Overland

Our furnace has ducts coming off two sides, so be sure to check them both. Having one off would probably reduce the pressure to the other to zero.

5,000 feet would eliminate most everywhere I'd want to camp. I'm not even sure that I'd call that "high altitude". Like Andrew, we've never had any problems - but then we have the Suburban furnace. Just curious, whose service told you that, Oliver's or Atwood's?

Do you have the Progressive Industries surge protector? That's the only thing I can think of that would reset itself. What sort of circuit are you plugged into at your house? Is it a 30 amp circuit or a standard 20 amp one (regular plug)? If I had to guess, your AC is pulling more power than your house circuit can handle, and the surge protector is seeing a voltage drop and shutting off.

The error code just means that the unit lost power. What circuit breaker are you talking about that resets itself?

Press both the up and down buttons at the same time.

Some owners have had good luck with Ambient Weather products. They make a confusing array of products, but at $43, the WS-0265 seems reasonable. It comes with one remote sensor that your could place in the freezer and you can connect up to seven more sensors.

Did you get it fixed the first time? What did you find was the problem?

If you find some good camping spots around Flagstaff, please share them. I'd love to know of a few nice boondocking spots.

You can always ask service if they'd be willing to do it after delivery, but I suspect that right now it's something that you'd have to do yourself.

I've had a couple of conversations with Oliver about that. For a while they were considering using a compressor fridge in the Elite I, since they're smaller and easier to get through the door, but in the end they found another unit that would work. My guess is that at the moment, they're worried that the battery capacity isn't enough. I definitely think that supplemental solar is needed.

I'd check your faucets and toilet for calcium buildup. While the plastic bits are certainly an issue, I think calcium deposits are more of a problem than we think. I suspect that hard campsite water combined with periods of disuse leads to water evaporating in the pipes, leaving a hard scale that will build up and then pop loose from vibrations, clogging the fixtures. I haven't had a clog yet, but I did take a look in some pipe that I replaced for other reasons, and sure enough, it was coated with tiny flakes of calcium.

Congratulations Jaque - I’m sure that 20% will disappear in no time.

Very nicely done. I can’t wait to see the finished product. I’m jealous of your drill press/router. That looks like quite a machine.

I guess I peed in JDs gas tank. The new ecoboost engines have dual injection so no carbon buildup. They take regular gas and oil and no fuel additives, though I've never known a turbo engine to require any.

The fuel economy should be worse than the diesel, but probably not too bad. I think for the travel trailer crowd, the main benefit of this engine is that you'll get a respectable tower without having to pay the upfront cost for the diesel, which really made payback on those impossible for all but full timers. Of course, Ford already has that engine, or arguably a better one, in the 3.5 ecoboost, but Ford has had a hard enough time marketing a small displacement engine to half ton buyers. Plus my guess is that the fuel economy won't be that much different when towing, maybe even better for the V8 in some conditions. And it should be crazy reliable, since it was really developed for medium duty trucks.

Mike, my trailer has the courtesy lights on a 3-way with the second switch on the rear panel - or actually on a separate smaller panel along with the water pump and heater switches. So that must have changed at some point between our trailers. T-Oliver, it always helps to give the hull number and year of your trailer when asking for help since things do change from year to year, especially wiring. But if I remember correctly, your trailer happened to come off the line next to mine, so the wiring is probably similar. So I think that Mike's troubleshooting is the way to go, but you'll want to check both panels. Actually, my guess would be that one of the positive jumper wires has come loose from the connector rather than the connector itself being loose. That would account for two circuits showing the same symptoms, assuming that on one of the panels, those two are the last to get power. I think that if a connector were loose that it wouldn't effect the power leading to the next circuit since the jumper would still be connected. Either way, one would think that the problem would be found in a shared wire, either positive or ground. It might be worth checking the ground busses for a loose wire there - there's one in the attic (have to remove the panel on the street side) and one down in the hull near the converter. But definitely check the switch panels first.

I have to agree with Steve on not using the front jack points. If you were to lift with those, and the front jack also lifted, then the trailer could easily twist off the jack even if the other wheels chocked. While it's always possible that Oliver didn't think it through when they marked the forward points, my suspicion is that those are valid, but only to be used when the trailer is to be lifted with a 4-point lift in a garage or placed on jack stands. Perhaps Oliver makes that distinction in the newer manuals? Seems like they should. I'd think that a better label for those front points would be "Secondary Lift Point" or something similar.

I think Bright Star belongs to @doug14

Hmm. Sherry, I'm certain that you're risking the wrath of whomever the Poseidon of the highway is*. Sounds like we need to have a naming ceremony at the next rally. * Hermes, apparently.

I took a look at mine just now, and it has caulking, but only down in the groove of the window. You can't see it without climbing on the bumper to look. I wonder if the caulk is something that Oliver applies or if the windows come from the factory like that. It seems odd that Oliver would add caulk, since it isn't where the window meets the hull. Bill, it might be the photo, but it looks like the caulk around your window frame is beginning to separate.

Another owner recommended this holder for the plug and I can second the recommendation. It's sturdy, holds the plug securely and seems to do a great job of keeping it dry. Especially if you combine it with a jack cover like this, you shouldn't have any problems.

You probably have the fan set to high or low instead of auto. The fan speed controls the fan in the AC unit, so you have to keep it set on auto with the furnace so that the AC fan doesn't come on. It's just a goofy quirk of Dometic thermostats.

It’s the first I’ve heard of that. My first thought is that it really sucks, but I guess most of the alternative systems that you might buy aren’t upgradable anyway, so maybe it doesn’t matter much? Do WiFi Ranger or Wilson issue software updates?

It’s been talked about before, but it’s good to have it brought up again for people who haven’t experienced it. It is odd to go out and see your trailer lights mysteriously glowing. If it’s any consolation, Airstream owners consider this a ‘feature’ and they’ll even purposefully short out the plug to keep their exterior lights on.

Yeah, something isn't right there. Other unibody SUVs have higher tongue weight limits and you'd think that with tow hooks on the back, that the rear end would have to be pretty beefy anyway. The limit can't be the suspension since it has a 2000lb cargo capacity. It's got to be something with their hitch, assuming the number's not a mistake.