Boudicca908

I didn’t do the black tank flush port — should I add some to it, even though I have a composting toilet?

Looking larger.... This is why I chose the frosted -- the space feels larger and cleaner. It's less contrast, and I preferred that. I have never really used the lights inside the cabinets, so that isn't an issue for me. And to combat any potential rubbing on the backside of the frosted doors, I try to make sure that there is something soft between the contents and the door face. Yes, you can see the colors of things -- but it's translucent, not transparent. I like the frosted.

Thank you for your reply — I have about 30 minutes before sunset… I’m going to start pumping antifreeze. Seems to me, with the winterization valve configuration, the antifreeze is only going to lines and faucets, not to the fresh water tank (or other tanks.) But if anyone disagrees, I hope they will let me know. (I’m still wearing training wheels, apparently!)

So.... I'm working on winterizing, because I'd rather do it now, while I still have access to power water wifi etc, rather than waiting until later. I leave in the morning (note: likely no cell / wifi or computer access after I leave early tomorrow). I'm anticipating low 30s, but I know the weather can turn around fast out here. I'll be boon docking until early to mid-October, in WY, UT, CO Rockies. And now I'm BACK to this issue of not being able to get the Fresh Water Tank to drain below "19%" on the SeeLevel monitor. I've lifted the trailer front (some more came out), moved side to side with stabilizers (some more came out) but the SeeLevel still reads 19%. That 19 seems to be a magic number with the SeeLevel. (haha) I am NOT brave enough to blow in that hole, @dewdev but am wondering if I can find something to use to dislodge if there is blockage which there doesn't seem to be, with the dripping that came along earlier. I've had it open all day. I know that OTT staff do NOT recommend using blown air to dry out the water lines. QUESTION: I have been assuming that I MUST drain the tank all the way in order to Winterize. IS THAT CORRECT? I've watched Jason's great winterization video (and the valve configuration video), read the articles on the process, and watched the Truma video. I've already taken care of my Truma AquaGo Winterization (drained, turned off, filter removed and stowed). All I have left to do is: 1. Finish Draining the Fresh Water Tank. 2. Add the AntiFreeze to everything. Can I go ahead and add the Antifreeze and just drive with the Drain Valve open under the curbside and see if the SeeLevel monitor registers lower level when I arrive tomorrow evening at my first destination?

I did not remove the wheels, and I only stuck my head under as far as necessary to get a look — watching Jason’s video gives you great views of the central zerks. The other tool that is VERY handy is a small mirror on a swivel stick — I bought one at the Tractor Supply in the sale bin for $3. I used it to check the new grease after pumping. I did the central ones last, and by that time I had a good sense for what it felt like for the gun tip to be engaged with the zerk — so I did it blindly.

I used painters tape with a note to remind me that the Truma WH is in bypass mode — and another that signals the open valve in bathroom (taped over my rear camera power toggle, so I don’t forget to close it prior to travel.) Thank you for the diagram — it’s helpful!

Oh Good Grief! Are all 4 of my shackles flipped?! How do I fix when all 4 are like this? And if this is true -- could it be caused by using the Anderson levelers (first on one side and then on the other)? photos attached. EDIT: I have watched two different videos and now I believe that my shackles are all okay. But it sure is confusing without a decent photograph to know which way they are supposed to be sitting. I'll try to check in again tonight after my chores are done.

My hope is that OTT can utilize the experience of existing Oliver owners to narrow down their selection -- if they choose to go this route. And I will say that it probably would have benefitted me to have an Oliver-allied service experience while I'm so far from OTT Mothership and from my home. Also (my last comment as well) -- not everyone has room for the tools to do all the maintenance. Nor the place. I live in a TINY condo, without a garage and very minimal storage space. (Makes it easy to live in my Oliver for months, because I'm used to the small spaces). So I hope to have my maintenance mostly done by Oliver, unless it's something that requires minimal tools (like the Zerk greasing -- easy peasy and minimal tools, plus needs to be done often when you are on the road for a long time). Thanks to all the great folks at Oliver, including moderators, who help us stay informed and better equipped.

Care to share the name and location? OTT is about 1,000 mile for me. I'd love to know another service center that is familiar with the Oliver!

