Overland

I really like our Truma, but I have to admit that it's by far been the most troublesome component on the trailer.

Kathi, if you look on Oliver University (the last menu item under Travel Trailers on the website) you’ll find several downloadable PDFs for various dimensions for your trailer. Here's a direct link to the main measurement index.

Yikes. That’s a disaster waiting to happen. I’m glad both of you caught it. Does anyone know the torque spec for those bolts?

What’s telling, apart from the different font, is that flyer is dated 2015. My manual and the one on Ollie U are both dated 2016, so you have to assume that those supersede that flyer. At some point someone thought that instruction needed to be added but the info either never made the rounds at Truma or they decided in the end not to add it It’s a weird situation. Some clarification from Truma is needed. Regardless, I don’t know what real chance you have but at least you have a good argument to get the unit replaced under warranty. All that aside, it’s not a big deal to leave the filter out so regardless of the manual discrepancy that’s what we should all do just to be safe. I hate that you’ve run into this issue but I’m glad that you’ve made us all aware. I really like having all the manuals online, but personally I don’t think that’s a substitute for having a physical one. I’m sure it’s a pain for Oliver to keep track of all the manuals during construction but I also hate to think that they’re all being tossed in the trash. I got manuals for most but not all of my components, and also a few manuals for things that aren’t on my trailer. I definitely didn’t get that separate winterization flyer from Truma.

Hold on - I just looked at the manual and mine doesn't say anything about leaving the filter out. Nor do I see it in the manual that's on Oliver University. It looks like it's only on the winterization flyer that's on Ollie U., and the instruction there was even obviously added later in a different font. (Not that I received that flyer with my trailer.) Seems like you might have an argument to make there.

If we're not using the trailer, and it hasn't been fully winterized, I'll at least drain the water heater if it's going to dip below zero, even if it's only a bit below. I won't do all the valve swapping, but I'll drain the unit. If we're using it, then the unit has an eco mode that is supposed to keep it from freezing.

I've been putting the filter back in also. I'd read the manual but didn't catch either where it said to leave it out. No damage, so maybe I've just been lucky. One thing I noticed after a short overnight freeze is that even though I thought I'd let the unit drain for a while, there was still a good bit of water in the filter area when I opened it up again the next morning. In fact, the next morning the filter was encased in a block of ice. After that, I discovered that there's a secret stash of water in the unit that will only come out if you open the relief valve while draining it. Now that I've been doing that I haven't noticed any water in the filter area the next day. I wouldn't be surprised if that isn't the real culprit, since I can't see Truma's tolerances being so tight that just having the filter in there would cause something to break. I mean, it's just a mesh basket after all.

On the bed, it shouldn't be a problem, but you'd have to get a custom mattress made to accommodate both curves in the corners. Southern Mattress could probably make one for you and since they know the corner radius already, you'd just have to give them the width and length. Then you could use the space between the mattress and kitchen/pantry for whatever you like, whether it be a seat or storage. I doubt if Oliver would make anything special for that space so you might be on your own there. You might be able to talk them into something like this , or for cabinet storage you might think about getting the twin bed model with the twin bed riser option, then just build out the support for the mattress between. You might be able to talk Oliver into modifying that for you with different doors and no lip so that it could easier accommodate a twin mattress. My windows slide easily, but I think there was a thread here about some being difficult. You'd have to search for it, but I believe the problem was a bit of rubber trim that wasn't installed correctly. Some people do install flexible gutter strips over their windows and it seems to help. We ordered dual awnings and I just roll them both out about a foot and they do the same job. We routinely leave the windows open in rain and it's never gotten in. And the awnings are pretty much storm proof in that position. I'd say that overall, initial quality on the Ollies is surely above average for the industry, but I don't know enough about airstream to compare directly. Certainly for long term quality, I think Oliver is far ahead of their competition. If you're looking back at old posts for quality issues, keep in mind that Oliver seemed to hit a bit of a bump around the 200 numbered models when they added a second line and perhaps tried to grow a bit too quickly. That would have been about two years ago. IMO, they responded well to that and since then, I'd say that we don't really see a lot of quality related threads - sure they pop up but nothing that to me would set off a red flag or anything. And Oliver truly is fantastic about getting things fixed if anything does break.

My bracket is 5 3/16" deep by 8 ¼" wide. About the other table styles, yes, I looked at the marine pedestal tables, but I thought that the Lagun was more versatile and easier to remove. And as it turns out, we don't ever take it down - we have good access to the beds with the table folded, and since my wife sleeps facing the wrong direction she uses it as her nightstand.

I'll see if I can't get out there today and measure the width and depth for you, which is really all anyone would need. The width isn't so important, provided you have enough to bolt through without getting into the corner brackets. I think that the table comes with a template for drilling the holes - if not, you can use the table mount itself as a template. The depth also will have some variability since I'm sure not every bed overhang gets riveted in exactly the same spot. However, there's also come play in the end brackets since they can slide out if needed. It's only a question of everything looking flush. The base of the bed isn't 100% perpendicular anyway (very little on the tailer is), so you'll have a bit of a gap at the top. I honestly don't remember if I tried to account for that or not. The angle is slight and you'd have to crawl on the floor to see it, but there are definitely owners here (including me), who'd stress over that, lol. I know it looks kind of complicated, but really it's only four cuts on a miter saw and two holes.

