Steph and Dud B

Very cool monocoque fiberglass RV made in Bosnia. Bigger than an LE2 with a dry bath. Built by a yacht company.

We just returned from 12 days RVing in Alaska, but not in our Oliver. It's a long way from CT to AK and with doctor appointments, etc. it really isn't possible for us to be away from home that long, so we flew out and rented a Class C motorhome. What a great decision! We had a blast and really liked the little Minnie Winnie RV. It was the perfect couples camper, only 24.5 feet long (just like our LE2) with a single slide and a very functional layout. And in great shape, too, being a 2025 model year. Just as easy to drive/park as our dually truck. We did Anchorage, the Kenai Peninsula, Talkeetna, and 3 nights in Denali. If you've never seen AK we'd recommend putting it on your bucket list for sure. FYI, the RV rental agency we used was Great Alaskan Holidays - www.greatalaskanholidays.com. Highly recommend them if you choose the fly/rent route.

Lots of people, including us, have had issues with Dexter self-adjusting brakes. You were wise to return to standard manual-adjust assemblies.

We just worked on completing the last 3 of our lower 48 states with a trip to the South East Central US. Stopped at some cool Harvest Hosts along the way and got a nice riverfront site at Maumelle Park in Little Rock. (Only one lower 48 left, our neighbor, RI.)

I'd look at the Bigfoot (25RQ) and the InTechs.

Reopening an old thread here. Our 3 year old RVLock just failed. Closed the door and suddenly no power to the lock. Replaced the batteries, no change. Old batteries back in, closed the door, now it just sat there quietly chirping pitifully, like a dying chick. Guess I'll see how good that lifetime warranty is...

As far as I know, only the Anderson can be used on an Oliver. Not sure if this is because of dimensions or the aluminum frame. If you have a 2500 or 3500 truck you might not need weight distribution at all.

Which lights are you referring to? Interior or exterior?

Good point, Bill. No error codes on the EMS, so that's a good sign.

We keep our trailer in a detached garage we built about 18 months ago. Prepping for summer, I had the Ollie plugged into a 20A outlet in the garage (with the Xantrex dialed down so it didn't overload the circuit). Last night I looked outside and the garage was dark, even though I had left a few lights on. I went over to investigate, smelled hot electronics and found a slew of weird electrical problems inside. Lights were flashing or going dim, something was humming, and the garage door motors were making bad noises. Realizing there was a major problem, I killed the master breakers in the garage sub panel and then the breakers covering the feed from the house distribution panel. Based on my smart home logs, the incident may have been going on for 2 hours before I noticed it. The electricians who originally wired the garage were here this morning. They discovered that the neutral line going to the garage was not clamped to its bus bar in the house. It was just sitting loose in the hole. This is called a loose or floating neutral and it can cause severe damage to electrical devices and potentially shocks or a building fire. Once that was fixed we started assessing the damage. Both garage door openers were damaged, as were 2 smart light fixtures and a Makita battery charger. I'm thinking, "the Oliver!" During the event I had noticed that there was no 120VAC inside the Oliver, even though it was connected to a live outlet. As far as I can tell now, the Oliver sustained no damage. All the 120VAC and 12VDC devices appear to be working as designed. It seems the EMS did what it was designed to do and isolated our trailer from the faulty shoreline power throughout the incident. We'll know for sure as soon as we get out camping. Amazingly, the wiring had been that way for over a year with no symptoms at all until last night. The electricians have accepted responsibility and are paying for all replacements and repairs to damaged equipment.

We have 2022 hull #1150 with the Platinum package, too. At pickup I was told the water heater was not connected to the inverter but, to be honest, I've never tried it. You could use the Lithionics app to find out. Running on inverter with cold water in the tank and the WH external switch off, watch the power draw in the Lithionics app when you turn the water heater on. If it jumps up dramatically, the WH has kicked on. If nothing happens, it's not connected to the inverter.