I'll report back on the loose zerk after the second batch is done. I think I can tighten it down (it responded to hand tightening but I want to put a tool on it for a bit more comfort). I don't have tap and die on hand. It would likely mean a hiccup in the current plan to leave here on Monday (holiday). UPDATE IS ABOVE IN MY PREVIOUS LONGER POST.

I'm okay (I'm on the road) and my home is okay too -- reports from home base in Lee County FL are of minimal flooding, nothing compared to last year. My brother reported that the wind was not bad either.

Today is my Zerk Greasing Day! I'm taking a lunch break after finishing half (the easy half) -- 1.5 hr so far, but that includes reading instructions on the grease gun... Thought I'd read through this thread again and post some comments and questions. Be aware that the video at top of this thread states "14 total" but Oliver YouTube video shows "16 total" for the Elite 2, because there are actually 2 fittings in the middle top on each side. I'm inserting a screenshot from Jason's video here with the diagram (Thank you Jason! These videos are so helpful): photo attached In the SOB video at top of thread, the guy is stopping just as the grease begins to come out of the fitting. Sometimes it's only coming out on one side. QUESTION 1: Is that enough? I thought (from watching Jason's video) that the idea was to see clean grease come out on both ends of each fitting -- or is that overkill? photo attached I'm probably wasting grease, but wasn't sure about this. I do have one (so far) that resists accepting grease. I'm going to try to take some weight off that side as suggested in the thread, and hopefully that will resolve. QUESTION 2: When I went through the process of cleaning all the zerks before beginning, I found one of them LOOSE this morning. It could be turned easily in hand. None of the others seem loose. When I look at the photo, it looks like it's been gripped with something (not the right tool) -- do I need to try to replace this fitting? Or is it okay just to tighten it down? photo attached QUESTION 3: Also while cleaning and sticking my head under there, I noticed that these .... rubber fittings .... (not sure what to call them) look really DRIED OUT. What are they called, and should I be worried about them? I do have between 3,000 and 4,000 miles before I reach OTT for a service appointment. photo attached Many thanks to all the great forum participants helping out here! EDIT : UPDATE For the 2 center top fittings, I switched to the LockNLube 90 degree Adapter -- that helped for 3 of them but the 4th was easier with the original hose coupler. QUESTION 4: (Related to Question 1 above) In Jason's video it shows quite a bit of grease coming out those central fittings; is that necessary? I had some but not nearly as much coming out. Do I need to add more? see screenshot of Jason's video here: And finally, I took weight off the streetside and that cured my one resistant fitting, and it took grease. The loose fitting was tightened by hand and it also took grease and seems fine. Assuming I'm okay on the amount of grease that I applied (questions 1 & 4 above) I'm done. My total job time was around 4 hours including cleaning off the dirty fittings, re-watching Jason's video, and reading the manual on using the grease gun. Well worth the time and tools. Thanks to everyone.

My only experience has been horrid. Sadly, I will make sure to show the OTT home team some of the damage from the only service center I dealt with.

While I'm waiting for my Mystic Grease and tools to arrive for the Zerk maintenance, I forged ahead with the full beauty treatment on my Oliver, using the products that I believe were recommended by @SeaDawg earlier in this thread: Washing: used a Boat Wash that won't strip the existing finish (hand washing with a light spray hose, no pressure washing) Drying: used my favorite tool, "The Absorber" towel (I have one for the outside and one for Oliver's shower walls that I use to dry them down) First Wax: Collinite No. 870 Marine (the liquid all-in-one wash and wax) -- used about a half of one bottle. Second Wax: Collinite No. 885 Heavy Duty FleetWax (the paste in a can) -- used a bit more than half the can. I washed, dried down and did the first coat of wax on day one. Took a day off. Did the second coat of wax on day three. It took me about 6 hours on each of those days, but well worth the time. It's a thing of beauty. My neighbor complained about being blinded. Hahaha

I'll be wishing the best for you down there. I'm in touch with my brother who is staying at my place this summer. Hopefully it won't impact anyone as much as last year's Ian the Terrible.

