300. Again, no low temp sensor, and pouch cells, but some other impressive components.

Btw, doesn't this look like an Ollie? https://todayshomeowner.com/solar/guides/flexible-solar-panel-problems/

You have a lot of (enviable) lifepo4 amp hours. The dc to dc charger makes sense, for you. You get extra benefit from the fossil fuels burned, with no added cost. For those of us who (now) tend to stay in one spot for a long time,with agm batteries, or smaller lifepo4 banks, solar makes more sense. Best investments are based on individual camping styles,and everyone is different.