Better than Ford. The Ford Sync system in my 2023 is buggy, too. Has a bad habit of the touchscreen freezing up.

We've been using Meguiar's Marine/RV Gel Wash on the Oliver. If you prefer a wash and wax product, I've had good luck with Meguiar's Ultimate Wash and Wax on cars and trucks.

That rotary switch disconnects the solar panels but not the batteries. If you have Lithionics batteries, each one should have a power switch on top. As long as it's above freezing you can turn them off. (Otherwise, there are specific instructions for cold winter storage.) Just make sure the inverter is off (silver button off) before turning the batteries off or back on later. They shouldn't be powered up under a large load.

Could you provide more info? What type of batteries do you have? Are you talking about the red rotary switch in the cabinet over the street side bed? (That's the solar disconnect.) Is it stored indoors or outdoors?

That's a good ballpark for roughly room temperature. The volume of liquid propane changes based on ambient temperature. Since the bulk storage tanks are outside, it can vary by a fair amount. The most accurate way to measure it is by weight. 6.8 gallons at 17 degrees F would be a lot more propane than 6.8 gallons at 85 degrees. https://www.propane101.com/propanevolumecorrection.htm

One of my tanks was overfilled by someone relying on the OPD to shut off the flow. I was watching the gallons readout and made her stop and call a supervisor. At my insistence he weighed it and vented a fair amount to bring it down to 55#. You can't trust the OPDs.

I don't think the dealers are as well versed in Oliver maintenance as the factory. Given the option, I'd always choose factory service.

The small amount of antifreeze from the fresh water tank and the outside shower goes on the ground outside the garage. The rest ends up in the black and grey tanks and we dump it at the first campground with hookups. Hadn't really thought about collecting it for recycling.

Here ya' go! https://pebblelife.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAwaG9BhAREiwAdhv6Y1nfr4vhcwlGralq6abgET5Pw27r1LfENSEXaE_3xUXrZYcRA21KLhoChccQAvD_BwE

I renamed my batteries in the app, FRONT and REAR. You could do OUTER, CENTER, INNER, etc. Makes it easy to identify them.

This is good news! Did you find the culprit that caused the batteries to run down so fast? Now that you have the Lithionics app working you can see how many amps are being drawn while in storage.

Bought something like this when we had a fifth wheel, to help me reach into the bed while hooking up: Heavy Duty Tire Step https://a.co/d/5vK6ftR.

@Tideline77 it is best practice to set the Xantrex breaker setting to the max current your source outlet can provide. (Actually a little less. Note that Oliver's default setting for a 30A campground outlet is only 25. It's not great to run electrical components at full load.) This is to prevent your trailer from over-drawing power and tripping the breaker on your power source (or worse). Your generator may have a 30A outlet but a 2200W generator can't actually provide the full 30A, at least not continuously (2200W / 120V = 18 Amps). You can go to the max available output of the generator (probably 18A in your case, check you manual) as long as the trailer is the only thing plugged into the generator. One advantage of setting the Xantrex to lower Amps (say 10A) would be that the generator wouldn't be screaming at max RPM the whole time. However charge time would go up. If plugged into a household outlet, I go at least 5A below the circuit breaker for that outlet. When in storage and I need to charge, our trailer is plugged into a 20A household outlet. However, that same circuit might also be used to run power tools on different outlets, so I actually set my Xantrex breaker setting down to 5A. This causes the trailer to charge more slowly, but allows me to use other outlets in the garage at the same time without tripping the breaker. Also, if you're using a regular extension cord to connect to a household outlet, you should lower the Xantrex setting to no more then the cord is rated to handle. If you attach your trailer to a 20A outlet, set your Xantrex to 20A, but then use an extension cord rated for only 15A, you run a risk of melting that extension cord and starting a fire. In summary, never set the Xantrex higher then the breaker on the supplying outlet and consider going even lower if you don't need absolute max charging speed.

Good luck. Let us know how you make out.