@John Welte there is a great deal of information just above; I tacked on questions to a previous thread, to get more specific information on the grease type and tools and I've ordered mine. I appreciate the gentle warning on time required to 'do the job' @topgun2 . I started cleaning them yesterday.

his favorite tackle

I paid a service center to grease my Zerks (and do other maintenance) early this year, in preparation for my current trip, but I'm confident that I can accomplish this task myself and I'll be able to do it in a timely fashion -- in fact, I bet it will take less of my time than driving to a random service center (and waiting).

Thank you all — order will be placed today. I’m looking forward to doing this.

I took note of @John E Davies mention that it's not good to 'mix products' so I thought I should try to use whatever OTT has started with -- that's a question I guess. I'm not equipped to take things apart here, so would like to just add the right grease to existing fittings. Did you push all the old grease out when you added this Marine Grease?

ZERK GREASE JOB: Can anyone tell me : what grease I need to purchase, and how many tubes to expect to use (I would guess only one) to grease all 16 zerks? I want to order everything I need for the job today, and do this myself. I read through my notes from Jason's maintenance presentation during the 2022 Rally, but I don't have a grease type noted. I did find a mention in the Instruction Manual (see item number 4 below - and THANKS to @rideandfly for the link to the installation instructions) -- even with that, the search results on Amazon didn't make me feel confident in selecting one; the prices vary quite a bit, several results refer to "white lithium grease" and clearly everyone's photos show a PINK grease. I hope to order everything today, if possible. I will need to do this twice before I land back at OTT headquarters. Thanks to all our forum members for the great information. So far I have a cart with the following: 1) Grease Tek Grease Gun: https://www.amazon.com/GreaseTek-Premium-Pistol-Grease-Extension/dp/B019P1MRKU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2DQ0B2P6DLCAK&keywords=zerk+grease+gun&qid=1692793315&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=automotive&sprefix=zerk+gre%2Cautomotive%2C144&sr=1-2 (And... is that the "short tip" that Jason mentions in his excellent video on YouTube? I took a screenshot and his looks really short, making it easier to squeeze in the space.) 2) LockNLube 90 degree tip in case it's difficult to reach: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Degree-Grease-Coupler-Adapter/dp/B07STDDN1S/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1PP47DJBKR4DU&dchild=1&keywords=locknlube+90+degree+grease+coupler+adapter&qid=1620267138&sprefix=locknlube+90%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-5 3) LockNLube Caps to add to the Zerks to keep clean: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Grease-Fitting-Count-Yellow/dp/B0779K66DW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=33IEWTU1ED35D&keywords=zerk%2Bgrease%2Bcaps&qid=1692795061&s=automotive&sprefix=zerk%2Bgrease%2Bcaps%2Cautomotive%2C159&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 4) Search results for "Lithium complex grease, NLGI No. 2 such as Mobil Oil Company Mobilgrease HP or equivalent" from Dexter Instruction Manual: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Lithium+complex+grease%2C+NLGI+No.+2+such+as+Mobil+Oil+Company+Mobilgrease+HP+or+equivalent&i=automotive&crid=KK85VUSHGKDP&sprefix=lithium+complex+grease%2C+nlgi+no.+2+such+as+mobil+oil+company+mobilgrease+hp+or+equivalent%2Cautomotive%2C269&ref=nb_sb_noss

@John Dorrer -- Is that usually accomplished by taking some weight with the stabilizing jacks?

@SeaDawg -- The first thing I see at the top is the "video is private" and it doesn't have a title below it or any identifying information; then I can see a yellow text box and blue text boxes and photos below that (even above the one you mentioned). It's possible, but hard to tell -- I thought maybe there was another video at the beginning. I did watch the one you referenced, and I had accessed it via Oliver Travel Trailers YouTube channel (Thank you to the Service Team for posting those).

Hello to the Moderators -- I am having difficulty accessing this video -- it has a message "This video is private" -- can others access it? Is this posted somewhere else that is available? https://support.olivertraveltrailers.com/portal/en/kb/articles/dexter-ez-flex-overview-maintenance

You might decide later that this info is really handy. I prize my Oliver manuals. I've read them and am still reading and digesting and like @SeaDawg says, camping provides the best opportunity for learning. Enjoy!