ChrisMI

It’s nice to read through the progression from idea to final product. Do you happen to have any pictures of how they mounted the three forward panels? I have a feeling I’d be lucky to have them just install the mounts. Looks like custom work is not available anymore.

Looking at this from a different direction…a new Oliver order. The question is decking it out with all the options or buying a base model, ripping out what’s remaining, and build it from the ground up. No reason to spend money on a tv antenna when I really want the TV removed from the unit… The 15k saved during the ordering process can go a long way on FARKLE’s. The one big sunk cost is the time it takes to do it right. But in the end I’ve found the items I’ve customized the most are the ones you’ll need to pry out of my cold dead hands.

@Overland do you happen to have any links to past threads regarding your solar setup. I’m guessing 4 of the 160 watt zamp panels? I’m currently thinking six 100w panels mounted three wide. This might give me more latitude with voltage options although I’m still researching that. Another option is three 190-200w mounted sideways. I’m hoping the four factory mount points will support a custom aluminum framework that the panels can be mounted to.

It looks like the Houghton models spec out at 1370w and 1550w for the 9.5 and 13.5. The dometic 11k list out at 1382w. @Minnesota Oli was the amp draw on the low setting and did you replace a 13.5 or 11k unit?

Let’s recap…10 amp vs 16, low profile to compliment the sleek Oliver, and quiet operation. How is this (or something similar) not an option on new builds? This is a game changer for individuals running off lithium. The lower draw along with possibly increased solar capacity would make all the difference. It would also facilitate charging the house batteries with the AC on with a 2200 size generator.

It would sure be nice to have everything visually integrated into one 5 or 7 inch GX screen. I wonder if Oliver moved some of the antennas to the back (this might degrade reception) if they could stuff 600ish watts of solar on the front. The array would be 15-20 inches longer. This would be great for running back to the AC’d trailer in the heat of the day to let the kids rest.

Very helpful, thanks! If I do decide to order a new trailer I might go basic with the thought of adding victron equipment later on. What I don’t want is holes in the fiberglass left from controllers I no longer need. I wonder if the factory/service department would mount the solar brackets and pull the wires for me…

I’m in the process of bringing myself up to speed with all the different solar/controller/battery options out there. I’m wondering if any members have considered a Victron centric system that could utilize the Cerbo GX. Seems like it might make a perfect building block for a new Oliver bringing together all the different systems including tank sensors. It might be advantageous to have a solar controller with 50amp capability and a quieter running Multiplus inverter/charger. Thoughts?

IMO the Oliver needs something on the front. A custom logo or the factory one. Honestly, can’t believe that many are being ordered naked (maybe they haven’t gotten to that yet, although I see some in the distance). I also like the Oliver name and model number on the side.

The Honda is currently available in the Companion model that has a built in 30 amp plug. Both have aftermarket support for LP I'm pretty sure these are not factory supported modifications.

Great info, looks like the majority of the used units will have the pro watt system. The 2000 freedom XC is only $660 ish and seems like a good upgrade path. Looks like the factory switched over to the pro version for ‘22 builds. Not sure what commands the $500 premium for the pro version other than 80 => 100 amps charging potential. So it looks like a possible lithium upgrade path for me might be… Used trailer w/prowatt- Just upgrade the PD charger to the one mentioned above and add a few BB batteries. Used trailer w/o prowatt or if I want an all in one unit - Buy a 2k freedom xc and do some wiring along with a few BB batteries. New trailer - order the basic solar package, sell off the flooded batteries and replace with a few BB. Should be around $800 over the AGM price doing it this way.

Looks like they might have upgraded the inverter this year to the pro version of the XC. Sounds like a nice package for your new trailer!

It looks like 82AH from the pic above so 328 total AH for flooded, 440 for agm, 390 and 630 for lithium.

I’m curious what years Oliver was using the prowatt as a possible inverter upgrade? When did the freedom XC become an option? Is the outlet wiring different between the two? If not do they have an external shore power transfer switch for the prowatt? I’m not understanding how the outlet can be wired for both the prowatt and shore power through the progressive dynamics unit. Im thinking the freedom 2000 xc is the best inexpensive upgrade option. However, I’m wondering if the wiring on certain units will be a challenge.

Interesting, they offer a flooded cell option but it utilizes 4 12 volt batteries according to the option list. Could you fit four of the original batteries you received in the tray or did they switch to 4 smaller batteries?

If I was to order one tomorrow I’d strongly consider going with the flooded batteries, run them hard, and replace them with a few BB lithium units after a year or two. If the company wants to drop the flooded great, just add a cheaper lithium option to fill the gap.

With a heavy duty truck I have an almost limitless payload for everything I can stuff into it. The tank might also be handy to have a portable power washing setup for maintaining outside surfaces at home and on the go. The black tank is noticeably smaller. If the two tanks were combined into one large grey tank, the composting toilet was used, and an external water source (in the bed of the pickup) was available to top off the fresh water it could go a long time. All I would need is another external tank for urine or dump the included unit every couple of days.

The statement of day 1 might mean close to the day they were installed on the assembly line…could be a production line photo.

For those with a standard toilet do you find the fresh runs out or the black / grey fills first. Would a 100 gallon tank w/pump in the back of the truck help much? I wished the pee bucket could be replaced with plumbing to the black tank. Maybe even a valve that would allow the shower to fill part of the black err “yellow” tank?

That middle picture is exactly what I was talking about. To be clear the bezel can be replaced or the entire window needs to be swapped for it to be white inside and out?

Looking at some of the used trailers I’ve noticed some considerable yellowing on 4-5 year old units. It extends to the inside of the trailer around the windows. Are these pieces replaceable? Do they become brittle or just discolored? Mainly just units stored outside? Has the company changed the plastic in recent model years? I’m a bit surprised it’s so noticeable on a fleet so young. In other applications we wrap the plastic in leather but I’m not sure if it would trap moisture around the windows.

Following this thread. Thinking of adding a Tahoe with the diesel option in the near future. Might make a pretty decent towing rig as well. However, one thing I’ve noticed with the reviews online is the mpg falls a bunch when towing a load like from 26 to 12 vs a gas engine going from 20 to 11 ish. I would have thought the diesel would do really well pulling a load and mpg drop off would be minimal.

I’m curious how long the transmission will hold a gear? It would be nice if it would hold 2.5k rpm in third and reach close to max torque before dropping down a gear. Does the selector allow locking it to a gear or just set a limit to the highest one?

Unfortunately I’m always trying to perfect/customize everything I buy, especially hobbies/toys. Trying to avoid the F’s because I don’t like to rent…However, the force is strong and I’m well on my way down the spiral. Thought I was safe with an RV, I guess not.

Yep, the 200 amp version of this caught my eye because it was so cheap. Looks like the build and cell quality was quite good. If they have added a low temp sensor it just might work for my uses. Thanks!