That's a great video, and Pete makes pretty good a spokesperson. I think he should have demanded a few speaking lines for Bosker though. I love the new graphic on the Wonder Egg, too. Well done!

Oh you’re not talking me into that! But I promise if I were retired I’d make them for everyone.

I tried that but my wife tuckered out after only a few miles. Your tractor looks like a more recent model though.

If you enlarge your weep holes, then you'll need larger pipe cleaners.

I think when most people talk about going to Mexico, they're talking about Baja, which is pretty safe and you don't have to travel through any unsafe areas to get there, except maybe Tijuana during spring break.

It's neat stuff, if you could find something that lasts and doesn't cost an arm and a leg, and I'm sure it would make the water flow...

I can see how that could be the case. The weeps are certainly small enough for water to bridge if it can’t adhere to the surface. I guess the way to test is to fully strip the wax from one window and see what the effect is. You’d probably have to take the window apart again and clean inside the weeps since its about impossible to keep from getting wax in there. If the weeps do drain better afterwards, then it might be good advice to cover the weeps with some masking tape before waxing. I’d say that some anti fog spray might increase the weeping action, but I don’t think that stuff lasts long - I think it’s mostly soap. They do make some permanent hydrophilic coatings for the medical world, which I once wanted to try on my windshield until I found out it cost $50 an ounce.

It's great to hear about success with portable panels. Ours has been a waste so far since we've yet to take it out with us - entirely due to the size/weight and nowhere decent to store it.

Yes, we started off with the king bed table in a twin bed. That was a hare brained idea of mine that Jason tried to talk me out of. It worked O.K., but I should have listened because the table is heavy and bulky and I could never find a place to store it when it wasn't set up. So in practice it was awkward and it didn't make it past the first trip.

On the cost/benefit of LFP batteries, it can certainly be easier to justify on the front end than retrofitting later, particularly if you believe that the increased capacity will save you the cost of a generator. In our case, we went with four 100Ah Battleborn batteries, at what I think was a pretty good deal at $3,100. That's a big price tag - but, had we not gotten the LFPs, then we would have gotten the AGM upgrade, which was $1,075 at the time; the generator connection at the front of the trailer, $469; a Honda generator, $999; and some accessories for the generator like a cover and some other things, which I had priced at $110.59. All that together was $2,653.59. So on the whole, going with LFPs cost us $446.41. But then we included the batteries on our taxes along with the solar for a 30% energy tax credit on our "2nd home" and so in the end came out about even. And to date, we've only had one instance where we could have used a generator, which was a week in November in the Smokies where we couldn't find a campsite in the sun. But even then we could have made it had we been smarter with our electrical usage. We also have a 12v marine fridge which is an added drain that most people won't have. I'd suggest that if you up your battery capacity, you should probably consider some extra solar to help charge it. A suitcase unit is great provided you have room in the truck to store it (bigger ones are pretty big and heavy), or you might be able to talk Oliver into a 3rd panel on the roof. That used to be an 'off menu' option, but as time goes on, those options keep disappearing.

Boy that’s a good question. I had dinner with some of my wife’s family in STL this past weekend and they were telling me how they were going to rent an RV to try out before they bought. It’s a great idea and I’d strongly encourage it but I don’t know of anyone who rents out their Ollie. The problem of course is that we all like them too much - it would be like handing over your child to a stranger. Of course there are plenty of owners who would love to show their trailers, but that’s not really the same. What I can say, as a long time tent camper, is that traveling with an Ollie is far, far less trouble. To give some perspective, my wife and I had a conversation the other night about making sure we do some tent camping away from the trailer at some point on our next trip just because we’re worried that camping has become too easy for us. By we, I mean me of course. My wife seems to be O.K. with the whole comfort thing for some reason.

I have nothing but good things to say about the 3.5 Ford but I have to agree with Topgun. None of these trucks are bad and I think it really comes down to personal preference.

Here's a timely article from National Parks Traveller - Got Those Recreation.gov Blues Apparently the Rec.gov service switched hands to a new contractor in October, and because of contract issues, they had to rebuild the site from scratch. Lots of things like photos and maps haven't been added back yet - and the new site is supposed to have 'real time' reservation status, which seems to be glitchy. For what it's worth, the new firm behind the site is Booz Allen, of Edward Snowden fame.

I see now where you mentioned that before - thanks for clarifying. Please let us know when you find the problem and what it was.

I think Goof Off is mostly acetone, at least it smells like it. I usually use the milder Goo Gone (butane?) since it's much less likely to dissolve plastics.. But for use on fiberglass, I'm sure either is fine. I've heard mixed messages as to whether rubbing alcohol leaves a residue. I think 100% iso does not, but some of the diluted ones seem to, so perhaps some brands don't use pure water to dilute it. Anyway, because of that, I was told not to use rubbing alcohol to clean beforehand when I was doing our decals. I'd be careful with all of the above around caulk joints. This is going to be one of my new favorite things. I feel dumb for not knowing these existed.