ChrisMI

Another option to keep the COG lower in the truck is to use the hitch to provide rear support and park in the bed (assuming the sxs et al is less than 50” wide). I really like this support by hehitch, but I’m not sure if they’re still in business. Should be pretty easy to fab up…

This type of situation always bugs me. By doing the right/safe/heroic thing it ends up costing you more. Kind of reminds me of an engine catastrophic failure in flight. If you do everything perfectly and land without putting a scratch on the plane you’ll probably have to cough up at least 50k to rebuild the engine. However, if you forget to put the gear down or similar the insurance company won’t complain about a 100k repair. I would not close the claim until they agreed to pay the difference between a clean trade and the fire salvage title. I would also exercise that option ASAP on a new tow vehicle.

I’ve looked into this a little bit. I’m not sure if some states like Michigan require a 5th wheel behind the truck to pull doubles. The Oliver wouldn’t make a very good trailer for this IMO. Too hard and expensive to make the modifications to support the weight. If you have a heavy duty pickup the Marlon rack might be an option…

Feeling like a jerk for going off topic (on such a well formatted thread) sorry about that @Geronimo John. Good chance I’ll need the data from this thread if Oliver needs extra time to fully sort out the system. I’m hopeful we’ll find out that 9.5k will be enough to keep a tandem cool.

Here is another view… Edit: one advantage of this unit for the Oliver is it can be hardwired in with a Truma CP plus. I really hope they’ll push this through quickly!

Sorry nothing to report from experience. However, I think Oliver is testing my new AC unit to be delivered this spring!?? (I have no idea what version it is but it’s on the FB page).

I don’t have any pictures yet due to waiting patiently until delivery next spring. However, consider using acrylic mounting options for displaying the artwork. I’ve used Bumblejax before with great results. Now if Oliver has an extra loaner avail this winter I’ll load you up with some great images.

The video I linked did say the computer was exactly the same as the calculated which was refreshing. I can burn 85 gallons of LL and my totalizer is less than a 1/4 gallon off, no reason why cars can’t be more accurate.

Here is another Tundra YouTube MPG report. Long distance which IMO is a lot more representative than the short loops everyone likes to use these days. Looks like a good amount of wind but flat, unloaded, and relatively slow speeds (70 ish). I personally think @topgun2will be very close with his mileage estimates and how close they’ll be to the Ford engine. He did report a 1400 lb payload which seems to be the norm on a crewmax. …Had to laugh at his concern over the weather, it was like he was heading straight into a cat 5 hurricane.

I agree on letting Oliver install it for you unless you can snag a cheap used one.

I really like the countertop color. Really bummed it was optioned out, definitely not a custom order trailer anymore. Do you think the table could be cut down to make the countertop extension? Your lagun table looks amazing. I’m wondering if Foy could make a new dining and lagun table that match but still has the functionality of the one you purchased?

Considerably harder than I thought finding a load E or similar tire in a smaller size…

I have ideas and I’m great at spending other people’s money but my elite II is not being delivered until spring. My practical experience is lacking but I’ve read some of the install reports and a common theme is short running cycles. My thought is the unit should be sized so it runs almost continuously on the hottest days but has enough reserve capacity to quickly bring the temp down. To be honest I’m thinking about taking apart the new unit and remote mounting the temperature sensor if possible. That might take care of the short cycle behavior. Looking at total power draw the short cycling might be advantageous, not sure.

I’ve given this some more thought. If I were in your shoes I’d customize an elite I to fit your current garage opening. I’d go without any antennas, pass on the solar, and have the AC removed and replace with an insulated cover/panel. Next step would be to purchase some lower profile tires to bring the height down to fit. I’m not sure how much clearance is needed for the brakes. If possible drop down to a 15 inch wheel. Because you will be keeping the unit warm I’d load up on quality lithium batteries, enough to easily last you three days.

Is the max engine option only available on the TRD pro? A couple online reviews, one being a SR5 and a limited, show a low 1400 lb payload. A little more would be nice…

Any pictures of the cabinets? I would think those would have finished smooth edges in them.

From casually reading I think you can just use the heat portion of the current thermostat. I’ll be looking to do the same thing in 6 months or so. Current thinking is trying out the 9.5k unit and see how it will cool an elite II.

I agree with the above statement about the difficulty/expense of modifying your current garage. However, since you want a spot that is heated and has water/drain access I’d suggest removing the AC unit and replacing with a vent cover. Keep all the parts so it can easily be converted back. What about suing a steel beam, would that gain any height?

@Boudicca908 The first step of your search should be deciding on a half ton (1500, tundra) or a 3/4 ton (250/2500). The weight difference between a diesel 3/4 and a half ton is probably more than the difference between a half ton and a Miata. They drive/ride differently and with the larger your neighbors will come over and ask where’s the 30ft horse trailer to go with it.

That’s exactly how I want my countertops. Solid surface in the bathroom and around the sink and Foy’s product the rest of the way. Curious if the factory did that for you or you literally tossed the Oliver provided units in the trash and replaced them yourself.

Was literally typing an explanation of how surge brakes work but John did a better job than I would have. I’ll have to look up the trailer valet…looking for ideas to weld onto my aircraft tow to move trailers around.

While I think the lithium package is really nice I don’t see how the 3k inverter is required for a lithium battery upgrade down the road. I hope this misinformation, along with $25k service department lithium upgrade estimates, are not being used to up sell right now. The response by @Minnesota Oli is really helpful in two ways. My guess is using an external transfer switch will keep rewiring to a minimum. Also his AC upgrade would provide another huge benefit to your 2k inverter because of the low power draw. It might be a better investment vs upgrading to the 3k inverter w/ longer battery endurance as well.

They bumped the price to 700, still a good deal imo. If anyone needs a Honda companion generator Northern Tool has them in stock. Current “deal” is a $200 gift card to use at their store.

Wow, that’s a really good deal!

It makes a huge difference especially on heavy trailers. I also find many people adjust the trailer brake bias too high to make up for weak TV brakes.