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CRM

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CRM last won the day on October 19 2025

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My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple
  • Location
    Tampa

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    45
  • Year
    2010
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan

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  1. New Statement from BB.
  2. For anyone interested, the price has finally come down some on these units and they're now selling for $597 on Amazon. IMO, not a bad price considering you're getting a Power Watchdog and an Autoformer together in one unit. I think it might finally be time to upgrade and pass my old stand alone Autoformer down to my brother in law. Watchdog Power Center
  3. Putting plastic between the conductors does it for me. That's not a safety feature, it's a bad design.
  4. You couldn't pay me enough to ever put these in my Ollie.
  5. A dead short to ground should leave you with no brakes and a blown fuse, though if only one wheel is getting power on the blue wire it's possible it could be locking only that wheel up. Also, if that one problem wheel has a short in the electromagnet lowering it's resistance it's possible that most or all of the current is going to that one wheel only too. Brake controllers also all send a "phantom voltage" on the blue wire so they know when a trailer is attached, though I don't know if the current is enough to cause a problem if there's a problem with one of the electromagnets. Probably a little different with each model.
  6. No way was that caused by a ply failure. You can tell by the wear pattern and the melted rubber buildup on one side that it was caused by a lockup.
  7. Yep, and since nothing was found during inspection I'd be changing out all the brake components, at least on that wheel.
  8. Can't hurt as long as you don't restrict airflow.
  9. We got down into the 30's this morning so I decided to run a quick test of the heat pump function on the Turbro. After using it down into the 20's while camping over New Year's I already knew it performed well but wanted to put some stats to it. Starting cabin temp was 37.2 when the heat was first turned on. The unit takes about 3 min to actually start producing heat, which most likely to get the evaporator up to operating temp and prevent circulating cold air. Once the heating started, the outlet temps at the duct immediately went to up 114 and peaked at 118 which was much higher than I expected... Took a little over 15 min to get the cabin 10 degrees warmer but from there the temperature warmed quickly and got to setpoint of 67 in a total of 38 min. I left the setpoint alone for 15 min to see if there would be any fluctuations in temps from cycling, but it held steady the whole time. After this I bumped the thermostat up to max and within 8 min the cabin temp was 75 degrees. Ended testing there since we'll never have the heat set that high, though it's nice to know it can get there and probably even higher. It may have some issues, but heating performance isn't one of them!
  10. On second review, it's not a straight rebadge. Looks like they're using the same outside unit mechanicals as the Turbro, which is it's best feature, and redesigned the airbox and electronics, which are it's worst features... and you can either have a wall thermostat or manual controls. https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/furrion_specsheets/ccd-0006147.pdf https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/furrion documentation/air conditioning/aftermarket/ccd-0009380-en.pdf Best part for us Turbro owners is that the internal airbox parts as well as electronic controls are sold separately and will most likely be able to be used with the turbo.
  11. And it also looks like Furrion can't help but fib on Btu's. Turbro advertises 13.5k (tests at 12.5k) and they've bumped the rating up on it to 15K. The heat pump function puts out 17k so maybe they're taking using the average Btu's between heat and cool? 😂
  12. Looks like it's just a rebadged Turbro / Pioneer.
  13. I agree with most of this, though I think the efficiency and low BTU's provided in the low setting is actually a needed feature not found in any other unit I'm aware of. At cooler temps with high humidity this unit could act more like a dehumidifier than an AC unit and keep the cabin comfortable without having to drop the temps lower than desired to keep humidity in check. The Turbro invertor unit that I have can only ramp down to 7500 Btu's, which is lower than any unit other than the Chill Cube that I'm aware of, and in my experience this is not low enough to control humidity in low temp situations without dropping cabin temps into the low 60's or even high 50's. I also think having a thermistor in the remote is a HUGE feature. When set to "follow me" the remote will sample the temps at the remote itself every 3 minutes and override the internal thermistor. Think about all of us who have gone down the mod route to overcome this issue and void our warrantees. I do worry about the low Btu's tested by Morton though... My last AC unit was in this same Btu range and performed well in the high 90's with high humidity but it could take a couple of hours to get there and I'm not so sure the Chill Cube will be acceptable in higher temps in direct sun with low humidity. Time will tell and I hope it can handle it. Maybe his Btu testing was off? I still think it's the best AC option at the moment for those not requiring a heat pump function, and for those not wanting to mod their units.
  14. Just took a peak at the manual and it looks like it has one thermistor in the unit itself, and one inside the remote too. You can activate the one in the remote by using the "Follow Me" function. This is an awesome feature to have!
  15. I *think* the thermistor is in the remote itself, just like how many mini-splits do it. And they don't need an internal drain since they use the condensate to help cool the condenser coil through evaporative cooling to increase efficiency.
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