carnivore

a by-product of propane per the tec that helped me out.

I have been chasing down the solution to a Norcold refrigeration problem for 18 months. My fridge worked well on AC, so so on DC and inadequately on propane. The best it would do on gas was 7-10 degrees in the freezer and only 50 in the fridg section. We do a lot of boondocking and really wanted to keep the gas option. Here are the various steps I took one at a time without success: Pulled the fridge and cleaned the burner tube, changed the thermistor (3 times), changed the main board, checked the gas pressure, changed the thermostat and added a dual extra fan to the top, changed the DC board (one to the right of the main board), changed the eyebrow board, added venting, added insulation. All of these steps were recommended by techs who I paid. The last tech I hired told me that I needed to replace the cooling unit since I was wanting to keep the existing model. Unfortunately, Norcold no longer makes the N412.3 model and replacement cooling units are out of stock. I was advised to find a cooling unit from a 3rd party, order it and then pay the tech to install it. The first cooling unit manufacturer that I contacted did not make units for this smaller fridge model and recommended talking to a guy in Olive Branch MS who rebuilds cooling unit. When I spoke with this gentleman in MS on the phone, he was far more than helpful and told me that my cooling unit was not the problem. He told me to remove my burner and soak the orifice in a high percentage alcohol for a few hours, then blow it out with a compressor and reinstall. Now mind you that my flame looked fine and didn’t seem to be a problem to me or to the two professionals that previously looked at it. 80 year old Mr. David Force, owner of Cooling Unit Warehouse explained that there was a paraffin buildup in my orifice and that although my flame’s appearance didn’t visibly change after cleaning it, the temperature of the flame had been slightly below the necessary temperature. He said that a 10-degree flame difference can change everything. Bottom line, I followed David’s advice, the fridge has been working like a champ for 50 hours on propane so far. I wish I had known this before I spent 18 months and 7-800 dollars on un-needed parts. Nevertheless I am thankful that it works like it is supposed to so that we can head out next week for a month long trip. I'm posting this in hopes that someone can avoid a refrigerator adventure.

I had this problem. I solved it by spraying the wife’s hair spray on both sides of the rubber piece then worked it back into position using a large C clamp. The hair spray dries and changes from a lubricant to a slight adhesive.

Thanks Mike. You are appreciated.

I'm fishing for some ideas on a direction to go. Some scoundrel grabbed the voyager rear view camera monitor out of our truck. I need to decide if I should: A) replace the monitor with like and kind, B) replace the rear camera that will also come with a new monitor, or C) go without. First, does anyone have a Voyager monitor that they want to part with? Do any of you have any recommendations for a better camera and monitor than what came with our 2019 Oliver?

I replaced a leaking LP pigtail. The tank connector on the original was light green while the replacement I found while on the road happened to be a dark green. Later while at a campground making my repairs, a fellow camper said that he once replaced a leaking light green tank connector with one that was dark green and then began to have various propane flow problems. He said that he switched his dark green out with a light green fitting and solved his problems. He didn’t provide any details of his problems. I did not know that there were color codes on LP tank connectors. Evidently different colors have different internal spring tensions for managing different flow rates. According to Etrailer the light green connectors are rated for 200,000 Btu per hour. The black are rated for 70,000-100,000 Btu per hour. The dark green are rated for 450,000-500,000 Btu per hour. The Red connector is the strongest spring and is often used for high pressure adapters and T-fittings. The question that I can’t seem to find a specific answer to is: Do the higher btu or flow rated dark green fittings work fine in our application. In other words, even though the dark green are rated for higher flow rates than I will ever need in my camper, do they perform just as well when they are used for lower flow rates as those of the light green ratings?

Ron, I don't think it is a propane flow problem. The burner lights immediately when the control board demands. I don't have a manometer or whatever the necessary tool is to check propane pressure, however when the fridge burner is burning, I have lit both stovetop burners as well as turned the water heater to propane and fridge burner tube and stove burners stayed blue with no sign of fuel starvation. This problem has me baffled so far.

I’m beating my head against the wall on this one and would love some input. Our 2019 E2 has a 3 -way Norcold model N412.3 FUL fridge Sn# NR00iy5 It seems to work perfectly fine on both AC and DC but has a problem when running on propane. The temperature won't get any colder than 50-55 and the freezer and only goes to between 25-35. The flame seems to always ignite just fine and looks blue and normal, so I don’t suspect a propane or solenoid or gas flow problem. Steps taken so far: 1-The burner tube with gas jet looked fine with no carbon buildup but I changed it out for a new one anyway. Flame still looks blue and good. 2-Replaced the thermistor with a new one and put it on the same fin as the original which is center of #5 from the right. Problem NOT solved so I 3-changed out the circuit 628661 board. 4- Ran a 12 gage swab down the burner tube but it as well as the helix diffuser was already clean with zero carbon buildup. Problem still unresolved I did not change the smaller approx 2”x4” green board that sets next to the main board. I believe this one is called the DC control board. This could be next step but like I mentioned, it works fine on AC & DC. Anyone have any suggestions for my next course of action?

I'll chime in here on the Alcans. I have 7K on mine so far without a problem. I haven't noticed any difference in the way the trailer handles or tows.

I spent all day yesterday installing Alcon leaf springs, Alcon U-bolts and new Monroe shocks on our trailer. I did the work myself and have to say that I recommend tackling it yourself if you have even average mechanical abilities and a torque wrench. I haven't had time to give it a test tow yet but am optimistic that the tow to the rally will be trouble free.

Try cycling cycling each valve one at a time while the faucet is open and the pump is on. This can burp the system.

I placed an Alcan order this morning with Luo for springs, 9/16" u-bolts and nuts.

I am ordering parts to do some Maintenace on my LE2 suspension. Mine was manufactured in 2019, came standard with the EZ-Flex and currently has a little over 62k on it. I am hoping to get answers to a couple quick questions: 1: Does the center pin of the EZ-Flex have a serviceable/replaceable bushing and if so, is it the same size and type as the bushings on the spring ends? 2: Likewise, do the two outside holes on the EZ-Flex have replaceable Bronz bushings like the spring ends? Thanks in advance. .sj #512

I followed AndrewK’s plan and couldn’t be happier with the results.

Mike, I am a recent AndrewK graduate that self installed solar panels and lithium batteries on my 2019 LE2. Like Andrew, I too am willing to offer any help. Pm me your contact info if I can help.