Ronbrink

True that, but a pole may reach near top or above a tree canopy which has proved very beneficial on many occasions. True that, but for extended stays I don’t want to tend to a battery with limited run time and thus, find use of the cord connected to a continuous power source more to my liking. Never on a window, but an occasional ‘hickey’ on the fiberglass brings back very fond memories!

AND have a purge feature when first opening the tank valve. No more trips inside to check for gas flow at the cooktop!

Good combination, Flap Jack and Snap Pad! Do you have the same setup for the rear stabilizers? I bought the Andersen Blocks for the rear and use a Rapid Jack on edge at the front. These were my top choices upon Oliver acquisition, but this new Flap Jack has my attention due to the space saving measure! That said, the Andersen Blocks have magnets for optimum positioning and a lipped edge to prevent the stabilizer from slipping off. Both product lines are probably equal in their intended use and solid, given their varied construction.

The auto changeover (dual) regulators do have issues and many choose not to rely on them and thus, would rather resort to turning only one tank on at a time. Adding a ‘T’ would suffice for the ‘one tank on at a time’ users, but would still require a (single) regulator. Regardless and to your point, carrying a spare could ‘save the day’ (think camping trip!) in the event of a regulator failure due to wear or a malfunction. Your mention to use a 90° street elbow is golden, better fitment with less bends in the hoses!

Many have put a manual valve between the dump outlet and the sewer hose as a precaution in the event of a much dreaded black tank leak by the factory installed valve(s). I had one for a while prior to installing the Drain Master, at which point it was then unnecessary being that system has a builtin valve at its terminus. Others, like yourself, go with the electric valves for convenience and much the same reason.

How can one possibly enjoy the experience in only 10 minutes max?

@rich.dev, are those cinder blocks concrete or a lighter-weight composite you’re hauling around?

You can buy an end cap with a garden hose connection, but it is centered. As a cost savings measure and better drainage, I drilled a hole at the bottom of the one that came with the DM system and fitted it with brass adapters. I can use this smaller silicone hose to drain gray water as needed, and it serves as a ‘sight tube’ to indicate a valve (black or gray) leak; the tube has a terminal valve.

Me either!

Your Oliver may have been equipped with a macerator, but more likely an electric valve, in the past and the wires since abandoned. Whether the power is found to be direct or switched, it could seemingly be used for a light if so desired. The buckle/latch is more commonly referred to as a camlock coupler and looks exactly like the Drain Master coupler on the sewer hose system I installed on my OLEll. Drain Master also has a 12VDC Pro-Series Electronic Valve, so it is likely the previous owner kept the Drain Master setup and left you with the camlock coupler waste hose terminal and valve wiring harness. As to “another identical buckle/latch on the other side”, that’s a mystery! I can leave the sewer hose attached, but a tight fit with the bumper closed. Instead I leave a cap fitted with a smaller hose. Here are some pics of my setup:

This is a thing all Oliver owners using generators deal with, no supplied AC for anything without one!

There is a product you may want to look at to maybe get some design ideas in a spacer while trying to improve airflow. The RV A/C Silencer is primarily for noise reduction and incorporates strategic placement of foam, which also helps in better airflow.

As I recall, many complain about the exact same issue with the Dometic Penguin ll.

There have been a couple of occasions when trying to run on my smaller generator or 15A service that the inverter’s charger would also kick on and the a/c would shutdown shortly thereafter due to a power exceedance. You may try reducing the charger output or turning the inverter/charger off completely. Your EU2000 should run the TOSOT with a soft start if there are no other power demands. You could also charge the batts to 100% SOC with the EU before attempting to operate the a/c. Food for thought!

I’m one of those where sound level matters, being a light sleeper! Before installing a soft start on the DPll, I was constantly awakened with each load thud of the compressor cycling. The soft start made a huge difference regarding that issue, but the noisy fan was still an extreme annoyance. While reorganizing a storage bin recently I found these lurking in the shadows, made the hair on my neck stand up! Hard to believe I didn’t think to purge them from the Oliver a long time ago; oh well …… out of sight, out of mind.