Dave and Kimberly

So… first thanks to each of you that responded! The CO/LP detector fuse is easy to find and get to (under street side bed)… IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK! I put a tag on it similar to what Galway girl did (Good idea!) I added another 1 amp fuse to my box of emergency fuses and also realized I only had one 30 amp slow blow inline fuse (for the three electric jacks)…. So ordered some more. The new detector looks good and the fun thing is it adds to my collection of little lights that reflect all around inside the camper when I find myself wide awake in the middle of the night. I like to think of them as “stars”.

Thank you! I did find exactly that 1 amp (black blade type) fuse. Mine isn’t marked or anything obvious like yours but I will find a replacement 1 amp fuse for it. If that’s it, I’ve found it, but didn’t know it! Patriot pointed me in that General direction too… I’ll report back anything I discover.

I couldn't exactly trace the very specific detector wire... but I did check the wires going into the back of the 12 volt panel... and also checked each ground wire on the bus bar to ensure they were all good and tight. I'm a little bit out of my "lane" doing electrical work... so I called an electrical inclined neighbor to confirm my steps and he was stumped as well. Side bar: It's good to hear from you Bill... you are still looking good! 🙂

It's been a while since I've had to ask for some help... but here we go tonight! Prior to putting our Oliver away for the winter... the CO/LP detector seemed to be getting more and more "hyper sensitive" to the point where it finally just wouldn't go off. I reached under the front dinette seat and had to cut the positive wire to stop it. Plan was to simply replace it with a new one. I get the new one and now I find that the wires going to the detector (the ones I cut) do not have voltage. I had a friend confirm my findings and we checked every 12 volt fuse and everything was fine (there is no fuse specifically marked for the detector). Everything else, 12 volt in camper seems to be working fine... including the little USB plugs and all the lights. Anyone have any experience with changing out the CO/LP detector? Clues or ideas? I did try to jump start the the new detector just to confirm that it works but was unsuccessful in that. It seems highly unlikely that the brand new detector is "bad".... especially considering the OEM installed wires going to the old detector appear to be dead.

See now I must just be different? I like all the little lights inside at night... the way they reflect in multiple places, bouncing from curve to curve around the interior. I think of them as my Ollies star-lights! 🙂 That said... I really appreciate the nice neat daisy chained ground wires! Good job!

Nice cherry table! Wood working is one of my favorite things and I made several mods in our camper including the expanded table top, some drawer organizers and such. Most recently, in order to satisfy my need for organization I installed an organizer in the back of our truck to stow the camping gear in a way that reflects the order and sequence as I pull it out of the truck bed.

My understanding in 2022 (when we picked up ours) that the Lithionics batteries are only sold to OEM places like Oliver. I was told that you can buy them thru Oliver. If that isn't the case anymore someone can chime in and correct me. Just from reading the Forum I know folks have bought the Xantrex inverters directly from Xantrex.

I have nine (count em!) sets of keys that are necessary to lock/un lock everything! When I get them all together on key ring I look like a high-school janitor! The only ones I actually carry are the truck and the Oliver basement/battery box key. The good thing that happened going thru my key sets is that it made me record the key number for each... you know... in case I lose both sets 🙂 ~Oliver RV Lock (the manual key) ~Basement/Battery door ~Proven Industries tongue lock ~Hitch Pin Lock ~Hitch ball lock ~Bike rack pin lock ~Bike cable lock ~Truck cap lock ~and of course ... the truck lock. 😛

So , at least in my case and several others... they are taking care of the Truma recall repair at the rally. Jason has just called to confirm they have the parts set aside and that they will be taking care of it there. That is just great service from Oliver in my opinion! Can't wait to see everyone there!!

I contacted Oliver about 7~8 weeks ago and spoke with Jason (the new one) and we tentatively planned to do my recall repair at the rally. The biggest hold-up was simply getting the replacement parts from Truma. He asked me to call back a time or two in March to get updates on A) the parts status and B) whether Oliver was going to have a "Rally" repair team to do these repairs. Coincidently just today was the second time I've called them back and neither time have they responded one way or the other. I'm still hoping they can do it at the rally. Jason said the whole process was only 30~45 minutes at most. Ours is and always has worked fine with no indication of a problem... but with some extra caution and awareness I plan to use it until the parts are replaced. As I understand it the burner bracket "may come loose"... in certain situations.

Thanks for the quick response and information! Yes... we are going to be at the rally this year (site E-03) and only the second time we've been able to make it since we were there in 2022 right after buying our Oliver. We are almost as excited to get this new truck as we were to get the Oliver! We won't have it at the rally though... delivery isn't until late May... but trying to line up all our truck bling so that we can have it all ready! Also getting a Smartcap Adventure to keep our gear a bit more protected back there. Lets be sure to hook up because I have lots of questions... and you can tell me all about your Alcan springs also! (I have to say this carefully so as not to get another 20+pages started on the subject 🤣) We CAN NOT WAIT to see everyone at the rally again!!

Patriot- I did a search and your post was exactly what I was looking for! I'm upgrading my truck to an F-250 Super duty Lariat 6.7L Diesel...and I was considering exactly the hitch you bought. Because I don't have the truck yet... I can't measure it up to determine which "drop" to get and ensure our Ollie rides nice and flat. Did you need the 10" drop to make that happen... or do you just have multiple trailers that require it? I see that the hitch comes in several drops... 6", 8" and 10" drops also.

WELCOME Jason! We look forward to working with you and good luck in your new position!

Its one part of whats called a 3 WAY switch. Just like in your house where you can turn a light on/off from opposite sides of the room... this allows you to turn the water pump on from either the wall above dinette OR from the bathroom.

I'm thinking that my next truck will be an F-250 super duty diesel. I understand all the benefits (pay load, braking, handling and elimination of the WDS) There is a significant cost up ($10K) for the diesel engine alone. Ive read enough folks opinions on the diesel engine and I'm convinced that it is better for towing. My current F-150 just never gets any more than 13mpg... and thats generally a good day! A question to the many of you folks that have made the leap to diesel; what kind of milage are you getting while towing your Ollie?