Overland

If the standard torque for those bolts is 80, then that’s exactly what Oliver should recommend. The bolts aren’t under any tension other than what you’ve applied so it can’t be the application. And the bolt has obviously been twisted in two, not sheared You either got a bad bolt or you over torqued it. If it were me, I’d get your torque wrench calibrated to eliminate the latter possibility.

For simple stripes, I was very close to doing this before switching to our mountain snowflake on the side. I think it's much more elegant than what we ended up with, though obviously I like what we have, too - And before we had the snowball scheme, I liked this (which ironically later became Oliver's official color scheme). But my wife thought it was too boring for us - And being a Star Trek fan, I also threatened her with this, but apart from being over the top, in the end I thought it looked too much like the Scamp stripe anyway -

Nah, Mike - the solution is obviously to add more graphics...

For the most part, you just peel them off and then clean up any remaining adhesive - a hair dryer or a hot day will help. Sign companies use power washers to peel them off. The older they are, the more difficult they are to remove.

LOL, apparently, the RV industry thinks that “snowballs” are the, uh, polar opposite of the standard ugly RV - (pardon the f-bombs in the article - if you’re sensitive to such things then don’t click.) https://jezebel.com/jezebel-investigates-why-are-rvs-so-fucking-hideous-1836824623 Frankly, I’d love for Oliver to trash their “swoop”. It the least attractive, and least creative thing about the trailer. I’ve actually considered removing the custom graphics from ours. I kind of miss our pure white snowball. But to answer the author’s question, the reason most RVs are so ugly isn’t because of the graphics. They’re ugly because without those graphics it’s obvious exactly what they are - cheaply built tin boxes on wheels. Olivers (and Airstrams, Scamps, Escapes, Casitas, etc.) can be snowballs and still be beautiful, because their beauty is more than skin deep.

I'm happy to do it for you. For anyone who wants to check their own account, here is the section of your profile to view and change your subscriptions - just hover your mouse over the 'x' and it will say 'unsubscribe'. Click and you're done.

I'll have one pitchfork of beef, please.

Hehe. You realize that's an invitation to many of us, lol. But honestly, I did not find the road challenging, even in its worst state just prior to resurfacing. Slow and bumpy, not for the unadventurous, and mainly no turn arounds if you do get into trouble, but otherwise didn't require any advanced skillset to navigate. The camp host at Apgar and the woman at the visitors center there both recommended Bowman to us. In general, however, I would not take an Oliver down a bumpy road without being prepared to make electrical or plumbing repairs. From the factory, I don't think that those systems are durable enough to withstand heavy hits or prolonged vibration.

Landrover, I just took a look at your profile and it looks like you are subscribed to the entire "Welcome To The Oliver Travel Trailers" forum. This may be intentional, or as I said earlier, could easily have been a slip of the thumb while scrolling through the forum on a phone. That's an easy forum to get subscribed to and not realize it, since it gets relatively little traffic and you could go for some time before receiving any notifications. We did in fact have quite a few spam posts in that forum yesterday, and so you would have received a separate email for each post. You can follow the instructions above to delete that subscription, or if you'd like, one of the moderators can do that for you. If you'd like to keep the subscription, just understand that if more spam gets posted to that forum, you will get another email.

As Jason said, the 404 errors are a separate issue that both Oliver and their web hosts are working to correct. The Russian and other stuff was more spam that got posted prior to fixing the captcha feature. Also it is likely that there are still unused accounts that were created by the spam bots that can only be identified when they post spam, or by manually going through every account and looking for suspicious email addresses. The latter isn't going to happen, so expect some residual spam posts that hopefully will peter out over the next few days.

So to summarize the above posts and relay additional info from Jason at Oliver: 1. The forum suffered a fairly intense spam attack yesterday which occasionally overwhelmed the moderators' ability to get the posts deleted in a timely enough manner. 2. This was due to the CAPTCHA feature on the account registration page getting disabled in the latest forum update. The CAPTCHA is the little box you click to say that you aren't a robot and is what prevents spam bots from signing up multiple accounts quickly. 3. The CAPTCHA issue has now been fixed and we should be back to normal. 4. The emails that are posted above are unrelated to the spam attack, and are automated emails that the forum sends to users who have subscribed to topics (either intentionally or not). They are NOT due to the forum or anyone's account being hacked. If you get an unwanted email like the one posted above, the solution is to go to the very first post of the topic in question and click the text at the top right of the post that says "Unsubscribe". If you are receiving mulitple emails, it is possible that you have inadvertently subscribed to the entire subforum. In that case, go to the subforum in question and again, you should see the text "Unsubscribe" at the top right of the page. Alternatively, you can go to your user profile page and click on the Forums button. Then you will see a button for Subscriptions where you can see and delete any subscription from there. If for any reason this doesn't work, please PM a moderator and we'll see if we can help. 5. While people aren't intentionally subscribing to spam topics (one assumes), it's easy to accidentally click the subscribe button, particularly on a phone, which can sometimes interpret a swipe or scroll gesture as a click. I've asked Jason if it's possible to add a verification popup or page to the subscribe buttons, but I have no idea if that's possible with the forum software. Regardless, if you do start receiving emails like those above, just follow the instructions to unsubscribe and you'll stop receiving them.

