ChrisMI

The link that John posted above has this Plug Adapter referenced. It basically uses one of the 120v legs to power your camper through your normal cord RV power cord. The two legs of 120 power (in your truck) are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. They cannot be combined (spliced) and I doubt many/any RV’s utilize appliances that require 240v. The 50 amp RV plug used in larger trailers just distributes each leg separately to different appliances/outlets in the trailer. Ideally generators would like the two 120v legs used evenly as far amp draw is concerned. I’m not sure if this is an issue with the ford truck outlet.

A little late for @Trainman but I’ve had very good luck with Odyssey batteries. Incredibly long life and good storage capacity for an AGM. A single pc1750 might make the perfect battery for an always connected trailer.

Probably the best idea to quickly get back on the road is buy a spare hub with a new bearing installed. With some simple tools and a torque wrench you could easily be back on the road in short order.

I don’t think we’ll see the $675 again during the sale. BB recently increased the price by $75 on the 100 amp versions. My guess is $750 during the blemished sale…

My 2002 1500 is rusting to pieces…however I still use it to bash snow piles during the winter months. I just can’t kill it and prefer to take the abuse out on it vs the 2021 one ton that replaced it. I have to say in your shoes I’d sell the 2018 and let the dodge pull the Oliver full time.

@Minnesota Oli did a nice install a while back…Link I’m probably going to go with three BB batteries or one of the 315ah lithionics units.

The pro looks nice but at almost 70k for a half ton I’m not sure the value is there (IMO). It’ll be interesting to see how it compares to the raptor. Slightly disappointed the $3.5k hybrid option is not available on the SR5, looks like it starts on the limited and up.

Interesting, with the higher cfm capability of the 13.5 it might move the same air on low as the small does on high. That would be a 7db difference which is substantial.

I’m not sure what the actual numbers are for the two units. The screenshots below are from the user manuals and probably represent worst case scenarios…

Any updates? Curious how the new Tundra behaves with an Oliver behind it.

It’ll fly on one…you just need a strong right leg for the rudder/gas pedal.

Payload aside it’s important to realize that the curb weight of a heavy duty pickup is at least 30% higher than a half ton. That weight increase comes predominantly from stronger structures (frame, axles, brakes, etc) and drivetrain. The extra strength of these components really does make a difference when towing a trailer.

You should be able to add the transfer switch very close to the 110 power distribution box, no need to run a new power wire between the hulls. I’m pretty sure you don’t need / can’t utilize the micro start on the newer AC units.

I’d strongly consider upgrading the AC unit like @Spike just did. You might be fine with the 2k inverter…

@Jps190 That looks great! I really like the ability to open the DB cover with the panel attached. Looks like 600 watts could squeeze on pretty easily…

My plan is to start with the standard battery and upgrade to 3 Battle Born batteries in the fall. Ideally BB will have their BF deal again ($670) depending on demand etc.

Do you have the prowatt inverter or the freedom xc inverter/charger? If you have the freedom unit the charger could be set low enough. Otherwise a smaller additional charger could be added. If the truck puts out 400 peak watts I’m not sure it’s worth running the truck efficiency wise.

Reading the article quickly it seems all lithium batteries would rather be stored off charger / disconnect from a load. Also they mention a mid level charge being left in the battery to protect them from extreme temperatures. Any particular reason you leave them at 100%? Recommendation from BB?

IMO the Bulldog hitch is a very good design and will handle loads far greater than design parameters if it’s shock loaded along the axis of the coupler. Meaning I feel it will be safer during a rear end collision than the normal latch coupler. The real question in my mind is does the 2 inch coupler with the strongest 2 inch ball have enough sheer strength to completely crumple the aluminum a-frame before it lets go (dissipating as much energy as possible).

For those who like to live on the ragged edge like me, with a 2 inch ball, try to purchase a ball mount and ball that utilize the 1 1/4 inch shank. That pretty much guarantees the weight rating will be 10k or more.

That is the manufacturers provided number for the trim level. On many other vehicles it seems like they are optimistic by 10-15%. Still curious to see the actual but agree it is very impressive for that size of car.

I’m not sure why I’m always so curious about payload. Same thing with useful load…if someone lists their plane for sale I could care less what color it is. I want to know what it’ll haul!

I’ve towed race trailers, cargo trailers, boat trailers, and equipment haulers. Expensive to cheap trailers I’ve never seen a 2 inch ball on a 7k trailer. Too many cheap 6k and under components for tow vehicles are in circulation along with clueless owners. Having said that I’m going to pick up my trailer with a 2 inch ball, label me a hypocrite.

@topgun2 @Mike and Carol Unfortunately we combined a couple battery types in this thread. The original topic was asking about the 6v upgraded battery option. My first post was my educated guess on which (agm) battery Oliver was using that turned out to be correct. Those are a great option and look to be a high quality battery. Half way down the thread Ralph posted a picture of his 12v wet lead acid battery (not agm) that is sealed from the factory and not serviceable. Similar to Ralph and Mike I ordered a trailer that has the wet cell option so I could upgrade to 3 BB within the year. IMO a sealed lead acid battery that does not incorporate AGM technology is the bottom of the barrel setup because it will not allow the end user to replenish the water as it boils off under hard usage (or during the equalization charge cycle).