You might try this one - https://www.geomac.gov/viewer/viewer.shtml

I'd say definitely save it/them if you get another. That might help Jason figure out what's going on. This is the first that we've heard anything like this, so certainly the more info we have, the better.

I think the answer is "It should be, and we think it is", but your post is troubling. I'll let Jason at Oliver know about this immediately. We've had a good bit of difficulty with spammers today, but nothing that would indicate that they're doing anything but signing up multiple accounts and posting spam. My initial question would be if you have ever posted your email in a post for any reason. The spammers are definitely capable of scanning posts for anything that looks like an email address.

Yeah, the outdoor shower is almost as vulnerable as the tap connections, though they're at least covered by the basement door and don't have metal exposed to the outside. You could also stuff some batt insulation into the shower box pretty easily.

No, they definitely aren't. But sometimes the spammers work as hard at posting as the moderators do at deleting. This afternoon has been particularly difficult, so we appreciate your patience as we deal with it. If you do see any spam on the boards, please click the report button so that the moderators are notified. We have several moderators and admins, but there are still gaps when none of us are on line, and so sometimes a dedicated spammer can get several posts in before we notice and can delete the account and posts. Reported posts get emailed to us, so if the posts are reported by members, one of us is likely to see it and quickly get the posts removed. Of course, we like to think that we get most of the spam taken down before anyone notices.

I don't know the answer to that for sure, but what will tend to freeze are the few inches of water line right at the outside connections, which probably wouldn't be helped by heating the basement area. You could possibly carry a compressor or compressed air to try to clear the water after filling your tank, which I've tried, but my experience has been that just enough water stays in those lines to trickle back down to the connections and freeze them up. Of course, there's less water to thaw in that case, but it's still a pain, since accessing the space behind those connections requires removing the basement floor. You could try wrapping a towel or some insulation around the connections at night - seems like something that the RV world would have a product for. One of my long term projects will be to move the check valves further up the lines, into a more easily heated space. That would mean more water dribbling back out when I fill the tanks, but in cold weather, I could just let the water drain out before replacing the caps and all should be well. I'd also like to move those lines out of the rear corner - it seems like they would be better if they went the other direction and then cut across the trailer just behind the grey tank. That, and cut an access hatch in the bottom of the closet so that I could get to the water lines headed to the bath, to possibly get some heat in there if they freeze or if access is good enough, maybe add some insulation or even some heat tape to those lines. I suppose some heat tape at the rear connections would be a thing to do as well.

And now there are precisely twice as many Ollies on the road as when I received mine. How did the mattresses work out for you?

I agree on the cost. Fortunately I had them from our tent camping days and so I'm glad they're getting a second life with the Ollie. I think that the smaller version would probably be fine, but of course with the fat ones, there's no fear of bending them.

Unfortunately I can't take a photo now, because my bathroom is all apart. I'm redoing it with a new sink and also separating out the shower from the sink faucet. Big project and I just haven't had any time this summer to finish it. Like all my projects, I'll realize about two weeks before a trip that I have to get it done pronto. But, yes, the handheld part slid into the existing faucet just like the original. It looked a bit ungainly and the finishes didn't match (brushed vs polished), but it worked.

The domestic AC definitely does some weird stopping and starting just on its own. It doesn’t need any outside influence to act weird. Mine completely stops when going from AC to fan, for example, or when going from high fan to low. So it will cut off, skip a beat, then power back up with the higher/lower speed. As a result, we never use the auto fan speed - just too annoying. But to clarify what I was suggesting, I don’t think that the Easy Start would prevent the AC from shutting down if it detected a low voltage. Just that if the AC was trying to start up during low voltage that the Easy Start should save the strain that might damage a start capacitor - either its own or the one it replaces. It may even have a protection circuit that would abort a startup if the voltage is too low - don’t know for sure but it seems logical that it would. Love that his topic has a keyword tag of ‘fish’, lol.

That’s something about the Fiamma awning that I envy. The clamps on the legs of the Carefree don’t clamp tightly enough to use a strap - unless you set the legs at their shortest position, they’ll just collapse if you tighten them with a strap or anything. Hence the separate poles. I don’t think I’d need them with the Fiamma, though I guess it would relieve strain on the leg joints.

So it may not apply to your situation then, but I believe that on the models with the newer Dometic thermostats and A/C units, the furnace wire actually goes to a control board in the A/C unit and then another wire (usually a data cable, but that depends on the model) goes from the A/C to the thermostat.

I think one or two people have installed marine bilge heaters, like these. There are two problem areas where water lines tend to freeze - front curb side and rear street side. Mainly, it's the toilet and bath sink that gets affected, though if the lines in the rear freeze, then it can prevent you from refilling your tank. The lines in the rear also have connections and check valves that can be damaged in a freeze.

That looks suspicious, but from what little I know of Dometic thermostat wiring, it isn't intuitive and it varies among different models and combinations of thermostats and A/C units. Also, photos of Oliver electrical connections make me angry.